Gloss or Satin Clear-coat? (1 Viewer)

[mcjb]

I know my friends at school always would add a little metallic to flat black to certain parts to make it shine along turns just slightly. I would think thats what u would want - just slighty and not blingy. But that is black... Not sure how blue green would turn out nor if blue green metallic with satin would equal that. Id think even the metallic with satin would show more and be too much. I always try to ask myself is it better looking than oem? Then i ask it again and again and again until im sure. I see a few examples that are better from time to time but honestly most changes i see are worse. I went to car design school so im picky that way tho. Bad design choices made by the PO's on mine bug the crap out of me.

And an abnormally good paint job probably will look abnormal on a 40. They were meant to be more understated and utilitarian and not a hot rod attention grabber - they tend not to look good when trying too hard paint wise from what ive seen. When you add more utilitarian aspects to a 40 that's when it tends to go better if you want it to garner attention. Good luck.

 

[SSCR]

Buy new paint and paint it the original sky blue, it will increase resale value and look the best in my opinion


...via IH8MUD app

 

[vtgbeemer]

It is my understanding, because my painter and paint store, were explaining that if I went with the satin clear, you couldn't buff it out. So, if any dirt, etc. gets in it, you have to start over. Painter didn't even want to try it. Anybody heard of that?

Ditto on what scrapdaddy said. SSCR has a definite point especially if the interior is the original color.

 

[AussieHJCruza]

I think I should clarify my previous post...go a shiny finish, but if the option is there, use a high-quality single stage paint. I'm not sure about the metallic though, may not work in single stage. I think on a modern vehicle, the metallic or pearlescent component of the paint is in the clear coat, not the base pigment coat. One of the beauties of the 40 series is their simplicity. Maybe a better option would, as has been said, be to return her to factory colour.
I am more at ease polishing the HJ47 than a new car, because I'm not worried about cutting through the clear-coat (Rotary polisher) - there isn't one to cut through. It's easier to repair defects in paint IMHO when you don't have to constantly monitor yourself, the pressure you're applying, the product and pad you're using and the way you're moving the polisher.

 

[roadstr6]

My vote is for the original color. If you are in love with the metallic blue-green, go with gloss. It makes good sense. Flat or low gloss metallic in blue or blue-green will look unfinished...like 2 stage paint without the clear coat. Metallics need the clear to make the flake pop. I think the best flat colors are black, gray and the drab camo colors like tan and brown. Anything else just looks like you forgot to put the clear on. Automotive flat paint is nearly impossible to touch up if you get a ding or scrape. Having said that, I am in the process of painting my 40 flat khaki using rattle cans. It's cheap and if I need to touch it up, all I have to do is hit it again with the spray bomb.

 

[Skydog]

Hello all:

From the above advice (thank you), I'll apply the normal, 2K gloss clear coat (as opposed to a 2K Satin one), that was suggested & sold to me by Sherwin-Williams automotive, to the metallic blue-green base coat (metallic Jade) that I already have and will need to apply to my FJ40. ... and I'll therefore likely name her, 'Jade.'

Although the new paint is a bit darker and a bit more green (than seen here), here is a picture of one of the doors (from my phone), which sports the pre-existing METALLIC paint (painted by the PO over the original Sky Blue color of the '40). The color on this door (which I'll be repainting upon being able to do so ~ am doing my best to progress my way to it) is actually --Extremely Attractive-- in its physical appearance. As a history, my '40 had been garaged & not driven for some 20 years now; but when driven last, way back in the day, virtually Every Single Time I drove it - INVARIABLY SOMEBODY would approach and seriously want to buy it. My answer was always a resounding, "NOPE !" :-D

Tomorrow, I will be able to test-paint the new base coat onto a scrap of new sheet metal, which I've now already primed. And after clear coating it with the gloss clear, I would like to post for you an image of the result of it within this thread. I'll photo it both in sunlight and in shade, and at different angles. Interestingly, I'm believing the hue of the paint will alter from a blue to a green, based upon the angle of light; and from a near black to an almost white (of sheen), based upon the angle of view to the surface. In honest, it should end-up being exciting to look at - - but in my hope & earnest strive, NOT Showy or Glittery !!!.

marc

 

[Skydog]

Regarding paint on my '40 - - My Most Awesomest Wheels !!! Here is a picture of "Jade's" common steel wheels I had painted with multiple types of Rustoleum's 'Universal' product line of rattle-can paint.

The wheels were of course previously white; and more so, I repainted them an Off-white color, which was a 2K base coat urethane paint from Sherwin-Williams automotive paints. The Off-white wheels were Awesome too - however - when I applied the clear coat sold to me by Sherwin-Williams, two things happened : 1) the clear coat turned the nice-looking Off-white wheels to an undesired hue of yellow. And 2) the clear coat was of course glossy; so, I now had Glossy Yellow Wheels ... Ugggggg !!!

I sanded the then finished wheels as best I could with a grinder and hand sandpaper, etc (couldn't afford to have the five of them sandblasted because of my learned error), and re-painted them a second time with a newly purchased, 2nd quart of the same, mixed-for-me Off-white. I then spot-tested a Matte clear coat for wheels, made by Duplicolor (in the form of a rattle-can), in an area of one of the wheels that would be concealed by the tire. I noticed that Duplicolor clear affected the urethane paint, but not by very much. I therefore considered it a "Go." I applied two rattle-cans of the Duplicolor Matte clear to the entirety of one of the five wheels. And then BAM !!! ... Unobserved prior to now, various, isolated parts of the wheel turned bright Aqua-green (the obvious reaction of Duplicolor's alkaline clear coat on top of the urethane base).

"Enough of the Off-white & its $$$expense," I said to myself, deciding the Off-white on all five wheels "was toast." And that's when I went with my All-Time Favorite color on a wheel - GUN METAL !

To create the Gun Metal color, seen here, I applied a mixture of various paint types within Rustoleum's Universal product line (Glossy Dark Steel, Satin Black, and Metallic Flat Soft Iron). I think the wheels now look Fantastic - HOWEVER, they're now quite vulnerable (to chipping & chemicals) ~ I'm sure of it. So, I now must conjure a way to protect them (via a clear coat). ... Any suggestions??? (!!! No solid-Gloss clear On These !!! ~ only Satin clear, or a uniform mix of Matte & Gloss).

 

[Skydog]

And while I'm at it...
Here's the Hi-Lift jack of "Jade's" that I painted. The old, worn-out red (seen here) is of my doing, as the jack was originally bright, Safety-red. And also seen here, I painted the other portions of the jack as well. Not photoed is the Jerry Can I painted with the same old, worn-out red theme. It too is now AWESOME !!!

 

[scrapdaddy]

Nice work on all that. I think, whatever paint you go with, your 40 is in good hands.

 

[Franz]

Not a paint expert so cannot give you any advise, but I think the wheels look great. Also like how much fun you seem to be having - really the point of these trucks not so? So don't stress too much about the color, just go for it!