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- #241
what is this?
Getting it road worthy. Whats wrong with the carb. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter LAgallegos
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micruz60
Unleaded Regular
Looks like our 'friend' rusty... Common hole thru rear deck behind wheel. Easy fix.
Aand that would be be the fuel vapor separator, links into the top of the charcoal canister under hood and can be clogged up, resulting in fuel smells in the cab.
Aand that would be be the fuel vapor separator, links into the top of the charcoal canister under hood and can be clogged up, resulting in fuel smells in the cab.
- Thread starter
- #243
Okay i was thinking it was something like that. what do I need to disconnect when I drop the tank? (in reference to the vapor separator)
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who needs a clutch, just park on a hill and don't come to a complete stop
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The tank gets disconnected from underneath. Remove the shield from under the filler neck and you'll see where Toyota conveniently brought all the fill/vent hoses together in one spot.
The fuel feed/return lines to the engine disconnect at the front corner of the tank.
The fuel ending unit is accessed by rolling up rear carpet, remove access plate in floor, disconnect wires on top of sender.
The fuel feed/return lines to the engine disconnect at the front corner of the tank.
The fuel ending unit is accessed by rolling up rear carpet, remove access plate in floor, disconnect wires on top of sender.
There is a picture drawn out in a .pdf file ('Gas Tank Install') at this site:
http://hugh4prez.nate-online.com/Cruiser and M416 Manuals/
might also help you conceptualize how the tank is attached...
Oh,...it uploaded...see .pdf attached
http://hugh4prez.nate-online.com/Cruiser and M416 Manuals/
might also help you conceptualize how the tank is attached...
Oh,...it uploaded...see .pdf attached
- Thread starter
- #247
Probably a dumb idea, could I drop the cross member with the spare tire still on?
- Thread starter
- #248
Also is there anyway to change the name of this thread to make it just a general build thread?
- Thread starter
- #249
The bolts that attached the spare tire cross member to the car are incredibly rusted. I already broke a piece of my ratchet cranking on the the bloody thing. Ive bathed it blaster for a couple days, tried heating it up, and hitting it with a hammer. Any other meatheadsI should try?
Or just keep hitting it till something falls off lol
If you broke your ratchet before you broke the bolt, then start with buying a better ratchet!
Yeah, I usually opt for a breaker bar when you've got to hit the end with a hammer to persuade a stubborn bolt off:
As a rule, I don't hit ratchets with a hammer...even the good ones...but I will slide a hollow pipe over the end of either a ratchet or breaker bar to get more leverage.
If you shop the day after x-mas you can usually find some good deals on tool sets...like say Craftsman? Craftsman (Sears) used to warranty their tools for life (not the ratchet type tools, tho, I think)...
As a rule, I don't hit ratchets with a hammer...even the good ones...but I will slide a hollow pipe over the end of either a ratchet or breaker bar to get more leverage.
If you shop the day after x-mas you can usually find some good deals on tool sets...like say Craftsman? Craftsman (Sears) used to warranty their tools for life (not the ratchet type tools, tho, I think)...
So just to make we're on the same page, you're sliding the Toyota tool with the hook on the end of it through the hole in the body of the vehicle (above the center of the rear bumper), mating it with the slot in the tire carrier mechanism and then using the arm tool to rotate the thing counter clockwise...
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Did you ever get these screws out? Keep soaking them in PB Blaster penetrating oil...
Another thing you can do is to cut a single slot into the head, either with a hack saw or a disc grinder (or dremel if you have one), then use a single slot screw driver head (on a power tool, preferably) to try and back it out...
If that doesn't work, you could move on to using an extractor bit on a drill. If you go to Home Depot or the likes, you will find reverse thread extractors...first drill a hole down the center of the screw head, then use the right size extractor to back out the bolt (it grabs the sidewalls of the holes you just drilled).
I guess the very last resort would be to drill the entire screw out, but then you will have to retap the hole in the body of the vehicle since it will ruin the threads. Or you could cut/rip out the plastic (an act of true desperation) and then get some vice grips on the head of the screw...
EDIT: If you were able to get one of the other plastic guards off of another door, check to see if those screws screw into threaded holes in the metal of the vehicle body or if there are some sort of inserts/tabs that have threads, and then the inserts/tabs are pressed into unthreaded holes in the body...I can't remember which way it is, but if there are inserts/tabs, then if you ruin the threads getting it out, you should still be able to replace with new ones easy enough...
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The fun never ends.
Eventually by your own efforts you can get these old beasts to work quite well. As long as you are doing the work it's even affordable to fix them up, to a point.
Slow Left certainly deserves a great deal of gratitude for extending such a helping hand :Bravo
Eventually by your own efforts you can get these old beasts to work quite well. As long as you are doing the work it's even affordable to fix them up, to a point.
Slow Left certainly deserves a great deal of gratitude for extending such a helping hand :Bravo
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The doorsill screws are selfthreaders into plastic expansion nuts. A wrong handed drill bit will either drill off the head or back out the screw. Either way, the sill is off and screws can be replaced w/ SS.
Cheers, SmartyPants! Yeah, I try to help out when I can...that's why I appreciate MUD too! I also find that helping others solve problems where I can helps me reset my state of mind for solving problems I'm working on...since if I can articulate the logic to someone else, then that puts me in the right procedural state of mind for tackling the uncertainty of problems that I'm working on...kind of a win win...
How's the fishing season finishing out up there in ND? Catch any more Jeeps or Geos...?
Haha, no more Trackers to pull out of the Missouri river this year, just walleye and pike.
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- #258
Sorry it's been awhile. Haven't had many chances to work on the beauty with the days getting shorter. I was trying to trace down the problem of my taillights some more the other night. It looked like i was getting power all the way to the light on one wire. Dunno if it was the right one or not. but it wouldn't light the tail when I jimmy-connected. So maybe not enough power??
I didn't touch anything up front I swear, but my dash lights and front running lights are out now. My choke/handbrake light and headlights still work. but yeah. More things went out. So maybe a short somewhere with the relay's?
Sorry I mis said-I'm Not hitting the ratchet itself. I'm hitting the bolt. I have a torque wrench that I've been using cause its got quite a bit of leverage.
Okay I don't have that nifty bar that connects into the back-side perpendicular. all I have is the bar that goes into the slot. and one that connects to that(to make it longer). And the jack of course(but thats pointless with the tire).
Okay you'll have to see the bolts but they are terrible. So bad. my frame is rusted pretty bad back there too. but I'm getting close to the grinding option. Cause they are not budging. My dad suggested heating them up and see if it expands to loosen them a little. I tried that on one and it didn't work but I'll have to give it a swing on the others.
I didn't touch anything up front I swear, but my dash lights and front running lights are out now. My choke/handbrake light and headlights still work. but yeah. More things went out. So maybe a short somewhere with the relay's?
Sorry I mis said-I'm Not hitting the ratchet itself. I'm hitting the bolt. I have a torque wrench that I've been using cause its got quite a bit of leverage.
So just to make we're on the same page, you're sliding the Toyota tool with the hook on the end of it through the hole in the body of the vehicle (above the center of the rear bumper), mating it with the slot in the tire carrier mechanism and then using the arm tool to rotate the thing counter clockwise...
Okay I don't have that nifty bar that connects into the back-side perpendicular. all I have is the bar that goes into the slot. and one that connects to that(to make it longer). And the jack of course(but thats pointless with the tire).
Okay you'll have to see the bolts but they are terrible. So bad. my frame is rusted pretty bad back there too. but I'm getting close to the grinding option. Cause they are not budging. My dad suggested heating them up and see if it expands to loosen them a little. I tried that on one and it didn't work but I'll have to give it a swing on the others.
- Thread starter
- #259
In tracing the wire I needed up having to just pull the plastic pieces. I only Broke one!!(of the screw holes) The screws went into those plastic piece like you thought. Also i found this lovely hole underneath my DS feet.
OK, so you are seeing a voltage at a wire that leads to a tail light.
What color is the wire that you said is 'hot'?
How did you measure that you were getting power...if you use the voltmeter it should show 12V and that is the right 'power'.
And when you jumped directly from the battery to the tail light, it still didn't light up...that tells me either that the bulb is bad or that ground is not being made.
Did you locate that shared ground (see wiring diagram...did we already identify this in a previous post...can't remember if it was here or a different thread...)? If you clean and refasten that ground and also test for continuity of the ground wire/route that goes from the tail light to ground to make sure that the route to ground is still conducting and making good contact...
And just so we are on the same page, can you point out on a picture and circuit diagram which one is the one you are referring to as the 'tail light"?
Were you ever able to find a copy of that Supplement FSM?
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