Front diff leaks? (2 Viewers)

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Did you have a lot of trouble getting the CV back in? Was it hard to get it past the seal and seated properly without messing up the seal? What did you use to seat the seal to the proper depth?

I've ordered the seal and some new C-clips for the outboard end of the CV that will be here Monday.

EDIT
Am I reading your response correctly in that you did not have to remove the C-clip and pull the outboard end of the axle out of the hub?
1st question: No trouble at all. Just moved the knuckle away from the truck to make room and then by hand, I pulled the inboard tulip more towards the CV axle shaft (in other words compress the inner boot) and slid in the axle from the top of the diff axle tube into the Oil seal. There was about 1 cm gap between the end of the axle and oil seal so no damage to the oil seal.

2nd question: If you are removing the axle off the truck, then REMOVE the C-clip from the flange.

Feeler gauge gap is 0.2 mm between the C-clip and the flange according to 2001 LC. He helped me doing my CV's long a ago.
Updata: After my recent CV installation, I have 0.2 mm on driver side and 0.4 mm on passenger side
 
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well this is embarrassing, but how the hell do you get the front off the ground? When I jack from the frame nearest the tire I can barely get the tire off the ground before my floor jack tops out, then my jack stands aren't tall enough.

I ended up having to jack it up get the tire off then set the jack stand just behind the lower arm.

Where are we supposed to place stands under the front?
 
Place the jack under the lower control arm. Use 6 ton jack stands as those are tall enough. I place removed tires under the truck as well.
 
ok, got the CV out....but the damn seal is welded in there.

Can I pry this thing out? anyone got any tips?
 
Man, I can seriously not get this seal to budge. I've put vise grips on it, pried with a screw driver, tried to get a pick under the edge...nothing.

Also it looks like I bent the damn seal on the CV when I pulled it out. Does this mean I need to replace that CV now?

20200503_185420.jpg
 
The dust shield can be bend back. That's an aftermarket CV axle. DO NOT drive any shap objects between the seal and axle housing tube. That will damage the surface.

If the seal is pressed too inside, yes, it is bit tough, have you tried a long pry bar? Make sure you pry at the top of the oil seal (12 O clock) That is just in case you bruse the inner surface of the axle housing tube. A scratch at the top will not make a serious leak.

You can also try to connect few 1/2 inch extensions and pry the seal which I did to driver side seal.
 
The dust shield can be bend back. That's an aftermarket CV axle.

If the seal is pressed too inside, yes, it is bit tough, have you tried a long pry bar? Make sure you pry at the top of the oil seal (12 O clock) That is just in case you bruse the inner surface of the axle tube. A scratch at the top will not make a serious leak.

You can also try to connect few 1/2 inch extensions and pry the seal which I did to driver side seal.


I've tried everything. I'm scared I have scarred up the axle tube at this point and that thing hasn't moved. I'm going to get a seal puller tomorrow, but I'm not very optimistic. That thing is in there so tight.

What does a OEM axle look like? Also the boot on the inboard side collapsed, like it was suctioned in after I pulled it. looks really weird.

Also, I found this strange little ring behind the seal. It's like a tiny spring material but it's a complete circle. I didn't see that piece in any diagram or mentioned in previous threads. anyone know what it is?
 
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I've tried everything. I'm scared I have scarred up the axle tube at this point and that thing hasn't moved. I'm going to get a seal puller tomorrow, but I'm not very optimistic. That thing is in there so tight.

What does a OEM axle look like? Also the boot on the inboard side collapsed, like it was suctioned in after I pulled it. looks really weird.

Also, I found this strange little ring behind the seal. It's like a tiny spring material but it's a complete circle. I didn't see that piece in any diagram or mentioned in previous threads. anyone know what it is?

I am very impressed with your ambition to tackle a CV axle job as your first oil seal remove/replace job.
That spring is a part of the oil seal. The spring holds the lip of the seal tightly on the mating surface on the axle (the shinny ring on your removed axle)

New oil seal comes with the spring. Apply some grease on the spring while it is inside the oil seal before you install it to prevent any dislodge of the spring from its cavity in the oil seal (generally won't happen).

You also need to apply grease on the inner lip (which mates the CV axle) on oil seal.

see atached OEM CV axle: Note the grove on the outer surface on inner joint and the splines where the C-clip is located.

s-l1600 (1).jpg
 
I am very impressed with your ambition to tackle a CV axle job as your first oil seal remove/replace job.
That spring is a part of the oil seal. The spring holds the lip of the seal tightly on the mating surface on the axle (the shinny ring on your removed axle)

New oil seal comes with the spring. Apply some grease on the spring while it is inside the oil seal before you install it to prevent any dislodge of the spring from its cavity in the oil seal (generally won't happen).

You also need to apply grease on the inner lip (which mates the CV axle) on oil seal.

see atached OEM CV axle: Note the grove on the outer surface on inner joint and the splines where the C-clip is located.

View attachment 2294744

My seal doesn't seem to have come with that spring. So does it go around the outside of that inner lip on the seal? That would be the only way I could imagine it'd be able to secure the seal against the axle, but it doesn't seem to be strong enough to put pressure on it.

EDIT
I notice the grease in my axle bearings look pretty dirty as well. Can I clean that out with some brake cleaner and re-lube? Since I have the knuckle detached from the upper ball joint (hanging by lower) can I just rub some #1 grease in there by hand?
 
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My seal doesn't seem to have come with that spring. So does it go around the outside of that inner lip on the seal? That would be the only way I could imagine it'd be able to secure the seal against the axle, but it doesn't seem to be strong enough to put pressure on it.

EDIT
I notice the grease in my axle bearings look pretty dirty as well. Can I clean that out with some brake cleaner and re-lube? Since I have the knuckle detached from the upper ball joint (hanging by lower) can I just rub some #1 grease in there by hand?

When you say axle bearings, you're not talking about the axle tube bearings - but the wheel bearings, right?

This is what I noted in my earlier comment. If its the wheel bearings, I'd pull everything and clean it all out and replace the spindle seal too. There are a LOT of tutorials here on how to do that.

A $10 seal puller sounds like what you need for all of this. My seals have come out with some persuasion with one. You'll need to hook-and-pull (working your way in a circle around the seal). Don't just yank on one side of the seal with the puller as it will bind, but pull and then go to 60* and pull, go 60* and pull, etc. If you bite into the metal edge of a circular seal like this with a vise grips or channel locks it "expands" and bites the seal into the surface making it harder to remove.

If you've scored the axle tube a little bit, all isn't lost either. Smooth out a burr or a nick, clean it well, put the seal, and then apply a thin later of FIPG on the outside edge of the seal once its installed. It's not an OEM solution but its going to work fine.
 
well , I got it out with the seal puller you described....came right out. If autozone would have been open last night I would have went and got one. oh well, new tool i wont have to buy later.

I got her back together halfway. CV is in, I'm torquing everything back down now.

thanks for all the advice...hopefully this gets it I'm not sure if it's seated well but I did my best

15886058205571883371536788093522.jpg
 
well , I got it out with the seal puller you described....came right out. If autozone would have been open last night I would have went and got one. oh well, new tool i wont have to buy later.

I got her back together halfway. CV is in, I'm torquing everything back down now.

thanks for all the advice...hopefully this gets it I'm not sure if it's seated well but I did my best

View attachment 2295021

When you put the seal back in, did you seat it flush? When tapping these in I get them started with a 1/4 lb brass hammer just lightly tapping and working my way around the seal until it pops in. Then I set a piece of hardwood over the top of the seal and keep lightly tapping in the center of that block until the block hits. Give it a couple of good hits then with a 1lb mallet dead center in the block. If the backside of the hardwood block has a slight "O" mark/indent from the axle tube or hub then you're almost always seated dead on.

If seated too deep they may not seal well.
 
so I pulled the CV out as far as I could, put on a "c" snap ring. I can still push the cv out with it clipped and the gap looks to be about 1.5 mm to 2mm

what the hell am I doing wrong here?
 
so I pulled the CV out as far as I could, put on a "c" snap ring. I can still push the cv out with it clipped and the gap looks to be about 1.5 mm to 2mm

what the hell am I doing wrong here?

I have a hell of a time getting the axle out far enough after a front service. It always takes a puller. Do you have enough grease in there, spindle greased, etc.? Having that much play in it would definitely cause expensive problems down the road.

Besides that though, there are 6 different c-clip thicknesses. You may need a thicker clip (but none will cover a 2mm gap). Cruiser Outfitters sells a set of all the clips, and the dealer should have them as well.
 
I have a hell of a time getting the axle out far enough after a front service. It always takes a puller. Do you have enough grease in there, spindle greased, etc.? Having that much play in it would definitely cause expensive problems down the road.

Besides that though, there are 6 different c-clip thicknesses. You may need a thicker clip (but none will cover a 2mm gap). Cruiser Outfitters sells a set of all the clips, and the dealer should have them as well.
is the gap measured from the tip of the axle to the snap ring, or the flange to the snap ring?

if I let the axle settle the gap is correct between the tip of the axle and the ring. With the ring in (wheel off) the gap between the ring and flange is pretty big , and I can move the axle out by grabbing the shaft
 
is the gap measured from the tip of the axle to the snap ring, or the flange to the snap ring?

if I let the axle settle the gap is correct between the tip of the axle and the ring. With the ring in (wheel off) the gap between the ring and flange is pretty big , and I can move the axle out by grabbing the shaft

Flange to snap ring—the ring should just barely fit in there.
 
Flange to snap ring—the ring should just barely fit in there.

Damn, well I don't know what the deal is. Maybe it's because they are aftermarket CV's? I do have clunk but the teeth on the CV looked OK to me.

I've got the tire back on now. This thing whooped me I had to take a break ( I can't work in my garage and it's pretty warm outside)

I'm going to top the diff fluid up and take a drive and see how everything feels.
 
Damn, well I don't know what the deal is. Maybe it's because they are aftermarket CV's? I do have clunk but the teeth on the CV looked OK to me.

I've got the tire back on now. This thing whooped me I had to take a break ( I can't work in my garage and it's pretty warm outside)

I'm going to top the diff fluid up and take a drive and see how everything feels.

Measure the total width of the snap ring groove on the CV - there shouldn't be that much space.
 

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