Front Wheel Binding, Front Driveshaft Removed (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 27, 2025
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santa fe
Hi H8ers,
I was on a commute this morning when I noticed a binding in my front wheels while tight turning in a gas station parking lot. I stopped, I read forums, I removed front driveshaft. I drove it again, thought it was grand. Now I'm getting the binding again, without the driveshaft. I suppose I should lift the front axle and try to spin the wheels.

There was something I did awhile back, (put an entire extra tube of grease in the balls) hoping that's not the problem.

Does anyone have suggestions as to what I am looking for now?

Thanks,
David
 
A binding as in it was difficult to steer past a certain point? If so, was did it feel the same in both directions? Any associated noises?
 
A binding as in it was difficult to steer past a certain point? If so, was did it feel the same in both directions? Any associated noises?
Hi baldilocks,
Turning tight definitely, but even turning at half-radius feels unwell. it binds in both directions. i'll double check that when I go back outside. there is some real light clicking, not even sure I hear it correctly. Both directions. Again, i'll double check that again. I'm at school and in their parking lot. If I had to, I could leave it here tonight. but I live twenty miles away, so, yuck. But destroying my truck, bigger yuck.
 
A binding as in it was difficult to steer past a certain point? If so, was did it feel the same in both directions? Any associated noises?
At least one of the wheels is falling off at the hub. taking the wheel off the investigate
 
Post a picture of what you're working with. Are you talking about the wheel bearings having play?
Hi Mandrake,
I'll grab a pic soon as I'm back at it, but best answer i have is maybe. I'm not sure how much play I should have if any. I took the wheel off and found I had play in the hub, I could move the brake rotor about 1/16-1/8" on the side opposite the caliper.

I don't know jack, so I don't know 1) if that's even bad 2) if it could cause the binding in the front wheels.

I took the driveshaft out this am and thought I had fixed it. The wheels wouldn't bind just because they aren't "in sync" with the rear, would they?
 
I'm just panicking and jumping to conclusions. Not for no reason, but I'm not helping myself any.
 
@ghostofamerica said:

"I noticed a binding in my front wheels while tight turning ----I removed front driveshaft. I drove it again ----I'm getting the binding again, without the driveshaft"


Questions:

Did you lock the CDL after removing the front driveshaft?
Have you been driving the vehicle previously with a driveshaft removed?
Do all your tires match (size)?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Either way, if you have a US FZJ80 with the HF2AV transfer case (which came with all US spec models) then you should not be able to drive with one driveshaft removed unless the Center Diff Lock (CDL) is engaged (or if the viscous coupler is frozen).

If you can drive the vehicle and now it feels like it's binding it may mean that your viscous coupler (inside the transfer case) is sticking/binding ie: damaged from too much heat/friction internally.

The long term fix is to either replace or remove the viscous coupler inside the transfer case.

As a test you can lock the CDL (see below) to see if the vehicle drives better (no binding) with the front driveshaft removed.

Procedure to lock the CDL (in models that don't have the Diff Lock button or 7-pin Modification):

First turn the ignition key to ON (or start the vehicle).
Shift the transfer case to LO and leave it there
Turn the vehicle/engine OFF
Remove the large square yellow/orange 30A DIFF LOCK fuse from the dash fuse box, bottom right, and leave it out
Shift the Transfer case back to HI
Start the vehicle
Two indicator/warning lights should come on, ABS and DIFF LOCK, which mean the CDL is locked and ABS has been disabled.
Drive the vehicle to see if it makes a difference when driving/turning

FZJ80 dash fuse box showing Diff Lock fuse.webp
 
Last edited:
@Mandrake and @Kernal There is some funky stuff going on.

I don't understand how the hub nut could have come loose. It has a keyed ring with two set screws. Those set screws BTW have have their heads half shined off. I suppose they were rubbing against something, but there was enough head to hold the ring in place. the phillips slot was completely rubbed off. I had to use needle nose to turn them.

It was driving fine yesterday. How could the nuts possibly loosen overnight?

I pulled the driveshaft and locked the center diff. I happily have a switch for that. Vehicle drives, for now, however.

I tightened the hub nut to the point where the hub spins well, but doesn't wiggle. That was on the pass side, where I heard the noise. I checked the drvr side and that wheel doesn't wiggle much. Only had time to open one hub tonight. I drove home with the radio off, listening. I didn't hear much on the highway, or while driving forward, even when doing a few tight radius turns. When I backed into the driveway, the pass side wheel bound and made a big thud as I backed into my parking spot. Shook the whole truck. So, IDK.

I'm thinking, maybe if something else inside the hub were disintegrating, the nut could be loosened by having less behind it. I saw no immediate evidence of this, but was doing a parking lot, get me home attempt at things. I didn't pull the bearing, as I didn't have any grease on me.

Mentioning the grease, there should be plenty of grease inside the birf ball, because on the last panic session, I pumped an entire tube into each one, thinking they were dry. That turned out to be the driveshaft bolts.

I don't think I'll drive it tomorrow. Not worth it to go to a Dr appointment if I destroy the truck to get there.

Quoting @Kernal :
"If you can drive the vehicle and now it feels like it's binding it may mean that your viscous coupler (inside the transfer case) is sticking/binding ie: damaged from too much heat/friction internally."

Responding: I am fairly certain that the binding is in the front, with no front driveshaft. When I took the front driveshaft out and locked the center diff, the truck did drive better, but then deteriorated again over the next hour of driving. I will probably remove the VC because of the initial improvement, and all the threads saying that they fail and can be discarded. That still leaves me with the front wheel binding issue.

Thanks to both of you for your help.
David
 
When I backed into the driveway, the pass side wheel bound and made a big thud as I backed into my parking spot. Shook the whole truck. So, IDK.

Could be the wheel bearing failure but based on previous symptoms with steering you posted my guess is a trunnion bearing.
 
If the tabs on the washer were not bent correctly to lock then it can happen, LHS side will loosen RHS will tighten
@robnicko yes, it's interesting that so many vids and replies mention these tabs. Mine doesn't have them. It has a keyway on the shaft, and a keyed lock ring that bolts to the nut.
 
Okay, long day. signing off for the night. I'll check back tomorrow after I lift the rear and spin those wheels, google how to check a trunnnion bearing, get some grease and check the wheel bearing, and anything else that pops up on this thread overnight.

Thank you all for your input
 
How much grease was in the hub around the locking nuts? Those locking nuts hold the wheel bearings. This should be a fairly greasy mess. If it was clean, the bearing could be bad however my guess is there's a problem with the birfield since the problem only happens when turning. A bad bearing would cause problems going straight. A bad birfield could have problems turning or going straight.
 

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