FZJ80 Electrical Question (1 Viewer)

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I have a 1994 FZJ80. I recently replaced the alternator with an Denso replacement from @cruiseroutfit. Still was having issues with a dead battery on occasion. I replaced the fusible link and installed a new battery tonight. I had the old one tested and it had gone bad. I had them test the alternator too and they said its working but not putting out enough power - although from what I understand if your battery is bad the alternator will not test correctly? So maybe the alternator is fine. I may take it back in to have it tested with the new battery.

Probably unrelated but I have noticed that my windshield wipers pretty much only have one speed on all 4 setting. Also I am pretty sure before the alternator issue my headlights would turn off when I locked the car with the fob, now they do not. Maybe I am mistaken on that, but pretty sure that's how it worked?

I'm just curious if anyone else has had this issue and what was the cause, or if these are all unrelated issues.
 
All those problem areas pass through the steering column. Might be a good place to start the fine tooth comb at. The ignition switch is also a place to examine closely, for instance.

PS Digging that avatar.:clap:
 
PS Digging that avatar.:clap:

Thanks! I should have purchased a warehouse to store the 55 and other cruisers in instead of selling it. It was a nice one and I miss it. But, one man does not need more than 5 cruisers. Or does he?
 
It sounds like you have a bad ground somewhere. Look in the FSM for the ground locations. I bet you have a loose or corroded one that’s causing your issues.
Thank you, I’ll check the ground, this is super helpful.

What are the odds do you think than an accessory could be causing the problem? I have a fridge wired and some spot lights is all. Fridge is super basic and direct to battery. Spot lights tap into headlights. I think I have them wired correctly but I wonder.
 
Thanks! I should have purchased a warehouse to store the 55 and other cruisers in instead of selling it. It was a nice one and I miss it. But, one man does not need more than 5 cruisers. Or does he?
If I'd put the 55 in a warehouse in the winter, I would likely still have it. But those where the infamous winters of the late 70s and I needed it to get to work. Go figure. Cost me all of $6200, brand new. I should've bought a spare.
 
If I'd put the 55 in a warehouse in the winter, I would likely still have it. But those where the infamous winters of the late 70s and I needed it to get to work. Go figure. Cost me all of $6200, brand new. I should've bought a spare.
Yeah I guess they come and go. Not sure if I'll have a 55 again, but I loved the one I had while I owned it. For some reason I miss my FJ60 more. I've been keeping an eye out, but I'm not sure I'll ever find one as clean as the one I sold. Oh well. enjoying the ones I have while I have them.
 
@jonheld Paging Jonheld... you're needed in the electrical department.

Boys, help is on the way. Meanwhile I shall entertain with an rambling old man story. Once many moons ago, I was part owner and operator of an automotive repair shop. We were an honest couple of kids who never overcharged...in fact one of us....not pointing fingers was helping the less financially fortunate after hours by doing work for parts plus whatever they could pay....a "spaghetti dinner" if you could call it that was one such payment. I say this to illustrate that we were mechanics not technicians, we diagnosed, tested, re-tested and repaired, rebuilt or replaced whatever was wrong. That being said, it was always our standing that unless you absolutely can't afford a battery and alternator that you replace both at the same time.

Nothing overworks a new alternator like an old crappy battery. And nothing puts more load on an new battery than an old alternator struggling to keep the voltmeter reading right. I don't condone throwing parts at a problem to diagnose it. However, I do promote new battery for new alternator and vice versa. After all, the cost of a battery is significantly cheaper than a lost days wages and a tow.

if the problem persist with battery drain. try pulling 1 fuse and from the fuse box, check voltage, let it sit overnight and check voltage in the morning. if it dropped then replace the fuse and pull a different one. you may be surprised to find one fuse pulled stops the drop. Then investigate the circuits that fuse powers.
 
@jonheld Paging Jonheld... you're needed in the electrical department.

Boys, help is on the way. Meanwhile I shall entertain with an rambling old man story. Once many moons ago, I was part owner and operator of an automotive repair shop. We were an honest couple of kids who never overcharged...in fact one of us....not pointing fingers was helping the less financially fortunate after hours by doing work for parts plus whatever they could pay....a "spaghetti dinner" if you could call it that was one such payment. I say this to illustrate that we were mechanics not technicians, we diagnosed, tested, re-tested and repaired, rebuilt or replaced whatever was wrong. That being said, it was always our standing that unless you absolutely can't afford a battery and alternator that you replace both at the same time.

Nothing overworks a new alternator like an old crappy battery. And nothing puts more load on an new battery than an old alternator struggling to keep the voltmeter reading right. I don't condone throwing parts at a problem to diagnose it. However, I do promote new battery for new alternator and vice versa. After all, the cost of a battery is significantly cheaper than a lost days wages and a tow.

if the problem persist with battery drain. try pulling 1 fuse and from the fuse box, check voltage, let it sit overnight and check voltage in the morning. if it dropped then replace the fuse and pull a different one. you may be surprised to find one fuse pulled stops the drop. Then investigate the circuits that fuse powers.
sound advice. thank you.
 
First thing I would do is put a meter across the battery terminals after the truck has been sitting overnight before starting the engine. A charged battery will read 12.6 volts or so depending on the type of battery, assuming the battery can hold a charge.
Then start the engine. If the alternator is charging, you should get 14.4 volts at startup..

A bad cell in a battery will drag down system voltage.
A bad alternator will not charge properly.

In either case, you need to test them individually as described with a meter.
 
First thing I would do is put a meter across the battery terminals after the truck has been sitting overnight before starting the engine. A charged battery will read 12.6 volts or so depending on the type of battery, assuming the battery can hold a charge.
Then start the engine. If the alternator is charging, you should get 14.4 volts at startup..

A bad cell in a battery will drag down system voltage.
A bad alternator will not charge properly.

In either case, you need to test them individually as described with a meter.
Thanks. When tested at the shop they determined the battery had a bad cell, they tested the alternator with that bad battery in the rig. I'll test it now that I have the new battery. Just need to figure out the slow wiper issues now.
 
Thanks. When tested at the shop they determined the battery had a bad cell, they tested the alternator with that bad battery in the rig. I'll test it now that I have the new battery. Just need to figure out the slow wiper issues now.
I had pretty slow wipers on my 97 LX450. Pulled the motor apart and cleaned out the old nasty grease, cleaned it all up and regreased it. Works well now.
Yours may be related to the charging system, or a faulty switch. Test all that first.
 
I had pretty slow wipers on my 97 LX450. Pulled the motor apart and cleaned out the old nasty grease, cleaned it all up and regreased it. Works well now.
Yours may be related to the charging system, or a faulty switch. Test all that first.
thanks. what did you use to clean the old grease? any special kind of grease required for that motor? Just in case that's what ends up needing to happen.
 
thanks. what did you use to clean the old grease? any special kind of grease required for that motor? Just in case that's what ends up needing to happen.
A bit of WD40 helps to break down the old grease. I used some white lithium grease mixed with a touch of Fluid Film to thin it a bit.
 
stopped and had the alternator tested this morning with the new battery and it's only putting out 12.08V.
Did you have a Denso alternator installed? Denso is the OEM for Toyota.
A Toyota rebuilt alternator is part # 27060-66070-84 and runs about $180.
 
Did you have a Denso alternator installed? Denso is the OEM for Toyota.
A Toyota rebuilt alternator is part # 27060-66070-84 and runs about $180.
Yes, I just replaced the alternator in February with Denso. Sounds like I got a faulty one I guess.
 

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