Builds Gen. Waverly

[majdomo]

Careful, talk like that may get you ostracized. Working on old vehicles is often frustrating, but some of the stuff I've ran into on my 62 seriously gave me pause to wonder if all the talk about how easy to work on these trucks are is some sort of conspiracy.

This has been frustrating for sure. My personal thought is the 62 is a weird transitional bird. I would guess the FZJ80 is probably the last best example of old-school Toyota engineering - peak Japan, mostly over engineered to a fault, etc. Even then there are some things I wouldn't (and didn't) touch on my 80. Never owned a 100, but the engine cover alone gives me pause on self-repairability.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Has nothing to do with transmission . Look it up before its to late maybe po did it already.

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

Here is a pick of some of the hoses that are NLA.
That you can substitute with aftermarket.

 

[RevISK]

I was fortunate in that the PO did the oil galley plug on my 40.

The PO did NOT do it on my 62 however…

 

[DeepBarney]

This has been frustrating for sure. My personal thought is the 62 is a weird transitional bird. I would guess the FZJ80 is probably the last best example of old-school Toyota engineering - peak Japan, mostly over engineered to a fault, etc. Even then there are some things I wouldn't (and didn't) touch on my 80. Never owned a 100, but the engine cover alone gives me pause on self-repairability.

Yeah, I'll grant that a lot of it is due to the transitional/stop gap nature of the 62 series. Many other vehicles of that vintage, which were also 60's era tech desperately trying to be kept DOT and EPA compliant, are easier to deal with in my experience. They weren't as long for this world, but they also had the courtesy to turn into irredeemable s*** heaps so that I wouldn't be tempted to try and keep working on them. Haha

Anyways I'll quit derailing the thread now.

 

[majdomo]

Yeah, I'll grant that a lot of it is due to the transitional/stop gap nature of the 62 series. Many other vehicles of that vintage, which were also 60's era tech desperately trying to be kept DOT and EPA compliant, are easier to deal with in my experience. They weren't as long for this world, but they also had the courtesy to turn into irredeemable s*** heaps so that I wouldn't be tempted to try and keep working on them. Haha

Anyways I'll quit derailing the thread now.

I'm trying to daily the 62, so not a total derailment, the pros and cons are important if someone else later wants to do the same thing if only to know what they are getting into. Like anything you gotta pay to play. But views like this are their own reward. Yeah, that's what I drive to work every day. Rough life.

 

[majdomo]

I was fortunate in that the PO did the oil galley plug on my 40.

The PO did NOT do it on my 62 however…

Has nothing to do with transmission . Look it up before its to late maybe po did it already.

I just checked right above #5, and mine has a plug sticking out of it with a hex socket of some kind. It looks pretty ok. Is that what is supposed to be there?

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Yep factory would just be s knock in plug so you should be good

 

[majdomo]

Yep factory would just be s knock in plug so you should be good

Thank you sir!

 

[RevISK]

I just checked right above #5, and mine has a plug sticking out of it with a hex socket of some kind. It looks pretty ok. Is that what is supposed to be there?

You sir, are stoked.

 

[majdomo]

Just about done, stabbed the distributor today and finished replacing almost all the hoses I could find, both OEM and aftermarket. Also replaced all the belts, reinstalled the shroud and fan (that sucked), and chased down coolant leaks as they came up.

I didn't get a ton of photos, but here was one that I thought would be good tech down the road. I was able to find Gates parts numbers for just about every formed hose on the rig, but the one that wasn't super clear was how to replace the formed hoses for the rear heater closest to the passenger frame rail. Gates 19038 provides both the bent parts and a straight run for the short rear vertical heater hose piece coming off the U-shaped metal hose, near the firewall and close to the passenger wheel well.

Some photos. My hoses were original and very, very spongy and soft:

These worked great, but I tried using some of the OEM clamps that were a size too big and they definitely leaked, ended up replacing them with the old worm band clamps and getting the ol' coolant bath under the rig while trying to replace them.

Everything else is buttoned up. Haven't fired it up yet, ran out of daylight but it's all ready to go with coolant. Will let it sit overnight to make sure there aren't any more leaks.

 

[RevISK]

Just about done, stabbed the distributor today and finished replacing almost all the hoses I could find, both OEM and aftermarket. Also replaced all the belts, reinstalled the shroud and fan (that sucked), and chased down coolant leaks as they came up.

I didn't get a ton of photos, but here was one that I thought would be good tech down the road. I was able to find Gates parts numbers for just about every formed hose on the rig, but the one that wasn't super clear was how to replace the formed hoses for the rear heater closest to the passenger frame rail. Gates 19038 provides both the bent parts and a straight run for the short rear vertical heater hose piece coming off the U-shaped metal hose, near the firewall and close to the passenger wheel well.

Some photos. My hoses were original and very, very spongy and soft:

View attachment 3566408

View attachment 3566407

These worked great, but I tried using some of the OEM clamps that were a size too big and they definitely leaked, ended up replacing them with the old worm band clamps and getting the ol' coolant bath under the rig while trying to replace them.

Everything else is buttoned up. Haven't fired it up yet, ran out of daylight but it's all ready to go with coolant. Will let it sit overnight to make sure there aren't any more leaks.

This great info, thanks for posting.
I picked a sack of City Racer OE style clamps of various sizes. They seem to be superior in many ways to regular old worm clamps.

 

[majdomo]

This great info, thanks for posting.
I picked a sack of City Racer OE style clamps of various sizes. They seem to be superior in many ways to regular old worm clamps.

The OE clamps are much better, and I used those mostly throughout, but I only had the slightly too big 25mm clamps for the 5/8 ID runs around the valve cover and at the heater valve. There is a one-size-down 22mm / 1/2" ID clamp that l didn't get from the dealer in my smalls order. I was able to salvage a couple old ones for that 1/2" vertical piece near the firewall, and they are a good, tight fit on the hose.

 

[RevISK]

22mm is what I’ve been using on 5/8” I believe.

 

[majdomo]

Same leak came up again overnight, replaced the clamp with another that I had on the bench and all is fine. Rig is timed, burped, and all put back together ready to roll for DD duty tomorrow.

 

[majdomo]

Just kidding - after a drive on the freeway yesterday afternoon, lots of oil leaking from the f'n crank seal and HB. Looks like my speedi-sleeve fix didn't work or the aftermarket crank seal is just a little too big. Either way, it's coming apart again. Plus, the rest of the clamps that I hadn't replaced started leaking in the rear.

Luckily was able to find a new harmonic balancer on Rockauto, and will order OEM front timing cover gasket and crank seal, it'll all be here by end of the week. What a pain.

 

[majdomo]

Was able to work from home today, and get after replacing the HB and front crank seal. The second time around is a lot less cleaning and pulling and whatnot, so this went way faster. Not quite done but should be after a few more hours' work. I also got after the small O-ring on the power steering reservoir, which has been on my list for a long time. I've ordered this part from the dealer twice now, and twice they have sent me a bag that has the part number I ordered, the description on the tag of "O-ring," and...a cotter pin in the bag. Will go to Ace and get something that fits tomorrow.

Here's the old HB with the speedi-sleeve. Note the witness marks on the sleeve are fine, so this just led me to believe that the aftermarket crank seal was just a smidge too big, which it was upon measurement. About 0.5mm too big, in fact, plenty of room to make a mess.

FedEx guy showed up with the new HB, which was billed as an ATP 102088. This is the box that arrived, score!! Hecho en Australia!

And here's what was in the box, pretty funny. The global supply chain wins again.

Anyway, it's a really nice part and fits great. Will hang on to the old HB as a spare, since they are damn near impossible to find.

Also ordered the 22mm clamps from the dealer for the rear heater lines. Got 8 of them at a heart-stopping $3.50 EACH. The 25mm ones are $0.50. Thanks Toyota!

 

[majdomo]

Done. Couple of notes:

- Toyota p/n 96711-19013 corresponds to the power steering reservoir O-ring, however they will send you a little cotter pin instead. I did this twice. The correct size O-ring is a 12mm ID,16mm OD, 2mm width O-ring from the hardware store. This fit great, no leaks so far. Many trips to Ace were made to bring you this intelligence.
- New harmonic balancer is great. Use the OEM crank seal come hell or high water, it's worth the $25 or whatever it costs to avoid a redo. Weird as I bought a Mahle aftermarket kit and this was the one that leaked. OEM Toyota p/n is 90311-45008.
- The 22mm clamps STILL leaked in the back. Ended up using at least 1 stupid worm gear clamp, we'll see if the rest of them stick.
- Buy a big-a$$ torque wrench. I managed to break a rental one from O'Reilly giving it the bean. Did not help that the wrench head was falling apart out of the box, lucky I didn't get hurt. Autozone has no idea what a torque wrench is, fml. Harbor Freight 300 ft-lb 3/4" drive is now in the garage.

That's it for now. Will continue to watch the rear main seal, guessing that will be either a project or a shop at some point, we'll see. Next project is mounting my 2M ham radio along with an antenna mount.

 

[majdomo]

Mounted and powered, no antenna yet. Working on that next. Prob a lip mount on the rear hatch. This radio is 2M only, no internal fan, mil spec or close to it. Dates to the early 90s.

 

[majdomo]

Here we go - had some time to get after the dash pad replacement today. This was definitely a 1 job that took a lot longer than it needed to, simply because I was working from home and kept getting interrupted by stuff like emails, approvals, calls, etc... so annoying to do work when you're working from home...

It was basically a lot of screws and a few nuts and a few bolts, some clips, but seriously nothing major. This is one of the best documented procedures in the FSM. The rear of the truck makes a great spot to organize your dash when it's all apart. I also cleaned up all the little contacts on the back of the gas gauge, temp gauge, etc. to see if I can clear up the shared ground issue between the gas and temp gauges.

The old pad on the bench. I guess it wasn't that horrible, but since you can still get this part new, figured it would be best to replace. The only complication I hit was the ears on the passenger side vent both busted off as I was removing the two nuts that hold it to the old pad. Not a huge issue, since there was enough left for the nuts to grip onto and the vent itself is sandwiched between the air duct and the dash pad, so as long as someone isn't abusing it, there should be no problems.

And what it looks like when torn down. The FSM says to pull the steering wheel and column, but it is absolutely not necessary.

The final product. Looks great and fitment is perfect as expected. Also repositioned my ham radio, but not sure if I like it where it's at, so it may move again.

That's it for now. Next project is the rear bumper and still need an antenna for the radio, maybe tomorrow if I can get over to HRO.