Gettin' my lift on. Last min details & Can anyone Help?

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If you want to cut the shackle bolts/ubolts/spring pins I've had great luck with a thin metal cutting wheel for an angle grinder. I use the 1/16" and it'll cut through a shackle pins in seconds. No need for a sawzsall. I found mine at Home Depot for a couple a bucks each.

If you're trying to reuse some of the shackle pins, try using Kroil to soak them overnite. Best penetrating oil I've found.

Good luck.
 
I did use the blades you are refering to, it is just that you cannot get them to reach all the way through on the frame pin. 4" grinder can only do so much. I think if I had a 6" if I could position it right it would be able to go through and not hit.

Thanks for the advise. I's not using any pins or shackles. But man they are just being a butt! Maybe its just me and my luck. Hopefully will be able to go at it again soon, as it rained here all day!
 
Hey Matt, I don't know how rusted the shackle bolts are but it may be easier for you to just wrench them off rather than cut them. The best way to get the spring ppin removed is to beat it out with a sledge hammer, then get on the other end with a crow bar and start to pry. BUT BUT BUT be careful, I lost a thumb nail when it slipped and slammed it between the crow bar and the wheel well. Grease up your bolts before you put them in the bushings, it helps them slide in. Yeah and go spend some money on a good sawzall and grinder....cheap tools suck, bought me a 10 dollar grinder and it lasted a year, but it was decent while it lasted.
 
89s rule said:
I did use the blades you are refering to, it is just that you cannot get them to reach all the way through on the frame pin. 4" grinder can only do so much. I think if I had a 6" if I could position it right it would be able to go through and not hit.

Thanks for the advice. I's not using any pins or shackles. But man they are just being a butt! Maybe its just me and my luck. Hopefully will be able to go at it again soon, as it rained here all day!
Click to expand...


Interesting. My bosche grinder is 4.5" and easily reaches bolts with a new cut-off wheel. Perhaps it's just that extra 1/2 inch. I don't advocate unsafe methods, but for one cut... perhaps with utmost care, removing the wheel guard, add a 4.5 in wheel, with heavy gloves, safety glasses, and *EXTREME* care, make the cut. Then go back to the 4 inch wheel/guard. Not my best thought, just a thought. However... a sawzall can be justified for remodeling jobs.... :idea:
 
yeah, did take the guard off
:( woops :) I know I know I was careful. I have some 4.5" blades comming soon I hope.

Thanks Troll I may take you up on that is worse comes to worse. Any idea on the TPI I should try to use to cut this stuff?

Metal blades range from like 14-24tpi???

Thanks again!
 
Try Lennox sawsall blades. They are specific to the thickness and type of metal you need to cut. They're the best. Can be had at Lowes.
 
I was using lennox, I remember there hacksaw blades were best when I worked at the plumbing supply. But failed to read the TPI suggestions. I went for the ones on sale :) which were the 14TPI

I got a crow bar big and little today from my parents and hope to work on it some tomm. I hope, as it is supp. to rain sat last I checked.
 
I posted pics of my rims on the site listed above. Think I got a good deal and they are different than what alot of people have out there. (Should be here early next week, they are comming from Oregon.)

Also, I have the front aparts completely. Drivers side spring is on just need to do u-bolts on that side. Need to put everything back on, on the passanger side. Hopefully the bushings on the shackle to frame connections will not give me a beast of a time.

I also found a line on a used ARB and a wilderness roof rack. Might be buying them as well. Still have to get it approved by the wife, but I think the I want to get it done b/f the new baby gets here will work. :)

Anyone know the dimensions of the endlinks I need to make? I had to cut mine off the pass and the driver is there but missing portions.
 
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Well I got the front finished (for the most part) this afternoon. Looks like I have a car with hydrolics :) Check out pics here: http://www.erskinepictures.com/ecstudents/Cruiser-lift-Progress?page=2

Everything went semi-smoothly. Still have to do the following on the front:

Attach new brake line
Get/make end links for the sway bar.
Get shocks (last thing I will order after flexing and measuring)

Next on the list is getting th rear done!! My rims are on schedule to get here on Wednesday. Have work from Thursday until Sat morning. (7 am till midnight each day) So will not get anything done unless I can jump on it early this week. Hope I can. I am thinking the rear will be easier?

It also seems as if I am finding more stuff I need to do. Next on the list is the front axle rebuild. Was thinking of getting some longfields when I do it, but only if I can get a good deal on a barely used set. Any clue as to how much $ to expect to spend on them? (Inners and longfields) 27 spline I guess? b/c of costs?

Any advise etc would be great. I was torn btwn my cruiser and David's for working on one today and decided on mine. As I need to get it finished !!!
 
It just looks like a "prerunner" setup. That's all. :D You got a good amount of progress made!
 
Well wanted to update everyone. Cruiser has a good days worth of work left (At my pace at least) New rear springs are hung and axle just needs to be let down and mounted up. The brake lines, sway bar connections, and order shocks.
Having #2 girl (Aubrey) on the 1st, has put a kink in completion for now, but hopefully will be able to get some time soon especially if it will warm up!!!

Only issue I see slowing me down is getting the old brake lines off from the frame mount. They are rather rusty. I got a friend to loan me a set of wrenches made for this kind of thing. (They almost make an C shape?) If they dont work I guess vise grips are on call. :rolleyes:

Now have some lightforce 240 blitz lights (Yes the huge ones) at the house and a lockright locker on the way here. Both of which may or may not make it onto the 62. (Might end up just selling them.) As I have been considering buying a 40 to keep other mods to the 62 to a min. I just dont want to have to spend another $1K+ on it (Longs/inners, gears, etc) to get it to the next level.

So its on its way, just been slowed a little. I am ready to get this thing on the road!!!! And see what it can do. As well as hear the wife complain about trying to get up in it :)
 
matt what would you need the (longs/inners) for; aren't you just going to run 33's?

If I am not mistaken the 62 front axle is quite beefier than the 40's which comenly break birfs....... I think you can run 35 or 37 on 62 axles without problem.
 
beaufort-fj60 said:
are the front shackles stock length? looks good
Click to expand...

No they are lift shackles. My front springs are 2.5" and rears 4" fronts were set up to be run with a SR, but I didnt wanna go that route. I have shimmed the front and hope it should be good to go.

ClemsonCruiser said:
matt what would you need the (longs/inners) for; aren't you just going to run 33's?
Click to expand...

I was thinking of running 35's. And would at a min have to regear. Which could run over $1K by itself after gears, install kits, and install. (Can anyone in our club set-up gears, etc?)
I need to do a front axle rebuild anyways so figured I would upgrade to longs while I was in there and was under the impression that 35's were the limit of stock components?

Basically I need to just get it back on the road, with the 33's and see how I like it. I probably should just save my $ and get protection with it and have some $ leftover. (Front and rear bumpers and sliders. Which I would all get made except the front IF I can find an ARB cheap.) Instead of looking at a 40 project. Although those are sweet and spring and summer are on thier way!!! :)

Any advice would be great here, just be honest with me. When I get to working on the 62 I always think hey, I could do this while I'm in there or this, etc. Which can be good or bad depending on what kind of pickle I get myself into.
 
what kind of wheeling do you want to get into, I think 33's and a locker in the rear will take you just about any where you want to go, unless you are looking to run the hardest of trails. and yeah with 35's regearing would be a good idea, even with the 33's I run it would be nice, the gearing really isn't a problem until I hit the steep mountain rodes, then the 62 becomes a dog, but it may be the autotrannys fault as much as the gearing........

I need to do some reach search on the 62 axles, like i siad it seems I remember reading that the 62 axles could handle larger tires the the late 40 axles......... not sure though and since I plan on doing 35's 37's it would be good to know :D
 
I think most of what the club does is what I would like to be able to do. I am sure eventually I would want to do more.

May be able to fit 35's now, but if not a 1" BL should take care of any rubbing issues.
Tires arent really an issue since I find deals on them constantly. An example is 50% 35's for $200. Anyways even without the longs:
Gears seems to be the biggest issue. $200 for gears + $100 for install kit + 100-200 for installation = $500 for one axle! x2 = $1K!! Urgghhh

- How much can you sell a stock fj62 3rd for? D. Dearborn @ Urban LC had a set of 3rds for a 62, but they were $1300 with an ARB and a lockright. Which goes back to the longs if the front is locked. As well as a compressor. :rolleyes:

Any advice on any of this? From the 40 idea. To what parts I really need, etc? I think at this point I am fine with the 33's until I drive it awhile and get used to the new lift etc.
 
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