Gloss or Satin Clear-coat? (1 Viewer)

[Skydog]

Hello:

The FJ40 I'm currently rebuilding will be repainted a metallic, blue-green Jade color as its base coat. It will need a clear-coat on top of this. A "normal," gloss clear-coat will indeed bring-out the metallic of the paint (somewhat heavily); but being a '40, is it customary to go "no gloss, or perhaps less gloss" ?

(It seems I've seen a lot of glossy-finished FJ40's... but I'm knowing I'm not wanting to go overly glossy on the finish of my own.)

The PO had painted the '40 the metallic Jade, which was glossy ~ and it looked really good. Actually Great. I'll simply be repainting it with a somewhat close-matched hue of the same metallic color. - But would I go wrong to dull-out the character of its former sheen?

Question #1 : In this situation, would YOU go with a normal (gloss) clear-coat (of which I currently have); or would you apply a satin clear-coat instead; or, would you advise I apply the existing clear coat and then as a second coating, apply either lightly or equally a satin clear-coat immediately after?

Question #2 : Could I instead simply reduce the ratio of hardener within the gloss clear-coat, that it becomes rendered less shiny, but still with a sheen? ... And if so, would the durability of the finished paint be adversely compromised?

Thanks for your take & suggestions on this !
Skydog

 

[AussieHJCruza]

I'd do it shiny. I know it's a 40, and some may feel this to be inappropriate, but if you're doing new paint, it might as well look like it for all your hard work and cash gone into it. Maybe just me. I polish and wax the HJ47 and sometimes use tyre black, so I am a shiny paint person and may be biased. See what others say.

 

[77wagon]

I have been debating the same thing. I far from painting but when I do I would like to keep it flat or semi gloss. I'm just not sure because seems like the gloss would protect better by keeping water off. I'm interested in anyone's feedback or experience also.

 

[SSCR]

Factory was single stage no clear which I like. My next build will be flat. If you have metallic and really want to see it, go gloss. Just my 2 cents.


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[gcrump01]

This is pretty cool.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=...unEY3KKsC9kcB0vyCwy3LtUw&ust=1401372487190641

 

[vtgbeemer]

Eventhough they came from the factory with a gloss it wasn't a basecoat/clearcoat finish. If you go back with a metallic base and a less than glossy clear, the metallic won't pop, but the imperfections won't either so it is purely your personal choice. There is one question asked that needs addressing and that is concerning the clear coat. I assume you are using a 2K urethane and reducing the amount of hardener is not advised.

 

[studawg]

"Metallic blue-green jade"??? Metallic paint has no business on a 40. For that matter, neither does clear coat. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Skydog]

89cruiserfj62 : The picture here is not my '40, nor a picture I had made, simply a grab from the internet. However, this one happens to look strikingly

similar to mine.

Mine was originally Sky Blue; however, the PO had repainted it to a blue-green metallic color, as similar to the green metallic one in this picture. The clincher at my end was that family and friends were adamant, across the board, that I maintain the hue of color & appearance of the existing paint - when I repaint it. And I was in agreement ~ in person, it's indeed a 'pretty' color on the vehicle.

I'm not sure why I went with a 2-stage paint (base & clear coat) over the single stage of the same. It was purchased from Sherwin-Williams automotive, and the expert there suggested it simply didn't matter which way I went. My thought, at the time of purchase, was that with the clear coat, I could then buff-out or correct imperfections more easily down the road.

Perhaps a Satin clear coat would be the way for me to go? As vtgbeemer suggested, it'll reduce the glitter-aspect of the metallic (although it'll still be seen), and will reduce the imperfections within the paint as well.

Thanks,
Skydog

 

[Skydog]

vtgbeemer :

Yes ~ I've recently learned (from Sherwin-Williams automotive - the place of purchase) to NOT alter the ratio of hardner within the clear coat. I was previously advised that reducing the amount of hardener within the clear coat 'likely' would reduce the induced sheen. I felt less than easy about this (believing the ratio of hardener was needed to maintain proper durability) - and in re-speaking with them (the manager), I now know not to deviate at all. I've learned the clear coat will not dry correctly, let alone will remain "gummy." The clear coat I purchased at the time, and still have, is made by Barrett-Jackson. It was the only product offered to me at the time (as I was/am on a very strict budget). I realized not there was a Satin-finish clear coat alternative.

Based on your words above, and logical to me, I'm thinking a Satin clear coat would be the way for me to go. Although I do not mind the metallic within the paint, I'm knowing I'm NOT wanting the FJ40 to in any way be 'glittery.' The Satin clear will uphold the metallic, but not make it "showy." Equal to this, reducing the apparentness & visibility of the induced imperfections (of which I know there will be) - is an attractive concept to me.

Thanks for your words,
Marc

 

[super40]

The metalic glittery is cheesy looking on body panels. My 02.

 

[Skydog]

super40 ~ I concur.

Thx,
Skydog

 

[cjgoode]

Go with a good quality single stage paint. If you want it glossy buff it up, if you want it less glossy sand it lightly with an extremely high grit sand paper to take the shine off.

 

[Skydog]

cjgoode :

Chris, I've already got the 2-stage, 2K basecoat paint on hand (was purchased for this specific rebuild) ~ 3 quarts of it (base), and am thinking I'll need a gallon. It's mixed paint. ~ I'm needing to live with it (and really, it's truly an attractive, lively color)

As vtgbeemer noted, a gloss clear-coat will highlight the metallic. It should also be somewhat easy to repair imperfections, albeit they'll be more noticeable. Where as, the Satin will no doubt be more along the lines of "ruggedness," and will help to shield imperfections (but will likely be more difficult to repair - at least as I'm thinking & led to believe). In honest, I'm thinking the Satin clear-coat could look good on the blue-green 'Jade' metallic paint.

The metallic will likely shine, at lest in direct sunlight, but would be rendered less than obnoxious, as the overall sheen of light across the paint will be somewhat reduced.

No?

Thanks,
Marc

 

[melvinjo]

Metallics look good with gloss: In satin it will look flat and metallics do not look good that way

 

[Skydog]

melvinjo :

I'm truly still on the fence with this one (which of the two ways to go), and am taking to heart your words that "metallics do not look good that way" on satin, which will make the metallics "look flat".

I'm waiting on the mail-delivery of a part for the air compressor I'm using, but will soon be able to re-test the (2-stage) base paint with the gloss clear I currently have. Conversely, I won't have an easy way to test Satin clear (as I don't have any) prior to actually purchasing a gallon of it (which is basically expensive for me & my project). The vehicle of mine previously looked REALLY GOOD with the metallic paint (a blue-green), being that the sheen of its paint was overall 'glossy.'

So, I'm knowing I'm in agreement with you - and am knowing that I might "screw it up" if a non-gloss clear-coat is applied to the 2-stage base-coat paint I already have and am needing to re-apply.

Thanks for your honest words - they're appreciated and well received.
m.

 

[scrapdaddy]

It is my understanding, because my painter and paint store, were explaining that if I went with the satin clear, you couldn't buff it out. So, if any dirt, etc. gets in it, you have to start over. Painter didn't even want to try it. Anybody heard of that?

 

[Fast Eddy]

Metallic? Eew.

 

[Skydog]

Fast Eddy : Well, Eddy, it's what I have to work with. How do I make the 2-stage paint look Abnormally Good ???

Marc

 

[CuAnEm]

Marc,

Go with your gut. If you're going to go with the expense of using metallic paint, make sure you can tell it's metallic paint by using a gloss clear coat. You can always "deaden" the sheen on a gloss, but it's impossible to make a satin more glossy. Go for it and post pics when completed.

Pat

 

[JohnVee]

Simple. You liked the previous color enough to do it again. Are you willing to take a chance that it won't turn out the same?


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