I compiled all the torque specs and fluid capacities involved in doing the front axle service onto a quick reference sheet for when I did my front axle. Pretty helpful not to have to search for torque specs while you're all greasy. Figured I'd share it. I did one for the rear too, though that one's way less complicated.
Here is the other method, no fish scale needed. Add that to you pic and it will be complete.
"Torque the inner nut to 10 ftlbs, spin the wheel a few turns in both directions and then re torque the nut again to 10 ftlbs. I repeat this until after the spinning the nut stays at 10 ftlbs. Then I install the tabbed washer, make sure it is as flat as possible if not using a new one, and outer nut. Torque the outer nut to 47 ftlbs and bend over the tabs to lock each nut in place. If you have replaced a bearing make sure the race is fully seated. If it isn't then everything will loosen over time."
or
"Tighten the inner nut to 10 ft lbs, rotate the hub several times back and forth.
Re torque to 10 ft lbs, rotate the hub several times back and forth
repeat above two steps until there is no need to re torque.
I put the FSM preload procedure on it. I figure if someone wants to do their own variations, they can. Don't want to add too much to the sheet or it will become unwieldy. Thanks.
Thought about it. A list on the side would be doable. Part numbers all over the place would be too cluttered. The point was mainly for torque specs so that I could put everything together without going to my FSM and searching every few minutes.
The torque setting is a good idea but if you are like me (and need to follow directions line by line or I will forget something ) you will still need to have the FSM handy.
I need an app for my Macbook that will page up or down by voice command so I dont get the keys greasy or an automatic page turner for my FSM. Better yet, have a text reader that will read the FSM as I do what it says to do with a sexy voice.
43422-60040 x2
90311-62002 x2
90310-35001 x2
42419-60011 x4 (set screws--I recommend replacing and keeping old ones as trail spares)
Bearings are the same as the front ones. The rears very rarely need replacing.