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Any idea where? I searched the site and these old eyes can't find it?Someplace on CCOT's website has a hose routing diagram.
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Any idea where? I searched the site and these old eyes can't find it?Someplace on CCOT's website has a hose routing diagram.
Any idea where? I searched the site and these old eyes can't find it?
I can't find the ccot reference you referring to please send me a url by going to the page your referring to then copy the url and paste it back to me please?Someplace on CCOT's website has a hose routing diagram.
I drew an arrow of the two lines I need help with as to where the other end connect to not shown in the pic?I love the pic thanks but I can't tell which hose from separator goes to which line on top of the tank. Could you edit your pic number the tubes on the tank and number the lines coming from the separator? Or does it matter?
I drew an arrow of the two lines I need help with as to where the other end connect to not shown in the pic?
Thank you
Ok so I completely finally understand the separator and the gas tank. Thank you for your patience and finding the ccot diagram.Thank you
My Weber 38DGAS carb does not have a return line going back to the gas tank. The line going back to the tank as a return line had been plugged. I use a stock oem pump recently replaced. Is this the correct thing to do for the Weber 38DGAS?
Glad to see this post. Been trying to find out where the hoses go to bypass the vacuum switch but got no responses. Would be nice to get pictures of the reroute layout.I think you are correct. Mine was all disconnected and plugged. Then the PO drilled a hole in the gas cap.
In my case the fuel separator, one-way check valve by the passenger b-pillar, charcoal canister, and hardline remained. I still use my 1974 intake, but I’ve got a 76/87 hybrid carb JimC built for me.
I was going to run it through a VSV (activated with a thermostat switch) to a carb port. But all the complaints stopped when I put on an OEM fuel cap and hooked everything up thru the charcoal canister. I also just use ethanol free fuel. I think that helps too.
If your hardline from the check valve to the charcoal canister has been open, I recommend blowing it out with some compressed air. Mud daubers built a next in mine.
I'm not clear what was your final fix for connecting the canister to the carburetor? You mention the BSVS and VSS valves are on work bench for years so how did you hook up your canister?You might dig in the 60's section. Maybe the giant "Desmog" thread. Warning, it's 60 pages! IIRC, the VSS went NLA then someone figured out a newer VSS number works, you just have to swap the vacuum port routing.
In a nut shell, I was going to put in a vacuum switch (BVSV) into one of my thermostat housing ports. The BVSV sources vacuum from the intake manifold. When the thermostat warms up, the switch opens and routes that vacuum to the VSS. The VSS opens then draws from the charcoal canister and sends that air into the carb/intake port of your choice.
Prior to the BVSV opening, all the fuel vapors are trapped between the fuel tank and the closed VSS. So the system is closed, and with fuel a functioning OEM fuel cap, essentially a sealed system. No odors.
My VSS and BVSV are buried on my workbench somewhere. And have been for years. So I have no photos to offer up.
All this is off the top of my head. I'm sure someone smart will be along soon to tell you how it actually works.
Any idea where? I searched the site and these old eyes can't find it?
Wow your schematic I understand the hook up shown but it's contrary to others schematics that led me to the separator connecting to the bottom of canister and the top connecting to the manifold. I was wondering what the second port on top of the canister connected to? Compare engineer8000 schematic to the one Mark FJ40 just posted. Which is right to me the fumes need to be pulled through the charcoal. So the bottom can't be atmosphere otherwise the fumes would not be pulled through the charcoal but bounce across the top of the charcoal? Just want a discussion on the proper way to connect the canister so the charcoal can absorb the fumes until pulled through to the manifold?Then it makes a bend and ties into the intake thru the VSV with a rubber tube.
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I never connected it. Once I hooked up the EVAP to the charcoal canister, I “temporarily“ just ran the output line to a small filter that vents to the atmosphere. I then ordered the VSS and BVSV. But by the time the parts arrived, all fuel smell complaints stopped. Subsequently, so did my effort.I'm not clear what was your final fix for connecting the canister to the carburetor? You mention the BSVS and VSS valves are on work bench for years so how did you hook up your canister?