Yeah, I'd start here by first finding a copy to that Supplement so you can correctly identify the relays and wiring. For some reason I though that @2mbb had a copy of that Supplement, but I might be wrong. You could try sending him a PM to see if it is a soft copy...if not, ebay or maybe even Toyota or post in the Classified Wanted section to see if anyone else knows where you can find either a downloadable soft copy or a hard copy...
Getting it road worthy. Whats wrong with the carb.
- Thread starter LAgallegos
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Yeah, I'd start here by first finding a copy to that Supplement so you can correctly identify the relays and wiring. For some reason I though that @2mbb had a copy of that Supplement, but I might be wrong. You could try sending him a PM to see if it is a soft copy...if not, ebay or maybe even Toyota or post in the Classified Wanted section to see if anyone else knows where you can find either a downloadable soft copy or a hard copy...
Torque wrench?? or Breaker Bar?
A Torque wrench is a specially calibrated wrench for tightening a bolt/nut to a specified torque. I would not use a torque wrench to remove stubborn bolts...just for 'torquing' on bolts to spec...
Double check to make sure you are turning the nut/bolt in the correct (CCW to remove, CW to tighten) direction to remove it. Also know that you might have to use a wrench to hold the nut on the top side of that tire carrier bar while you turn.
If the head of the nut/bolt is stripping, you can get a set of these:
http://www.harborfreight.com/9-pc-38-in-drive-metric-bolt-extractor-socket-set-67894.html
They will grab into the head of the nut allowing you to remove stripped nuts. I think Home Depot sells a set made by Irwin, but they are Standard, not Metric, if I recall...but should still work...I use them on my 60 all the time (muffler work for example)...
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Also at Home Depot or the likes, search for a good, hollow metal tube that you can slide over the end of a breaker bar or wratchet...I find my hollow tube 'tool' in the garbage at HD and got it for free and it fits just right over the handle(s) of my 1/2 driver bars/ratchets...
So what are you using to rotate the bar that goes into the slot?
Can you cut a correct size square hole in a piece of metal pipe or tube to make your own 'turn the bar' bar? Or somehow come up with a solution that gives you enough torque to crank on that bar?
Or post up in the Classified Wanted section here on MUD to see if anyone has that bar that you are missing?
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Know that the gas tank is right above you...and that if the gas tank is leaking fumes, if leaked gas vapor reaches the minimum concentration for combustion then it can ignite.
A breaker bar (1/2 drive with the right size socket or one of those extractor bolt sockets) and the metal tube extension should give you enough torque to either break the bolt free or break the bolt off....
Nice! That counts as progress!!
Wonderful...I see either some rust work in your future or that could be a nifty escape hatch mod...although it is a bit small, so maybe in a couple years...
- Thread starter
- #268
That set-up looks like it might do the trick. Finding the right tool is often half the battle...
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
This is more true than any other statement. Doing my knuckle rebuild I had read that you could use a flathead screwdriver and mallet to get under the old seal and pop it out. Spent 45 minutes trying, bent two cheap flatheads and finally said screw it. Went to Autozone and bought a $20 seal puller and the seal was out in 5 seconds. Sometimes having a different method helps and will get the job done, but there is a difference between just getting the job done and getting it done RIGHT.
- Thread starter
- #271
I found the manual specifically for the 1985 on eBay. Hopefully will get here next week
The more and more time I spend on cars the more I have to agree. Thanks guys for pointing me to the right tools!
The more and more time I spend on cars the more I have to agree. Thanks guys for pointing me to the right tools!
Nice, the Toyota Supplement one? Got a link to it?
Well, hopefully those will do the trick...either way, having a breaker bar and a set of those sockets is worth having in the tool set for when you need them...!
Sweet, dude! That looks like the one! ...and a good price, too...now let's hope it has the updated Body Electrical and Wiring Diagram that you need...
- Thread starter
- #276
So even these sockets are stripping... I'm gonna try to man mode it and just cut the bolts off.
Hmm...it's hard to read from the image you posted above, but is the socket set you got from HF the 'Extractor' kind here or just regular socekts?:
http://www.harborfreight.com/9-pc-38-in-drive-metric-bolt-extractor-socket-set-67894.html
Other thing to confirm is that these bolt's that are stripping are actually bolts or just a part of the cross member that has threads in it (think along the line of a nut that has been welded at the bottom of the hole in the cross member) and the bolts actually come out from the top (between the top of the cross member and the bottom of the gas tank)...
Have you got a good picture of these stubborn bolts/nuts?
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Also for the bolt-out sockets, it looks like HF sells a SAE and Metric kit, be sure that you got the metric one as the SAE may be just large enough to keep stripping the head.
Here's another MUDer working on tail light issues:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/tail-rear-running-lights-fj60-not-working.825072/#post-9466167
see post #3 by Woytovich for recommendation on where to find ground to check/clean/refasten...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/tail-rear-running-lights-fj60-not-working.825072/#post-9466167
see post #3 by Woytovich for recommendation on where to find ground to check/clean/refasten...
- Thread starter
- #280
I didn't see the metric at HF. So I have a SAE, which is probably part of the problem....
