Full Floater Full Rebuild
- Thread starter jynx
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #22
Actually, I have been working on it, but I haven't had a chance to get the pictures loaded to post an update. I got the hubs rebuilt and loaded up with new bearings this weekend and got one of the e-brakes put back together. I will get a proper update done this evening.
Have you heard or seen anything from your new chunk?
- Thread starter
- #24
So, I finally got some time to update this and while I am not moving quite as quickly as I would like, I am making some progress, so here is the latest.
As I mentioned, I got a pair of nearly new backing plates from Will at ACC and well, take a look and judge for yourself.
New
And the Old
I got those mounted up about a week ago and just never got a chance to post the pics.
And this Sunday I got to spend some time in the garage and got a good bit done.
First I laid out the new parts.
You see a mix of OEM and aftermarket. I got new KOYO bearings, seals and gaskets from CDan, as well as some new e-brake pins and parts that I don't think I have pictures of right now. Rotors and e-brake hardware are Raybestos from RockAuto.
New Bearings from AZ, interestingly the OEM's were Timken and looked to be in pretty good shape.
I cut the old races to use for driving the new ones in, man that is the way to drive a bearing race. I packed the bearings with MP and loaded up the hubs. I installed the inner bearing and seated the new grease seals.
Both hubs, cleaned up and painted with races, new bearings and seals installed.
Maybe this isn't to redundant, but this part has been covered before.
Install hub
Install outer bearing
Install Washer
Install hub nut
They are hand tight right now since I still have to pick up a fish scale to check preload before I install the locking screws in the big nut.
I found the perfect tool for seating the new axle shaft seals is a 1 1/4" socket
And the product of a little work dropping the newly rebuilt 5.29 rear chunk and both hubs.
Now onto the brakes...
As I mentioned, I got a pair of nearly new backing plates from Will at ACC and well, take a look and judge for yourself.
New
And the Old
I got those mounted up about a week ago and just never got a chance to post the pics.
And this Sunday I got to spend some time in the garage and got a good bit done.
First I laid out the new parts.
You see a mix of OEM and aftermarket. I got new KOYO bearings, seals and gaskets from CDan, as well as some new e-brake pins and parts that I don't think I have pictures of right now. Rotors and e-brake hardware are Raybestos from RockAuto.
New Bearings from AZ, interestingly the OEM's were Timken and looked to be in pretty good shape.
I cut the old races to use for driving the new ones in, man that is the way to drive a bearing race. I packed the bearings with MP and loaded up the hubs. I installed the inner bearing and seated the new grease seals.
Both hubs, cleaned up and painted with races, new bearings and seals installed.
Maybe this isn't to redundant, but this part has been covered before.
Install hub
Install outer bearing
Install Washer
Install hub nut
They are hand tight right now since I still have to pick up a fish scale to check preload before I install the locking screws in the big nut.
I found the perfect tool for seating the new axle shaft seals is a 1 1/4" socket
And the product of a little work dropping the newly rebuilt 5.29 rear chunk and both hubs.
Now onto the brakes...
- Thread starter
- #26
E-brakes
After I got the hubs both on, I moved onto the e-brake hardware.
First, here are a couple of reasons why you should always keep the old stuff until you start putting things back together.
On the left is the OEM cleaned up a bit, and on the right, the aftermarket, see the difference in the material. These are the pin locating plates that go below the springs. shown in another picture
And on top the the aftermarket adjuster, and below the cleaned up OEM. you can definitely see the difference here. The yoke that seats onto the shoes is much beefier, the free end has a much longer shaft that locates it in the adjuster body, and the body itself of the OEM is actually smooth bored to accept the free end while the aftermarket is threaded all the way thru so the free end floats on the threads.
Needless to say both of those parts are going in the spare parts tray and the OEM ones went back onto the axle.
So the new shoe gets the e-brake actuator arm attached and the new cable from CDan got seated onto that.
I will get a side by side of the new and old cables, but after seeing the new I am positive that prior to this rebuild, the e-brake was non-functional.
I spent a good bit of time getting things on right, so I don't have any good install shots, but here are the finished products with some commentary.
One of the main things I want folks to take note of is that the bent pin that goes towards the front of the vehicle (middle left in the above picture) should be installed in front of the e-brake actuator arm. I studied on several schematics including the FSM and the actual e-catalog that Beno had posted on here and after I put it on backwards and fiddled with it for a good bit, I figured out that if installed backwards the arm and the shoe bind and do not operate correctly. Once turned around things play much nicer together.
Secondly, the pins DO NOT go thru the shoe itself like on most drum sytle brakes, instead you slide the pin thru the open slot and then you put what I called the pin locating plate over the pin and hook it into the hole in the shoe, then your spirng and retainer go over that. I will get a better picture of this since I still have to do the other side.
The original adjuster installed with a new spring. I turned the spring inboard against the adjuster. Someone might confirm if I got this right, the FSM is not all that helpful on this one. Also from all I can tell the threaded end of the adjuster goes toward the rear of the vehicle.
Here is a little better picture of how the pin and retainers go together, as well as the return spring. You can't really see the slot I was talking about, but you can see the little tab seated in the hole with the other end of the return spring. You can also see that new actuator for the e-brake behind everything.
A new rotor hat covers everything up. I spun it by hand and pulled the lever and as long as I can get the cable adjusted properly, I think she will hold nicely.
And just for giggles I threw on the tundra wheels to see what she will look like.
I still have to do the passenger side e-brake and I will get some pictures of the overall layout without the rotor on when I do that later this week.
Other than that I have to get the calipers on and get the lines cleaned up and put back on, as well as adjust the bearing preload and button up the shafts. I will probably hit the chunk with a wire wheel and some gloss black so that it will all be nice and shiny when I roll her under the cruiser.
I also need to clean up the e-brake cable from the donor and get some bicycle cable lube on it to make sure she is slicked up for the new home.
If all goes to plan I hope to try and make the swap over the long weekend, but I am sure the
will have some honey-do's that may eat up part of that plan.
Anyway, hope this is informative. If anyone would like to see something that I haven't got pictured, please let me know. I want this to be as helpful as possible to anyone who is working on one of these axles.
thanks for looking,
Tucker
After I got the hubs both on, I moved onto the e-brake hardware.
First, here are a couple of reasons why you should always keep the old stuff until you start putting things back together.
On the left is the OEM cleaned up a bit, and on the right, the aftermarket, see the difference in the material. These are the pin locating plates that go below the springs. shown in another picture
And on top the the aftermarket adjuster, and below the cleaned up OEM. you can definitely see the difference here. The yoke that seats onto the shoes is much beefier, the free end has a much longer shaft that locates it in the adjuster body, and the body itself of the OEM is actually smooth bored to accept the free end while the aftermarket is threaded all the way thru so the free end floats on the threads.
Needless to say both of those parts are going in the spare parts tray and the OEM ones went back onto the axle.
So the new shoe gets the e-brake actuator arm attached and the new cable from CDan got seated onto that.
I will get a side by side of the new and old cables, but after seeing the new I am positive that prior to this rebuild, the e-brake was non-functional.
I spent a good bit of time getting things on right, so I don't have any good install shots, but here are the finished products with some commentary.
One of the main things I want folks to take note of is that the bent pin that goes towards the front of the vehicle (middle left in the above picture) should be installed in front of the e-brake actuator arm. I studied on several schematics including the FSM and the actual e-catalog that Beno had posted on here and after I put it on backwards and fiddled with it for a good bit, I figured out that if installed backwards the arm and the shoe bind and do not operate correctly. Once turned around things play much nicer together.
Secondly, the pins DO NOT go thru the shoe itself like on most drum sytle brakes, instead you slide the pin thru the open slot and then you put what I called the pin locating plate over the pin and hook it into the hole in the shoe, then your spirng and retainer go over that. I will get a better picture of this since I still have to do the other side.
The original adjuster installed with a new spring. I turned the spring inboard against the adjuster. Someone might confirm if I got this right, the FSM is not all that helpful on this one. Also from all I can tell the threaded end of the adjuster goes toward the rear of the vehicle.
Here is a little better picture of how the pin and retainers go together, as well as the return spring. You can't really see the slot I was talking about, but you can see the little tab seated in the hole with the other end of the return spring. You can also see that new actuator for the e-brake behind everything.
A new rotor hat covers everything up. I spun it by hand and pulled the lever and as long as I can get the cable adjusted properly, I think she will hold nicely.
And just for giggles I threw on the tundra wheels to see what she will look like.
I still have to do the passenger side e-brake and I will get some pictures of the overall layout without the rotor on when I do that later this week.
Other than that I have to get the calipers on and get the lines cleaned up and put back on, as well as adjust the bearing preload and button up the shafts. I will probably hit the chunk with a wire wheel and some gloss black so that it will all be nice and shiny when I roll her under the cruiser.
I also need to clean up the e-brake cable from the donor and get some bicycle cable lube on it to make sure she is slicked up for the new home.
If all goes to plan I hope to try and make the swap over the long weekend, but I am sure the
will have some honey-do's that may eat up part of that plan.Anyway, hope this is informative. If anyone would like to see something that I haven't got pictured, please let me know. I want this to be as helpful as possible to anyone who is working on one of these axles.
thanks for looking,
Tucker
- Thread starter
- #27
Thanks, and I did not end up steam cleaning it, I let everything dry out good after my brake clean bath and scrub, and after looking up into the tubes everything looks pretty clean so I am gonna go with it. I figure I will change the oil a couple times in the first few hundred miles to make sure I get anything that may still be hiding in there.
As far as paint, the housing itself got epoxy on it, everything else is getting cleaned up with a wire wheel and an 80 grit disc and then a coating of Self-Etching primer and a couple coats of Rustoleum Professional gloss black. I thought about using engine enamel, but most of those need to get up to temp to fully cure and I was afraid that I might not get there.
Hey Tucker - Do you have the part # for the backing plates you ordered?
Correction
Just finished this today and was using your pics as a guide.
The blue spring pictured should be hooked behind the adjuster, on the axle side of the parking brake shoes. Don't know if it would make much of a difference, except to make adjustment a lot easier.
Anyways, thought I'd post up for anyone else. Your pic's were very helpful. Thanks!
The original adjuster installed with a new spring. I turned the spring inboard against the adjuster. Someone might confirm if I got this right, the FSM is not all that helpful on this one. Also from all I can tell the threaded end of the adjuster goes toward the rear of the vehicle.
Just finished this today and was using your pics as a guide.
The blue spring pictured should be hooked behind the adjuster, on the axle side of the parking brake shoes. Don't know if it would make much of a difference, except to make adjustment a lot easier.
Anyways, thought I'd post up for anyone else. Your pic's were very helpful. Thanks!
X2 i just finished up my ebrake also, from factory the blue springs is behind the shoes....although not sure if you have the holes there since you used aftermarket shoes. You cannot flip the shoes because the shoe with the lever will be on the wrong side.
Good work dude.
Good work dude.
- Thread starter
- #32
Thanks for that, I still need to adjust them out one or two clicks so it will hold with a few less clicks on the lever, so I may try and swap them. I am pretty sure the little catches are on both sides of the shoes.
And SHREDwagon, sorry I didn't get back to you on the backing plate part numbers, I didn't get them new, I got them used from ACC, they just look brand new. Glad somebody got some use out of my rambling.
And SHREDwagon, sorry I didn't get back to you on the backing plate part numbers, I didn't get them new, I got them used from ACC, they just look brand new. Glad somebody got some use out of my rambling.
