Front CV Axle not Sliding into hub- SOLVED (1 Viewer)

[vanosmaster]

Hi all,
I am in a bit of a predicament, I planned on rebooting my passenger side CV axle and found out that someone installed a non-OEM axle before me. Ok no biggie I ordered a new CV shaft from Toyota and now I have a much bigger issue. The splines going into the hub seem to not be going in fully, as seen in the pictures below.

I compared the non-oem axle and new oem axle and it seems that there is a diameter difference of 0.5mm between the axles (OEM measured at 33.29mm and non-OEM at 32.80mm). I took the axle flange off and it glides on the old axle like butter, however when putting it on the new axle I am really struggling to get it past the 50% point of the splines.

Does anyone have any advice on what I should do to get the new axle fully seated on this flange? Is it possible I need a new flange? Or is there something Im missing altogether

Thanks in advance I really appreciate it

 

[MongooseGA]

Lift the knuckle up with a floor jack.

You can also put a bolt in the end of the axle and use a pair of pliers to help pull it out to put your snap ring in.

 

[FxFormat]

Is the hub flange oem as well? Anyways once you manage to get it through, the clunk will be gone.

 

[badlander]

So, without the flange installed the axle seats fully into the back of the hub, correct?
If so, you have interference in the splines. Inspect the clean and inspect the flange splines and look for damage. You may be able to repair with a file but a new flange isn't really that expensive if needed.
Also, but doubtful, the splines on the new axle may have been damaged in shipping. Inspect those as well.
In addition, you should have the flange removed when installing the axle. Don't try to jam the axle through a mounted flange. The flange should go on last, after axle installation.

 

[AARONTLC]

Is there a machining “booger” on the new drive shaft? After verifying that the new axel is good I would just invest 60.00 in a new OEM flange. Good luck!

 

[2001LC]

New OEM FDS (AKA CV) outer axle splines, match perfectly to OEM hub flange splines. If used hub flange, the splines are likely worn down. They then slide on even easier and may have some play. Personally, I always pair new OEM FDS with new OEM hub flange and generally all new cone washers.

I would inspect the splines of both the new FDS outer axle and hub flange. If no damage, the hub flange will slide on easily.

excessive wear, which I'd not reuse on a new FDS (AKA CV) axle.

New

I also make sure the axle bearing and bushing, are in good condition. I'd lube before installing outer axle of FDS.

I then pull the axle out the front, so sticking out hub flange. Pull hard to settling grease between FDS & brass bushing, so I don't get a false snap ring gap.

I would use a new snap ring of proper thickness to get a less than 0.20mm gap. Then a new grease cap, to seal out water.

See more on FDS and wheel hubs/bearings in my master link below.

 

[2001LC]

BTW: If reusing hub flange nuts. Make sure to use a little medium threads sealer. Then torque nuts to 24ft-lbf.

 

[2001LC]

I just notice you removed the TRE arm, from knuckle. Those two bolts that secured the TRE arm to knuckle, need a high strength (red) thread sealer.
I also notice. Your Hub flange nuts, are not on evenly. Which I assume you've just not yet, snug or torqued them down. But just make sure the hub flange mats perfectly to wheel hub.

All to often I find someone has beaten on hub flange and wheel hub, to release cone washers. This wraps the mating surfaces and result in issues. i..e hub flange will not mat/seal to wheel hub and or cone washer can no longer center in hub flange.
This may result in hub flange not being at a perfect right angle to wheel hub/axle. Thus as axle slide in hub flange, angle of hun flange being off, result in jambing.

If any hits on wheel hub, it damages mat surface. Not only will seal be compromised. But hub flange won't lay flat.

Wheel hubs I restore mating surface

Additionally wheel bearing and hub, must be assemble correctly. If somehow, wheel hub not seated on spindle, squarely. Axle again, could bind in hub flange, as angle not a perfectly square.

One issue is seal in back of wheel hub inserted backswords.

Wrong

Correct seal placement, where it is flat/level with tone ring.

 

[vanosmaster]

New OEM FDS (AKA CV) outer axle splines, match perfectly to OEM hub flange splines. If used hub flange, the splines are likely worn down. They then slide on even easier and may have some play. Personally, I always pair new OEM FDS with new OEM hub flange and generally all new cone washers.

I would inspect the splines of both the new FDS outer axle and hub flange. If no damage, the hub flange will slide on easily.
View attachment 3814690
excessive wear, which I'd not reuse on a new FDS (AKA CV) axle.
View attachment 3814691
New
View attachment 3814692

I also make sure the axle bearing and bushing, are in good condition. I'd lube before installing outer axle of FDS.
View attachment 3814689
I then pull the axle out the front, so sticking out hub flange. Pull hard to settling grease between FDS & brass bushing, so I don't get a false snap ring gap.
View attachment 3814698View attachment 3814699
I would use a new snap ring of proper thickness to get a less than 0.20mm gap. Then a new grease cap, to seal out water.

See more on FDS and wheel hubs/bearings in my master link below.

Thank you so much!! I picked up a new flange today and it slid right on the axle like butter. Upon removing my old one i saw similar wear marks to yours indicating a worn flange that would not let axle the fully seat.

 

[vanosmaster]

I want to thank you all for the help. Upon removing my old flange I saw some wear from the non-OEM cv axle as seen below:

Seeing this wear alone might be hard to see however comparing this to the new Axle Flange its easy to see thats its pretty worn out.

If you are having significant issues getting your new CV axle into the axle flange consider replacing it as its worn out