Getting it road worthy. Whats wrong with the carb.

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LAgallegos

LAgallegos

10 Year
Joined
May 14, 2014
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Spokane, WA
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So finally got my first fj60 this last weekend. Been looking for one for a while and got a great deal. ANYWAY, it needs a little help to get her road worthy. Right now the first problem I'm trying to tackle is the carb. So She starts every time (usually with the help of some starter fluid) and won't idle unless the choke is on. I'm guessing it just needs a carb rebuild. But just wanting to make sure. I'm uploading a video to youtube right now to give you a better idea of whats happening. I'll like it when that finishes
IMG_0549.webp
 
check for vacumn leaks, also make sure the idle solenoid is working. the green connector should have power, and hear a click when the key is on.
 
^^x2 on what @3_puppies suggests.

check Idle Cut Solenoid (aka ICS aka Fuel Cut Solenoid) first (search MUD for the test/modification).

Then, if the ICS checks out, then you've got to be thinking vac leaks (insulator gasket that sits between carb and intake manifold (when you have the carb off to replace this, check down the opening of the intake manifold to see if the aluminum floor of the intake manifold below the opening is cracked - you can also check this with the carb on by twisting the throttle torque rod and peeping down the throat of the primary carb barrel with the air filter cover off), all the gaskets on the EGR system, PCV valve (clean in a solvent overnight and reuse the OEM one) and PCV grommet (only buy from Toyota), intake/exhaust manifold, and then also all the vac hoses that run the emissions components (see Emissions FSM to test emissions components).

FSMs:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fsms.743084/

Then do a tune up.

Here's the procedure for 'Lean Drop Method' for adjusting the carb:

lean drop 2.webp
 
if you can verify the Idle solenoid is working, then the next thing is to find your source of vacuum leaks- these are air leaks INTO the air fuel stream that mess up the mixture going into the cylinders. about the only way to find them is to use short bursts of flammable fluid in an aerosol form; using short bursts of the stuff on each point of connection in the intake tract while engine is running. fire a burst at the rear manifold and wait to see if idle goes up or down a short bit after shooting the starting fluid. if not there, move to a different suspect...things like egr valve, vacuum switches etc can all be sources of vacuum leaks. the carb could need a rebuild, but this sounds like classic intake leak/ malfunctioning idle solenoid
 
LAgallegos said:
Okay thanks. Also. call me stupid. but I can't for the life of me figure out what this is and where these hoses go. It was like this when I bought it
Click to expand...

It's called a VCV (Vacuum Control Valve). The VCV shown in your pictures (there is another VCV on the DS fender that works in the gas venting system) is used to regulate the flow of fresh air from an air filter on the PS firewall (where it draws fresh air from the vehicle's cabin), through/under the distributor cap and into the air filter housing. It keeps fumes from building up under the dizzy cap and igniting.

If your lines are like that, I would certainly remove the dizzy cap and take a look under there. If there is a lot of corrosion under there, your engine performance issues might be related to that. Put on a new cap/rotor.

See Emissions FSM for testing procedure of the VCV.

For confusion on the routing of the vac lines to/from the VCV (for what it's worth, I have the lines on my rig routed as per diagram #2 on post #1 on the following thread), see:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/vcv-plumbing-confusion.173943/

Anyone know the correct routing??
 
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LAgallegos said:
The idle solenoid is getting power but I don't hear a click but maybe I'm just missing it. There are no leaks initially at the carb but I need to trace the lines back and see.
Click to expand...

Have you found the directions on how to check to see if the ICS is functioning correctly?

Short version:

1) with engine off (not running), disconnect the green connector for the ICS at the carb
2) turn the key in the ignition to 'on' (on but engine not running)
3) go back to engine bay and reconnect ICS green connector. You should hear a 'click' of the ICS engaging.
4) if you don't hear a click, it is most likely because the ICS isn't grounding correctly (it grounds through the "Emissions Computer")

Is it clicking when you run this test?
 
Yep, work on fixing those vac leaks before worrying about the carb. The reason why is that you should be able to get the truck to idle if there are no vac leaks but the idle circuit in the carb is clogged or there is some other issue with the carb. But the other way around doesn't work. The reason is, like Lambcrusher points out, the vac leaks are allowing air to get into the air/fuel mixture AFTER the carb has already done what it was supposed to do mixing the air/fuel to get the correct mixture for combustion...
So if you get all the vac leaks identified and fixed, then you can set the idle mixture and idle speed screws to get it to idle, even if the carb isn't performing perfectly. Then you can go from there....decide to do a carb rebuild or not...
 
that vcv is prolly your leak; I had one go bad internally, gave me heckle finding where the leak was as it did not change idle quality by messing with exterior(ie starter fluid at carb base; intake flange; each and every vacuum fitting and doohickey...could not isolate it till I disconnected and capped every line and re-hooking them back up one by one...search the keyword desmog and go to fowldars thread titled my desmog thread and hunker down for some lernin...remember, if you start drinkin while you're a readin, you'll have to start drinking as you start to do the work...(state dependent learning- I had friends who went to college...)
 
Recently after many years of ownership, my truck would not idle. It ran fine on the freeway or with the gas down. I checked for vac leaks, the solenoid was working. Turned out that there were two problems: carb needed a rebuild due to a lot of crud on the inside. I guess that is to be expected after 30 years. Second problem the ignition coil was on its last legs. Check for corrosion around where the wire goes into the coil. Good luck! (Btw - my issue was sudden onset no idle so it was fairly straight forward to diagnose as a clogged circuit once everything else was ruled out)
 
See image below for gaskets on EGR system.

Get these crush gaskets from Toyota, they are cheap and fairly easy to replace. NOTE: on the image below, it has them listed as the same part number, but double check at Toyota, because I think the gaskets are different from each other and therefor should have different part numbers, but I could be wrong...

You can replace them with the manifolds still on the truck.
Remove the shield under the steering rod that is bolted to the DS frame rail (3x12mm) - easiest to access the front two bolts from outside the DS wheel well, and rear from underneath the truck.
Remove the two 14mm bolts (90119-10047 in image below) that hold the cooler (25680 in image below) to the engine block - should be able to reuse 14mm bolts.
Remove nut (25601B) that holds j-pipe (25601) to the cooler - I use a plumber's wrench, it gives you more options on different angles to position the wrench on the nut- should be able to reuse nut and sleeve here.
Remove the two nuts (90179-08128) that hold the top of the j-pipe to the exhaust manifold - I would order two new nuts here (...ha, yeah, I see the joke...) from Toyota along with the gaskets.
When reinstalling, liberally apply Permatex Copper anti-sieze on the cleaned threads.

For Top gasket, it's even more straight forward...

EGR System FJ60_gaskets_labeled.webp
 
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Also, for what it is worth, if you need to get a new manifold gasket, get the FeldPro from an aftermarket Auto Parts store (like Pep Boys or Auto Zone or Advance Auto - I think I got mine from Advance Auto). It is the exact same gasket that Toyota now carries, but only costs ~$20 (it's around $50 at Toyota) and it comes with the two gaskets that go between the intake and exhaust manifold (where the heat riser shield is).
And before you pull the manifolds to replace the gasket, find a machine shop that can plane the manifold mating surface to the head. They need to be planed together as an assembly. Get suggestions from other MUDers on a shop in your area (go to the ClubHouse section of the the MUD site and post there for ideas or see the list of recommended mechanics here in the 60s section).
 
The insulator gasket is only available through Toyota (it has the gaskets bonded to the insulator/heat shield assembly (they look kinda like post-modern bat wings made from scrap metal...art...) that sits between the top of the intake manifold and the bottom of the carb. The skinny pipe that comes off it is commonly a source for leaks, because the insulator material around it cracks. If that pipe wiggles even just a little, probably a leak there. Test with the carb spray method, but to fix it you're gonna need a whole, new baseplate insulator assembly. Run around $150 from Toyota, but if you send @beno a PM, you should get a better price.
 
I know that the VCV has multiple lines that come off and go to Dizzy, PCV, Air Cleaner and then I believe the fourth is a loop back to itself. @FJ40Jim will be able to tell you exactly what goes where if you are unable to figure it out yourself. There is a vacuum diagram floating around somewhere here, also check my sig for diagnostic manuals as I know it is in there somewhere.
 
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