Builds Fujiwara's 3 linked super daily (3 Viewers)

[Bigtoepfer]

Mine were more like Puddle Lights. But it's nice when camping too as another source of light. I didn't have any in the fenders. But I've seen some people do them just mounted magnetically, so you can move them around when working under the vehicle for light, and that seems like a neat idea.

 

[Squeegee]

Mine were more like Puddle Lights. But it's nice when camping too as another source of light. I didn't have any in the fenders. But I've seen some people do them just mounted magnetically, so you can move them around when working under the vehicle for light, and that seems like a neat idea.

I’m definitely doing the magnetic ones next. The ones on the car were like $32 on Amazon

 

[Bigtoepfer]

I don't remember what I paid at harbor freight, but it was a black friday sale or something.

 

[Squeegee]

We survived another sand hallow trip! We hit John’s trail and moved into slip lock gulch. Got denied on a lot of the v notch climbs because the sliders are so dang ol wide. Full throttle bumping the car on middle monkey didn’t help….. but it did make it so every door but one doesn’t open. I’ll post up more pictures soon

 

[Squeegee]

Lots of chaos. Lots of fun for a a two day trip

 

[Squeegee]

Before the next trip, pretty much all of the armor needs to get redone. The bumpers bent front the accident, the sliders are to wide and got me denied on most of the hard obstacles, and the rear bumpers to narrow and offers little to no protection for the rear quarters, oh and the welds on the T case skid broke and it’s flopping around

 

[Squeegee]

Oh I cut one of the sliders off! It’s very bent. The legs are spearing into the main tube. They have a hard 3 years I’m very excited that I can open my doors again

 

[baldilocks]

What’s your design plan for new sliders?

 

[Squeegee]

What’s your design plan for new sliders?

The current idea is something pretty similar style to what c4 has. It’ll have a 2x2 3/16” square tube main and legs with a 1 3/4” outers. It’s just be waaaaaaay narrower.

 

[Broski]

The current idea is something pretty similar style to what c4 has. It’ll have a 2x2 3/16” square tube main and legs with a 1 3/4” outers. It’s just be waaaaaaay narrower.

View attachment 3780203

No rocker mounted sliders ?

 

[Squeegee]

No rocker mounted sliders ?

I’m paranoid about how it impacts the structure of the A,B, and C pillars. If I do a cage it’s definitely the option I’m going with.
I’m also a little worried about bending those and them being a little too permanent. Am I thinking too much?

 

[Broski]

I’m paranoid about how it impacts the structure of the A,B, and C pillars. If I do a cage it’s definitely the option I’m going with.
I’m also a little worried about bending those and them being a little too permanent. Am I thinking too much?

Ya you’re over thinking it.
It’s just metal, can always be cut changed, fixed.
IMO it’s a game changer in a 80. The added clearance is well worth it !!

 

[cruzinfj1]

If I was gonna do mine again, currently debating on selling it, I would definitely tie mine into the rockers and the pillars. Its an 80, and its FAT, you can only get it so narrow. I have mine clocked up, but I don't see anyway to keep the body clean on these big bitches, its just part of the game.... lol I know its different out west, but if I ever build another 80 to wheel, it will get UTE cut also so I can quit worrying about the rear glass and shed about 1000#.

 

[ThreeEyedBandit]

No say here, but I choped the rockers amd built some low profile frame mounted sliders. Once you see the amount of metal down there you won't worry about it.
If/when I do it again I'd definitely just weld the sliders to the body. Lots of work cutting and re-plating the body just to add work and loose the extra 1/2" by frame mounting them.

Another vote for straight to the body.

 

[EWheeler]

No say here, but I choped the rockers amd built some low profile frame mounted sliders. Once you see the amount of metal down there you won't worry about it.
If/when I do it again I'd definitely just weld the sliders to the body. Lots of work cutting and re-plating the body just to add work and loose the extra 1/2" by frame mounting them.

Another vote for straight to the body.

Would anyone consider just welding in a 6" width of 1/2" flat bar instead of the commonly used rectangular tubing? You'd lose the ability to mount any door protection bars to the face of the weld-in slider tube, but it would gain another 1.5" of rocker clearance.

Edit: probably use T-1 plate or some other high yield steel over just plain jane A36 hot rolled flatbar.....

 

[ThreeEyedBandit]

I have a buddy that did something very similar. Welded two pieces of 1/2" plate together for a rear bumper, directly to the frame. Has worked well for many years now. Might be tricky getting enough heat into the 1/2" material without blowing through the sheet metal, at least there is enough weld area. I'd think about welding an intermediate piece of 3/16 to the body then 1/2 to that.

 

[cruzinfj1]

Not saying it wouldnt work, but I think it may look kinda goofy. Picturing it in my head, I think it would look unfinished, or like it was missing something.

 

[baldilocks]

Would anyone consider just welding in a 6" width of 1/2" flat bar instead of the commonly used rectangular tubing? You'd lose the ability to mount any door protection bars to the face of the weld-in slider tube, but it would gain another 1.5" of rocker clearance.

Edit: probably use T-1 plate or some other high yield steel over just plain jane A36 hot rolled flatbar.....

Not rigid enough. The tube is much less flexible than a solid plate while also being lighter in weight.

 

[Squeegee]

Everybody makes a good point with the body mounted slider. But at this point, I think I value having the armor be a consumable that I can beat up and replace daily easily over the gains in performance. I’ll probably notch the rocker…. I kinda hammered it already, so I can gain a little more clearance with the sliders.l but that’s probably it

 

[baldilocks]

Would you actually terminate the rear end of the slider tube and cap it like the C4 design does? Looks like it poses great potential for jamming up against obstacles while reversing.