gbentink Turbo Upgrade Users Thread (1 Viewer)

[AussieHJCruza]

@AussieHJCruza. Sounds exactly like what mine was like before the antisurge housings. Does the boost needle bounce around when making that noise? Does yours have the antisurge housing?

Yep, it's got the anti surge. To be honest, I haven't focused on the boost gauge when it does it, but I think the boost remains pretty constant

 

[dare]

FWIW virtually all of Western Australian (where gturbo is) driving is under 400m alititude. The majority of it is 200ish or less.

Western Australia Is about 1/3 the size of Australia. A bit over 1/4 the size of U.S.A.

Altitude isn't even a consideration for turbo selection here.

 

[Dougal]

FWIW virtually all of Western Australian (where gturbo is) driving is under 400m alititude. The majority of it is 200ish or less.

Western Australia Is about 1/3 the size of Australia. A bit over 1/4 the size of U.S.A.

Altitude isn't even a consideration for turbo selection here.

The altitude is for the Canadians and Americans. Here in NZ I run up to around 2000m altitude but major public roads top out around 1000m.
The main point was just because it runs surge free in Australia doesn't mean it'll be surge free in other locations.

If you're having an issue with surge on the flat, then look at your air intake. Filters and snorkles may be too small and providing too much pressure drop.

 

[gerg]

Yeah North America varies a lot, but for instance the lowest elevation in Colorado is 1000m. Passes go up to almost 3000m. I know that is the exception as far as states goes, but it something to keep in mind. Might want to go with the larger exhaust housing or something which forces a safer map if you are experiencing surge.

 

[Dougal]

Might want to go with the larger exhaust housing or something which forces a safer map if you are experiencing surge.

Or compounds. Always compounds.

A smaller compressor is an option too.

 

[AussieHJCruza]

Yep, it's got the anti surge. To be honest, I haven't focused on the boost gauge when it does it, but I think the boost remains pretty constant

I observed last night and the boost gauge remains steady when it is doing whatever it's doing, but that is on the cold side of the intercooler

 

[zipdoa]

Yeah North America varies a lot, but for instance the lowest elevation in Colorado is 1000m. Passes go up to almost 3000m. I know that is the exception as far as states goes, but it something to keep in mind. Might want to go with the larger exhaust housing or something which forces a safer map if you are experiencing surge.

Excuse my idiot reply - how can you force a safer map on a 1HD-T? Aren't they all mechanical? Or were you referring to an FTE?

 

[ForealBoreal]

Honestly Graeme would be the best person to ask about this as I am sure there are bad boys in Europe, USA and Alberta.

 

[IanB]

Excuse my idiot reply - how can you force a safer map on a 1HD-T? Aren't they all mechanical? Or were you referring to an FTE?

I'm pretty sure Gerg was talking about the compressor map for the turbo and the effect of the larger exhaust housing with respect to where in the efficiency range a turbo will run at higher altitudes.

 

[gerg]

Yeah, I guess you can run a larger turbine housing which will delay the boost, or at least diminsih its low rpm response and keep it off the left of the map, or you could do as Dougal says and run a smaller compressor which would shift the entire map to the right. You could always just be disciplined and not bost 20psi at 1500rpm at altitude or in hot weather and just keep the rpms up. Not all of our trucks are built equal. Anything that lowers your turbo intake air density on a compressor that is tweaked to the edge of performance will not tollerate it well. Restrictive snorkels, dirty filters, hot weather, high altitude, heat soaked engine bay will scew your pressure ratios and tip the scales. You guys need to keep mind this turbo is not built to be idiot proof, its build for performance. If you keep that in mind im sure you willbe ok.

 

[SAM1HDT]

Well my turbo came with a 15lb wastegate. Turbo is good for 20lbs boost. 12lb on cruise with a max of 15, not much of a reserve. I ran the 15lbs boost for awhile until I intercooled, it's now on 20. The turbo is getting to much back pressure and I believe the added boost at cruise is slightly effecting my fuel economy as its allowing my fuel pin in my compensator to fuel more when it's not needing to. I also notice I lack power up top in the RPMs where I wish I had a little more steam.

When I'm doing day to day driving (work ect) I pull the vacuum line of the top of the injector pump.
Still drives fine, a slightly less power then the standard 1hdt. Could be more or less depending on your tune though...
Anyway, it gets around very good like this, still tackles everything quite easily.
My waste gate is set at 22 psi and with the the vacuum line pulled off it maxes out at 17 psi from around 2500rpm onwards.
I would say it runs very efficiently (though I have never tested afr's). Egts stay at a very consistent 240 deg post turbo. Even up big hills, I might see only 300deg if I hold it flat for a minute or so.
Really the only time I put it back on is for sand driving or if I want to show off.
As for fuel economy, if I stay at or under 100km/hr, I usually return around 10-11 litres per 100, which isn't a great saving, but i think it will also extend the life of the motor, trans and diffs too.

 

[Wildnlost]

Trying to find the balance of fuel economy and power is something we all are shooting for. I wonder if putting some kind of dash mounted boost control that allows adjustment of the pressure going to boost compensator might be a solution.
If it works like a think it might the fuel pin could be setup for max power (fuel) really aggressively. Reduced spring pressure on the diaphram preload, delivering quick response and tuned for max power. Now driving down the hiway with poor economy and plenty of power you start bleeding pressure to the boost compensator with the control on your dash... Less pressure to the compensator you will get less fuel delivery thus increasing mileage and conversely ifyou require more power increase the pressure to compensator.
It could be as simple as a pressure bleed valve tee'd into the boost hose going to the compensator. This may require a small up stream restrictor to limit total flow going to the compensator. Has this being tried?
I have an industrial flow control valve i will install when the new turbo gets installed next week. Not Gturbo unfortunately but a Mamba td05-18g with 9 blade exhaust turbine.

 

[Dougal]

Trying to find the balance of fuel economy and power is something we all are shooting for. I wonder if putting some kind of dash mounted boost control that allows adjustment of the pressure going to boost compensator might be a solution.
If it works like a think it might the fuel pin could be setup for max power (fuel) really aggressively. Reduced spring pressure on the diaphram preload, delivering quick response and tuned for max power. Now driving down the hiway with poor economy and plenty of power you start bleeding pressure to the boost compensator with the control on your dash... Less pressure to the compensator you will get less fuel delivery thus increasing mileage and conversely ifyou require more power increase the pressure to compensator.
It could be as simple as a pressure bleed valve tee'd into the boost hose going to the compensator. This may require a small up stream restrictor to limit total flow going to the compensator. Has this being tried?
I have an industrial flow control valve i will install when the new turbo gets installed next week. Not Gturbo unfortunately but a Mamba td05-18g with 9 blade exhaust turbine.

There is no point in devices to reduce fuel (other than valet switches) as your right foot controls fuelling and thereby boost.

Driving down the highway the pump only injects the fuel required to maintain rpm. Shagging around with fuel pins and boost compensators does absolutely nothing to change the fuel required. They only come into effect at full load and highway cruising (where fuel economy is made or lost) all occurs at part load. If you want to save fuel on the highway then drive slower.

The best turbo choice for fuel economy is the turbo that delivers the required boost with the best efficiency. Boost compensators aren't relevant. The 18G compressor will not be in a good effiency spot at highway cruise, so you are losing fuel economy there.

 

[SAM1HDT]

Maybe my spring preload is set differently to yours, but when the compensator isn't plugged in power through the entire rev range is reduced even at low boost.
I'm no expert on injector pumps, but if there was 5, 10, 15 or even 1 psi going to the boost compensator wouldn't it be adding more fuel to compensate for the extra air?
So not having it plugged in when you are producing 5-10 psi on the highway would be saving you that fuel??

 

[Dougal]

Maybe my spring preload is set differently to yours, but when the compensator isn't plugged in power through the entire rev range is reduced even at low boost.
I'm no expert on injector pumps, but if there was 5, 10, 15 or even 1 psi going to the boost compensator wouldn't it be adding more fuel to compensate for the extra air?
So not having it plugged in when you are producing 5-10 psi on the highway would be saving you that fuel??

Diesels only add fuel to match the load. Cruising at 3psi will use pretty much the same amount of fuel as cruising at 10psi. What you feel as peak power (full load) is not what is happening at cruise.

If you reduce fuel below what you need to travel in 5th gear at 100km/h, then you simply won't have enough power to travel in 5th gear at 100km/h.

 

[SHREDwagon]

@ zipdoa - I have a grunter extreme running 20 psi driving in the mountains every day (< 9k ft). Covers my needs running 35's. Usually around GVW.

Highest I've been with the stock CT26 and IC was Imogene Pass (Pic) which was just shy of 14k ft - no problem. Went on to do Engineer and Pearl (~13k ft). IC was key.

Do you have an IC? Auto or stick?

 

[mudgudgeon]

Diesels only add fuel to match the load. Cruising at 3psi will use pretty much the same amount of fuel as cruising at 10psi. What you feel as peak power (full load) is not what is happening at cruise.

If you reduce fuel below what you need to travel in 5th gear at 100km/h, then you simply won't have enough power to travel in 5th gear at 100km/h.

The boost compensator concept takes a big to get your head around.

I see it as giving a much greater degree number and range of tuning adjustments over an IP with no compensator fitted.
The increased adjustability is in part what gives greater economy. Max fuel setting can be cranked up higher as the boost compensator limits fuel delivery until it's demanded by a combination of engine load and "right slipper input"

 

[Dougal]

The boost compensator concept takes a big to get your head around.

I see it as giving a much greater degree number and range of tuning adjustments over an IP with no compensator fitted.
The increased adjustability is in part what gives greater economy. Max fuel setting can be cranked up higher as the boost compensator limits fuel delivery until it's demanded by a combination of engine load and "right slipper input"

Indeed. The only fuel saving from a boost compensator is at high load with low rpm and low boost. The boost compensator reduces fuelling to stop you smoking.

There is no other way or means for a compensator to affect fuel economy.

 

[Wildnlost]

Diesels only add fuel to match the load. Cruising at 3psi will use pretty much the same amount of fuel as cruising at 10psi. What you feel as peak power (full load) is not what is happening at cruise.

If you reduce fuel below what you need to travel in 5th gear at 100km/h, then you simply won't have enough power to travel in 5th gear at 100km/h.

So if understand correctly the position of the fuel rod as dictated by boost pushing on the diaphram will not affect the fuel delivery to any significant amount. If It takes 50 HP to travel down the road at a 100 you need enough fuel to make that power.
I thought if you are cruising and boost is 10 psi the fuel pin will be depressed (guessing) 2/3 of full travel or 2/3 up the ramp on the pin. I believed that the farther down the pin travels the more fuel ( richer mixture) the engine would get. So if i reduce the boost pressure to the compensator while cruising at 10 psi manifold to say 5psi compensator. I thought the fuel pin is now only down 1/3 instead of 2/3's. At this reduced fuel pin position I tjought it would run on a leaner part of the fuel rod and get better mileage.

 

[Dougal]

So if understand correctly the position of the fuel rod as dictated by boost pushing on the diaphram will not affect the fuel delivery to any significant amount. If It takes 50 HP to travel down the road at a 100 you need enough fuel to make that power.

Yes

So if i reduce the boost pressure to the compensator while cruising at 10 psi manifold to say 5psi compensator. I thought the fuel pin is now only down 1/3 instead of 2/3's. At this reduced fuel pin position I tjought it would run on a leaner part of the fuel rod and get better mileage.

No. You can't run leaner without dropping power.