Front diff bushing replacement?

[Ayune]

I took a couple of videos of my front diff bushings during D-N-R shifting to see what's up under there. Looks like my front bushing is shot and my rear is semi-ok. I got 300k miles on my '98 LC.

Front bushing:


Rear bushing:

 

[fooldall1]

Ditto here. Without reading the entire thread, is the general consensus that it's better to replace the whole front plate?

 

[2001LC]

Ditto here. Without reading the entire thread, is the general consensus that it's better to replace the whole front plate?

What are you referring to "front plate"?

 

[TXLX100]

Ditto here. Without reading the entire thread, is the general consensus that it's better to replace the whole front plate?

I don't think you'll get a consensus on that. If you read thread, it's documented how to remove/replace bushing on the vehicle, without removing front diff cover. It took me about an hour to replace it on the vehicle, with drill, small chisel, and ball joint style press.

 

[fooldall1]

I don't think you'll get a consensus on that. If you read thread, it's documented how to remove/replace bushing on the vehicle, without removing front diff cover. It took me about an hour to replace it on the vehicle, with drill, small chisel, and ball joint style press.

Did you notice the R to D clunk go away after?

 

[fooldall1]

What are you referring to "front plate"?

Sorry, the front diff cover- it's one large piece.

 

[TXLX100]

Did you notice the R to D clunk go away after?

I replaced 2 diff and driver side axle tube bushing. I would say there is still some clunk, but I think it's related to slack in the front diff, not a hard clunk. My CVs are known to be good, hub flanges look tight. I'm done messing with it, if I ever drop the diff it will be to get a locker.

 

[2001LC]

Sorry, the front diff cover- it's one large piece.

I've replaced the front bushing both with diff out of rig and in place, using air tools. I've yet to crack the case, so no.

The leading cause of D-N-R clunk is front drive shaft to hub flange play. I get the greatest benefit R&R with new OEM front drive shaft, hub flange and cone washer. The front diff bushing seem next in the benefit, then side and rear arms of front diff.

Here's a couple of videos of inspecting.

 

[fooldall1]

I've replaced the front bushing both with diff out of rig and in place, using air tools. I've yet to crack the case, so no.

The leading cause of D-N-R clunk is front drive shaft to hub flange play. I get the greatest benefit R&R with new OEM front drive shaft, hub flange and cone washer. The front diff bushing seem next in the benefit, then side and rear arms of front diff.

Here's a couple of videos of inspecting.

Try as I might, I don't have this same play in the CV Axle Flange (either side), but it could be I don't have enough torque with my arm to mimic your hand-turn test. When my wife gets home, I will have her shift and have a look under there.

Pray she doesn't run me over in the process.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Try as I might, I don't have this same play in the CV Axle Flange (either side), but it could be I don't have enough torque with my arm to mimic your hand-turn test. When my wife gets home, I will have her shift and have a look under there.

Pray she doesn't run me over in the process.

Much easier to put a cell phone under the truck and record the video while you shift between R-N-D. No chance of anyone running over anyone!

 

[Travis351]

has anyone tried a polyurethane insert/pad on this mount? I don't have access to air hammers or press.

I have a set of these coming next week. 2.25" OD x 1/2" thick 70a polyurethane pad. At least I get 8 of them to try. I'll have to mod one side for concentric cone washer. Been a few months since I looked at mine when I did the diff drop kit. I'm hoping the guts in the diff cover are still good to keep the barrel washer concentric.

Universal Body Mount Set | 9.9528

I've been clunking around for over a year with this problem and have been slowly gathering parts to rebuild the front diff with e locker, 3 new mounts and replacment CVs. None of it owes me much at 409,000. Anyway, we're nearly ready to tear into it, but realized I was missing a couple of seals and bearings for inside the diff so that the job would have to be delayed for a while longer.

I was bumming out about the scope creep of this project with a buddy of mine who builds airboats and he had some scrap polymer (~3/8 thick plastic used on airboat bottoms) lying around. It looks a little like the product posted by jsigone. Anyway, we took a hole saw to it and built a couple of pucks (one with larger hole for sleeve and one with bolt sized hole) to stuff up in there just to quiet it down a bit for a while longer. The rubber and sleeve just fell out upon removing the bolt. We just put 2 pucks on the bolt and torqued it up there in place of the rubber and I'm happy to report that I've been clunk free for nearly a month. I would venture to guess that if you are in a bind and wanted to quiet it down, you could stuff just about anything up in there to quiet it down while you gather parts and plan the job.

Starting to think that I went a little crazy on parts procurement this time...at least it's quiet for now and I know the clunk wasn't inside the diff, CV's, driveshafts or rear axle. My CVs are bound to wear out before long...

 

[Ayune]

I replaced all front diff bushings last week. I bought all OEM parts including the arms:

P/N	Toyota Description	Notes
52380-60040	SUPPORT ASSY, DIFFERENTIAL	Rear DS arm & bushing
52380-60030	SUPPORT ASSY, FRONT DIFFERENTIAL	Rear PS arm & bushing
41651-60010	CUSHION, FRONT DIFFERENTIAL MOUNT, NO.1	Front lower bushing, removed & pressed into diff cover
41653-60010	STOPPER, DIFFERENTIAL MOUNT, UPPER	Flat bushing that goes above 52380-60030
41653-60020	STOPPER, FRONT DIFFERENTIAL MOUNT, UPPER	Flat bushing that goes above 41651-60010

To remove the front bushing, begin with a small hand chisel to just get the bushing flange bent downward enough to allow a larger air chisel. Then work around and it'll drop out soon enough.

Old bushings & arms:

I used a Harbor Freight ball joint tool to install the new front bushing. TIP: The bushing WILL get misaligned when you begin pressing but you DON'T need to loosen the tool and start again - simply grab the threaded rod and yank the tool/bushing into alignment, then turn the rod until it begins to go crooked again. Then grab the threaded rod and yank it again into position. Repeat the crank-yank-crank-yank until the bushing can guide itself straight in.

Here's a fast-motion video showing the D-N-R movement of the new front bushing. No more banging into the diff cover (see post above)!

 

[NHouston]

I replaced all front diff bushings last week. I bought all OEM parts including the arms:

P/N	Toyota Description	Notes
52380-60040	SUPPORT ASSY, DIFFERENTIAL	Rear DS arm & bushing
52380-60030	SUPPORT ASSY, FRONT DIFFERENTIAL	Rear PS arm & bushing
41651-60010	CUSHION, FRONT DIFFERENTIAL MOUNT, NO.1	Front lower bushing, removed & pressed into diff cover
41653-60010	STOPPER, DIFFERENTIAL MOUNT, UPPER	Flat bushing that goes above 52380-60030
41653-60020	STOPPER, FRONT DIFFERENTIAL MOUNT, UPPER	Flat bushing that goes above 41651-60010

To remove the front bushing, begin with a small hand chisel to just get the bushing flange bent downward enough to allow a larger air chisel. Then work around and it'll drop out soon enough.
View attachment 1993552

Old bushings & arms:
View attachment 1993553

I used a Harbor Freight ball joint tool to install the new front bushing. TIP: The bushing WILL get misaligned when you begin pressing but you DON'T need to loosen the tool and start again - simply grab the threaded rod and yank the tool/bushing into alignment, then turn the rod until it begins to go crooked again. Then grab the threaded rod and yank it again into position. Repeat the crank-yank-crank-yank until the bushing can guide itself in.
View attachment 1993554

Here's a fast-motion video showing the D-N-R movement of the new front bushing. No more banging into the diff cover (see post above)!

Thanks for the step by step posted. I just bought the same OEM parts for my 99. Did this solve or soften the typical 98-99 D-N-R bump???

 

[Ayune]

Thanks for the step by step posted. I just bought the same OEM parts for my 99. Did this solve or soften the typical 98-99 D-N-R bump???

The D-N-R bump is greatly reduced after also replacing my front drive flanges. Now I just have 300k of driveshaft & diff slop.

Also note the bolts holding the arms on were wickedass tight. I highly recommend an impact wrench or looooong breaker bar.

 

[NHouston]

The D-N_R bump is greatly reduced after also replacing my front drive flanges. Now I just have 300k of driveshaft & diff slop.

Also note the bolts holding the arms on were wickedass tight. I highly recommend a impact wrench or looooong breaker bar.

Good to hear. I picked up new transmission mount, engine mounts, and new u-joints for drive shaft so far. Will be upgrading to 4:88 gears with a Harrop E-Locker as well. That should hopefully help even more. I am at 213k now.

Thinking of new axle flanges, come washers, and CV assemblies while I’m in there. I just did new bearing kit from CO.

Not sure what I could add here to minimize slight bump besides trans rebuild (not doing).

 

[Greenbean]

The leading cause of D-N-R clunk is front drive shaft to hub flange play. I get the greatest benefit R&R with new OEM front drive shaft, hub flange and cone washer. The front diff bushing seem next in the benefit, then side and rear arms of front diff.

So just:
both front axles,
two flanges,
12 new come washers,

You doing the lock washers and nuts too?

 

[Ayune]

Non-reusable parts are: Cone washers, lock washers, nuts, flange gasket, snap rings. And grease cap but seriously...

 

[Greenbean]

Well only reason I ask is I know that Toyota says a lot of parts need to be replaced, but years ago I got to put manual locking hubs on an 85 SR5 Toyota truck that I made a terrible mistake and trying to show off and I reused everything because I didn’t know any better and everything was fine.

 

[2001LC]

If doing a wheel bearing service while in there, yes. Replace oil seal, lock washer and claw washer if needed. Also replace the hub flange snap ring and set the gap, anytime removed.

 

[Greenbean]

Also replace the hub flange snap ring and set the gap, anytime removed.

I have to read up on setting the “gap”

Thanks!