Gas/Fuel vapors/fumes visible from gas door (1 Viewer)

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There is a vent that runs up next to the fill pipe and exits around the gas cap (well hidden) but not sealed by the filler cap. This is were I have found the large volume of fuel vapors venting from.

I have not removed the fuel cap when there is mass amounts of fuel vapor venting and creating some real neat shadows on the side of the white fender panel. When my rig smells like gas at the filler door, I do not open the gas cap. Unless I am refueling.
 
There is a vent that runs up next to the fill pipe and exits around the gas cap (well hidden) but not sealed by the filler cap. This is were I have found the large volume of fuel vapors venting from.

I have not removed the fuel cap when there is mass amounts of fuel vapor venting and creating some real neat shadows on the side of the white fender panel. When my rig smells like gas at the filler door, I do not open the gas cap. Unless I am refueling.
Where does that vent come from? The CC? It clearly isn't from the main tank volume or there would be no point to the fill cap having control of vacuum and pressure as it does.
 
Any idea if the diesel fuel line coolers can be adapted?
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That would be convenient
 
Any idea if the diesel fuel line coolers can be adapted?
View attachment 3381783


That would be convenient
Not easily. I'm not totally sure but the diagrams suggest it mounts in the V of the engine, where we don't have easy room, and those use engine coolant which would be higher temps than we need to run.

Might be better to try and find a fluid/fluid cooler that has simple flat mounting on one side that we can try to stick on the frame, and lines pointing out another side that can easily be adapted to the lines along that frame, with new water/coolant lines along the frame to the front for the pump and heat exchanger.
 
Where does that vent come from? The CC? It clearly isn't from the main tank volume or there would be no point to the fill cap having control of vacuum and pressure as it does.
Yes, it comes from the CC.
 
I've started collecting some items...

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I've started collecting some items...

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I removed my budbuilt fuel skid in hopes the OEM skid traps less heat. It must. The budbuilt didn't have a mark on it from wheeling so I'm not feeling less protected if after all the wheeling I did, it never got hit. Now the 80 gets the tough stuff and the 200 gets the long trips and camping. If I were to do The Maze again, it would be in the 200 and so will LCDC of course, so this is still very relevant even if my protection needs underneath are less extreme.

So now I have a whole new charcoal canister and am back to original fuel tank skid. I'll see how it goes over the next month or so while temps move into the triple digits. Next step will be drilling out 1" holes in the budbuilt skid in the area of the cats to give them some ventilation. If that doesn't cut it, I'll be following in your footsteps by end of August.
 
I removed my budbuilt fuel skid in hopes the OEM skid traps less heat. It must. The budbuilt didn't have a mark on it from wheeling so I'm not feeling less protected if after all the wheeling I did, it never got hit. Now the 80 gets the tough stuff and the 200 gets the long trips and camping. If I were to do The Maze again, it would be in the 200 and so will LCDC of course, so this is still very relevant even if my protection needs underneath are less extreme.

So now I have a whole new charcoal canister and am back to original fuel tank skid. I'll see how it goes over the next month or so while temps move into the triple digits. Next step will be drilling out 1" holes in the budbuilt skid in the area of the cats to give them some ventilation. If that doesn't cut it, I'll be following in your footsteps by end of August.
Please share who does the drillig for you, if you don't DIY. I think I'll be on the Swiss standard with you, soon enough.
 
I like the way your thinking here, Any updates on this?
Not yet, it's all still sitting in the garage. I have a 5-day weekend coming up in 2 weeks, and was hoping to finally start assembling & test fitting at that point. However, I'm at the point where my radiator needs to get replaced, so I'll probably end up doing that first.
 
Not yet, it's all still sitting in the garage. I have a 5-day weekend coming up in 2 weeks, and was hoping to finally start assembling & test fitting at that point. However, I'm at the point where my radiator needs to get replaced, so I'll probably end up doing that first.
Gotcha, seems like there is always something! Do you mind sharing your parts list you have there?
Thanks
 
Gotcha, seems like there is always something! Do you mind sharing your parts list you have there?
Thanks

Yeah, sure!
I'm hoping to fit the reservoir, pump, and fluid coupler assembly all behind the air filter box, since that's where the return fuel line comes away from the engine. That will keep the modifications to the stock fuel return line to a minimum. It will also have relatively short routing of the coolant lines to the mini radiator that I'll place up in front of the regular radiator.
 
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Yeah, sure!
I'm hoping to fit the reservoir, pump, and fluid coupler assembly all behind the air filter box, since that's where the return fuel line comes away from the engine. That will keep the modifications to the stock fuel return line to a minimum. It will also have relatively short routing of the coolant lines to the mini radiator that I'll place up in front of the regular radiator.
Sounds like a good plan, so do you have a plan for splicing into the fuel return line?
 
Sounds like a good plan, so do you have a plan for splicing into the fuel return line?

Yes, planning to splice AN6 or AN8 fittings into the return line so that I can disconnect them from my custom cooling setup and back into the OEM configuration easily if I ever need to.
 
Yes, planning to splice AN6 or AN8 fittings into the return line so that I can disconnect them from my custom cooling setup and back into the OEM configuration easily if I ever need to.
Yes, that is what we are looking at doing as well and are looking to find the proper size quick connect adapters to do this.
 
I think going back to the OEM fuel tank skid helped a little but I still got some fuel smell if not actual gurgle gurgle boiling and puking. Went ahead and had the skid drilled out around the cats. Hoping this helps to get more air flowing and reduce what I think is an oven that had been created. Not ideal, but I'm experimenting at this point.

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I think going back to the OEM fuel tank skid helped a little but I still got some fuel smell if not actual gurgle gurgle boiling and puking. Went ahead and had the skid drilled out around the cats. Hoping this helps to get more air flowing and reduce what I think is an oven that had been created. Not ideal, but I'm experimenting at this point.

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Matt, have you pulled the skids completely and just driven like that for a bit in the heat? If it’s still gurgling with the skids removed then I’d start looking at the venting and maybe see if someone can pressure test the tank/emissions system. I know the common wisdom is that boiling fuel means the pressure relief vent is clogged, but in your case I’m starting to wonder if it’s the opposite - is your tank not maintaining pressure? Some amount of pressure helps keep the fuel from boiling by keeping the vapors in a liquid state.
 
I’d assume if the system isn’t holding pressure that he’d get a MIL. Basically the same thing as the fuel cap not being tight.
 
I’d assume if the system isn’t holding pressure that he’d get a MIL. Basically the same thing as the fuel cap not being tight.
Good point, I’d think so too.
 

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