unknown electrical issue... (1 Viewer)

[VTOVRLND]

Newb here, trying to sort out a recently acquired FJ80 from Japan. On the way from the port had a couple warning lights and the charge light next to the amp meter go on, then within 20 minutes the thing stalled out, wouldn't start unless a jump pack was on. Among other signs; radio wouldn't turn on, all 4 windows moved down slowly but got stuck going up. Finished the trip home on a flatbed with the assumption that it was the alternator and ordered a re-built alternator from Toyota dealer that I have since installed. OEM alternator tested FAIL at an auto store but the battery was good. The battery has a sticker with the mileage just a few thousand less than what the ODO says now, though not dated. I'm assuming it is fairly new. The test at the parts store came out at 11.8V and they weren't recommending that I buy a battery and they didn't have an alternator in stock, so I'll assume they weren't trying to sell me either item.

So, after putting everything back on, truck cranked a bit but didn't start. I used a Jackery to charge the battery for about 25 minutes, then went out and started the truck fine, shut off a couple times and re-started OK, but the windows are all doing the same thing and radio won't work. No charge warning light on the dash, and the A/T oil warning light also was not on as it was when I picked the truck up which I assumed to be the 'christmas tree' effect of un-related warning lights when amps are low.

Would the battery still possibly be the culprit here? Even with testing at 11.8v? Any other easy to check items that I'm missing? I did glance at several of the fuses and all looked OK, but I also don't know which ones would be directly related to this issue. I don't really know how to determine if any of the wiring harnesses are bad and everything that I took off to remove the smog pump and alternator went back together without issues.

I think it will need to be taken to someone to look into it, but so far I haven't found anyone real close to my house that answers 'yes' to the question do you have any experience working on land cruisers. I live in the north Philadelphia 'burbs. I don't want to drive it too far out of fear of it dying on the road again.

Only weird electrical thing I found was that the previous owner did install some kind of HID headlight conversion, but it looks like it was in the engine bay for a while, so I would be surprised if that killed the battery or original alternator, but again, I'm pretty ignorant on stuff like this.

Any thoughts?

 

[OffRoadScott]

Newb here, trying to sort out a recently acquired FJ80 from Japan. On the way from the port had a couple warning lights and the charge light next to the amp meter go on, then within 20 minutes the thing stalled out, wouldn't start unless a jump pack was on. Among other signs; radio wouldn't turn on, all 4 windows moved down slowly but got stuck going up. Finished the trip home on a flatbed with the assumption that it was the alternator and ordered a re-built alternator from Toyota dealer that I have since installed. OEM alternator tested FAIL at an auto store but the battery was good. The battery has a sticker with the mileage just a few thousand less than what the ODO says now, though not dated. I'm assuming it is fairly new. The test at the parts store came out at 11.8V and they weren't recommending that I buy a battery and they didn't have an alternator in stock, so I'll assume they weren't trying to sell me either item.

So, after putting everything back on, truck cranked a bit but didn't start. I used a Jackery to charge the battery for about 25 minutes, then went out and started the truck fine, shut off a couple times and re-started OK, but the windows are all doing the same thing and radio won't work. No charge warning light on the dash, and the A/T oil warning light also was not on as it was when I picked the truck up which I assumed to be the 'christmas tree' effect of un-related warning lights when amps are low.

Would the battery still possibly be the culprit here? Even with testing at 11.8v? Any other easy to check items that I'm missing? I did glance at several of the fuses and all looked OK, but I also don't know which ones would be directly related to this issue. I don't really know how to determine if any of the wiring harnesses are bad and everything that I took off to remove the smog pump and alternator went back together without issues.

I think it will need to be taken to someone to look into it, but so far I haven't found anyone real close to my house that answers 'yes' to the question do you have any experience working on land cruisers. I live in the north Philadelphia 'burbs. I don't want to drive it too far out of fear of it dying on the road again.

Only weird electrical thing I found was that the previous owner did install some kind of HID headlight conversion, but it looks like it was in the engine bay for a while, so I would be surprised if that killed the battery or original alternator, but again, I'm pretty ignorant on stuff like this.

Any thoughts?

So have you tried pulling the battery and putting it on a charger, when you do slowly charge it overnight if you can do that. We at work charge batteries at no more than 2 amps overnight, let them sit then test them.

I personally use this charger from NOCO. It allows you to charge different types of batteries (Flooded/AGM/Lithium/6V). Mine is a little different as it has a pulsating light that is red at first then green when fully charged.

Noco Charger

Check the fusible link as well. You can get them from reputable small businesses or even the local Toyota dealer.

What is the voltage at the battery when the car is running and the alternator is charging the battery? Voltage at the alternator?

Check battery/engine grounds as well.

 

[ITRJ]

You need to do some basic checks. 11.8V is low. You should charge that battery. Make sure that you have over 13V at the battery when the engine is running to confirm that your new alternator is charging. Check all your fuses. Slow windows are common and may be unrelated.

 

[Malleus]

It sounds like you have several unrelated problems (or functionally unrelated anyway). Some information about your truck would be helpful. What year, how many miles/km, what modifications have bee made (that you know of). I realize this is a JDM truck, but there are enough similarities that a US FSM (Toyota repair manual) and EWD (electrical wiring diagram and troubleshooting guide) would be helpful. You can download both from the the Resources section.

You stated that you had "several warning lights". Which ones specifically?

I agree with @ITRJ your battery is low on charge. Check the electrolyte level before you try to charge it.

A couple of observations:

The radio should work if the lights and windows work; it draws very little current. The EWD has a diagram of the dash mounted fuse panel.

The windows may be slow going up due to old motors, old window gaskets or crap in the linkage. Try warm soapy water window gasket (Toyota calls it the window channel run); a small brush works well for this. It won't take much to clean and lubricate the rubber. There are weep holes in the lower edge of the door; make sure these are clean and free of obstructions first. You don't want to turn your door into a water bottle. I would not try to lubricate it with oil or silicone. If the water improves the speed, get new rubber.

 

[jonheld]

So you know you had a faulty alternator and the battery is reading 11.8 VDC which is 70% discharged.
Just slapping in a new alternator and trying to start the truck with an almost dead battery isn't going to work out well.
Charge the battery and see if it holds a charge for a day. Depending on the type of battery, it might be too far gone to be brought back to a full state of charge. Especially if it's a flooded cell type.

 

[VTOVRLND]

It sounds like you have several unrelated problems (or functionally unrelated anyway). Some information about your truck would be helpful. What year, how many miles/km, what modifications have bee made (that you know of). I realize this is a JDM truck, but there are enough similarities that a US FSM (Toyota repair manual) and EWD (electrical wiring diagram and troubleshooting guide) would be helpful. You can download both from the the Resources section.

You stated that you had "several warning lights". Which ones specifically?

I agree with @ITRJ your battery is low on charge. Check the electrolyte level before you try to charge it.

A couple of observations:

The radio should work if the lights and windows work; it draws very little current. The EWD has a diagram of the dash mounted fuse panel.

The windows may be slow going up due to old motors, old window gaskets or crap in the linkage. Try warm soapy water window gasket (Toyota calls it the window channel run); a small brush works well for this. It won't take much to clean and lubricate the rubber. There are weep holes in the lower edge of the door; make sure these are clean and free of obstructions first. You don't want to turn your door into a water bottle. I would not try to lubricate it with oil or silicone. If the water improves the speed, get new rubber.

Really appreciate everyone for taking the time to read my post and chime in. Seems pretty unanimous that the battery charge level is not in fact OK as the autozone guy thought.

To answer your questions, it has about 106k miles, and there were two warnings in addition to the small red dot next to the volt meter, one was A/T oil temp and I can't remember the other one. Only other mod I've seen so far is the HID headlights as mentioned, and they were not on at the time that I was having issues. I'll also check voltage levels when they are off/on to see if that changes it. I think it has LED interior lights as well, but they should draw less than the originals. And it's possible the radio is just dead I guess? I'm planning to replace it anyhow.

I think it's def. time to just get my own volt meter so I can test things, and probably wouldn't be a bad $45 spent on that trickle charger that was suggested. I'll give it a dedicated overnight charge and then measure the voltages and see what's what. I was actually surprised it started at all at the port since it had been sitting for 3 months between the auction ending and arriving here, and who knows how long before that. Also appreciate the insight into the window issue--had no idea they could all be this bad/sticky but it is a 30 year-old truck after all.

There is plenty of evidence of care/pride of ownership before me, so I'm still optimistic this will be a good truck. I don't think that's surprising with a truck that was graded 3.5 at Japanese auction.

 

[Malleus]

It might be helpful to others is you put some of that info in your signature line.

The A/T oil temp light isn't a good sign, especially if this has an A440F transmission. They are usually very dependable.

I'd download the repair manuals before I spent any money on the truck.

 

[VTOVRLND]

Will do on the sig line. Yes, I was concerned too with that warning light, but it was also on immediately when the vehicle was sitting cold in the am when I first drove it, and as I've read elsewhere, this is one of the warning lights you'll see in the 'xmas tree' that can come on when there is a voltage issue. Granted it was re-set when the power was disconnected for a few days, but it is also off now that I've re-started the truck after briefly charging the batt and replacing the alt.

 

[mudplacement]

In this order:
Loose Terminal
Terminal corrosion
Battery test
Alt test
Fusible link
Bad grounds

 

[CJF]

The A/T oil temp light isn't a good sign

That comes on as part of the "christmas tree" of low-voltage warning lights.

I think bad (or at least discharged) battery is the only issue here.

 

[Malleus]

Not while the engine is running.

 

[CJF]

Not while the engine is running.

Absolutely while the engine is running, at least on a 91-92 US model.

 

[mudplacement]

Not while the engine is running.

Ive had A/T oil on a running 93 FZJ80 due to dead batt/bad alt.

 

[ITRJ]

In this order:
Loose Terminal
Terminal corrosion
Battery test
Alt test
Fusible link
Bad grounds

Don’t forget fuses.

 

[VTOVRLND]

Thanks again for all the input, I'm learning more by the day. I replaced the battery and seems like things are as they should be now, at least from a voltage standpoint. Testing the battery when I installed it and engine off, it was 12.4V then with the engine on it was 14.8 or so. So looks like the alt. is sending power back to the battery.

Windows are still not great, but as some have mentioned, seems like its probably the usual reasons and something I'll have to get to later to address.

 

[robnicko]

sounds like the brushes in the alternator could possibly be worn down to the point where weak contact is being made. Happened to me last year and got all the warning lights come on just like you describe including the AT/Temp one.
Voltage to the battery instantly dropped and the car basically ran off the battery until i stopped and gave the back of the ALT a tap which then must have freed up the brushes and it started charging again.

I replace the brushes and its been fine ever since - they were considerably worn compared to the new ones

have a look at this video

 

[mudplacement]

sounds like the brushes in the alternator could possibly be worn down to the point where weak contact is being made. Happened to me last year and got all the warning lights come on just like you describe including the AT/Temp one.
Voltage to the battery instantly dropped and the car basically ran off the battery until i stopped and gave the back of the ALT a tap which then must have freed up the brushes and it started charging again.

I replace the brushes and its been fine ever since - they were considerably worn compared to the new ones

have a look at this video

Had the same thing happen with the same symptoms last year as well.
Kept the revs high and gunned it home for an alt replacement.

 

[VTOVRLND]

Yea, I _may_have attempted that brush repair had I known about that as an option but it's a moot point now since I replaced mine with a re-built one. One less thing to be paranoid about down the road.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

As @jonheld mentioned, flooded cell batteries especially can be over drawn to the point of not being able to be 100% recovered. I've come across numerous batteries that sitting read 12.4v but didn't have adequate amperage to start a vehicle some of which where literally purchased from the local parts store and installed to find it was a lemon. Also, it is best practice to replace your battery when you replace your alternator because there is no telling how long your vehicle has been relying on battery power to make up for a failing alternator or vice versa.