FWIW, most of the tools I've seen suggested above have been items I've been able to rent at either AutoZone or Advance Auto if you want to try before you buy
Frustration with getting tie-rod ends to come out
- Thread starter sunrk
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- Thread starter
- #23
That OTC tie-rod end tool looks good I must admit. Might get one.
The other tools in that OTC # 6295 set look handy as well. Pickle fork tools are ok I suppose if you don't care about breaking the things you're trying to get apart.
The other tools in that OTC # 6295 set look handy as well. Pickle fork tools are ok I suppose if you don't care about breaking the things you're trying to get apart.
I found a technique on YouTube that worked great for me - use propane torch and focus mostly on the through-bolt, threaded area. When nice and hot spray the into the joint with penetrating oil. Something about the rapid cooling effect of the aerosol and oil going into the joint helps break things loose. I had pounded and pried on it without any movement prior. After that process it basically fell apart with the slightest tap.
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
I broke a questionable TRE - had the enclosure separate from the ball. Looked like a little trailer hitch on my steering arm. But the joint was suspect
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
I threw out my pickle fork.
Worked ok on smaller sedans, but after flogging the absolute piss out of the pickle fork with a 4lb hammer on my first 80 trying to separate TREs, it went to better place.
I'm 280lb, and a tradie who knows how to swing a hammer, if a 4lb hammer on the pickle fork wasn't enough, then seriously, it's the wrong tool.
Pittman arm puller has always worked easy
Worked ok on smaller sedans, but after flogging the absolute piss out of the pickle fork with a 4lb hammer on my first 80 trying to separate TREs, it went to better place.
I'm 280lb, and a tradie who knows how to swing a hammer, if a 4lb hammer on the pickle fork wasn't enough, then seriously, it's the wrong tool.
Pittman arm puller has always worked easy
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
I have one of these style too.
Pittman arm style puller is my preference because it easy to tighten the puller, and strike the end of the steering arm. The OTC style puller covers the end of the arm, it's more difficult to strike the arm to pop the TRE
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
You really do know how to handle a tool!
Oh yea? I bet you didn’t fork it from both sides. I have broken the silly OTC removers, so I don’t waste my money on them anymore.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
I beat it more ways than a 14yr old with his dad's Hustler mag.
I've found the landcruiser TREs really wedge in tight. More so than any other car I've dealt with. Pickle fork worked fine on anything else, but not on my 80.
The correct puller is far superior IMO, but each to their own.
This is the only thing I want a pickle fork for
I made a living in a high volume shop doing front end alignment and repair and I never had a TRE or ball joint that my fork did not get. They were out before you could get a wrench on the big $$$ gizmo that breaks. you would get fired if you too too long to do a job. I’m sorry that you did not learn to use it properly like me and Jen.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
I'm happy for you that you found yourself in such a progressive shop.
Big dollar gizmo? My puller was something like $40, pickle fork around $20-25
30 minutes pounding on a pickle fork vs grabbing a puller from the tool chest along with the 19mm wrench, pull the split pin, crack the castle nut and back it off half way, slip puller on, tighten with fingers, a few turns with a wrench, a crack on the steering arm with a hammer and it's done.
Maybe 2-3 more steps if that, 2 minutes tops.
Big dollar gizmo? My puller was something like $40, pickle fork around $20-25
30 minutes pounding on a pickle fork vs grabbing a puller from the tool chest along with the 19mm wrench, pull the split pin, crack the castle nut and back it off half way, slip puller on, tighten with fingers, a few turns with a wrench, a crack on the steering arm with a hammer and it's done.
Maybe 2-3 more steps if that, 2 minutes tops.
I too have wailed the sheep out of a pickle fork on TRE's on various makes and models from the 1950's through 1990's.
When wanting to remove a TRE to work on something else, you don't want to destroy the TRE. Unfortunately, the pickle forks wreck the boots, and separate the ball stud from.the socket because you're trying on a part that's not meant to be pried on. At the very least, you will damage the socket part of the TRE so it has an earlier failure than it should have.
Yes, tried them from both sides, flipped it over, even two forks at the same time. The jaw style has still worked EVERY time.
The only caveat is that you MUST have the correct size jaw. So, you may need 2 or 3 in varying sizes in your arsenal.
Yes, I still own a pickle fork. It is my only last resort before the torch.
When wanting to remove a TRE to work on something else, you don't want to destroy the TRE. Unfortunately, the pickle forks wreck the boots, and separate the ball stud from.the socket because you're trying on a part that's not meant to be pried on. At the very least, you will damage the socket part of the TRE so it has an earlier failure than it should have.
Yes, tried them from both sides, flipped it over, even two forks at the same time. The jaw style has still worked EVERY time.
The only caveat is that you MUST have the correct size jaw. So, you may need 2 or 3 in varying sizes in your arsenal.
Yes, I still own a pickle fork. It is my only last resort before the torch.
2nd vote for vibration. Hit it 90 degrees from the stud axis with a lighter hammer. It's the acoustic wave, not brute force.
Don't hit the stud. Hit what is holding the stud.
You might place a heavier hammer on the opposite side from where you hit, as a sort of anvil to absorb the blow.
Same idea to remove hub cone washers.
Same idea to break loose a stubborn suspension bushing in the shop press.
Pickle forking is apparently too subtle an art.
Tried forking with a '63 Chrysler in the '80s and couldn't get it off. It was frustrating for both of us.
Found out about the right angle hammer thing and never tried forking again.
But...whatever the fork works for you.
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GAWD! Looks just like the fork I had, but I couldn't figure out what to do with it!
Makes me feel so ... small
- Thread starter
- #39
I think the idea of the two-hammers method is that each hammer blow sort of acts in opposition to both free the stuck object but cancel each other out to not transfer too much energy to what the stuck object was fixed to. Does that make sense?
To use that with a pitman arm when freeing the tie-rod end from it wouldn't be easy. I happen to have a pair of lump hammers. Last time I tried the method was some years ago getting the pitman arm (same one I use now) off the old steering box I was replacing.
To use that with a pitman arm when freeing the tie-rod end from it wouldn't be easy. I happen to have a pair of lump hammers. Last time I tried the method was some years ago getting the pitman arm (same one I use now) off the old steering box I was replacing.
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mudgudgeon
Resident galah
By using two hammers, you are striking against a greater mass than just striking the steering arm with one hammer.
More force is imparted to the steering arm as it can't flex away from the hammer blow. It's sandwiched between two hammers.
