In my opinion intercooling should always be the first step when looking for more power diesel engine... I imagine you could get away by getting only Gturbo but in the best case you wont be getting all that you could from Gturbo without intercooling (and bigger exhaust)...
gbentink Turbo Upgrade Users Thread (2 Viewers)
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In my opinion intercooling should always be the first step when looking for more power diesel engine... I imagine you could get away by getting only Gturbo but in the best case you wont be getting all that you could from Gturbo without intercooling (and bigger exhaust)...
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
IMOP and talking about 80 series with 1HD-T exhaust first .. honestly you can do all in one shot .. but where is the fun on that ..
What I did was ..
1. Boost Controller 14PSI
2. Exhaust very short straight pipe 3"
3. Alcohol Injection ( Dual nozzle setup )
4. G-Turbo
5. 24PSI
6. Intercooler
What I did was ..
1. Boost Controller 14PSI
2. Exhaust very short straight pipe 3"
3. Alcohol Injection ( Dual nozzle setup )
4. G-Turbo
5. 24PSI
6. Intercooler
Can the boost be easily adjusted on the Gturbo?
The thing is I really can't do any of this myself so it will be costly not just to buy all the parts but to fit them properly too. That said I am so tempted to do all 3 at once including EGT and boost gauges. Any recommended places to have this done in Melbourne that would be happy to fit the Gturbo and do all the adjustments too?
The thing is I really can't do any of this myself so it will be costly not just to buy all the parts but to fit them properly too. That said I am so tempted to do all 3 at once including EGT and boost gauges. Any recommended places to have this done in Melbourne that would be happy to fit the Gturbo and do all the adjustments too?
I imagine that plain dyno runs without any tuning should be rather cheap (and quick), it's the tuning part that takes time, expertise and money...
Hi, I can set the boost to be in the range 14 to 22psi for you. Whatever you select can be modified with a simple boost bleed to the wastegate.
Darren at Auto-Craft in Melbourne is doing quite a few installs.
My emails graeme@gturbo.com.au if you nee dot send email.
Cheers, G
Darren at Auto-Craft in Melbourne is doing quite a few installs.
My emails graeme@gturbo.com.au if you nee dot send email.
Cheers, G
For running 30 PSI boost, at present I only have it set at 23 PSI for the G2, what are the thoughts of installing a Dual Stage Electronic Boost Controller to run a daily mode @ 20 PSI or a play mode @ 30 PSI for the BB2. I don't think there would be any changes needed for the injector pump fuel settings or will I. 
I'm guessing it's more a petrol thing with the Dual Stage Electronic Boost Controller.
I'm guessing it's more a petrol thing with the Dual Stage Electronic Boost Controller.
It's a great idea. My dual stage is adjustable in cab and on a switch. When rocket switch is off - 14psi and is more than enough for every day. Loves towing etc etc flick the switch and it jumps to what ever I have it set at. Instant power at the flick of the switch. But you will have to change your compensator spring and a complete new grind. For more tune ability to get the afr's correct right through the boost range (ie sitting on any given boost). This also allows you to adjust afr's to lower or higher at any given boost depending on your needs.
I didn't know you had done that.
What controller did you get, I'll get the same if you are happy with that type, ifin you don't mind
What controller did you get, I'll get the same if you are happy with that type, ifin you don't mind
Have to get a new compensator pin as I did a bit of a touch up and have gone backwards with low revs smoking before I get too far. That just searching for that little bit more didn't work.
My pin is fried aswell. It's soo hard to get a hold of 1. I'm getting some made up. With the new softer/longer travel spring. Even the factory shallowest grind goes to deep too quickly. The only reason I'm holding off atm. Is until I fit the larger more efficient heat exchanger. This will alter response and recover. And drop temps. So no point until that's done.
Graeme set the actuator to 14psi. The controller has a 30psi solinoid. So it's perfect. Because you tow alot, you can just tune in higher afr's at 14psi and leave it. When controller is on and set to 30psi. It flies through the 14psi section so fast, you don't notice the leaner afr's/power. It's really a win win. Just means more options.
This is my 1.
Graeme set the actuator to 14psi. The controller has a 30psi solinoid. So it's perfect. Because you tow alot, you can just tune in higher afr's at 14psi and leave it. When controller is on and set to 30psi. It flies through the 14psi section so fast, you don't notice the leaner afr's/power. It's really a win win. Just means more options.
This is my 1.
I was looking at 20psi for cruise, I run up to 12/14 psi running down the road doing 100/105 kmh.
As you may know Graeme has a special BB2, and looking at other options to enhance it if I can find the right places to get things done, I get a so many that go no that can't be done with the exhaust.
- Run a 3 1/2" exhaust from the dump pipe to just before the rear diff, split into 2 x 2", over the diff and down each side of the and out the rear, running just a single 3 1/2" resonator.
- Selling off the Safari snorkel and going to a 3 1/2" S/S
- Selling off the Safari intercooler and going W2A.
That is why I was interested in your project, but not the refrigerated system you are doing, too involved for me. But with a large enough capacity water system, any heat soak should only be an issue after stopping and under bonnet temperature raise because of no air flow, but I was thinking of using a turbo timer and running the heat exchange fan and water pump to keep that to a minimum, then there wouldn't be this mass of hot water just waiting to circulated.
And if Graeme would show off his products this side to the country, maybe around September in SE Qld would be a good time.
That sounds like a good idea.
As you may know Graeme has a special BB2, and looking at other options to enhance it if I can find the right places to get things done, I get a so many that go no that can't be done with the exhaust.
- Run a 3 1/2" exhaust from the dump pipe to just before the rear diff, split into 2 x 2", over the diff and down each side of the and out the rear, running just a single 3 1/2" resonator.
- Selling off the Safari snorkel and going to a 3 1/2" S/S
- Selling off the Safari intercooler and going W2A.
That is why I was interested in your project, but not the refrigerated system you are doing, too involved for me. But with a large enough capacity water system, any heat soak should only be an issue after stopping and under bonnet temperature raise because of no air flow, but I was thinking of using a turbo timer and running the heat exchange fan and water pump to keep that to a minimum, then there wouldn't be this mass of hot water just waiting to circulated.
And if Graeme would show off his products this side to the country, maybe around September in SE Qld would be a good time.
That sounds like a good idea.Heat soak from the engine at idle after sitting isn't too much of a factor. Sometimes I jump in it from a hard run and shut down for a while. And my posts air temps are slightly higher than the pre intake temps. Start it up and drive down the road. Watch the post numbers drop and the pre numbers climb. Drops back to where it needs to be in about 2 minutes max (2 streets away). The reserve water is not needed. It's more efficient and responds quicker without my 13 litre reserve. So it's now a water tank for my tap.
Ill vid to recovery time from sitting after running hard. Just keep in mind my heat exchanger is crap. Not enough surface area/down flow.
Ill vid to recovery time from sitting after running hard. Just keep in mind my heat exchanger is crap
. Not enough surface area/down flow.
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I was looking at 20psi for cruise, I run up to 12/14 psi running down the road doing 100/105 kmh.
As you may know Graeme has a special BB2, and looking at other options to enhance it if I can find the right places to get things done, I get a so many that go no that can't be done with the exhaust.
- Run a 3 1/2" exhaust from the dump pipe to just before the rear diff, split into 2 x 2", over the diff and down each side of the and out the rear, running just a single 3 1/2" resonator.
- Selling off the Safari snorkel and going to a 3 1/2" S/S
- Selling off the Safari intercooler and going W2A.
That is why I was interested in your project, but not the refrigerated system you are doing, too involved for me. But with a large enough capacity water system, any heat soak should only be an issue after stopping and under bonnet temperature raise because of no air flow, but I was thinking of using a turbo timer and running the heat exchange fan and water pump to keep that to a minimum, then there wouldn't be this mass of hot water just waiting to circulated.
And if Graeme would show off his products this side to the country, maybe around September in SE Qld would be a good time.
I decided to do it straight away as its like hell on earth today with a dry heat
. I threw it on the WTA thread to keep graemes thread clean.Any reason for the sudden jump from safari?
Yep, same reason I'm upgrading from a Grunter2 to a BB2, it's better.
How ever many years ago, when I installed the Safari it was "the one to get" and $ difference.
Most W2A intercoolers where then just aluminium radiator cores used as the cooler and heat exchanger much like some ebay specials today.
Shortest possible route from turbo to inlet manifold, less spool up lag should lessen the bit of bottom end torque I will loose from not having the Grunter2.
Thanks Graeme. I will definitely email you about this soon.
Is there anyone doing these on the east side of Melbourne? Geelong is about 100kms from where I live. I'm in Burwood East.
Matt at united fuel injection ( I believe Graeme's partner in crime! Lol! ) has said diesel - tech in lilydale is the biz. Sorry for jumping in Graeme, I have spent the last two nights absolutely gob smacked at what you and Matt are doing! My Gq tourer which is just about to get a td42 manual conversion is definitely getting Matt's kit, and my hj45 which was supposed to get my freshly rebuilt 60 thou over 454bb will now definitely be getting a full house 1HZ with either the bad boy or head kicker. Anyone in any doubt of these guys reputation needs to look up toughdiesels on the www.patrol4x4.com forum. These guys have a handle on these motors like no one else before or since. Will be PMing you real soon about some of your great gear Graeme.
What sort of boost are looking for from these? I've been thinking 30psi myself. I'm not sure if that's too crazy or not. I used to think a boost of 15psi was high until I started reading about Gturbos. Does it really all come down to controlling the EGTs?
So Dieseltec has installed a few of these already?
So Dieseltec has installed a few of these already?
Anyone know what potential a beefed up 1hz could run hp wise and still be safe. We're talking a full rebuild and a good turbo.
