Front diff leaks?

[thebeedeegee]

I refilled the diff and took it for a ride. everything seems like it was before. There is actually some back and forth play in the passenger CV as well (more than the driver side I swapped) so maybe it's down to aftermarket CVs.

No leaks yet, we'll see what happens

 

[AlpineAccess]

I refilled the diff and took it for a ride. everything seems like it was before. There is actually some back and forth play in the passenger CV as well (more than the driver side I swapped) so maybe it's down to aftermarket CVs.

No leaks yet, we'll see what happens

The aftermarket CV - is it moving in and out or is it torsional?

 

[thebeedeegee]

The aftermarket CV - is it moving in and out or is it torsional?

in and out slightly. if I grab the axle I can pull it out further by about 2mm with the clip in.

passenger side, that I haven't touched is the same. actually less movement on the driver side with the new C clip with the tire on. I can barely shift that one at all now

 

[AlpineAccess]

in and out slightly. if I grab the axle I can pull it out further by about 2mm with the clip in.

passenger side, that I haven't touched is the same. actually less movement on the driver side with the new C clip with the tire on. I can barely shift that one at all now

You'll want to address that. The "sawing" action back and forth on the splines is going to cause premature wear. If you NEED to, put another c-clip on there. I'd recommend replacing the axle. Check out your local forum and see if you can find a factory CV that you can get a rebuild kit for - or pick up a CVJ axle.

 

[thebeedeegee]

You'll want to address that. The "sawing" action back and forth on the splines is going to cause premature wear. If you NEED to, put another c-clip on there. I'd recommend replacing the axle. Check out your local forum and see if you can find a factory CV that you can get a rebuild kit for - or pick up a CVJ axle.

Yeah it's definitely not ideal. I think I'm going to wait for them to go bad and replace with OEM on both sides and new hub flanges. I just don't feel like spending all that money right now....those damn CV's are expensive. Where is the best place to get them? Price I saw looked like about $850- 900 for the pair

At least my diff isn't leaking now so it looks like I got at least the seal done right. The wheel bearing grease looked pretty cruddy so that's my next job. Replace both front bearings

 

[AlpineAccess]

Yeah it's definitely not ideal. I think I'm going to wait for them to go bad and replace with OEM on both sides and new hub flanges. I just don't feel like spending all that money right now....those damn CV's are expensive. Where is the best place to get them? Price I saw looked like about $850- 900 for the pair

At least my diff isn't leaking now so it looks like I got at least the seal done right. The wheel bearing grease looked pretty cruddy so that's my next job. Replace both front bearings

OEM CV's are pricey, no way around it. Depending on your use (non-lifted) for example, you can get by with aftermarket CV's but I'd read up on what people use. Most here will recommend OEM, particularly if you want to put a lot of miles (or hard use) on your LC. Pricing sounds about right.

Great deal on the seal, they aren't the easiest job to get right the first time - congrats on getting that knocked out. Not a minor job.

The wheel bearing grease is a great thing to replace; although appearances can be deceiving. If the hubs are packed full of grease, these things can go a really long time. Its an unfortunate reality that many don't get changed for over 100k, but as long as the pretension is set properly and they aren't chattering around in there (rare but happens) you can just repack the grease, crank everything down and run them.

At 180k I did bearings and races just for the hell of it, but regret putting the time and money into the job. After I finished and buttoned everything up I brought my bearings and races to my neighbors (he got his A&P in mid 1980's - and is going on over 30 years now as an aircraft mechanic). He said they looked very good when looking at them by eye. He then threw them under a scope and said they looked VERY good for their age and he wouldn't have replaced them as they showed very little wear.

 

[saucebox]

OEM CV's are pricey, no way around it. Depending on your use (non-lifted) for example, you can get by with aftermarket CV's but I'd read up on what people use. Most here will recommend OEM, particularly if you want to put a lot of miles (or hard use) on your LC. Pricing sounds about right.

Great deal on the seal, they aren't the easiest job to get right the first time - congrats on getting that knocked out. Not a minor job.

The wheel bearing grease is a great thing to replace; although appearances can be deceiving. If the hubs are packed full of grease, these things can go a really long time. Its an unfortunate reality that many don't get changed for over 100k, but as long as the pretension is set properly and they aren't chattering around in there (rare but happens) you can just repack the grease, crank everything down and run them.

At 180k I did bearings and races just for the hell of it, but regret putting the time and money into the job. After I finished and buttoned everything up I brought my bearings and races to my neighbors (he got his A&P in mid 1980's - and is going on over 30 years now as an aircraft mechanic). He said they looked very good when looking at them by eye. He then threw them under a scope and said they looked VERY good for their age and he wouldn't have replaced them as they showed very little wear.

I did the same, also around 180K. Doh!

@thebeedeegee if your current axles are OEM, you can buy the outer tulips/joints for about half or less. Then you can rebuild just the worn half of the CVs using OEM parts. The cost difference is made up in labor though.

 

[BigZPatt]

Toyota of Coolsprings TN has always had great prices on OEM stuff. That's where I buy my parts.
Here's the link for the 100 series (Mine is a '99) - Axle Shafts & Joints for 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser | toyotacool

 

[thebeedeegee]

Toyota of Coolsprings TN has always had great prices on OEM stuff. That's where I buy my parts.
Here's the link for the 100 series (Mine is a '99) - Axle Shafts & Joints for 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser | toyotacool

nice thanks, looks like a CV axle assembly is $404 from there. what's weird is just the CV itself is 500?

 

[thebeedeegee]

Just as a final update I drove her about 80 miles today with a few miles offroad and no leaks.

Thanks for all the help everyone

 

[2020 Rocks]

Question regarding leaks, I just filled my front diff after replacing ds seal and cv axle, and it is now leaking. My truck is up on jack stands, if I overfilled the diff, could that be the cause of the leak? I took a lot of care when setting the oil seal, kind of a shame that I am probably going to have to pull axle and replace with new seal....again.

 

[thebeedeegee]

Question regarding leaks, I just filled my front diff after replacing ds seal and cv axle, and it is now leaking. My truck is up on jack stands, if I overfilled the diff, could that be the cause of the leak? I took a lot of care when setting the oil seal, kind of a shame that I am probably going to have to pull axle and replace with new seal....again.

I dont think you can overfill the diff. Just fill it until it starts coming out fill hole.

I seated mine barely flush with the little lip in there. do you have a picture?

 

[2020 Rocks]

I dont think you can overfill the diff. Just fill it until it starts coming out fill hole.

I seated mine barely flush with the little lip in there. do you have a picture?

Not yet, I now have to take it apart to get back in there. I was just about to put the tires back on and take it for a test drive. If you seat the seal too deeply can it be pulled out a little and not leak, or do you have to us a new seal?

 

[2001LC]

Very easy to check if over filled, but those leaks take time to appear. Just pull fill plug and let drain until it stop coming out. Do this cold or warm, not when hot.

Often times while installing the front drive shaft (FDS) the seal gets knock in on one side or the other. It will than leak. If seal cavity of diff, not lube during replacement or seal not greased before FDS install, they may leaks.

Also look to make sure FDS is seated all the way into diff. The dust shield of FDS, will be just inside diff. Then try to pull FDS out by hand, it should not come out more than a few MM.


If you must re-due the seal. You can do short cut way.

You can level or pull the seal to get square. Here I'm levering off the inner shaft of diff pushing on steel plate on back side of DS seal.

 

[2020 Rocks]

Geeze, maybe all is not lost. Thought for sure I had popped the cv in all the way... guess not.

 

[2020 Rocks]

So, any clever tricks to pop her in without unnecessary disassembly if things. If I just drop upper ball joint maybe I can pivot it in all the way?

 

[thebeedeegee]

I was able to pop it in with the upper ball joint loose. I'm really surprised it didnt click in when you lifted the knuckle and reattached it.

You may have to undo the c clip to get it to click in, then lift the knuckle back up, attach that and then reinstall the C clip

 

[thebeedeegee]

Very easy to check if over filled, but those leaks take time to appear. Just pull fill plug and let drain until it stop coming out. Do this cold or warm, not when hot.

Often times while installing the front drive shaft (FDS) the seal gets knock in on one side or the other. It will than leak. It seal cavity not lube during replacement or seal greased before FDS install, leaks are common.
View attachment 2300775

Also look to make sure FDS is seated all the way into diff. The dust shield of FDS, will be just inside diff. Then try to pull FDS out by hand, it should not come out more than a few MM.


If you must re-due the seal. You can do short cut way.
View attachment 2300774

You can level or pull the seal to get square. Here I'm levering off the inner shaft of diff pushing on steel plate on back side of DS seal.
View attachment 2300778
View attachment 2300780

View attachment 2300779

So you can overfill the diff? hmm, I may have to pull my fill plug and let any excess drain just to be safe

 

[2020 Rocks]

Thinking about gently jacking up lower control arm and see if it seats that way.

 

[2020 Rocks]

So you can overfill the diff? hmm, I may have to pull my fill plug and let any excess drain just to be safe

I think it’s only possible if the vehicle is jacked up at a steep angle sort of deal.