Already got it covered.
gbentink Turbo Upgrade Users Thread (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Mountain Goat
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Already got it covered.
super pumped to hear all of this new info.
I can't even imagine getting better response that what I have right now.
My Grunter kicks ass but hey I would love to get an upgraded one if the price was right!
I can't even imagine getting better response that what I have right now.
My Grunter kicks ass but hey I would love to get an upgraded one if the price was right!
Tighten those clamps
Guys, some not so good news.
You may recall I was the fortunate character to be Graeme's guinea pig and got his very first prototype. He's been reinvesting, reinventing, and re everything else ever since then, and all yours are better than mine.
I'd noticed an oil leak on the pressure oil feed gasket so called in to see Graeme to pick up a new gasket, and left with a new turbo!!!! The sad story is that when I pulled the oil line off, I noticed the compressor blades were looking very sad and ended up removing the turbo. It had been getting much more whistle up too, and I'd not twigged there was a problem.
Short story is that the turbo had ingested sand when I was hooning around showing off in the dunes. I have no idea how it got in there, all the clamps and joins seem tight - but obviously not.
What I'm guessing is that with the high boost - 20psi - the air intake system is under much greater than normal suction and it needs to be particularly air tight with all joins sealed and clamps really tight.
I've had to remove all the intercooler and it's piping, wash them out with petrol, and refit it all. It's not yet running again, but will most likely fire it up tomorrow. Yes there was a bit of dusty sand on the inlet manifold too.
I'm such a bad GTurbo 12H-T owner...... :-(
So, please go check your intake lines and seal them up.
Another thing was that I do have a catch can to capture any oil mist leaving the rocker cover before feeding into the intake of the turbo. But the catch can doesn't catch everything, and there was a mist of oil through the intercooler too. This was good in one way as it helped capture the sand, but it simply decreases the efficiency of the intercooler and an alternative needs to be found. GB suggests running it to the atmosphere through a line after the catch can, and not to run the breather into the intake pre turbo/intercooler. I guess it could go into the intake manifold direct, just as long as it bypasses the turbo and IC.
I'm hoping my lessons learned will help others.
Looking forward to my new grunter - a proper GTurbo, not a prototype
Tim
Guys, some not so good news.
You may recall I was the fortunate character to be Graeme's guinea pig and got his very first prototype. He's been reinvesting, reinventing, and re everything else ever since then, and all yours are better than mine.
I'd noticed an oil leak on the pressure oil feed gasket so called in to see Graeme to pick up a new gasket, and left with a new turbo!!!! The sad story is that when I pulled the oil line off, I noticed the compressor blades were looking very sad and ended up removing the turbo. It had been getting much more whistle up too, and I'd not twigged there was a problem.
Short story is that the turbo had ingested sand when I was hooning around showing off in the dunes. I have no idea how it got in there, all the clamps and joins seem tight - but obviously not.
What I'm guessing is that with the high boost - 20psi - the air intake system is under much greater than normal suction and it needs to be particularly air tight with all joins sealed and clamps really tight.
I've had to remove all the intercooler and it's piping, wash them out with petrol, and refit it all. It's not yet running again, but will most likely fire it up tomorrow. Yes there was a bit of dusty sand on the inlet manifold too.
I'm such a bad GTurbo 12H-T owner...... :-(So, please go check your intake lines and seal them up.
Another thing was that I do have a catch can to capture any oil mist leaving the rocker cover before feeding into the intake of the turbo. But the catch can doesn't catch everything, and there was a mist of oil through the intercooler too. This was good in one way as it helped capture the sand, but it simply decreases the efficiency of the intercooler and an alternative needs to be found. GB suggests running it to the atmosphere through a line after the catch can, and not to run the breather into the intake pre turbo/intercooler. I guess it could go into the intake manifold direct, just as long as it bypasses the turbo and IC.
I'm hoping my lessons learned will help others.
Looking forward to my new grunter - a proper GTurbo, not a prototype
Tim
Negative the crank breather always needs to be plumbed in pre turbo. If you put it in post turbo the turbo will pressurise your crank case with 20psi of boost and blow oil out of every seal and possibly damage the engine.
Sorry to hear about the turbo damage, I hope the engine faired better
20 psi at 1400,wow nice. And great service ,nice work G.
Can only vouch for the bb2, but it gets to 30psi easily enough, found that out on first test drive....... Previous turbo boost had been set at 14psi on controller, so did not think to touch it, wound fuel up about 1/4 turn for starter and the needle nearly jumped off the dial when mashing skinny pedal in third. I think it went to 35 but that was enough of a scare for one day. 
Baby steps.
My gut tells me that the standard snorkel and air box is really restricting its breathing from mid to high revs now, so a 4 inch intake system now has priority over large front mount intercooler, along with nutting out some sort of rev gauge, might have to look at plugging one into the IP.
Baby steps.My gut tells me that the standard snorkel and air box is really restricting its breathing from mid to high revs now, so a 4 inch intake system now has priority over large front mount intercooler, along with nutting out some sort of rev gauge, might have to look at plugging one into the IP.
I have net changed the names as I revised all models. There is Grunter Series and Bad Boy Series and there are two stages in each - so 4 models. And, in those 4, I make a few individual mods for the engine its going to bolt to.
The new series has improved. First I redesigned the comp wheels and turbines. There was an interim period where customer received factory comp covers hand machined with the new parts, then silver comp covers with small anti surge ports (for all specs), then (and now) coloured (CNC machined covers with extremely high accuracy/tolerances), where all stage 1's are black and all stage 2's are gold. Grunter Stage 1 doesn't have anti surge because it doesn't need it, all the others do (because they need it after the wheel design change, but I calculated they would need it and as it turns out I was right).
So, the new range I allow higher boost recommendations and The BB1 has been out to 2.6Bar (37 or so psi) and lived to tell the tale. BigBoy is running a G2 at 30psi.... And, with a great air intake system in particular, it will do it to the high rpms. But back pressure higher than the BB1, so miss a little on the power compared to Bad Boy Range at the really high boost levels. It is however, safe at 30psi.
My other mantra is "a website is coming". OMG its taking ages.... Anyway it will be there and I do plan to make a java calculator that gives expected boost curve, torque curve etc for a spec'd engine with spec'd mods.
Just thought I would put a plug in for Graeme and his great service. After reading his above thread with regards to his black and gold turbos I thought I had been sent a grunter 2 series 2 but it turns out it was only a grunter 1. Quick email to Graeme and the grunter is on its way back and the new one will be on its way when the other one arrives.
Great customer service well done Graeme.
Great customer service well done Graeme.
Negative the crank breather always needs to be plumbed in pre turbo. If you put it in post turbo the turbo will pressurise your crank case with 20psi of boost and blow oil out of every seal and possibly damage the engine.
Sorry to hear about the turbo damage, I hope the engine faired better
Thanks for the tips, and Dougal re the seal. Yes,
of course you're right re the pressure into the sump. Oh well, breathe to the atmosphere it is then. (through a pair of catch cans in series)I'm 'pretty sure' the air filter fits correctly. I can see marks on the filter where the rubber seal has been sitting. All the hoses are sealed up now with better clamps where needed, and I'll be wrapping 'Rescue tape' around the suction lines to make sure.
First drive with the new turbo - and an IC hose popped off....
So now to pull the grille apart again and redo it. There's a reason why not many four headlight HJ61's have a FMIC, they're a damn tight fit.
Tim
Can only vouch for the bb2, but it gets to 30psi easily enough, found that out on first test drive....... Previous turbo boost had been set at 14psi on controller, so did not think to touch it, wound fuel up about 1/4 turn for starter and the needle nearly jumped off the dial when mashing skinny pedal in third. I think it went to 35 but that was enough of a scare for one day.
My gut tells me that the standard snorkel and air box is really restricting its breathing from mid to high revs now, so a 4 inch intake system now has priority over large front mount intercooler, along with nutting out some sort of rev gauge, might have to look at plugging one into the IP.
Mudbludger, what sort of boost are you getting at 1700 rpm? When do you reach max boost?
What is a safe max boost for the 12ht?
search function is key bud.
the first guy on the forum had a 12h-t with a Gturbo....
20psi off the top of my head.
dont know jamo, no tacho..... damn, that rhymed, Im a poet and didnt know it
I've been running 19/20 psi with the very first GTurbo for a while, a year or so. No issues. Just replaced with a new Grunter due to me running sand through it.... :-(
Grunter is fine for 30psi, but the question always is, are you??
One of the issues with the 12h-t is the ease you can max out the fuel supply in the IP with the GTurbo, intercooler and 3" exhaust. With a clean exhaust, I'm not sure what is to be gained by running more than 20psi.
So, from my experience, 20psi is a nice number for a 12H-t with a GTurbo and proper setup. Running a standard CT26, probably around 15psi would be good, but that's a turbo issue, not a motor issue which is what you are asking for.
Bottom line really is heat. If you can keep your EGT down by giving it plenty of air for the fuel you are injecting, then that is what counts.
Tim
So what is the max EGT any of you run? I've got a 1HDT. At the moment it never gets above 425 Celsius even on a 37 degree day but my turbo setup is very conservative at the moment. When the FMIC goes in I'll try to push it harder.
I've gone 650-700C (1200-1300F) many hundreds of times. I don't even want to think about how many combined hours I've spent at those temperatures. I regularly do that for 10+ minutes straight. My max fuel is set so that I can get it to 1300F at high altitude (1500m) if I want to.
Thats really low... I can get my 12HT to spike at 750 celsius if I really push it... 500'ish is fairly common when accelerating heavily...
ps. Mine are PRE-turbo numbers...
