Front crank seal oil leak questions (1 Viewer)

[Streetiz81]

Looking for some guidance on a front crank area leak. I have the crank seal, front cover gasket and intermediate plate gasket. I’ve already done a fair amount of reading on it but the one thing I wasn’t sure about was how far to install the “oil squirter”. Also read that obtaining a service manual would do me some good (obviously) but I just found a 2F service manual and skimmed through the whole thing and didn’t feel like I found everything I wanted to find. Does a Haynes manual perhaps have more detail from a procedural standpoint on doing the job I’m going to do. Read that the side cover, fuel pump, distributor, valve cover, rockers, pushrods and cam all have to come out in order to do the “intermediate plate” gasket. Engine code 2F017611.

 

[fjc-man]

If the oil nozzle isn’t screwed in deeper ( protruding ) than the back surface, is staked ( so it won’t move ) and pointed correctly I’d leave it alone. If you already removed it, those are the things you need to do when you install it.

 

[Streetiz81]

If the oil nozzle isn’t screwed in deeper ( protruding ) than the back surface, is staked ( so it won’t move ) and pointed correctly I’d leave it alone. If you already removed it, those are the things you need to do when you install it.View attachment 3086271

Understood. No haven’t started yet. Starting this job today. The pictures above…were they direct from a 2F manual? Like I stated above I skimmed over one (2F manual) last night, but it was like 11:00PM or so when I did so I could’ve missed something.

 

[fjc-man]

Yes, that’s out of a 2F service manual.

 

[Silver City Cruiser]

If you follow the fsm to the letter it wont leak. Use care and keep track of the bolts in order on the cover they are different lengths and it WILL leak if you dont put them back in the right spot. Also did you make sure it IS the inner plate gasket leaking. Sure would be easier if it was just the oil pan saddle area or the cover gasket ( both cork) clean with brake cleaner and make sure it is leaking there.
Do not use any sealer on the cover. Just install the gasket dry and put the screws in 1 turn. Then put the pulley on fully and tighten the cover screws gently( just like the manual says) it's not a precision aligned cover. The pulley centers it. Snug the screws down with a 10mm & 14mm wrench and let it sit two hours, then come back and snug them up again. Remove the 14mm headed bolts and apply sealant to the threads and tighten up snug. You can get them out and in with the pulley on. I dont use sealant on the side cover either if you have to go that route. Good luck. Follow the fsm..Takumi Bill

 

[brian]

annville?

 

[73FJ40]

Make sure you know how the front harmonic balancer seal is located.

A number of mudders have found out the hard way there is a labyrinth behind the seal which is soldered in. Also, don't powder coat it! The heat will melt the solder.

 

[Streetiz81]

Make sure you know how the front harmonic balancer seal is located.

View attachment 3087168


A number of mudders have found out the hard way there is a labyrinth behind the seal which is soldered in. Also, don't powder coat it! The heat will melt the solder.

This is the first I had heard of this (seal orientation and solder). I will pay close attention to the seal. Wasn’t going to powder coat it. Appreciate the heads up.

 

[Streetiz81]

annville?

Yep I do live in Annville!

 

[Streetiz81]

If you follow the fsm to the letter it wont leak. Use care and keep track of the bolts in order on the cover they are different lengths and it WILL leak if you dont put them back in the right spot. Also did you make sure it IS the inner plate gasket leaking. Sure would be easier if it was just the oil pan saddle area or the cover gasket ( both cork) clean with brake cleaner and make sure it is leaking there.
Do not use any sealer on the cover. Just install the gasket dry and put the screws in 1 turn. Then put the pulley on fully and tighten the cover screws gently( just like the manual says) it's not a precision aligned cover. The pulley centers it. Snug the screws down with a 10mm & 14mm wrench and let it sit two hours, then come back and snug them up again. Remove the 14mm headed bolts and apply sealant to the threads and tighten up snug. You can get them out and in with the pulley on. I dont use sealant on the side cover either if you have to go that route. Good luck. Follow the fsm..Takumi Bill

Thanks Silver City. I’ve been a mechanic for 15 years so I’ve learned a lot of these lessons the hard way lol. But my bolts would be hard to confuse. Unfortunately I have the Phillips head screws (got them all out) and then my bottom 2 are maybe M10’s x 30-50 or something like that with a 14mm hex head. I appreciate your help very much. And also know not to put sealant with paper gaskets. But I appreciate everything you’ve brought up. This is a fantastic forum.

 

[Streetiz81]

If you follow the fsm to the letter it wont leak. Use care and keep track of the bolts in order on the cover they are different lengths and it WILL leak if you dont put them back in the right spot. Also did you make sure it IS the inner plate gasket leaking. Sure would be easier if it was just the oil pan saddle area or the cover gasket ( both cork) clean with brake cleaner and make sure it is leaking there.
Do not use any sealer on the cover. Just install the gasket dry and put the screws in 1 turn. Then put the pulley on fully and tighten the cover screws gently( just like the manual says) it's not a precision aligned cover. The pulley centers it. Snug the screws down with a 10mm & 14mm wrench and let it sit two hours, then come back and snug them up again. Remove the 14mm headed bolts and apply sealant to the threads and tighten up snug. You can get them out and in with the pulley on. I dont use sealant on the side cover either if you have to go that route. Good luck. Follow the fsm..Takumi Bill

And no I’m not sure. All the bolts are out of front cover but I’m pretty sure someone Permatexed It on there. So I’ll post a pic this evening after work and see what you think once I get it off.

 

[brian]

Yep I do live in Annville!

Cool.
Im in lebanon haven't seen you/it around.

 

[Streetiz81]

If you follow the fsm to the letter it wont leak. Use care and keep track of the bolts in order on the cover they are different lengths and it WILL leak if you dont put them back in the right spot. Also did you make sure it IS the inner plate gasket leaking. Sure would be easier if it was just the oil pan saddle area or the cover gasket ( both cork) clean with brake cleaner and make sure it is leaking there.
Do not use any sealer on the cover. Just install the gasket dry and put the screws in 1 turn. Then put the pulley on fully and tighten the cover screws gently( just like the manual says) it's not a precision aligned cover. The pulley centers it. Snug the screws down with a 10mm & 14mm wrench and let it sit two hours, then come back and snug them up again. Remove the 14mm headed bolts and apply sealant to the threads and tighten up snug. You can get them out and in with the pulley on. I dont use sealant on the side cover either if you have to go that route. Good luck. Follow the fsm..Takumi Bill

So I got the cover off, cleaned the plate and oil pan saddle area thoroughly with brake clean. I then waited about 20 minutes to see if I saw any seepage. I did not. It looks like there is a new oil pan on it and the Permatex saddle seal job they did is…..less than impressive to me. But it doesn’t appear to be leaking. Nothing is seeping from behind the plate either. Maybe I’m just willing this to be, but I think I'm good. I took some pictures (not the best). I’ll upload them.

 

[Silver City Cruiser]

Well I was hoping that you had not taken it apart before you cleaned it. It wont leak with the engine turned off...It has been apart before as the three screws were staked in a different position on the timing plate.
It looks like the crank seal was leaking. The oil pan reseal job looks typical and sealant (preferably Toyota FIPG ) was used. Snug the oil pan bolts down with a small ratchet and extension. Not to tight. You may just want to reseal the cover and install a new crank seal. Then retest for leaks. Pulling the plate is a huge job especially if your not really sure it was leaking. Did you get factory parts for your repair and do you know all of what you need for the plate job if you do it? Bill

 

[Streetiz81]

Cool.
Im in lebanon haven't seen you/it around.

Well I was hoping that you had not taken it apart before you cleaned it. It wont leak with the engine turned off...It has been apart before as the three screws were staked in a different position on the timing plate.
It looks like the crank seal was leaking. The oil pan reseal job looks typical and sealant (preferably Toyota FIPG ) was used. Snug the oil pan bolts down with a small ratchet and extension. Not to tight. You may just want to reseal the cover and install a new crank seal. Then retest for leaks. Pulling the plate is a huge job especially if your not really sure it was leaking. Did you get factory parts for your repair and do you know all of what you need for the plate job if you do it? Bill

I think I am just going to do as you said for now. Replace the front cover and seal. I did however clean it thoroughly before while it was together. Then ran it. And saw the oil coming from the front cover/seal area. So
I just made the assumption it was one/both of them. It was only when I ordered them and got a 3rd item (intermediate plate gasket) that I was like what’s this?? Lol. And it was already apart by then. If I put it together and it leaks again after replacing these two items I won’t be too angry. Not hard to get to that point again. Here is what I have parts-wise (see picture). The reason I posted pictures of the area in question this evening was because I thought that maybe I would get a small amount of seepage or something if there was a compromised area. I guess we’ll just have to see over time.

 

[Silver City Cruiser]

Those should be ok...use OE parts if you can. They still are available. The only time I go aftermarket is when OE is discontinued. Make sure you put some grease on the back side of the seal as well as the contact area. The seal is a tight fit and the grease will help hold the coil spring in place as you drive it down. Clean up the crank pulley with some scotch brite.
Good luck and I hope it holds. Bill

 

[Silver City Cruiser]

Dont use a aftermarket intermediate plate gasket if it does still leak. The Factory one is pre-coated and is superior to the aftermarket. Bill

 

[Streetiz81]

Cool.
Im in lebanon haven't seen you/it around.

Well this is actually a friend of mine’s father’s vehicle. But I love this thing.

 

[Streetiz81]

Make sure you know how the front harmonic balancer seal is located.

View attachment 3087168


A number of mudders have found out the hard way there is a labyrinth behind the seal which is soldered in. Also, don't powder coat it! The heat will melt the solder.

Can you elaborate on this. Like the orientation of the seal. Is that front to back (like make sure I don’t put it in backwards)? Or is that orientation as far as a particular place on the seal being oriented at a particular position clock-wise?

 

[Streetiz81]

Well I was hoping that you had not taken it apart before you cleaned it. It wont leak with the engine turned off...It has been apart before as the three screws were staked in a different position on the timing plate.
It looks like the crank seal was leaking. The oil pan reseal job looks typical and sealant (preferably Toyota FIPG ) was used. Snug the oil pan bolts down with a small ratchet and extension. Not to tight. You may just want to reseal the cover and install a new crank seal. Then retest for leaks. Pulling the plate is a huge job especially if your not really sure it was leaking. Did you get factory parts for your repair and do you know all of what you need for the plate job if you do it? Bill

Can you explain this “staked” thing everyone mentioned? I see by the screws what looks to be an intentional blemish on the plate that perhaps causes that screw to not move? Is that what everyone is talking about? Sort of like how One would steak and axle nut or rear diff pinion nut.