Fuel Line Question (1 Viewer)

[sleepycruiser]

I am trying to decide if I want to run all new fuel line when I rebuild the mechanical fuel pump and put in the OEM glass housing filter. Currently the fuel line is a hodge podge of the OEM clear line mixed with black fuel hose with worm clamps holding that hose to the clear line. And then I have the hard line from the fuel pump exit to the other side of the engine bay.

My question….would it be ok to run rubber hose in place of the hard fuel line? I wasn’t sure since it will be running between the valve cover and the thermostat housing. Just wanted to know if ‘heat’ could potentially be an issue in case the rubber hose touched the thermostat housing. I’m sure I could rig up something where it wouldn’t touch.

1964 FJ40

 

[charliemeyer007]

I would do it all in new good quality hose.

 

[sleepycruiser]

I would do it all in new good quality hose.

That is what I am thinking as well. Dayco makes fuel line…Made in USA and the same ID that I would need.

 

[Skreddy]

I’d redo it. I’d also ditch any form of that glass filter shown (currently in place by valve cover before pressure regulator). I’ve heard of and seen those glass tubes break and then they spew gas all over the engine bay.

The glass Toyota one you mention is not the same. Being it’s a bowl on the bottom of a housing there’s no stress on the glass.

 

[sleepycruiser]

I’d redo it. I’d also ditch any form of that glass filter shown (currently in place by valve cover before pressure regulator). I’ve heard of and seen those glass tubes break and then they spew gas all over the engine bay.

The glass Toyota one you mention is not the same. Being it’s a bowl on the bottom of a housing there’s no stress on the glass.

Thanks. I put that one on in place of the previous plastic one that had sediment, etc in it. Temp fix until I get the OEM one in. I’d considered running both filters.

 

[rainingagain]

Redo it all back to OEM. It looks the cleanest. The bowl filter is still available from Mr T, though metal not glass. The glass part comes up for sale often enough that you could get one if needed. You have the correct bracket already.

Pics from when I redid mine:

PNW 67 Patina Blue

Overland Metric will have what you need (wasn't sure if you were asking where to find them). Bezel Screws | Marine Grade Stainless | FJ40 - https://www.overlandmetric.com/collections/stainless-hardware-kits/products/bezel-screw-79-later-marine-grade-stainless-fj40?variant=18694251271 Hey...

forum.ih8mud.com

PNW 67 Patina Blue

Here are the hold down clamps I picked up. The third one on the right is obviously not correct but that's ok, I only need 2. Anyone recognize this? Could this be a hold down clamp for the later hard lines?

forum.ih8mud.com

Here is the line that I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001OKBHES/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some pics of those brass funky fittings:

PNW 67 Patina Blue

Here are the hold down clamps I picked up. The third one on the right is obviously not correct but that's ok, I only need 2. Anyone recognize this? Could this be a hold down clamp for the later hard lines?

forum.ih8mud.com

PNW 67 Patina Blue

And voila! It's back together. It's at about this point that I realized that the saddle is to wide to fit up through the body, so back apart it came. 😭 New assembly order... ram in place in the body, then screw driver up through to hold back the clip. Done. Back in place under the...

forum.ih8mud.com

You can remake the hardline fairly easily. There's a concerning divet / dent / ding / nick it looks like in yours but we only have 1 pic. Someone cut about a foot off the end, maybe for that Weber. The hardline from OEM goes from the fuel pump to the carb. If you aren't going to replace it, ditch the gauge, regulator, and glass tube filter and go straight from the hard line to the carb without that extra 2 feet of looped hose.

Where does your vacuum advance line run? OEM was a hard line off the distributor that traced the fuel hard line path.

Also it looks like your rad hose off the water pump to the coolant pipe is weeping a bit. You might want to tighten up that clamp.

 

[sleepycruiser]

Redo it all back to OEM. It looks the cleanest. The bowl filter is still available from Mr T, though metal not glass. The glass part comes up for sale often enough that you could get one if needed. You have the correct bracket already.

Pics from when I redid mine:

PNW 67 Patina Blue

Overland Metric will have what you need (wasn't sure if you were asking where to find them). Bezel Screws | Marine Grade Stainless | FJ40 - https://www.overlandmetric.com/collections/stainless-hardware-kits/products/bezel-screw-79-later-marine-grade-stainless-fj40?variant=18694251271 Hey...

forum.ih8mud.com

PNW 67 Patina Blue

Here are the hold down clamps I picked up. The third one on the right is obviously not correct but that's ok, I only need 2. Anyone recognize this? Could this be a hold down clamp for the later hard lines?

forum.ih8mud.com

Here is the line that I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001OKBHES/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some pics of those brass funky fittings:

PNW 67 Patina Blue

Here are the hold down clamps I picked up. The third one on the right is obviously not correct but that's ok, I only need 2. Anyone recognize this? Could this be a hold down clamp for the later hard lines?

forum.ih8mud.com

PNW 67 Patina Blue

And voila! It's back together. It's at about this point that I realized that the saddle is to wide to fit up through the body, so back apart it came. 😭 New assembly order... ram in place in the body, then screw driver up through to hold back the clip. Done. Back in place under the...

forum.ih8mud.com

You can remake the hardline fairly easily. There's a concerning divet / dent / ding / nick it looks like in yours but we only have 1 pic. Someone cut about a foot off the end, maybe for that Weber. The hardline from OEM goes from the fuel pump to the carb. If you aren't going to replace it, ditch the gauge, regulator, and glass tube filter and go straight from the hard line to the carb without that extra 2 feet of looped hose.

Where does your vacuum advance line run? OEM was a hard line off the distributor that traced the fuel hard line path.

Also it looks like your rad hose off the water pump to the coolant pipe is weeping a bit. You might want to tighten up that clamp.

Thanks for the info. I think I’m going to ditch the hard line altogether. I never noticed that divot before! I have the glass housing already and all of the proper BSPT connections to replace the OEM nuts.

Is the vacuum advance line the one coming off the carb into that black plastic piece? If so that runs to the distributor.

Radiator hose…thanks. I’m getting ready to replace all of that. I have the new radiator, just want to get the fuel stuff figured out first.

 

[73FJ40]

Hard lines like OEM are the most durable and safest.

On my 73 FJ40, there is one short length of hose connected to the supply line from the tank to the fuel pump. This avoids overstress and potential for fatigue damage from differential movement between the engine and the frame.

Given the susceptibility of hose to ethanol damage, if you decide to go with all hose, avoid the generic hose and go with Gates Barricade brand hose.