Going through more gas then I use to with rich exhaust smell

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Went wheeling this weekend and noticed a strong gas smell under the hood after running. Mine has done that a lot. Matt farr commented that his has the same smell

Did some searching here and I have the following observations

I have always filled to the brim, which I am now learning is bad and overtaxes the Charcoal canister

I have high pressure when I remove the cap to fill, even sputtering at times

Gas in Kansas likely had a higher ethanol blend

Gas cap is a 18 months old as I replaced it when I failed emissions last time

I bet my charcoal canister is clogged and when I overfilled it, and hauled ass with a high ethanol content, some fuel boiled off. When I filled up near Colorado, gas was sputtering out of the tube when I took the cap off

Mud is a great resource of searchable info.

Thinking I need to not overfill and likely will need to replace the Charcoal canister.

Just a thought
 
Went wheeling this weekend and noticed a strong gas smell under the hood after running. Mine has done that a lot. Matt farr commented that his has the same smell

Did some searching here and I have the following observations

I have always filled to the brim, which I am now learning is bad and overtaxes the Charcoal canister

I have high pressure when I remove the cap to fill, even sputtering at times

Gas in Kansas likely had a higher ethanol blend

Gas cap is a 18 months old as I replaced it when I failed emissions last time

I bet my charcoal canister is clogged and when I overfilled it, and hauled ass with a high ethanol content, some fuel boiled off. When I filled up near Colorado, gas was sputtering out of the tube when I took the cap off

Mud is a great resource of searchable info.

Thinking I need to not overfill and likely will need to replace the Charcoal canister.

Just a thought

Ken,
I did mine last night. Of course that's after the :princess: went to fill it up and got sprayed due to the clogged canister and hot day.:lol: She didn't think it was so funny. It sounds like those of us with SCs and multiple tanks are more susceptible to this as well. Just an observation.
:cheers:
Nick
 
Ken,
I did mine last night. Of course that's after the :princess: went to fill it up and got sprayed due to the clogged canister and hot day.:lol: She didn't think it was so funny. It sounds like those of us with SCs and multiple tanks are more susceptible to this as well. Just an observation.
:cheers:
Nick

Did you buy a new one? I am looking to get a used one
 
if there is a fueling issue and no check engine light than it's an O2 sensor/wiring problem. The ECU works on the premise that the O2 feed back circuit is always working at 100%. If there is a problem where there is some error in the readings it simply tries to adjust the fuel to get what it wants.

In your case, if the engine was running at the proper AFR% but the O2 sensor showed a 10% lean condition the ECU would richen the mixture by @10%. This would not give you a code as the ECU is happy with that amount of error but would impact your fuel mileage because you are actually running rich.

In these cases I know only one way to be certain that you have the proper AFR% and that is with an off line AFR% reading by either a wide band sensor or a sniff test.

Wait... Are you saying that me having my after-cat O2 sensor zip-tied to the frame is bad?
 
at those speeds you are definitely in open loop so if it was running rich it would not throw a CEL.

Just curious, Why does high speed mean he is in open loop? I though once the vehicle is at operating temp then its always in closed...
 
Just curious, Why does high speed mean he is in open loop? I though once the vehicle is at operating temp then its always in closed...

+1

Why open?
 
Did you buy a new one? I am looking to get a used one

I got a new one thru Dan. I figured after 177,000 it needed a new one for the next 177,000. From the threads lately, I think he's got pallets of these things on hand. List was ~$380:eek:, and cost was ~$250:eek: IIRC. It sounded steep, but after my wife got sprayed with gas she thought it was a deal.

Driving over Independence Pass and back tomorrow to go fishing with a full tank (my long ranger is empty) and bringing my boat. I'll let you know how it goes with the new CC.

FWIW, the old clogged one drove me nuts. After our drive to Durango and back a few weeks ago, the Cruiser stunk up our underground garage for a day and a half with that terrible fuel/alcohol smell...
 
Just curious, Why does high speed mean he is in open loop? I though once the vehicle is at operating temp then its always in closed...

Maybe he meant high RPM? I read somewhere while doing O2 sensor research that an ECU will run the engine richer at higher RPM to avoid misfire.
 
Today was really hot and the smell of gas in the garage was powerful. After I shut the car off, I raised the hood and you could hear noise from inside the charcoal canister. Kind of a pressure noise, almost like it was cooking.

I went and got a used Charcoal Canister from a junk yard for $35. Filled, but did not overfill the tank and we will see how it goes.

I tried to test the replacement, but could not get my compressor down to 1psi like the manual said. At higher PSI I could put air through both canisters. Maybe mine was just saturated, but not blocked.

I ran air through the replacement canister at 40 psi like the manual said to clean it
 
I've been using a CC from a Taco and it's been working out very well. The nipple on top is reverse and one of the nipple is larger than the 80. I need to open up the original CC like FirstToy and replace the stuff inside like he did.
 
I looked at a truck that had an aux tank installed and it immediately started leaking. The installer tried several different hoses to stop the leak. It was a mostly clogged charcoal canister. What I noticed is, I could barely blow air into the inlet of the new canister but not at all in the original. The canisters need to be able to pass fumes at 2 psi which is about what I can manage to blow.

Not real scientific but it works for me.
 
Just curious, Why does high speed mean he is in open loop? I though once the vehicle is at operating temp then its always in closed...

it's not high speed per say. Closed loop happens as a time when a certain mount of air is flowing into the engine. He has a SC and was likely running in a boosted situation at those speeds which would be open loop.

Just a guess but really thing he was.
 
Not so much because it's the front one that determines fuel mixture. The rear on just confirms that the cats are working properly.

Maybe I'm not recalling correctly, but I thought that the rear O2 sensor affected LTFT.
 
Ken - watching this with great interest. I've had the symptoms you are describing too! Did the tests with my compressor to the best of my ability, but like you can't regulate the compressor down as far as the FSM test requires. I've done what you did and cleaned the cannister at 43 psi per the FSM and reinstalled it. Given that you are altitude compared to my sea level, do you think that has anything to do with it? A new cannister is north of $250. Both I and another SoCal mudder have had the symptoms you describe when we've been at altitude - above 6000 ft.
 
Ken - watching this with great interest. I've had the symptoms you are describing too! Did the tests with my compressor to the best of my ability, but like you can't regulate the compressor down as far as the FSM test requires. I've done what you did and cleaned the cannister at 43 psi per the FSM and reinstalled it. Given that you are altitude compared to my sea level, do you think that has anything to do with it? A new cannister is north of $250. Both I and another SoCal mudder have had the symptoms you describe when we've been at altitude - above 6000 ft.

Not sure about the altitude. From reading, seems to happen to SC's trucks more with extra tanks.

I installed a different one I got at a junk yard rather than the original one. Figured it had plenty of time to evaporate sitting there being parted out in the heat. Mo gas smell so far, but hadn't really tested it.

It was about 100 deg here today and after driving 20 miles to the junk yard and back, it was worse then I can remember. Heat certainaly is a contributor

Now I have an extra one to play with. Maybe I'll try what James did if this didn't work
 
Maybe I'm not recalling correctly, but I thought that the rear O2 sensor affected LTFT.

LTFT is an adjustment variable that is used for Long term fueling errors. One error would be a change in gasoline because of a different station. That whole tank will respond differently than the previous one and that difference is calculated and added to that value either plus or minus. There are others such as ambient temp, humidity, system wear, ect. Anything that will influence the amount of fuel needed for more than a few minutes.

The ECU wants to see a certain difference between the exhaust before and after the cat to confirm it's functioning within design parameters. If the sensor is good but detects a problem it's usually a catalytic inefficiency error.
 
I think you need to buy an 80 with a 1HD.... that would fix your milage issue;)

smart ass I know..

interested in the outcome.

good luck
 

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