GM charcoal canister (2 Viewers)

[cims1970fj40]

Hello,
I have a GM charcoal canister along with other components that I bought from Red Line Cruisers and need help on where the hoses connect to. In the attachment you will see where I circled the areas I need help on.
The cruiser is a Nov 73 build and currently have a 77 2f with a 2f manifold, 75 carburetor, and 78 dizzy if that matters or not.
Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks

 

[Grayscale]

So, they want you to do a T-fitting. That will allow for both vacuum advance and purging the tank. The vac source on the carb is on the valve cover side. A pic of the '78 distributor would help to id the barb-fitting.

 

[cims1970fj40]

So, they want you to do a T-fitting. That will allow for both vacuum advance and purging the tank. The vac source on the carb is on the valve cover side. A pic of the '78 distributor would help to id the barb-fitting.

Yeah most likely for the sake of my wife. The cruiser isn’t on the road yet but once I brought it home a few years ago my wife was complaining about smelling gas when I haven’t even started it. So the less gas fumes the better.

 

[cims1970fj40]

I’ll see if I have a picture of the distributor. If not I’ll get one

 

[cims1970fj40]

So currently the vacuum line is going from the dizzy to the base of the barb on the carburetor closest to the valve cover as mentioned.

 

[Mark Jennings]

The purpose of connecting to the Dizzy vacuum line is to OPEN the VSV, the purge line connects to the manifold via the PCV hose to the manifold (just under the carb). When the engine is OFF gas fumes collected in the charcoal, you start the engine, vacuum from the carb opens the VSV allowing fresh air to enter the bottom of the canister, purging the collected fumes into the intake manifold.

Generally, there is also a thermostatic valve associated in these systems, e.g. closes off vacuum to the VSV until engine is at operating temperature.

 

[cims1970fj40]

The purpose of connecting to the Dizzy vacuum line is to OPEN the VSV, the purge line connects to the manifold via the PCV hose to the manifold (just under the carb). When the engine is OFF gas fumes collected in the charcoal, you start the engine, vacuum from the carb opens the VSV allowing fresh air to enter the bottom of the canister, purging the collected fumes into the intake manifold.

Generally, there is also a thermostatic valve associated in these systems, e.g. closes off vacuum to the VSV until engine is at operating temperature.

So 1 attaches to the PSV barb and 3 into the port on the dizzy that’s circled correct? And 2 into the base of the barb on the carb?

 

[Grayscale]

Well, what is circled above is supposed to be where the fuel fumes go back into the engine. It is manifold vacuum.

 

[cims1970fj40]

So how should I run the hoses? Sorry I’m really clueless on this.

 

[Grayscale]

1. Line to brass barb on base of carburetor. On the valve-cover-side of the carburetor.
2. Connect to the barb on the intake manifold (circled)
3. Connect to the distributor (circled)

 

[cims1970fj40]

1. Line to brass barb on base of carburetor. On the valve-cover-side of the carburetor.
2. Connect to the barb on the intake manifold (circled)
3. Connect to the distributor (circled)

Thanks for the replies

 

[shipmag]

The purpose of connecting to the Dizzy vacuum line is to OPEN the VSV, the purge line connects to the manifold via the PCV hose to the manifold (just under the carb). When the engine is OFF gas fumes collected in the charcoal, you start the engine, vacuum from the carb opens the VSV allowing fresh air to enter the bottom of the canister, purging the collected fumes into the intake manifold.

Generally, there is also a thermostatic valve associated in these systems, e.g. closes off vacuum to the VSV until engine is at operating temperature.

If your reinstalling the canister separator and check valve do you have to have a VSV also? Is it controlled by electricity or just vacuum?
There are two ports on top of the canister the bottom goes to the top of the separator?

The canister has two ports on top. Do I use one with the svs valve and just plug the second?

I'm sure I let the VSV valve from 84. What does the SVS valve physically look like? Can you post a picture so I can go through all my parts and locate it?

 

[Mark Jennings]

A picture would help.

 

[shipmag]

This is one valve I have.

 

[shipmag]

Here is another valve I have that has three ports not 2

 

[shipmag]

Without having the computer for the 74 2F where do I pick up the signal of a temp sensor so the valve opens when the engine gets warm?

 

[Mark Jennings]

So I actually wouldn’t worry about a temp solenoid, air cooled cars, and early US just simple charcoal boxes, just made sure the engine was running before opening the VSV. I would assume the top nipple is ported to a diaphragm, and should go to the distributer vacuum.
Is there another nipple, maybe 3/8”, on top that is it in the picture?

 

[shipmag]

So I actually wouldn’t worry about a temp solenoid, air cooled cars, and early US just simple charcoal boxes, just made sure the engine was running before opening the VSV. I would assume the top nipple is ported to a diaphragm, and should go to the distributer vacuum.
Is there another nipple, maybe 3/8”, on top that is it in the picture?

The canister has one on the bottom and two on top.. the Redline diagram shown on this tread has a three ported SVS valve. It has been recommended to use a temp switch to block air flow to the carb until the engine temp is warm so it runs better. I found a temp probe at summit that goes between the fins of the radiator has two wires comes on at 180 and off at 160. That would work with the stock valve I have in the picture of my hand holding the switch?

 

[shipmag]

Umm Charlie Meyer!!! I was wondering why you let following me? Well a good friend Mark Baker suggested to ask you these question as it's not in Marks ball park. So Charlie I ask you to respond to the post I sent Mark Jennings just before this post, please.

 

[shipmag]

Umm Charlie Meyer!!! I was wondering why you let following me? Well a good friend Mark Baker suggested to ask you these question as it's not in Marks ball park. So Charlie I ask you to respond to the post I sent Mark Jennings just before this post, please.

Is there a better temp relay switch to use than the one I found after talking to a summit racing? The part number they gave me was DER-16736. The cost was only $12 usd.