Glucosamine treatment for an old warrior

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Back on the subject of your exhaust bolts, don't use either grade 5 or grade 8 for that application.

Have a look at sites such as www.fastenal.com if you question this.

(I'd upload the info and post it here except for some strange reason ih8mud won't allow me to post pics right now.)

It's misguided to think you're getting stronger bolts by using Quenched & Tempered (Grade 5 and Grade 8) bolts in high temperature applications.

Grade 2 would actually be stronger in this high temp situation.

:cheers:

Edit: Yay... I can upload pics the way I used to once again ... Thanks administrators... This isn't from fastenal.com but it says something similar to what they do:
HighTempFailure.webp

And maybe I'm talking sh#t saying Grade 2 would be stronger ... but then the above text supports this view... :meh:
(I sort of expected someone to challenge me on that when I wrote it.)
HighTempFailure.webp
 
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I'm a believer after seeing the results in my hands.


lostmarbles said:
Back on the subject of your exhaust bolts, don't use either grade 5 or grade 8 for that application.

Have a look at sites such as www.fastenal.com if you question this.

(I'd upload the info and post it here except for some strange reason ih8mud won't allow me to post pics right now.)

It's misguided to think you're getting stronger bolts by using Quenched & Tempered (Grade 5 and Grade 8) bolts in high temperature applications.

Grade 2 would actually be stronger in this high temp situation.

:cheers:

Edit: Yay... I can upload pics the way I used to once again ... Thanks administrators... This isn't from fastenal.com but it says something similar to what they do:
View attachment 819251

And maybe I'm talking sh#t saying Grade 2 would be stronger ... but then the above text supports this view... :meh:
(I sort of expected someone to challenge me on that when I wrote it.)
Click to expand...
 
Made it out to a trail for a shake down run today. Some good news/bad news.

Good news is the old beast brought me back home and participated in some rescue antics on a steep hill in reverse:rolleyes: Other good news is the suspension rides pretty good. Real stable and straight on the hiway. Engine ran great with the exception of carb grumpyness on above mentioned hill. The Orion made life a lot easier, but I did have it pop out of low range on some steep down hills.

Bad news is my power steering is not very powerful. Seems to barely be working in the rocks. Not sure where to go on this now. Also had a brand new exhaust hanger break already. Still have some oil leaks to chase, but the coating of AZ dust will pinpoint the sources now:hillbilly:
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hey, look at the positive: too many fine 40s in AZ don't even have the chance to come of the garage :frown:

:cheers: BTW, sorry we couldn't make it to the run
 
Shake down rework #1: Busted exhaust mount.
The busted

The upgrade, 2001 Chevy truck part.

The install. Also upgraded the other mount point.
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it would be even more dusty if you would've had it on the truck :doh: BTDT :hillbilly:
 
Okay fellow followers of Cliff's carnage and chaos.....an update!
Been a little while because the dune season is upon me and I've been tending to all manner of RV and sand toy maintenance and repair. So while that has a lull I got back to the old beast.

So shake down run revealed the anemic power steering. I paid a visit to the builder of the box and pump. Explained that I was done with him when the pump blew its cool for the second time, but now here I am with a cooler head and problems.

He understood my frustration and proceeded to diagnose the issue as a weak pump (Oreilly reman at this point). He offered to do the pump again personally, not one of his minions. We decided it may be best to try a different core. I brought him a bone yard find and a new can to "upgrade" to a remote reservoir.

I installed the fresh pump and reservoir. Upon startup I had a real bad problem with aeration in the fluid. Not a bleed off issue, it was creating it's own air. PS builder suggests adding clamps to the push lock hoses as it may pull air. Not impressed with idea but I tried it. No change.

While watching the fluid in the res I could see a design flaw. The return is dead headed against a cross drill hole and squirts like your thumb on a garden hose. I tried a make shift baffle to give the bubbles a chance to escape. Big improvement, but not enough to keep up past idle speed. Fellow CSC member Toolsrus suggested the return size is too small and may be cavitating the pump too.

I looked into the res return size and found another flaw. The -10AN fitting on it was adapted to a -8. :rolleyes: The adapter was also pressed into the can, sure to eventually leak. So I knocked out the adapter, opened up the -10 ftg a little and welded it on. Drilled through the return dead head too. These improvements made a big difference. It was bubble free at idle. However after a few blocks of driving the bubble whine creeped back in. Still cavitating.

Back to basics. Following an idea from Texican, I went back to a regular res and added and extension to the fill for some extra capacity. This set up seems to be the right thing so far. Haven't had it on the hiway yet, but a prolonged high RPM test shows no bubbles at all. I'm hopeful ;p Steering feels more responsive now too, we'll see.

Pics:
Now defunct remote res.
Temp baffle.
Dumb ass AN adapter.
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Also addressed another annoying issue. All this removing and replacing PS pumps has been a real pain. The pump bolted on real easy while the engine was on the stand. Not so much while in the Cruiser. My foresight did not leave enough space to remove the pump between the bracket and frame. A real pisser to wiggle it just right then bang it through.:mad:

So, I made a little clearance on the bracket. Okay a lot of clearance. Took a few tries, but the pump goes in real easy now. :D
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Also a shout out to Speedway Motors! They demonstrated a rare thing these days. True customer service and standing behind their products.

I wrote a less than glowing review on their reservoir on their website. To my surprise a refund appeared on my paypal account:eek:

Unprompted refund? Unheard of. I was suspicious it might be a paypal scam and called them about it. It was real. They apologized for my trouble too. :clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap:
 
BTW, Speedway has a really cool car museum in Lincoln, NE (adjacent to their headquarters; I was fortunate to get a custom tour there several years ago :cool:) - definitely worth visiting

[heavily leaning towards Fords, since that's what Bill Smith used to race, but can be forgiven once you see all the cool stuff they have - hundreds of pedal cars, too]
 
cruiserjunkie said:
Good to hear finally workable power assist. In hindsight what would you have done differently with your steering. Looking great
Click to expand...

What would I change? Hmmmm, jury is still out on this one. I haven't really put it to the test yet. There are some pros and cons to moving the box behind the cross member vs out in front. And adding high steer brought some compromises. Using the Sag box vs a Toyota of the same style might be a regret in the long run. Or not :hhmm:

The ol guy definitely drives better now. Hard to say if any single change or the combo has done that.
 
Still plugging away at the list. Finally back at it after appeasing sand toy gods for awhile. Old soldier gets some more of his due.

Rear disk brakes:clap:

1st pic is the pile of parts collected from the comprehensive list here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/443392-depth-rear-disc-brake-conversion.html
Took forever to round up 12 longer studs:rolleyes:

Pic 2, out with the axles after much cursing removing c-clips from a lock rite. Revealing nasty old in operative rear shoes.

Pic 3, new axle seals from Cruiser Outfitters.

Pic 4, new longer studs installed.

Hopefully it will be sooner than several weeks for more progress.
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Cdaniel said:
Still plugging away at the list. Finally back at it after appeasing sand toy gods for awhile. Old soldier gets some more of his due.

Rear disk brakes:clap:

1st pic is the pile of parts collected from the comprehensive list here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/443392-depth-rear-disc-brake-conversion.html
Took forever to round up 12 longer studs:rolleyes:

Pic 2, out with the axles after much cursing removing c-clips from a lock rite. Revealing nasty old in operative rear shoes.

Pic 3, new axle seals from Cruiser Outfitters.

Pic 4, new longer studs installed.

Hopefully it will be sooner than several weeks for more progress.
Click to expand...

Hey cliff -

Do you have a part number for those longer rear studs? There seems to be a lot of debate on here about what works and what doesn't! I'm about to go through this myself.
 
RWBeringer4x4 said:
Hey cliff -

Do you have a part number for those longer rear studs? There seems to be a lot of debate on here about what works and what doesn't! I'm about to go through this myself.
Click to expand...

610-265 is the Dorman number I used from camcruisers thread. Local suppliers only had 1 or 2 in stock. Ended up ordering from Summit.
 
Huh I'm getting ready to do this myself. Got the kit from Man-A-Fre a while ago.
 
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