Front diff bushing replacement? (1 Viewer)

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Replaced the busing last night. Took air chisel to the old metal bushing housing to get it out. I then cleaned the mount from the diff cover with wire brush and got the interior shiny again.

I pressed the new bushing in with grease and just the bolt and plate holding the bushing in. But cant seat it the last 3/16-1/4". What did you guys use to press this together? I'd prefer not to take the diff cover off to finish it...
 
Sorry to bump an old thread, but does anyone have install directions for this? I will be replacing the whole assembly not just the bushings.

Does the truck have to be sitting on its wheels or on jack stands?

Does the diff have to be supported when unbolting bushing holder and bushings?
 
Bump for help.
 
Bringing it back again.

Trying to figure out my D - R clunk I got under the truck and had my wife ( park brake on ) :confused:... shift it from drive to reverse and I can see the whole front diff and inner cv bind up or so it appears. The inner cv does not follow its normal rotation, and almost comes off axis if that makes sense. Which makes me think bushings. I also have slight rotational movement in the CV axle, I am guessing my hub flanges are worn....???


@2000UZJ . After you changed the tube support did you check again with a pry bar like in your video to see if that movement stopped? My bushing is moving exactly like yours. Im debating ordering all new bushing for mine, and calling it a day....albeit an expensive day.

I snapped a quick photo of the front cover bushing as well. Can anyone confirm if the gap closest to the frame is supposed to be that large? When shifting from D - R it will move almost all the way up and down.


Thanks everyone.
 
any update on this? i need to get this done on an lx with 220k miles and was wondering if i can buy the bushings alone.
 
The front "hockey puck" bushing I did via a jack. Untighten the bolt while the jack is supporting the front diff. Gravity did most of the work, but I let jack down a few cm to swap out the new OEM bushing. 1 banana job!

Regarding the drivers J bushing/arm, I had ACC replace mine with the OEM part. However, I'd go SuperPro poly as a replacement next time: SuperPro Bushing Kit for TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 100 Series - 1998-2007
 
My mechanic said he won't be able to take the front puck off without dropping the diff, and you know what that means $$$. Is it as simple as undoing the bolt and the diff will drop?

This is a vehicle I'm selling, so I'm not trying to dump too much money into it.
 
Old thread bump. My bushing is shot but I don't want to take the cover off/dont know if I have to drop the diff to change the darn thing. Anybody?
 
I just installed a diff drop this past weekend so its fresh in my mind. As far as I can remember, in order to get the puck out, you have to unscrew the 19mm bolt that holds the puck in place, and also the two 19mm bolts that hold the diff support arm to the axle tube ( all require 137ft lbs torque so be prepared for that). This should allow you to drop the diff enough to slide out the puck. Not sure if you'll have to loosen the rear puck mount to get more clearance- that one is a booger if you have any crust on that top nut.
 
So the thing is that the puck is attached to the diff cover... So If I destroy the bushing in the puck to get it out, I either have to put a new bushing in or the whole diff cover... And I have not been able to find just the bushing.

This is the one I'm talking about just to be clear

430295E.jpg
 
There is a bushing pressed into the mount on the diff cover (what you have circled), the "puck" sits on the topside of the bushing. The "puck" can be removed by dropping the diff down- after you remove the bolt and drop the diff/axle assembly down an inch, it slides right out.

I haven't tried this next step so I am figuring the bushing that's pressed into the diff cover will require removing the cover to replace it-I've read some folks have busted the diff cover trying to get that out while on the truck.

Question: how can you tell you puck is worn out with out first dropping the diff and sliding it out to inspect?
 
There is a bushing pressed into the mount on the diff cover (what you have circled), the "puck" sits on the topside of the bushing. The "puck" can be removed by dropping the diff down- after you remove the bolt and drop the diff/axle assembly down an inch, it slides right out.

I haven't tried this next step so I am figuring the bushing that's pressed into the diff cover will require removing the cover to replace it-I've read some folks have busted the diff cover trying to get that out while on the truck.

Question: how can you tell you puck is worn out with out first dropping the diff and sliding it out to inspect?

To answer your question, I loosened to bolt holding all of that together just far enough that I could see the bushing inside the cover is cracking. I am also having an extremely difficult time tightening the assembly back together. When I have a jack support the diff, there is still room up and down for the diff to move. I can't tighten it all the way (maybe by design?) and I'm not cross threading.
 
To answer your question, I loosened to bolt holding all of that together just far enough that I could see the bushing inside the cover is cracking. I am also having an extremely difficult time tightening the assembly back together. When I have a jack support the diff, there is still room up and down for the diff to move. I can't tighten it all the way (maybe by design?) and I'm not cross threading.
I believe the bolt threads into a captured nut so there shouldn't be any interference for it to bottom out on, but the bolt itself is shouldered so maybe you have run out of thread which sounds from your description that the rubber has worn away enough to cause that gap.
 
I believe the bolt threads into a captured nut so there shouldn't be any interference for it to bottom out on, but the bolt itself is shouldered so maybe you have run out of thread which sounds from your description that the rubber has worn away enough to cause that gap.
That's what I'm thinking. So I think I have to replace the cover and the puck below and on top.
 
That's what I'm thinking. So I think I have to replace the cover and the puck below and on top.
According to earlier posts in this thread- the diff cover bushing itself can be ordered separate of the diff cover: 41651-60010 (CUSHION, FRONT DIFFERENTIAL MOUNT). The puck (STOPPER, DIFFERENTIAL MOUNT, UPPER) is 41653-60010. Better check the rear cushions as well while you're at it.

I think its recommended that you still have to remove the cover to press out and in the 41651-60010"CUSHION, FRONT DIFFERENTIAL MOUNT"

Good luck and post up how it went.
 
I have some vibration and wub-wub-wub from 1200-1600RPM, and a clunk from Park to Drive. Drive shafts and CVs are actually in really good shape. I think this (and maybe other) bushings may be the culprit. I'll inspect later this week.

Well, if I have to replace this bushing...I was trying to think of a simpler way that wouldn't involve removing the front cover. I believe removing the cover also necessitates cleaning and re-applying FIPG? Then re-filling the diff? Maybe not difficult work, but definitely added effort.

What do we all think about using temperature to our advantage? As in, would it be safe to heat the circular mount? I feel like in this case the old bushing could much more easily be pried out.

To get the new one in, how about heating the circular mount and freezing the new bushing overnight? In this case, the new bushing might slip right into the mount.

A similar technique has been used on these forums for getting the outer bearing races installed into the hub during wheel bearing replacement.
 
I have some vibration and wub-wub-wub from 1200-1600RPM, and a clunk from Park to Drive. Drive shafts and CVs are actually in really good shape. I think this (and maybe other) bushings may be the culprit. I'll inspect later this week.

Well, if I have to replace this bushing...I was trying to think of a simpler way that wouldn't involve removing the front cover. I believe removing the cover also necessitates cleaning and re-applying FIPG? Then re-filling the diff? Maybe not difficult work, but definitely added effort.

What do we all think about using temperature to our advantage? As in, would it be safe to heat the circular mount? I feel like in this case the old bushing could much more easily be pried out.

To get the new one in, how about heating the circular mount and freezing the new bushing overnight? In this case, the new bushing might slip right into the mount.

A similar technique has been used on these forums for getting the outer bearing races installed into the hub during wheel bearing replacement.
I'm basically trying that right now. I'm not sure what tool or saw I should use to cut the rest of it out? Heat? No clue

IMG_3990.JPG
 
On my Tundra steering rack I just used a torch and melted/burned that old bushing and easily scraped it out. It's like making s'mores. Keep an extinguisher handy just in case.
 

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