Front Flex? (2 Viewers)

[tlc81]

nice shocks: How muchy?

Christo, How much are the direct bolt in shocks just out of curiousity? I think we all want to know, just cause they look soooooo nice.

Woud the 2" longer shocks give me any extra travel on my 80 front end set up with my OME 2.5" lift or would I need to relocate top mount?
How does one know when they have overcompressed or is this why you dont really offer them?

Thanks,
STF

Unless you start changing links, you are pretty much stuck with what you got. Most of what can be done has been covered in this thread.

This is essentially a stock 80 suspension setup with long travel shocks and shock mount positions moved. These were 14" (I think) travel Rancho shocks with both the front and rear top shock mount positions moved upwards so that we had place for them to compress. This was running about 4" of springs, captured on top and the bottom. Obviously no swaybars, but I think this shows have far the link setup can be pushed if need be.

We do have bolt in shocks that are 2" longer than OME that we offer to people. We do not include them standard due to limited supply and people need to make sure with a longer shock that you do not over compress as well as make sure the spring does not become unseated. That is why we do not list them with the kit. We also have access to these direct bolt in shocks that have swivel pins at the ends to ensure that there is no side loading on the pins. However they are a pretty high $ option. These are the same shocks that Ben ran on his XRRA racing truck last year. We did the testing on that truck to determine reliability.

 

[tlc81]

Hey Nay,
Did you get the price back from SE yet. Intested to know cost.

I just put in a price inquiry to SE - with the AU$ exchange rates, this could be an interestingly priced option.

 

[Nay]

dang, it's amazing how was seems perfect when you're 10 miles away from your truck, doesn't seem to line up right when you grab the parts.

could still do it with stock parts, just would have to use 2 arms to make one, cause I think the cut point you would have to use to get the top part long enough is just about at the edge or the middle of the 2nd bushing hole.

Maybe grab a radius arm from a dodge FSP to sacrifice?

or another LC arm I guess

Search Results


the ram arm might be longer though in that area - maybe I can get out and scrounge a yard next weekend...

Take a look at the potential interference of welding on the upper mount in the area of the spring perch. SE's design does not require this as it brings the upper mount out of the bolted on replacement brackets.

This is why most 3-links have the upper mount angled in from the lower so the mount is inside the spring perch - not sure of that compromises the design as you can certainly angle the upper arm bracket off the lower arm to point it in, but something to look at before scouring the boneyard as angling in the upper arm would be a differentiated design from what SE has done without in my mind a clean idea of the potential impacts.

 

[Nay]

Hey Nay,
Did you get the price back from SE yet. Intested to know cost.

Not yet - they emailed me back immediately to ask for my shipping address to quote freight, and then I didn't hear back after providing it. I'll prod 'em again.

 

[Nay]

Christo, How much are the direct bolt in shocks just out of curiousity? I think we all want to know, just cause they look soooooo nice.

Woud the 2" longer shocks give me any extra travel on my 80 front end set up with my OME 2.5" lift or would I need to relocate top mount?
How does one know when they have overcompressed or is this why you dont really offer them?

Thanks,
STF

No way you could run a shock that is potentially causing compressed length issues on a 6" lift on a 2.5" lift and they wouldn't do anything for your front end because the shocks aren't limiting travel up front.

If you want a shock like this at your lift height, look at the Bilstein 7100 short body.

[edit: I just reread and it looks like there may be two different shock options]

 

[Hayes]

Woud the 2" longer shocks give me any extra travel on my 80 front end set up with my OME 2.5" lift or would I need to relocate top mount?
How does one know when they have overcompressed or is this why you dont really offer them?

Thanks,
STF

I don't think the 2" longer shocks will give you any extra travel--as has been pointed out in this thread and many others, the shocks are not really the limiting factor on 80 front end travel, it's the fundamental configuration of front suspension. The radius arms are limiting. If you've removed/installed front coils in an 80 you know what I mean. Even with the shocks unbolted, it's really hard to get the axle to articulate beyond a certain point.

You can bolt-in L-shocks that will provide 1" additional shock travel over the standard OME shocks. Many folks have been running L-shocks for many years. Their value on the front end is mostly in spacing the front end travel down overall when using bumpstops to run larger tires.

Short version of the story: You can't really gain much in front end travel without a fundamental redesign of the front end.

 

[sleeoffroad]

it could be that converting the 80 rear to leafs would be a natural transfer of suspension stability to the rear along with the load bearing properties of leaf springs.

And deal with all the axle wrap issues that come with that. No tanks.

 

[sleeoffroad]

Christo, How much are the direct bolt in shocks just out of curiousity? I think we all want to know, just cause they look soooooo nice.

$400 per shock.

Woud the 2" longer shocks give me any extra travel on my 80 front end set up with my OME 2.5" lift or would I need to relocate top mount?

You might overcompress them in certain conditions.

How does one know when they have overcompressed or is this why you dont really offer them?
Thanks,
STF

When you break them You really need to measure it out. and flex the truck up and check clearances.

 

[Nay]

And deal with all the axle wrap issues that come with that. No tanks.

That's what a traction bar is for.

I'm not going to do it - been down the road of trying to make a rig something that it isn't and it is rarely ever anything more than throwing good money after bad.

But we are going to see some 80's push the envelop on the way to the parts yard, and may as well get the ideas out there to see who might guinea pig a good one

 

[kidglove13]

do you think that making the radius arms a little narrower would help free up some of the binding?

 

[Nay]

do you think that making the radius arms a little narrower would help free up some of the binding?

No - it is the fore/aft compression of the bushings that creates the bind before the arms hit the mounts.

 

[Walking Eagle]

That is some great Red-neck inginuity

Do you think one could achieve a solid enough weld to make it reliable?

yep. I'd weld all the way around, then, I'd put those triangle plates on either side, do a full weld on each of those, and possibly even do a third piece on top of the triangles, if for no other reason to cap it all. Look at the red plate - shape would have to be tweaked to allow proper clearance, could tell better after cutting the front off one arm. Maybe I'll look closer at it tomorrow when the wheel and knuckle are out of the way. Ready to donate some arms?

 

[Walking Eagle]

Take a look at the potential interference of welding on the upper mount in the area of the spring perch. SE's design does not require this as it brings the upper mount out of the bolted on replacement brackets.

This is why most 3-links have the upper mount angled in from the lower so the mount is inside the spring perch - not sure of that compromises the design as you can certainly angle the upper arm bracket off the lower arm to point it in, but something to look at before scouring the boneyard as angling in the upper arm would be a differentiated design from what SE has done without in my mind a clean idea of the potential impacts.

You have totally missed the boat Nay. I'm talking doing plates like SE for the upper mount, and then just making my own arms out of two stock arms, for no other reason than I know I have two and so does the guy starting this thread - well, that and I think you'll find the shipping from Oz to be more than most want to pay. Since I already have the arms, or could pick up another for $20-$30, and have 20' of 10" wide 3/16 plate in the garage, and 5' of 1/4" x 12", I pretty much can do it all with stuff I already have just as a proof of concept.

 

[Walking Eagle]

I don't think the 2" longer shocks will give you any extra travel--as has been pointed out in this thread and many others, the shocks are not really the limiting factor on 80 front end travel, it's the fundamental configuration of front suspension. The radius arms are limiting..

just to be nit picky, the radius arms aren't limiting travel, they limit articulation.

 

[Nay]

You have totally missed the boat Nay. I'm talking doing plates like SE for the upper mount, and then just making my own arms out of two stock arms, for no other reason than I know I have two and so does the guy starting this thread - well, that and I think you'll find the shipping from Oz to be more than most want to pay. Since I already have the arms, or could pick up another for $20-$30, and have 20' of 10" wide 3/16 plate in the garage, and 5' of 1/4" x 12", I pretty much can do it all with stuff I already have just as a proof of concept.

Yes, I missed that phantom assumptions boat on you making up a set of plates

Give it a shot with the stock arms and post up the result. It's been discussed before and nobody has actually tried it.

With the exchange rates to Oz, I don't think shipping will be terribly material, my guess is the arms will still cost the better part of $750 and that is way too much.

Very curious to see if you can mock them up

 

[kidglove13]

I would definitly like to see the end result of your creation.
Might have to pick me up a set of arms myself.

 

[ravencr]

Is it a dumb question to ask why the joint on the frame wouldn't be a JJ or RE style joint to allow for the necessary rotation of the LCA?

Chris

 

[ravencr]

Or a joint like the gyro joint: American Expedition Vehicles (AEV) - Nth Degree - AEV's new line of suspension components - Technical Specifications

Chris

 

[CruiserDave]

Yes, I missed that phantom assumptions boat on you making up a set of plates

Give it a shot with the stock arms and post up the result. It's been discussed before and nobody has actually tried it.

With the exchange rates to Oz, I don't think shipping will be terribly material, my guess is the arms will still cost the better part of $750 and that is way too much.

Very curious to see if you can mock them up

I think I read that those SE arms are more like $1200, which is absurd.
Here is a link to the SE arms with pictures:
Offroad 80's • View topic - SuperFlex radius arms for cruisers - at last!

 

[sleeoffroad]

Why is the price of the arms absurd. Have you tried to actually get a set made and tested? I am amazed that people first reaction to something that is expensive is that it is absurd. They probably cost a pretty penny to make.

Now you can say that they are not worth it for the average wheeler, that is fine, but unless you can produce those for significantly less, I would say that the price is not out of line. This is from someone that already makes arms and knows what is involved.