- Thread starter
- #181
More glamour shots including some photos of the rear shocks. Makes everything else under there look like trash..
Builds Gen. Waverly
- Thread starter majdomo
- Start date
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Did you order something specific off the Wood's website or did you call and order to a custom spec?
- Thread starter
- #183
I used their online form. Wood's puts together a set of general spec's for conventional rear LC driveshafts, but then you need to provide them with a flange-to-flange length, bolt pattern at both ends, and bolt hole size at both ends. There are also a couple of options of joint types and wall thicknesses. I just went with as close to stock replacement as they have, but I'd say that these U-joints are probably much easier to repair than Toyota OEM.
Before I pulled the original one from the rig, I got lazy and called them to see if there was just one set of specs for the 62, but unfortunately there just isn't and to their credit they really prompted me to pull it and measure properly. Perfect fitment as you can see.
There are a TON of options on their site, though. And it looks like they can build just about anything you could want for any application.
RevISK
SILVER Star
Very good information as I’m having driveshaft woes on my 62.
May I be so bold as to ask what this set you back?
- Thread starter
- #185
$450ish including the ride. Not super cheap but reasonable given the quality, imo. Repair was estimated at a little more than half that, with no guarantee that the slip yoke wasn’t already beyond repair.
RevISK
SILVER Star
that actually seems fair. Thank you again for the information.
- Thread starter
- #187
So couple of things. The new DS is awesome, and it cleared up a good amount of my rumble at speed, but it's still there off-throttle until the engine starts braking against the wheels. The rest of the time it seems a little vibrate-y at highway speeds. I purchased a new-to-me third from @65swb45 Mark earlier this week, and after cleaning off the gasket surface am planning to install that on the rig after the holiday. That should be fun. Spent a good 45 minutes hanging out with Mark in front of the shop with my son, dodging raindrops and sharing stories gathered around the Karma Cruiser... maybe once the daily driver BMW sells, we'll see...
Also looks like I have a rear output shaft seal leak, which I'll pull / replace and put some RTV on the splines to prevent the oil seeping past.
Oh and the
and I just tested positive for Covid, Merry Christmas I guess.
Also looks like I have a rear output shaft seal leak, which I'll pull / replace and put some RTV on the splines to prevent the oil seeping past.
Oh and the
and I just tested positive for Covid, Merry Christmas I guess.So couple of things. The new DS is awesome, and it cleared up a good amount of my rumble at speed, but it's still there off-throttle until the engine starts braking against the wheels. The rest of the time it seems a little vibrate-y at highway speeds. I purchased a new-to-me third from @65swb45 Mark earlier this week, and after cleaning off the gasket surface am planning to install that on the rig after the holiday. That should be fun. Spent a good 45 minutes hanging out with Mark in front of the shop with my son, dodging raindrops and sharing stories gathered around the Karma Cruiser... maybe once the daily driver BMW sells, we'll see...
Also looks like I have a rear output shaft seal leak, which I'll pull / replace and put some RTV on the splines to prevent the oil seeping past.
Oh and the
In all future 62 series and most FJ60 series order propeller shaft hardware kit , this is a hold over from the old paper parts cataloger toyota dealer general service parts assortments for the toyota dealer
Service DEPT. Use ….
90105-11H01
It’s all 3 parts for less then the cost of the bolt alone
Nut and flat washer all updated to JIS grade 11 mark head
.
- Thread starter
- #189
With some time over the holiday break, and finally feeling like I'm over the covid bug, I was able to get after installing the new rear differential in the truck yesterday and today. Everything basically went as planned, until it didn't. I was able to get the brake drums off, which have formed a nice lip around the outside edge. Had to adjust the emergency brake inward so that it'd release, but was able to get them off without much trouble. I'll have to get some new drums to go with the brake shoes I have ready on the shelf.
First some glamour shots of the new rear diff. This is actually a front FJ62 differential that Mark @65swb45 picked up on a road trip in the Karma Cruiser. This diff made the trip back from Idaho (Montana?) and was in the shop with a tag just waiting for me to call. Felt lucky to pick this up!
And here's the old one, fresh off the rig. It doesn't look awful, and truth is it probably isn't, except for one thing.
Check out the pinion flange nut at the stake point in this photo:
And compare to this one. It shouldn't move like this. It wasn't even finger tight, and the only thing holding it on was the stake.
I was able to get it all back together, with new gaskets and the axles both reinstalled, in just a few hours. Then, when I went to install the pinion spacer block, it wouldn't fit in the space between the axle ends. It wouldn't even go in - it was just too big. Doing some research in the FSM showed that back in the day, Toyota made multiple widths of the block, and that if the spacing wasn't to spec, to use a smaller or larger block. Mine happened to be 29.8mm, and measuring the space between the axle ends, there was only about 29.4mm of space. They did make a 29.4mm version of the block, along with larger and smaller sizes, but the only one that you can find new is the 29.8mm version that I have now. Damn. And the car is on jack stands in the middle of the garage so I have enough clearance to pull out the long axle shaft, with the BMW 2002 sitting outside, and I need to have it back by eod on Friday to make sure it doesn't get rained on.
Did more research on Mud, spun my wheels late last night, and started making phone calls early this morning. I started with Cruiser Outfitters, who sells an ARB kit that has different sized C-clips for the ends of the axles. More narrow C-clips will give more clearance for a larger block. This was my first preference, but after calling Cruiser Outfitters, they mentioned overnight shipping would cost well over $100 for a small $30 packet of C-clips. Ok, nix that idea.
Next was calling around to the dealer to see if the 29.0mm version of the block was in stock or could be ordered. The part number shows up in the system, but it's actually NLA. The 29.8mm one (seems to be the most common version), is still available, however. I also called a local rear end shop, who knew nothing of what I was talking about. Ugh.
Last was to start calling SOR and Mark to see if there was a used on available at either location. SOR wasn't that helpful over the phone, but offered to let me come down with my micrometer to start measuring their used stock. I then hit on the actual solution - figure out a way to take the 29.8mm block and have it machined down to 29.0mm. I called Mark to see if he had the part, and though he had one available it was his last, and figured it best to hold on to that for a ground-up diff rebuild. However, he was gracious enough to offer to create one for me, for a nominal fee along with lunch. Here's what Mark was able to create, new on left, my previous one on the right:
This was the Golden Ticket - I got it home, installed, and was able to button everything back up in a matter of an hour or so. Test drove and all was fine.
I literally woke up this morning after having spent most of the night trying to think of a solution. I finally just put my trust in the idea that everything would work out fine, and here we are. I need to do that more often, I think - just go for it and trust that things will be ok. 2023 was a tough year in a lot of weird ways, not least of which is that my sense of control over certain things has been kind of put to the test. I am finding it is ok to trust that the universe has it worked out, and to believe that things will work out the way that they are supposed to. The LC community is a great one, and enjoyed my time with Mark this afternoon chatting about cars and trading stories again. Has been a highlight of my vacation so far.
Anyway, this cleared up the last of my off-throttle rumble. I still have plenty of other noises to chase down, but that one is definitely gone!
Next up - output shaft seal leak...!
First some glamour shots of the new rear diff. This is actually a front FJ62 differential that Mark @65swb45 picked up on a road trip in the Karma Cruiser. This diff made the trip back from Idaho (Montana?) and was in the shop with a tag just waiting for me to call. Felt lucky to pick this up!
And here's the old one, fresh off the rig. It doesn't look awful, and truth is it probably isn't, except for one thing.
Check out the pinion flange nut at the stake point in this photo:
And compare to this one. It shouldn't move like this. It wasn't even finger tight, and the only thing holding it on was the stake.
I was able to get it all back together, with new gaskets and the axles both reinstalled, in just a few hours. Then, when I went to install the pinion spacer block, it wouldn't fit in the space between the axle ends. It wouldn't even go in - it was just too big. Doing some research in the FSM showed that back in the day, Toyota made multiple widths of the block, and that if the spacing wasn't to spec, to use a smaller or larger block. Mine happened to be 29.8mm, and measuring the space between the axle ends, there was only about 29.4mm of space. They did make a 29.4mm version of the block, along with larger and smaller sizes, but the only one that you can find new is the 29.8mm version that I have now. Damn. And the car is on jack stands in the middle of the garage so I have enough clearance to pull out the long axle shaft, with the BMW 2002 sitting outside, and I need to have it back by eod on Friday to make sure it doesn't get rained on.
Did more research on Mud, spun my wheels late last night, and started making phone calls early this morning. I started with Cruiser Outfitters, who sells an ARB kit that has different sized C-clips for the ends of the axles. More narrow C-clips will give more clearance for a larger block. This was my first preference, but after calling Cruiser Outfitters, they mentioned overnight shipping would cost well over $100 for a small $30 packet of C-clips. Ok, nix that idea.
Next was calling around to the dealer to see if the 29.0mm version of the block was in stock or could be ordered. The part number shows up in the system, but it's actually NLA. The 29.8mm one (seems to be the most common version), is still available, however. I also called a local rear end shop, who knew nothing of what I was talking about. Ugh.
Last was to start calling SOR and Mark to see if there was a used on available at either location. SOR wasn't that helpful over the phone, but offered to let me come down with my micrometer to start measuring their used stock. I then hit on the actual solution - figure out a way to take the 29.8mm block and have it machined down to 29.0mm. I called Mark to see if he had the part, and though he had one available it was his last, and figured it best to hold on to that for a ground-up diff rebuild. However, he was gracious enough to offer to create one for me, for a nominal fee along with lunch. Here's what Mark was able to create, new on left, my previous one on the right:
This was the Golden Ticket - I got it home, installed, and was able to button everything back up in a matter of an hour or so. Test drove and all was fine.
I literally woke up this morning after having spent most of the night trying to think of a solution. I finally just put my trust in the idea that everything would work out fine, and here we are. I need to do that more often, I think - just go for it and trust that things will be ok. 2023 was a tough year in a lot of weird ways, not least of which is that my sense of control over certain things has been kind of put to the test. I am finding it is ok to trust that the universe has it worked out, and to believe that things will work out the way that they are supposed to. The LC community is a great one, and enjoyed my time with Mark this afternoon chatting about cars and trading stories again. Has been a highlight of my vacation so far.
Anyway, this cleared up the last of my off-throttle rumble. I still have plenty of other noises to chase down, but that one is definitely gone!
Next up - output shaft seal leak...!
With some time over the holiday break, and finally feeling like I'm over the covid bug, I was able to get after installing the new rear differential in the truck yesterday and today. Everything basically went as planned, until it didn't. I was able to get the brake drums off, which have formed a nice lip around the outside edge. Had to adjust the emergency brake inward so that it'd release, but was able to get them off without much trouble. I'll have to get some new drums to go with the brake shoes I have ready on the shelf.
First some glamour shots of the new rear diff. This is actually a front FJ62 differential that Mark @65swb45 picked up on a road trip in the Karma Cruiser. This diff made the trip back from Idaho (Montana?) and was in the shop with a tag just waiting for me to call. Felt lucky to pick this up!
View attachment 3519496
And here's the old one, fresh off the rig. It doesn't look awful, and truth is it probably isn't, except for one thing.
View attachment 3519497
Check out the pinion flange nut at the stake point in this photo:
View attachment 3519498
And compare to this one. It shouldn't move like this. It wasn't even finger tight, and the only thing holding it on was the stake.
View attachment 3519499
I was able to get it all back together, with new gaskets and the axles both reinstalled, in just a few hours. Then, when I went to install the pinion spacer block, it wouldn't fit in the space between the axle ends. It wouldn't even go in - it was just too big. Doing some research in the FSM showed that back in the day, Toyota made multiple widths of the block, and that if the spacing wasn't to spec, to use a smaller or larger block. Mine happened to be 29.8mm, and measuring the space between the axle ends, there was only about 29.4mm of space. They did make a 29.4mm version of the block, along with larger and smaller sizes, but the only one that you can find new is the 29.8mm version that I have now. Damn. And the car is on jack stands in the middle of the garage so I have enough clearance to pull out the long axle shaft, with the BMW 2002 sitting outside, and I need to have it back by eod on Friday to make sure it doesn't get rained on.
Did more research on Mud, spun my wheels late last night, and started making phone calls early this morning. I started with Cruiser Outfitters, who sells an ARB kit that has different sized C-clips for the ends of the axles. More narrow C-clips will give more clearance for a larger block. This was my first preference, but after calling Cruiser Outfitters, they mentioned overnight shipping would cost well over $100 for a small $30 packet of C-clips. Ok, nix that idea.
Next was calling around to the dealer to see if the 29.0mm version of the block was in stock or could be ordered. The part number shows up in the system, but it's actually NLA. The 29.8mm one (seems to be the most common version), is still available, however. I also called a local rear end shop, who knew nothing of what I was talking about. Ugh.
Last was to start calling SOR and Mark to see if there was a used on available at either location. SOR wasn't that helpful over the phone, but offered to let me come down with my micrometer to start measuring their used stock. I then hit on the actual solution - figure out a way to take the 29.8mm block and have it machined down to 29.0mm. I called Mark to see if he had the part, and though he had one available it was his last, and figured it best to hold on to that for a ground-up diff rebuild. However, he was gracious enough to offer to create one for me, for a nominal fee along with lunch. Here's what Mark was able to create, new on left, my previous one on the right:
View attachment 3519524
This was the Golden Ticket - I got it home, installed, and was able to button everything back up in a matter of an hour or so. Test drove and all was fine.
I literally woke up this morning after having spent most of the night trying to think of a solution. I finally just put my trust in the idea that everything would work out fine, and here we are. I need to do that more often, I think - just go for it and trust that things will be ok. 2023 was a tough year in a lot of weird ways, not least of which is that my sense of control over certain things has been kind of put to the test. I am finding it is ok to trust that the universe has it worked out, and to believe that things will work out the way that they are supposed to. The LC community is a great one, and enjoyed my time with Mark this afternoon chatting about cars and trading stories again. Has been a highlight of my vacation so far.
Anyway, this cleared up the last of my off-throttle rumble. I still have plenty of other noises to chase down, but that one is definitely gone!
Next up - output shaft seal leak...!
hello John ,
What viscosity weight , what brand , and type of gear oil did you install in the Axle post repair ?
- did you update both the fill and drain plugs to the modern reassessed magnetic hex , or keep with the flat wide thin-profile hex magnet-drain only ...
- i love the whole front differential skool of thought , who would have ever thought the front Land Cruiser differential 3rd member has only pennies on the dollar wear , age , time use factor on and inside it , when you stop , think and think for a moment how many Millions , maybe ten's of millions of rotations a rear one has VS the front over a average Land Cruiser 's life time ...
- its mind boggling if you try to compare it on paper ,
- i have a formula on paper , i have pecked at for a few many years now : which 60 series Land Cruiser lock cylinder gets the most use , as in a key inserted and rotated and key removed , and which one gets the least amount , and how this relationship intern directly relates to there eventual failure and or inoperable use factor equation , requiring replacement , data spec's such as is the lock cylinder inside the vehicle or not , and did the later 62 option of a fuel door release cable and or the power actuated door locks change all the FJ60 lock cylinder's formula all together and flip it upside down completely ?
- the front and rear diff. use topic is much the same in kind , excellent choice there ,
- i bet the pinion flange does NOT need a speedy sleeve ......
......
RodrigzCrzr
SILVER Star
I did the same thing and used a front 3:73 fj60 third member for the rear end of my fj40. Gears where hardly used and all was new and tight.
Replaced with all new studs and new gasket and was good to go.
Glad you got it sorted out.
Replaced with all new studs and new gasket and was good to go.
Glad you got it sorted out.
- Thread starter
- #192
80w90 STP conventional type GL-5 gear oil, I just reused the old drain plugs as I didn't think to get the hex-type replacements. There wasn't a whole lot of swarf on the magnetic plug beyond what you'd expect to see, no big chunks at all just fine gray powder.
why conventional ?
- did you use a OEM main ring gasket , and 00295-01281 together , or another approach ?
- Thread starter
- #194
Conventional because that is what I had in stock
Used OEM gaskets front and rear with thin layer of gasket shellac. My Gasgacinch was all dried out and couldn't find it up here without going the Amazon route. Gasket shellac works great but it's a pain to remove, so I hear. Never had to do it before.
- Thread starter
- #195
Couple more items for today - replaced the rear transfer case output seal and nut. Turns out the nut on the rear flange had lost its torque as well, being held on by the stakes. Lots of crap flung all over the underside of the rig and may have been the source of the rest of my vibration on the freeway. Ok then. When replacing I made sure to line the splines on the flange and the washer with FIPG, torqued to 95 ft lbs, and waited a couple of hours for it to set up before replacing the gear oil.
Installed an external trans cooler, but haven't hooked it up yet as I ran out of daylight. Spending some time crawling under there, it looks like I need to replace both the oil pan and trans pan gaskets, which I'll order up and get in queue. Needs an oil change anyway. In the meantime, need to read up on the Rodney flush and "Party Trick".. I don't know if I have the stones for the Party Trick, as it sounds fairly high-stakes.. but if it works...
BMW 135i sold today to a young gentleman who had sold his Cayman and Tesla, and was "downsizing." That leaves the 62 as my daily, until I figure out what to do next, which may be nothing. We'll see.
Installed an external trans cooler, but haven't hooked it up yet as I ran out of daylight. Spending some time crawling under there, it looks like I need to replace both the oil pan and trans pan gaskets, which I'll order up and get in queue. Needs an oil change anyway. In the meantime, need to read up on the Rodney flush and "Party Trick".. I don't know if I have the stones for the Party Trick, as it sounds fairly high-stakes.. but if it works...
BMW 135i sold today to a young gentleman who had sold his Cayman and Tesla, and was "downsizing." That leaves the 62 as my daily, until I figure out what to do next, which may be nothing. We'll see.
Over the course of my 4+ year mini-meme service and restore shop pre-online store dayz not that long ago …
I ran the #,s in the beginning on all the phun stuff , side cover gaskets , oil pans . I never encountered a leaking ATM pan ?
I think POST FJ62 / FJ80 3FE , the whole cork gasket ideology had faded into the ashes of history ….
If you simply order and add ALL the new OEM hardware you will zap off fast with your 3/8 what-ever quicki too ….
- 3%-4% tops to your over all parts budget
If you factor in the B/S the cleaning all fossilized age and time grime VS , ripping open parts bags ….
- the cost to B/S ratio is very apparent even to todays non-believers …
- now …
- factor in the fact you have dry , sharp , and most important plated rust free OEM Silver zinc plated SEMS bolts …
- your overall chance of a mis-step like a cross thread or stripped female threaded port basically reduce to a .9% or less risk factor …
- 00295-00103 likes new fresh dry zinc
- it hates old crusty laden parts cleaner chipped full 45+ year old swag hardware ….
at the end of the day John , your FJ62LG-PNEA & it's qty x 22pcs + 2 spares = 24pcs OEM SEMS hex head JIS 's will be happier too .....
.
I ran the #,s in the beginning on all the phun stuff , side cover gaskets , oil pans . I never encountered a leaking ATM pan ?
I think POST FJ62 / FJ80 3FE , the whole cork gasket ideology had faded into the ashes of history ….
If you simply order and add ALL the new OEM hardware you will zap off fast with your 3/8 what-ever quicki too ….
- 3%-4% tops to your over all parts budget
If you factor in the B/S the cleaning all fossilized age and time grime VS , ripping open parts bags ….
- the cost to B/S ratio is very apparent even to todays non-believers …
- now …
- factor in the fact you have dry , sharp , and most important plated rust free OEM Silver zinc plated SEMS bolts …
- your overall chance of a mis-step like a cross thread or stripped female threaded port basically reduce to a .9% or less risk factor …
- 00295-00103 likes new fresh dry zinc
- it hates old crusty laden parts cleaner chipped full 45+ year old swag hardware ….
at the end of the day John , your FJ62LG-PNEA & it's qty x 22pcs + 2 spares = 24pcs OEM SEMS hex head JIS 's will be happier too .....
.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #197
How much for the set? I have the FIPG ready to go!Over the course of my 4+ year mini-meme service and restore shop pre-online store dayz not that long ago …
I ran the #,s in the beginning on all the phun stuff , side cover gaskets , oil pans . I never encountered a leaking ATM pan ?
I think POST FJ62 / FJ80 3FE , the whole cork gasket ideology had faded into the ashes of history ….
If you simply order and add ALL the new OEM hardware you will zap off fast with your 3/8 what-ever quicki too ….
- 3%-4% tops to your over all parts budget
If you factor in the B/S the cleaning all fossilized age and time grime VS , ripping open parts bags ….
- the cost to B/S ratio is very apparent even to todays non-believers …
- now …
- factor in the fact you have dry , sharp , and most important plated rust free OEM Silver zinc plated SEMS bolts …
- your overall chance of a mis-step like a cross thread or stripped female threaded port basically reduce to a .9% or less risk factor …
- 00295-00103 likes new fresh dry zinc
- it hates old crusty laden parts cleaner chipped full 45+ year old swag hardware ….
at the end of the day John , your FJ62LG-PNEA & it's qty x 22pcs + 2 spares = 24pcs OEM SEMS hex head JIS 's will be happier too .....
.
View attachment 3527006
- Thread starter
- #198
Finished up the external transmission cooler installation this morning. Some tech photos for your viewing pleasure. I followed this procedure, which made it really easy to follow where everything goes. All in, this is not a difficult job, but YMMV depending on your rig. I had the pleasure of finding my PO's mechanic had routed the return line for the condenser across the front of the rig, which is exactly where you want to mount the trans cooler. No matter, some bracket and hackery from Ace Hardware and we were all set.
First up is to pull the crimps off the ends of that short return line off the passenger side of the radiator. Mid-Dremel, at least 4 non-reinforced cutting wheels were sacrificed in bringing you this photo. Note that it is lodged in the crimp below...
What isn't obvious from the procedure is what you find when you cut through those crimped connections. Maybe this is obvious to everyone else, but I was kind of at a loss at first. Here's the piece of the fitting you are interested in, DO NOT cut through the hose when Dremeling through the crimp!
Got 10 feet of 3/8 inner diameter trans fluid hose, of course I got the end of the roll from Autozone which made it that much harder to route in tight spaces in the front of the rig. I ended up needing about 9.5' of it.
The rest of the install is documented in the thread I linked to above. Here's what mine looked like finally installed, this is the Hayden 11"x11".
That U-shaped bracket on the driver's side is two angle brackets bolted together with some locknuts. It's attached to the aftermarket condenser on a mount that was just open and hanging out there. I routed the hoses through the firewall in a hole that is behind the driver's side high-beam and under the battery tray. This made it really difficult to find the ends of the hoses, since you're reaching under there blind. I also encased the hose in a protective outer hose / foam that I had left over from when I replaced the interior heater hoses in the FJ40, only in the portion that runs through the firewall, to keep sharp edges from rubbing the hoses.
Anyway, that's done. Now off to Wally-world to buy more oil and more ATF for next week's flushing adventures.
First up is to pull the crimps off the ends of that short return line off the passenger side of the radiator. Mid-Dremel, at least 4 non-reinforced cutting wheels were sacrificed in bringing you this photo. Note that it is lodged in the crimp below...
What isn't obvious from the procedure is what you find when you cut through those crimped connections. Maybe this is obvious to everyone else, but I was kind of at a loss at first. Here's the piece of the fitting you are interested in, DO NOT cut through the hose when Dremeling through the crimp!
Got 10 feet of 3/8 inner diameter trans fluid hose, of course I got the end of the roll from Autozone which made it that much harder to route in tight spaces in the front of the rig. I ended up needing about 9.5' of it.
The rest of the install is documented in the thread I linked to above. Here's what mine looked like finally installed, this is the Hayden 11"x11".
That U-shaped bracket on the driver's side is two angle brackets bolted together with some locknuts. It's attached to the aftermarket condenser on a mount that was just open and hanging out there. I routed the hoses through the firewall in a hole that is behind the driver's side high-beam and under the battery tray. This made it really difficult to find the ends of the hoses, since you're reaching under there blind. I also encased the hose in a protective outer hose / foam that I had left over from when I replaced the interior heater hoses in the FJ40, only in the portion that runs through the firewall, to keep sharp edges from rubbing the hoses.
Anyway, that's done. Now off to Wally-world to buy more oil and more ATF for next week's flushing adventures.
- Thread starter
- #199
Got after the transmission pan gasket and Rodney flush, along with the oil pan gasket earlier today. Was moving sort of slow today, as I've never done a transmission flush, but ultimately this is a 1-
job that just requires a lot of fresh ATF.
First pulling the trans pan. This didn't seem too horrible, and there weren't a lot of big chunks in the screen, just a fair amount of this silty gray matter that is probably the innards of my transmission. It seemed like someone had been on this before, but probably a long time ago. There was basically no torque on one of the bolts near the rear of the pan, which is where my leak was coming from.
Here's a look at that silty stuff I was talking about. This cleaned up with some brake cleaner and paper towels. The magnets weren't too loaded down with swarf, just about what I'd expect from a trans flush that hadn't been done in a while.
And a look at the screen. There was very little chunkiness inside here, I just cleaned and reinstalled.
The last thing once that was all done was the Rodney flush. I did this to the letter, and ended up blowing through about 3 gallons of ATF before it ran clean. I had only bought 2 new gallons, and then ended up getting more from the local auto parts store and then running through all of the stuff I had on the shelf. Used all synthetic Valvoline, and even though it's done, it still needs topping up once I have the oil pan back on the bottom end.
I also took the opportunity to pull off the radiator fittings for the trans cooler, since both of these were leaking. Removal revealed a couple of dead O-rings that I replaced with some from the hardware store. These are 12mm ID, 15mm OD, 3mm thickness O-rings for future reference. They worked great but need to really wrench them down to get them to seal up.
job that just requires a lot of fresh ATF.First pulling the trans pan. This didn't seem too horrible, and there weren't a lot of big chunks in the screen, just a fair amount of this silty gray matter that is probably the innards of my transmission. It seemed like someone had been on this before, but probably a long time ago. There was basically no torque on one of the bolts near the rear of the pan, which is where my leak was coming from.
Here's a look at that silty stuff I was talking about. This cleaned up with some brake cleaner and paper towels. The magnets weren't too loaded down with swarf, just about what I'd expect from a trans flush that hadn't been done in a while.
And a look at the screen. There was very little chunkiness inside here, I just cleaned and reinstalled.
The last thing once that was all done was the Rodney flush. I did this to the letter, and ended up blowing through about 3 gallons of ATF before it ran clean. I had only bought 2 new gallons, and then ended up getting more from the local auto parts store and then running through all of the stuff I had on the shelf. Used all synthetic Valvoline, and even though it's done, it still needs topping up once I have the oil pan back on the bottom end.
I also took the opportunity to pull off the radiator fittings for the trans cooler, since both of these were leaking. Removal revealed a couple of dead O-rings that I replaced with some from the hardware store. These are 12mm ID, 15mm OD, 3mm thickness O-rings for future reference. They worked great but need to really wrench them down to get them to seal up.
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Next was the oil pan gasket, which seemed to be making itself look like a RMS leak. I had the same issue with the FJ40, pulled the trans and transfer case only to find a perfectly good RMS and watch the oil seep out of the readily accessible rear arch. This time, I'm sure it'll be the RMS after I get done. 
Again, someone's been on this before, the gasket surface on the pan was pretty clean, but it looks like they didn't dimple the oil pan and they used just a smear of gray RTV instead of FIPG. And no idea of this was an OEM gasket. It doesn't look horrible, though.
The bottom end looked ok, but kind of carbon'd up. This isn't a total surprise given what I found on the top end, and am trying to think of reasons why it's done this. Maybe bad valve seals allowing a lot of blow-by? Rings? Just old?
I started removal, cleaned and dimpled the pan, replaced the oil filter, and will get back under the rig tomorrow with some Fel-Pro snap ups, FIPG and bolting it all up. Right now it's just sitting with a bunch of drip pans and cardboard to catch any junk that drips down overnight.
This should take care of two of my minor leaks. The biggest one is the side cover gasket, which might as well not be there. The second biggest is the timing cover, which I'll probably do in a month or two.
Again, someone's been on this before, the gasket surface on the pan was pretty clean, but it looks like they didn't dimple the oil pan and they used just a smear of gray RTV instead of FIPG. And no idea of this was an OEM gasket. It doesn't look horrible, though.
The bottom end looked ok, but kind of carbon'd up. This isn't a total surprise given what I found on the top end, and am trying to think of reasons why it's done this. Maybe bad valve seals allowing a lot of blow-by? Rings? Just old?
I started removal, cleaned and dimpled the pan, replaced the oil filter, and will get back under the rig tomorrow with some Fel-Pro snap ups, FIPG and bolting it all up. Right now it's just sitting with a bunch of drip pans and cardboard to catch any junk that drips down overnight.
This should take care of two of my minor leaks. The biggest one is the side cover gasket, which might as well not be there. The second biggest is the timing cover, which I'll probably do in a month or two.
