Glucosamine treatment for an old warrior

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Marginal progress for this weekends work window. Spent way too much time battling the spring loaded automotive Rubiks cube known as a c-clip lock right.:bang::bang:

I eventually prevailed...
rdb5.webp
 
Cdaniel said:
Marginal progress for this weekends work window. Spent way too much time battling the spring loaded automotive Rubiks cube known as a c-clip lock right.:bang::bang:

I eventually prevailed...
Click to expand...

C-clip with an ARB in the rear diff was the same PITA when we installed the rear disk brakes on my 40 - took three days to get it sorted out with ARB, but, kudos to them, they sent some extra bolts for free :bounce: (didn't need as it turned out later, still have them)

"you are sure this is an ARB locker ?"

I answer something along the lines of 'blue lines to it, compressor is there, air activated, yada yada . . .' and that we opened the diff cover and what the locker looks like . . .

"but that is not the right part number"

"how can it not be the correct part number when it's the part number stamped on the locker ?"

"it's one number/digit too short"

"too short for what ?"

"hold on . . . " - holding . . . . then "sounds like it could be a part number to an older model ARB locker, but that would be really old - so you will have to wait until Steve is in, he is the only one who knows stuff this old" - (and there was some reference to having to call Australia, but I never got confirmation of that particular detail)

"in the meanwhile, would a picture help ?"

"uhm, yeah, great idea - email it to . . . " (this was before forums were widely used ;))

. . .

took two days to get to the Steve guy who really knew how to find the C-clip to release the axle shafts . . . :rolleyes: :lol:

evidently, my ARB lockers are prehistoric :hillbilly: :cool: - I started beginning then to think my rig and I are, too :lol: :flamingo:

needless to say, the lockers have worked for all these years, and when we opened the rear diff in 2005, they looked like brand new (from what we can figure, they were installed shortly after ARB came on the US market in '89) :cool:

we have never had reason to look at the front ARB in the decade I have had the 40 :cool:
 
Last edited:
More incremental progress...

I wanted to mount the calipers high and in front, but the spring over situation made for non removal of one of the caliper pins.

Made a pair of brackets to mount the hoses. Turned out that my lower shock mount called for some hoses longer than the ones called for in the initial parts list.

All buttoned up with re routed plumbing.

On to the master cylinder.....
rdb6.webp
rdb7.webp
rdb8.webp
 
RDB project complete! And while it was propped up I popped on a pair of old 1 inch lift shackles I had. Needed just a bit of leveling after the front SOA.

1st pic: Residual pressure valve was MIA :confused: Might be part of the non existent rear braking :rolleyes:

2nd: Bracket fab for Wilwood prop valve.

3rd: Installed with re routed hard lines

Neighborhood test drive was a dramatic difference. Seems the initial almost full reduction setting on the prop valve is good. Firmer pedal, more responsive. No apparent leaks from all of the home flare connections :) Tomorrow some traffic.....
rdb9.webp
rdb10.webp
rdb11.webp
 
Nicely done. Inspiration! Do you have the part number for the Proportioning Valve? Did you have to do any other changes to the Master Cylinder? I thought I saw something about using a 80 series MC.
 
msahr said:
Nicely done. Inspiration! Do you have the part number for the Proportioning Valve? Did you have to do any other changes to the Master Cylinder? I thought I saw something about using a 80 series MC.[/QUOTE :

260-10922 is the valve I used. They have 3 versions with different port threads. I ordered one with 10mm threads and it turned out to be bubble flare (didn't read close enough). Not wanting to buy another tube flaring tool just for the bubble type, I got the 3/8-24 IF thread version and the matching nuts. As for the master, nothing else to do on a stock 77. The other options are more for when converting the front too. Or upgrading instead of replacing the expensive and/or non existing stock late 70s booster.
Click to expand...
 
Front SOA bump stops 1.0. Cut up a pair of old, battered and now unused U-bolt skid plates.

Installed on top of the spring plate with the old bump stop re locating bracket from the old shackle reversal set up.

I think it should be close according to last trail run bystander observations. We shall see.....
bumps1.webp
bumps2.webp
 
msahr said:
Nicely done. Inspiration! Do you have the part number for the Proportioning Valve? Did you have to do any other changes to the Master Cylinder? I thought I saw something about using a 80 series MC.
Click to expand...

I ran an old 1974 drum brake master for 15+ years with 4 wheel disc brakes without problems. All I did to the drum master was to remove eye residual valves from both circuits. When it died recently (at least 23 years since a rebuild), I replaced it with an 80 master & Booster. The 80 components are awesome, it'll lock up all fours on dry pavement with the pressure from two fingers...:eek: Almost too much braking assist.
 
And, while considering bump stops, It was high time I stopped using so much of my rear tires to limit up travel. Added some quickie spacers to the rear. We'll try this for a while and see if the tread stops beating up the tub seams.
bumps3.webp
 
Which EFI computer are you running?

I saw a post somewhere from Downey that they found the stock programming for (if I recall correctly) an S10 Auto ran as well or better than any programming that they came up with.
 
bikersmurf said:
Which EFI computer are you running?

I saw a post somewhere from Downey that they found the stock programming for (if I recall correctly) an S10 Auto ran as well or better than any programming that they came up with.
Click to expand...

The kit is from Howell and programmed for my setup. I have several friends running this kit for many years with great results.
 
I forgot for a moment you're running a V8...:D Also.
 
Chipping away at the EFI install an hour or two at a time. The 1st big deal was pulling the trigger on a new big hole in the firewall.
tbi1.webp


Next, a trip to the bone yard got a throttle cable, bracket and pedal from a 90 GM truck. The square hole previously made for the Q-jet cable had to be opened up a little.
tbi2.webp


Added part of the GM pedal to the Toyota one.
tbi5.webp


Added the bung for the O2 sensor
tbi6.webp
 
The knock sensor is normally threaded into a water jacket port. Of course the plug was way tight and the hex stripped out. Rather than go through the ordeal and mess of getting it out, I plugged the sensor into a threaded hole just above the oil filter. Used an 1/8 pipe coupling with one end tapped to 1/2-13 for a set screw to mate with the engine block.

tbi3.webp


tbi4.webp
 
So this is a Howell EFI Kit? Or just the brain box, wires and you find the rest in the boneyard? Very curious as to how this works...

Cheers!
 
1Fine40 said:
So this is a Howell EFI Kit? Or just the brain box, wires and you find the rest in the boneyard? Very curious as to how this works...

Cheers!
Click to expand...
The kit is complete. Or you can get individual components. Only the throttle pedal mods are from elsewhere.
 
And it runs! :bounce:

After many hours of noodling I finally settled on velcro mounting an ECM bracket to the glove box floor. With the systems fuse panel right beside. Im leaving the ADL connector loose for easy access later. Still have an A/C request wire to plug in if needed to compensate for my on board air if needed.
tbi7.webp


The O2 sensor installed
tbi9.webp


After driving a little it was very apparent the new throttle set up was way too twitchy for off road bouncing. A little more mods to the pedal to be a bit shorter. Improved the driving position of my ankle too. Something I've been wishing for forever. Still not very ergo for my 6'4" self, but better. :)
tbi8.webp


Initial impressions are very good. Great throttle response all through the range. Pulls harder than the Q-Jet when floored. So far the only con is a high curb idle. I'll be contacting Howell about it directly. Need to get some more miles in to let the programming settle in. Fortunately the weather is perfect for commuting in the convertible right now:clap:
 
Sweeet! It is nice to hear that a "kit" actually works out of the box....well, mostly anyway! Hope the programming and "dial-in" period are uneventful but productive!

Cheers!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom