Builds Gen. Waverly (1 Viewer)

[majdomo]

Oil pan is back on, with the assistance from the snap-ups. The way I did it, YMMV:
- Clean block surface and oil pan arch channels well, removing any old silicone or gasket material
- Install snap-ups. I used 8, 4 on the second to last holes on each side, and 4 about 2 holes toward the middle from those.
- FIPG around the first bolt hole (surround it) and on the arch, on the gasket surface that will mate to the block
- Install gasket through snap-ups, mating up the FIPG to the block / arch surface. Let this set for 5-10 minutes.
- FIPG on the pan as it sits on the bench, again in the same location as where you put the FIPG on the gasket.
- Install pan through the snap-ups and start installing bolts. This will take a little more force than just setting it on the gasket, since it's a snug fit.
- Snug up all bolts finger-tight, removing snap-ups as you go.
- Torque evenly to spec, 6 ft lbs / 72 in-lbs. I think I went around 3 times.

I also found a brand new OEM radiator cap when cleaning up the bench, so swapped out the aftermarket one mainly for looks. Found a very small intermittent radiator hose leak as well, right on the upper rad hose at the clamp. It's aftermarket, so will be changing that out soon. It's always something.

However, drove it on the freeway this afternoon and shifts are much smoother than they were before. It took a LOT of ATF for the Rodney flush, so it got kind of expensive, but definitely worth it for the peace of mind.

Next project - rad hoses and maybe a full cooling system baseline. I have a new fan clutch on the shelf ready to go, along with the side cover gasket and an alternator rebuild.

 

[majdomo]

Trip down to Orange County for the first time in the 62, in the rain. Took a picture of the rig in the same Carl's Jr. parking lot where I first saw this truck 34 years ago. Kids were not impressed

Getting a low bass wwwaaawwwAAAAwwwwaaa on the freeway above 50 mph and wondering if I need to get the tires rebalanced and checked to see if they are true. One of the rear wheels was all bent, and so I swapped it with the spare, but think it would be best to get them all checked. If I can get that item fixed, I think this truck is home free to daily for a while and fix little things as I go.

I'm also getting the always entertaining bad shared ground between the gas and temp gauges. I filled the tank earlier today and it kept pegging the fuel on the F, then dropping down to the 4/4 mark... and at the same time the temp gauge would rise up above to the almost 2/3 mark, then drop right back down just as quickly. Note that this was happening at the same time, and once the fuel had gone down some (didn't take long, lol) the temp gauge just sat below the halfway mark as per usual and normal. So I have that to look forward to sometime, maybe tomorrow.

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

Looks great!
The fuel and temp gauge is a common thing that happens with 62's.
there is a fix for it. if you do a search.

 

[majdomo]

Looks great!
The fuel and temp gauge is a common thing that happens with 62's.
there is a fix for it. if you do a search.

Yeah, it’s an easy one, just need to pull the cluster and clean up the ground connections on the back of the gauges. That bezel is super crispy and I want to take my time with it.

 

[majdomo]

So this wheel had no balancing weights on it before

Other than a very frustrating visit to one tire store, this was an easy fix that cleaned up a portion of the vibration. The tech said this wheel is probably shot, however, as it was still wobbling even with what looks like 3lbs of weight on one side. It's not supposed to ride like a Cadillac, but there is still improvement to go. Will shop for new wheels, adding to the list.

 

[majdomo]

EAST COAST RIGS, GAAHHHHH!!!

That's a pinhole in the rear brake line that crosses over from the passenger T junction to the driver's side, right where there used to be a very rusty brake line holder. Fortunately this happened when I was just moving the rig from the driveway to the street, suddenly the brake pedal goes to the floor with a large "psshhhhhh" sound from the back. Ugh!!!

New line from Autozone was a PAJ-351 off the rack Japanese hard brake line stick, cost like $9 an a half hour of swearing and wearing out my thumbs bending into shape. It's a little too long, but some creative kinks made it work.

-assisted brake bleed and all was fine, but really screwed with my Saturday. Waiting on parts from Amayama to get started on the next big project of cooling system baseline, alternator / smog pump rebuilds, and replacement of the timing cover and pushrod cover gaskets.

Also have an O/D computer replacement on the way, since the AT temp light has been coming on at startup and staying on, intermittently. Fluid levels are good and the trans is shifting and locking up just fine. According to the FSM schematic, the O/D computer is just a controller for the idiot light, and it was cheap to just swap out so throwing parts at the problem.

Officially looking for a new patina FJ40 project...

 

[majdomo]

New wheel replaced the gimpy spare ahead of an impromptu road trip to the Central Valley. Rig did great going north on the grapevine. More photos as we go…

 

[majdomo]

Visited Famoso Dragstrip on the way up, because roadkill

 

[majdomo]

And home with very little drama. Oil leak off the side cover is getting worse, blew a lot of oil down the side of the block and off the transmission to the point where it would leave a few drops every time I stopped for gas or a bio break. Level is fine, though. Had a weird electrical issue yesterday, where the power cut for half a second as I was making a slow U-turn and then came back, but it didn't happen again and all was fine coming home.

Also, absolutely zero issues with the transmission as I drove up the Grapevine (slowly). Kept it in third most of the way up the hill, and no issues. I think the O/D computer was the culprit on the idiot light, but adding the external cooler, flush, and new sensor were all helpful.

All in a great trip. This is the furthest I've driven it all in one go, building more trust in the truck. Some more photos from the road, somewhere near Pixley, CA.

Victory photo at the top of the hill heading south.

 

[majdomo]

Well, that was a rough day. Thought hey, I'll just pull that cover and do the gasket, get to the rest later. Let's start at the end...there is so much trash in there that it was shocking the oil pressure gauge even registered something.

But to get to this point, I had to pull the distributor, the smog pump, the alternator, the compressor and the compressor bracket. I thought it would be a nightmare and it was. The last bolt on the alternator had fused itself to the body, and took about 2 hours of really difficult hammering to get it out. However, both that and the smog pump are going over to B-Z this week for a rebuild. Ain't f*cking around any more.

In the meantime, I've drained the coolant and will get after the cooling system baseline while everything's apart. I also have a water pump, fan clutch, and timing cover kit to install.

Oh, and as an added bonus, I managed to mangle the distributor adjustor. That thing did not want to come out, ended up getting the BFH going and paid the price. I don't know if I need to replace it now, or if it'll be ok.. most likely will just replace it. Ugh.

Highs and lows with this thing. Miller Lite and the rest of the game now, doesn't look like I've missed much.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Well, that was a rough day. Thought hey, I'll just pull that cover and do the gasket, get to the rest later. Let's start at the end...there is so much trash in there that it was shocking the oil pressure gauge even registered something.

View attachment 3556310

View attachment 3556314

But to get to this point, I had to pull the distributor, the smog pump, the alternator, the compressor and the compressor bracket. I thought it would be a nightmare and it was. The last bolt on the alternator had fused itself to the body, and took about 2 hours of really difficult hammering to get it out. However, both that and the smog pump are going over to B-Z this week for a rebuild. Ain't f*cking around any more.

View attachment 3556326

View attachment 3556329
In the meantime, I've drained the coolant and will get after the cooling system baseline while everything's apart. I also have a water pump, fan clutch, and timing cover kit to install.

Oh, and as an added bonus, I managed to mangle the distributor adjustor. That thing did not want to come out, ended up getting the BFH going and paid the price. I don't know if I need to replace it now, or if it'll be ok.. most likely will just replace it. Ugh.

View attachment 3556335

Highs and lows with this thing. Miller Lite and the rest of the game now, doesn't look like I've missed much.

.



that is the lock down tab John , it needs to all be there and intact .....there is no logical way sound avoiding this


imagine your dizzy vibrates loose now on a nice trip , then after a short amount of time you stop at a red light then take off at a normal- punch-it way


the dizzy jump up just enough to cease contact off the the helical gears and then you know what happens next right ?



.

 

[majdomo]

.



that is the lock down tab John , it needs to all be there and intact .....there is no logical way sound avoiding this


imagine your dizzy vibrates loose now on a nice trip , then after a short amount of time you stop at a red light then take off at a normal- punch-it way


the dizzy jump up just enough to cease contact off the the helical gears and then you know what happens next right ?



.

Yep. That's what I figured. False economy to not replace. Blah.

 

[majdomo]

Smog pump and alternator dropped off at B-Z. Said they would be ready in 3-4 HOURS, wow! Will pick them up later in the week.

Shopping for a 3FE distributor next.

 

[majdomo]

Work continues... cleaned up the garbage around the pushrods as much as I could, along with cleaning the block surface to prep for the gasket. Also noticed that the backside of my radiator was wet from some small pinhole leaks, so ended up getting a Mishimoto rad from Amazon after reading horror stories about the CSF 2708 mixing coolant and ATF, shipping issues / damage, etc.

I wish I could wait for a Ron Davis but I need to get this back on the road. Considered rebuilding the original one, have a good radiator shop who can do it. Burbank Radiator built up the one in my 2002 from multiple sources - bottom tank from one rad, top tank from another, new 3 row core from a local shop, and it works great. However, no idea on lead time and the old one has some tank dents, will just hold on to it for later. Will also be checking and re-checking grounds to make sure they are all up to par, to avoid any dreaded electrolysis issues.

Crank holder tool thing is on the way, ordered some smalls from the dealer that I missed from Partsouq / Amayama, next up is swapping out hoses and getting over to @Deathvalleypaul on Saturday to pick up a distributor.

 

[majdomo]

More done. Looks like my "original" radiator ended up being a CSF, no idea what vintage this is though.

Ready for the big crank bolt pull tomorrow. Water pump was wet around the weep hole, all of these hoses are getting replaced with OEM hoses and clamps. Also going to get some new 5/8 Gates heater hose line for the straight runs at the firewall, to / from the rear heater and oil cooler. Also realized that the engine mounts are very accessible right now, but want to get back on the road.. maybe later.

 

[majdomo]

Stupid question but is this normal?

EDIT - just gonna sleeve this and move on. Woot!

 

[majdomo]

Good progress today, lots of parts back on the rig and hoping to be done with everything as far as I can by eod tomorrow. Finding that several of the hoses on the rear part of the heating system are NLA, which is a bummer. I may be able to get away with using some straight runs on a number of the hoses that don't have tight bends, but some of them are pretty tight and a straight run bent won't work. Thinking about it tonight, may place an order to Partsouq for the ones I can get and go from there.

Adventures with the Speedi-sleeve today! Used a little shmear of FIPG as the "non-hardening sealant" before hammering this home. The reason for the groove looks like it was due to the little spring that sits just inside of the crank seal, which was exposed after a chunk of the seal went missing. The seal was so old that it literally crumbled as we removed it from the timing cover.

And here's the unit and installed in case you need it, bought from O'Reilly online at 9am and it was in the store by 11:30a. If it leaks, well... better than spending upwards of $300 for a new one, at least for now. I ended up needing to use my 46mm socket to drive it the rest of the way down to cover up the score and set it far enough on the shaft to ensure that the seal didn't ride on the edge of the sleeve. This went straight on without a hitch, but tearing away the flange was kind of a pain in the a$$.

Reinstalled the crank bolt, here's the holder tool that I bought off Amazon for this job. Used a couple of the pulley bolts put into two holes on the HB. Skipping one and positioning it just so made it so that I didn't need to grind on the tool to get it to fit, was able to do so both on removal and install. Will be good to have this on the shelf if needed.

Also finished installing new side cover gasket, new water hoses on the front end (mostly formed OEM), new Aisin water pump, reinstalled A/C compressor and bracket, idler pulleys, new Aisin fan clutch, and way more cleaning that I care to mention. Pulled, cleaned, reassembled and reinstalled oil cooler with new gasket, O-rings, crush washers, and new hoses, hoping that fixes my low oil pressure readings. All that's left is the radiator, alternator, smog pump, belts, fan / shroud, and distributor once received.

Similar baselining jobs on the FZJ80 and FJ40 took way less time than this has. It just seems like the design of the 3FE is such a Frankenstein of 2F plus EFI, and bolted on smog and other stuff. The clean sheet redesign of the 1FZ-FE has its own issues (see: PHH and associated hard line, wtf??), but mostly it was easier to work on the accessories than this is. Plus, I've never seen gaskets this ossified before - the one on the oil cooler took over an hour to fully clean off. Ugh.

 

[DeepBarney]

Good progress today, lots of parts back on the rig and hoping to be done with everything as far as I can by eod tomorrow. Finding that several of the hoses on the rear part of the heating system are NLA, which is a bummer. I may be able to get away with using some straight runs on a number of the hoses that don't have tight bends, but some of them are pretty tight and a straight run bent won't work. Thinking about it tonight, may place an order to Partsouq for the ones I can get and go from there.

Adventures with the Speedi-sleeve today! Used a little shmear of FIPG as the "non-hardening sealant" before hammering this home. The reason for the groove looks like it was due to the little spring that sits just inside of the crank seal, which was exposed after a chunk of the seal went missing. The seal was so old that it literally crumbled as we removed it from the timing cover.

View attachment 3561209

And here's the unit and installed in case you need it, bought from O'Reilly online at 9am and it was in the store by 11:30a. If it leaks, well... better than spending upwards of $300 for a new one, at least for now. I ended up needing to use my 46mm socket to drive it the rest of the way down to cover up the score and set it far enough on the shaft to ensure that the seal didn't ride on the edge of the sleeve. This went straight on without a hitch, but tearing away the flange was kind of a pain in the a$$.

View attachment 3561210

Reinstalled the crank bolt, here's the holder tool that I bought off Amazon for this job. Used a couple of the pulley bolts put into two holes on the HB. Skipping one and positioning it just so made it so that I didn't need to grind on the tool to get it to fit, was able to do so both on removal and install. Will be good to have this on the shelf if needed.

View attachment 3561218

Also finished installing new side cover gasket, new water hoses on the front end (mostly formed OEM), new Aisin water pump, reinstalled A/C compressor and bracket, idler pulleys, new Aisin fan clutch, and way more cleaning that I care to mention. Pulled, cleaned, reassembled and reinstalled oil cooler with new gasket, O-rings, crush washers, and new hoses, hoping that fixes my low oil pressure readings. All that's left is the radiator, alternator, smog pump, belts, fan / shroud, and distributor once received.

Similar baselining jobs on the FZJ80 and FJ40 took way less time than this has. It just seems like the design of the 3FE is such a Frankenstein of 2F plus EFI, and bolted on smog and other stuff. The clean sheet redesign of the 1FZ-FE has its own issues (see: PHH and associated hard line, wtf??), but mostly it was easier to work on the accessories than this is. Plus, I've never seen gaskets this ossified before - the one on the oil cooler took over an hour to fully clean off. Ugh.

Careful, talk like that may get you ostracized. Working on old vehicles is often frustrating, but some of the stuff I've ran into on my 62 seriously gave me pause to wonder if all the talk about how easy to work on these trucks are is some sort of conspiracy.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Have you done the oil gallery plug fix? If you don't know what it is it's in the far section.

 

[majdomo]

Have you done the oil gallery plug fix? If you don't know what it is it's in the far section.

I haven't. From what I recall from my 40, it requires pulling the trans, but maybe it's different on the 62, will take a look.

FWIW there is still a tiny amount of oil coming off the bottom of the transmission. PO evidently replaced the RMS a long time ago, and if the front crank seal is any indication, the rear main probably needs replacement too. And if I'm pulling the trans, that opens a whole other line of thought about replacing with a 5-speed, rebuilding the transfer case, and so on...



EDIT - looks like this has nothing to do with pulling the trans. Will continue to research.