It's bigger than the original and tappers down towards the firewall. The idea is to give the cylinders equal air by evening out the pressure across the whole of the intake manifold. In the original the middle cylinders get the most because they are right near the turbo crossover pipe and the end cylinders get the least. It also makes the pathway to the FMIC a lot more straight forward.
gbentink Turbo Upgrade Users Thread (1 Viewer)
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It's bigger than the original and tappers down towards the firewall. The idea is to give the cylinders equal air by evening out the pressure across the whole of the intake manifold. In the original the middle cylinders get the most because they are right near the turbo crossover pipe and the end cylinders get the least. It also makes the pathway to the FMIC a lot more straight forward.
Alot of people have this mod already, including myself. Still think its a little on the small size. From my research 75mm (3") is the optimal size. But thats for a centre entry. Now having the intake at the front. It should really be larger, to make sure the last cylinder is indeed getting cool air flow.
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I think it would be cool because I can put my hand on any part of the intake manifold while the engine is still on after a good drive, including the far end, and it is relatively cool to the touch. If I turn off the engine it starts heating up quite quickly and I can no longer touch it.
I missed the "post turbo" bit. You should move it to pre-turbo.
How much temperature difference would there be between pre and post? As long as I take that into consideration is there any other reason to move it? I always thought if somehow the probe broke pre-turbo would be disasterous.
My figures 2 months ago when it was a 30 degree day and before the FMIC and tuning were:
- EGT 350 for normal running
- EGT up to 400 if I pushed it a bit
My current figures with the FMIC and tuning on a much colder 20 degree day are:
- EGT under 300 for normal running
- EGT still under 300 if I pushed it a bit
- FMIC sits around 33 for normal running
- FMIC goes to 44 if I push it a bit
My idea of pushing it a bit is probably quite sedate and only done in short bursts of perhaps 15 seconds. I've got two camping trips coming up before I can get a heavy duty clutch so I don't want to burn out my standard one just yet.
The temp difference is dynamic and ever-changing. It depends on absolute temperture, turbine pressure ratio, turbine efficiency, exhaust backpressure and a few others.
I have never heard of a probe coming apart. I have a 3mm probe at turbo inlet, it's been there for 8 years or so with no problems. If it did come apart, it would rattle around the turbine housing until it got small enough to exit. Not much different to a lump of carbon.
This is mine Graeme is talking about, so the plans and what's been done are.
Final connection between a S/S 4" snorkel to a custom air box with a flat filter with 4"inlet and 4" outlet.
Injector Pump has been rebuilt and upgraded to a HP pump at Diesel Central in Gracemere, Rockhampton with new standard injectors.
No front mount intercooler, the useless W2A intercooler is coming off and a bigger and better W2A intercooler is not that far away, but in the time being I will reinstall the safari intercooler I took off.
A large front mount will be a last resort.
HDJ79 Ute - Gturbo Bad Boy, DC2 Injectors, Gturbo programmed Chip
AFR's nice and high, so plenty of room for more power. As a result Im retuning the chip and should see yet another ute over 210kW at wheels
I asked the customer (in Townsville) if the dyno mob were surprised at the power. You'll laugh at the response:
Yeah mate they were. It was funny when I came back they had my Ute off the dyno and he was on the phone to dyno dynamics saying that the dyno wasn't reading correctly. He then put a known vehicle back on to make sure it was reading correctly and even then he couldn't believe the cruiser put down 175kw. The most he ever got out of a 1hdfte Ute was 130kw and 147kw out of the V8. We both think there is room for more power because under load there is absolutely no smoke
AFR's nice and high, so plenty of room for more power. As a result Im retuning the chip and should see yet another ute over 210kW at wheels
I asked the customer (in Townsville) if the dyno mob were surprised at the power. You'll laugh at the response:
Yeah mate they were. It was funny when I came back they had my Ute off the dyno and he was on the phone to dyno dynamics saying that the dyno wasn't reading correctly. He then put a known vehicle back on to make sure it was reading correctly and even then he couldn't believe the cruiser put down 175kw. The most he ever got out of a 1hdfte Ute was 130kw and 147kw out of the V8. We both think there is room for more power because under load there is absolutely no smoke
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Impressive numbers!
ps. any chance for torque curve?
ps. any chance for torque curve?
Torque is shown above. Rpm isn't shown and they didn't do the run from 1000rpm like I like. And... its shootout mode not a high ramp rate. But.... you get what you pay for - in as much as this customer is 4000km away so I didn't do the dyno or pay for it and wasn't even there
As for the torque, it will be over 7000N tractive when retuned. Also, to give an idea, a std ute is ~ 4000N tractive and 90kW in standard form. Considering no smoke and better normal driving economy - thats quite profound!
This ute is seriously quick! What is important is the power and the afrs and lack of smoke at full load. We already know that low rpm torque isn't an issue with a Gturbo
Thanks bernie for that feedback, it looks like you have a rocket on your hands. I cant see you being bored with the power after final mods and tune finished. Im guessing you already have a 3" exhaust system?? Would love to see some pics of your air box setup
Best to send inquires Graeme about the airbox.
After the airbox and intercooler is sorted, I'm doing a slight reworking of the exhaust from 3" the dump pipe to 4'' to the rear of the transfer case then splitting it to a twin 3" over the rear diff when the bank balance allows.
It already runs inside the chassis, the shortest route is the quickest with less bends.
Ordered my Gturbo today for my 12HT. I am setting up an appointment to get base line readings on a dyno before I start putting improvements in place. If I can do it time wise I will try to dyno it as I do each step. IC, 3" exhaust then the turbo. Be nice to see the hard numbers for each step.
Mark
Mark
That would be some excellent data.
I am assuming your planning on running a Grunter 1 at about 20psi when everything is done?
Grunter was suggesting 18PSI. I am sure that is the safety margin, with the rest on me. When I do the final pulls on the dyno I will plan for more time on it as I can mess with the boost and fuel settings for what seems the best for my 12HT. I have a ways to go timewise before I get to that point. I have to finish the IC system, install gauges and then build the exhaust. In thinking about it, I probably will just install the IC and gauges then do another pull on the dyno. This will show the IC gain with the stock setup. Then once the G-unit goes on I will just do the exhaust at the same time. I want the exhaust to be a dead fit for the new turbo.
Mark
This is a must have with a Gturbo, absolutely mind blowing the difference there is getting rid of the OME air box and fitting one of these.
I hate you guys...... now i have to have one, where did you get it?
