Front diff leaks? (3 Viewers)

[Brandon Ryder]

I do have driveline clunk that I suspected was the bushing on the diff. mounts since I saw them shift when moving from P to D. Seemed to be where the noise was coming from. I may have to look into new hub flanges

could be diff mount. depends on severity. mine was completely cured by new cv and flange. btw it seems common that the driver side cv sees a lot more wear than the passenger side. i saw the driver side wear on my splines and assumed the passenger side was the same. but passenger side was almost unworn while the driver side was close to stripping.
severely worn splines and flange. flange splines look like sand dunes.

see how sharp the splines are?

new axle splines.

new flange.

compare the movement in the axle to the hub. that's worn splines.


now see the difference


you can check this too by videoing the movement. you'll see where the movement is coming from.

 

[Mike NXP]

I looked under the truck and since I popped the top of my breather it hasn't seeped anymore. I'm going to drive it a little tomorrow and see if it leaks anymore before I order the seal. Or would the pressure build up cause the seal to fail anyway?

Is the front diff breather pretty easy to locate?

 

[thebeedeegee]

Is the front diff breather pretty easy to locate?

Yeah I was already under truck so I felt around the diff and found it, then followed it up. It is sticking up toward the passenger side of the engine bay just behind the hose going from the resonator to the air filter box. It has a metal cap on top of it.

 

[Mike NXP]

Yeah I was already under truck so I felt around the diff and found it, then followed it up. It is sticking up toward the passenger side of the engine bay just behind the hose going from the resonator to the air filter box. It has a metal cap on top of it.

Thanks, I ordered a new breather for front and rear. Rear was easy but found myself scrambling for the front.

Thanks for the heads up, I will look in engine bay area.

 

[Hokie99]

These seals do not often just go bad on their own. So I'd be inclined to watch for seepage after breather cleared and gear lube flushed. If seal still weeps, I'd add 2.35 oz. of AT-205. Watch for seepage again, after 5 or more hours driving time. If still leaking/weeping, I'd then go ahead and replace the seal. If close to wheel bearing service, combine with diff tube seal job. Doing a knuckle service at same time.

If doing just the diff tube seal. You can do without disconnection the TRE.

Note: If any signs of water in gear lube. I'd use some cheap gear lube and re-flush after a short drive to warm up. Then add the quality gear lube and AT-205.

I also agree on the ATP 205....it has saved forum members thousands upon thousands of dollars in steering rack repairs!

 

[Skidoo]

Went out to check the mail today and saw a puddle of fluid under the 100....

about a week ago I did start to cross a creek but I backed out once water started coming over the hood. Didn't start leaking until today though.

I have been in deep mud which damaged my seals, so if stream bed had mud or fine sand that got to the seal, it could be the cause.

 

[thebeedeegee]

I have been in deep mud which damaged my seals, so if stream bed had mud or fine sand that got to the seal, it could be the cause.

Yeah that is probably what happened. I didn't notice it until I took it to a car wash and power sprayed the mud out from under it so that definitely didn't help. May have forced some dirt past the seal?

Either way how much of this stuff would you put in to see if it stops the leak? it says do the whole bottle....

 

[Brandon Ryder]

don't use that stuff. take it back and get at-205. i got it at car quest.

edit: also highly doubt the wash hurt the seal. there is a substantial metal dust seal right before the seal to protect it. submerged axle would get water past this seal but just spraying shouldn't.

 

[AlpineAccess]

As a precaution; I'd drain gear lube inspect for water.

I was waiting for someone to say this as I read through this thread.

If you pull water into the diff via having clogged breather hoses, and then you drive around with a milk shake in the diff its likely holding way more fluid than it can disperse the pressure on. Weak link is the axle seal, it gets forced by it.

Personally, I'd pull my breather line at the diff and stick my air compressor chuck in it. Drop the pressure on your regulator down to 5-10 PSI and if you can't push air through them I'd pull the breather caps and soak them in a cleaning solvent like carb/brake cleaner.

The rest of the advice here is spot on, just be aware to read up on how to install that axle seal, plenty of people go to a lot of work onto to screw it up and have a leak back right away. Needs to be flush, and you need to support the CV with something as you guide it in and tap it in until it locks.

If you drain the fluid and its full of water/mud/sandy looking debris, get a couple quarts of the super cheap gear lube (doesn't need to be the right weight, just close) for after you get the seal in. Fill the diff with that first, go drive a 10-20 miles or so and drain it again before putting in the gear lube that's living in the diff for the next 30k.

 

[AimCOtaco]

Cruiser Outfitters sells a cir-clip assortment so grab that and you'll have what you need on hand vs guessing or running back to Toyota. Its a good deal and saves lots of time... every time you do a wheel bearing re-pack you should be checking/changing circlips anyway so great to have on hand IMHO.

 

[thebeedeegee]

definitely got water intrusion. fluid looks like a light brown milkshake.

is this amount of metal worrisome?

 

[AlpineAccess]

definitely got water intrusion. fluid looks like a light brown milkshake.

is this amount of metal worrisome?

View attachment 2291210

View attachment 2291211

That's fine. No worries.

 

[nissanh]

I just did that seal With CV's just 2 days ago

Super easy to replace.

LIft the truck and put it on jack stands and place the removed tire under the truck.

Go under the truck and tap the CV out of its housing (watch for oil):

Just remove the ABS wire plug inside the engine bay and 12 mm bolts holding the wire to knuckle/upper control arm and then the UPPER ball joint. Yes, that's it!!

Move the knuckle and CV axle away from the diff. At the same time grab the inner joint by hand and pull it out of the diff housing. It will come from the top of the diff housing (12 O clock)

Remove and replace the seal.

Installation is reverse. Make sure the CV is inserted compltely into the housing. USE OEM Oil seal.

I did both sides with this method.

Super easy...

 

[nissanh]

I do have driveline clunk that I suspected was the bushing on the diff. mounts since I saw them shift when moving from P to D. Seemed to be where the noise was coming from. I may have to look into new hub flanges

In addition to worn out bushings if you have aftermarket CV's as the CV's shown at the beginning of this thread, then you will have lots of free play at all joints in the CV.

 

[nissanh]

this is 2001LC method.


his related thread.

Scored 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series.

Grease is for things that need to move... Bolts need to move...LOL The grease you see me using today is Red-N-Tacky. I use marine grease (MG) also, but the MG stuff I've been getting lately has been to thin. This Red is designed to hold in place without breaking down, doesn't wash out and has...

forum.ih8mud.com

basically you pull out the axle as far as possible and put the biggest snap ring that will fit. they come in .2mm increments.

btw do you have a driveline clunk from reverse to drive? hopefully not. and by using propper snap ring you can help prevent the clunk. clunk comes from worn splines in the cv shaft. if you have a little play, a new flange can help tighten it up. too much play and you'll need a new cv shaft. ask me how i know!

A tiny correction: the clunk is coming from worn splines. The C-clip is to give some room for the bronze bushing to lubricate.

I tested the C-clip gap by simply installing the tire with all 5 nuts and prying the 12 mm bolt attached to the end of the CV.

Two more C- clip sizes are available:
1.8 mm is 9052031010
2.0 mm is 9052031009 ( worked for me) NEW OEM CV axle and OEM flange with OEM gasket: Truck has 237K miles

 

[SlowBuild]

The C-clip is to give some room for the bronze bushing to lubricate.

Hmmmm?
In my memory, C-clip holds the shaft in tight to the knuckle assembly, preventing longitudinal movement that can wear splines over time. This clip should be as tight as possible; brass(?) bushing wants to be sandwiched very tight, no extra room. In fact, as bushing, etc wears, c-clip should be stepped up (fatter) to take up the slack and ensure a more snug fit. @Brandon Ryder didn’t specifically spell out how this happens but I don’t think he was wrong.

 

[thebeedeegee]

I just did that seal With CV's just 2 days ago

Super easy to replace.

LIft the truck and put it on jack stands and place the removed tire under the truck.

Go under the truck and tap the CV out of its housing (watch for oil):

Just remove the ABS wire plug inside the engine bay and 12 mm bolts holding the wire to knuckle/upper control arm and then the UPPER ball joint. Yes, that's it!!

Move the knuckle and CV axle away from the diff. At the same time grab the inner joint by hand and pull it out of the diff housing. It will come from the top of the diff housing (12 O clock)

Remove and replace the seal.

Installation is reverse. Make sure the CV is inserted compltely into the housing. USE OEM Oil seal.

I did both sides with this method.

Super easy...

Did you have a lot of trouble getting the CV back in? Was it hard to get it past the seal and seated properly without messing up the seal? What did you use to seat the seal to the proper depth?

I've ordered the seal and some new C-clips for the outboard end of the CV that will be here Monday.

EDIT
Am I reading your response correctly in that you did not have to remove the C-clip and pull the outboard end of the axle out of the hub?

 

[AlpineAccess]

Did you have a lot of trouble getting the CV back in? Was it hard to get it past the seal and seated properly without messing up the seal? What did you use to seat the seal to the proper depth?

I've ordered the seal and some new C-clips for the outboard end of the CV that will be here Monday.

EDIT
Am I reading your response correctly in that you did not have to remove the C-clip and pull the outboard end of the axle out of the hub?

Easy to put cv back in. Spin the c clip on the axle shaft until the cut end is facing down. Then take a dab of wheel bearing grease and smear it onto the top of the c clip to keep it from spinning. Line it up, apply some slow pressure, and then give it a good shove. If the c clip isnt centered you'll find the CV very uncooperative.

If it doesn't go in that way, check the clip is centered, and get a friend to help. Put some pressure inward on it (so CV is compressed completely) and using a block of wood to protect the end of the CV/splines have them give a couple of taps with a small deadblow. Don't go hauling off on this thing as you can damage the CV joints.

I've removed and reinstalled CVS over a dozen times on various IFS Toyotas, including my land cruiser a few times. You will HAVE to remove the CV from the hub. What people try to get away with is not entirely disconnecting the spindle.

I find this puts the CV at high risk of damaging the spindle bearing and is just a huge PITA when you can remove the spindle/hub in a fraction of the time and have way more room to work.

A coat hanger or a length of 12/14 gauge three strand home electrical wire works great to hold the CV in place while you reassemble everything.
A five gallon bucket is the right height to slide/ transfer the spindle/brake/hub to after removing it if you're working solo.

 

[thebeedeegee]

Easy to put cv back in. Spin the c clip on the axle shaft until the cut end is facing down. Then take a dab of wheel bearing grease and smear it onto the top of the c clip to keep it from spinning. Line it up, apply some slow pressure, and then give it a good shove. If the c clip isnt centered you'll find the CV very uncooperative.

If it doesn't go in that way, check the clip is centered, and get a friend to help. Put some pressure inward on it (so CV is compressed completely) and using a block of wood to protect the end of the CV/splines have them give a couple of taps with a small deadblow. Don't go hauling off on this thing as you can damage the CV joints.

I've removed and reinstalled CVS over a dozen times on various IFS Toyotas, including my land cruiser a few times. You will HAVE to remove the CV from the hub. What people try to get away with is not entirely disconnecting the spindle.

I find this puts the CV at high risk of damaging the spindle bearing and is just a huge PITA when you can remove the spindle/hub in a fraction of the time and have way more room to work.

A coat hanger or a length of 12/14 gauge three strand home electrical wire works great to hold the CV in place while you reassemble everything.
A five gallon bucket is the right height to slide/ transfer the spindle/brake/hub to after removing it if you're working solo.

I still have a couple of questions before I get started. I got my parts today so I'm going to give it a go this afternoon or tonight.

What gap are you looking for with those feeler gauges? Is there a spec amount of space that is allowable between the C-clip and hub flange once it's in? Do you just get the biggest one possible in and that's it? The feeler gauge is what confused me.

Do I need a special tool to thread the bolt into the end of the axle to pull it out, or can I just use the correct size and pitch bolt?

Do I need to replace the C clip on the inboard side of the CV axle?

 

[Skidoo]

Don't have the spec for the feeler gauge handy but expect a post here has it.
Just a bolt and visegrips to get some leverage.
A new inboard C-clip is a good idea, have done mine without replacing. With a new one, you know its the proper size and not tired.
Same with the hub flange C-clip it can get stretched when removed. If you are comfortable that you can judge condition of clip, folks do reuse them.
There are lots of different types of clip pliers, but you need one like this to minimize damage to clips.
Clip Pliers