Nice. Looking forward to what you do with the rear bumper. I like your progress on the drawers also.
frogers Build - 2006 LX470 (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter frogers935
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #142
Snorkel Install
This was low on my list of things to do but there was a deal on the Ebay snorkels I could not pass up. Install was straight forward thanks to other MUD members builds.
Tools used:
Truck up, tire removed, and splash guard out. As noted in others threads its a good idea to get some additional plastic inserts - I only managed to break one.
Area taped and template fitted.
This was low on my list of things to do but there was a deal on the Ebay snorkels I could not pass up. Install was straight forward thanks to other MUD members builds.
Tools used:
- Drill with 4.5" hole saw & step drill bit 1/2"
- Painters tape
- POR15 (Would have prefered touch up paint but had this on hand)
- Spring loaded center punch
- Rivet nut tool with 10-24 rivet nuts and associated SS bolts (not in kit)
- Deburring tool
- RTV
- Liquid courage
Truck up, tire removed, and splash guard out. As noted in others threads its a good idea to get some additional plastic inserts - I only managed to break one.
Area taped and template fitted.
- Thread starter
- #143
I used the center punch to mark all the holes and drilled pilot holes. Double checked alignment and took a deep breath.
New hole saw went through easily
For the bolt holes I started small but realized I did not have enough movement to get everything lined up. Ended going with full 1/2" holes with the step bit.
If you have not used a deburring tool before I highly suggest it, made short work of cleaning up the holes. FYI I used this Deburring Tool. I used some POR15 I had I did wipe down the excess just didn't get a picture all cleaned up.
New hole saw went through easily
For the bolt holes I started small but realized I did not have enough movement to get everything lined up. Ended going with full 1/2" holes with the step bit.
If you have not used a deburring tool before I highly suggest it, made short work of cleaning up the holes. FYI I used this Deburring Tool. I used some POR15 I had I did wipe down the excess just didn't get a picture all cleaned up.
- Thread starter
- #144
For the pillar support install I used rivet nuts as opposed to rivets, I took the idea from @REZARF. I bought a cheap HF rivet tool but good rivet nuts from Mcmaster. I found some flange sealing rivet nuts so I did not use RTV on the nut - rivet nut. I didn't get any pictures but I fitted the snorkel with the bracket and marked the tape I had put on pillar. Removed the bracket from snorkel and held it to the pillar and center punched. Rivet nuts were 10-24 for material thickness "0.020" to 0.100"
Tool with nut ready for install
Rivet nuts installed
Test fit with SS button head bolts
Tool with nut ready for install
Rivet nuts installed
Test fit with SS button head bolts
- Thread starter
- #145
Finishing up. It was cold so I didn't get to many fitment pictures or pictures of attachment to air box. One thing I did do was install some teflon washers on were the snorkel bolts to body - probably not needed but I had hem. I also put some RTV around the 2 tube connections (snorkel to rubber piece and rubber piece to airbox), probably not needed since the hose clamps give a tight fit.
Nylon washer
Final bolt in
Nylon washer
Final bolt in
Looks nice, clean install
Was this the <$100 Chinese model?
Was this the <$100 Chinese model?
- Thread starter
- #147
Thanks @LandCruiserPhil . Yes it was the cheap chinese one, ~$65 from this seller. Quality seems ok, plastic is thick a bit of uneven color on the snorkel itself but not too bad.
Can you give a review on your cooper tires now that you have had them for a bit?
Installed my Slee front bumper and painting my rims currently, snorkel install like @frogers935, thanks for the install walkthrough, i was looking that up after i posted on here, got the same exact one like 50% off can't beat it. Picture wont't upload will get a phone pic and upload after everything gets done this weekend
- Thread starter
- #150
@DJCloz
STT Pros Review
Overall I am very happy with the STT pros. They have performed well in all conditions. I just had them out on the trail in a mix of rain/sleet/snow no problems at all over rocks and through the mud. They did a good job in the snow a year ago. They have gotten a bit louder as they have worn but they are on now on the same level as the Nitto MT I had on my 4runner.
TreadWear: Even wear no chunking. I need to get a depth measurement but they are a softer tire and are wearing accordingly i.e. faster than an AT.
Dry Traction: As advertised. Not as comfortable/stable as an AT but not as bad as a MT
Wet Traction: Much better compared to my previous MT's, I feel much more comfortable driving in the rain. Again not the same as an AT (I ran BFG and Nittos before and they were better as expected)
Off Road: Excellent.
MPG: I am averaging right around 12.8 mpg combined. How much of that is a result of tires is unknown as I did bumper/skids/rack around the same time.
My only regret on these is not buying 5 of them, I didn't think I could fit a spare underneath. I ended up buying a extremely used Nitto MT (Same size) which barely fits underneath. I am moving to a swing-out spare so I am on the lookout for a used STT. If I can't find one by my summer trip I may just buy a new set of 5 and sell these 4.
I will update with depth and actual mileage.
STT Pros Review
Overall I am very happy with the STT pros. They have performed well in all conditions. I just had them out on the trail in a mix of rain/sleet/snow no problems at all over rocks and through the mud. They did a good job in the snow a year ago. They have gotten a bit louder as they have worn but they are on now on the same level as the Nitto MT I had on my 4runner.
TreadWear: Even wear no chunking. I need to get a depth measurement but they are a softer tire and are wearing accordingly i.e. faster than an AT.
Dry Traction: As advertised. Not as comfortable/stable as an AT but not as bad as a MT
Wet Traction: Much better compared to my previous MT's, I feel much more comfortable driving in the rain. Again not the same as an AT (I ran BFG and Nittos before and they were better as expected)
Off Road: Excellent.
MPG: I am averaging right around 12.8 mpg combined. How much of that is a result of tires is unknown as I did bumper/skids/rack around the same time.
My only regret on these is not buying 5 of them, I didn't think I could fit a spare underneath. I ended up buying a extremely used Nitto MT (Same size) which barely fits underneath. I am moving to a swing-out spare so I am on the lookout for a used STT. If I can't find one by my summer trip I may just buy a new set of 5 and sell these 4.
I will update with depth and actual mileage.
- Thread starter
- #151
BIOR (Bump it offroad) Rear Bumper Install:
Received and installed my BIOR rear bumper this week. I had asked Mike at BIOR to make me a custom 2nd swing arm to hold an Alu-Box. I had the box sent to him and he went to work. The end result is awesome, exactly what I wanted. Mike is a great guy to work with and I highly recommend him to anyone. He answered all my questions in a timely manner, kept me updated on progress, delivered on time, did custom work at a reasonable price and gave me an excellent product.
I will start with the finished product and follow up with the install:
Received and installed my BIOR rear bumper this week. I had asked Mike at BIOR to make me a custom 2nd swing arm to hold an Alu-Box. I had the box sent to him and he went to work. The end result is awesome, exactly what I wanted. Mike is a great guy to work with and I highly recommend him to anyone. He answered all my questions in a timely manner, kept me updated on progress, delivered on time, did custom work at a reasonable price and gave me an excellent product.
I will start with the finished product and follow up with the install:
- Thread starter
- #152
I had the bumper shipped to the local Fastenal dealer. It came on a pallet, I was able to take all the pieces off and fit them in the back on the LX. 2 people required.
Naked rear end. I have been driving around for a week like this. Notice the dent on the right side. Someone hit my parked truck exactly 1 day after I ordered the BIOR bumper. Didn't realize how hard until I took the old bumper off.
Area marked off for cutting. I hit the rust area with POR15.
So this ended up taking awhile. The metal is thick and using the air cut off tool, while precise, takes time. Didn't help that my big compressor died midway through. I ended up using a combination of cut off tool, drilling holes, & sawzall.
Naked rear end. I have been driving around for a week like this. Notice the dent on the right side. Someone hit my parked truck exactly 1 day after I ordered the BIOR bumper. Didn't realize how hard until I took the old bumper off.
Area marked off for cutting. I hit the rust area with POR15.
So this ended up taking awhile. The metal is thick and using the air cut off tool, while precise, takes time. Didn't help that my big compressor died midway through. I ended up using a combination of cut off tool, drilling holes, & sawzall.
- Thread starter
- #153
Mounting the bumper is straight forward. 2 people help to lift it up - it is supported by the rear cross member - bolt it in.
- Thread starter
- #154
Swing Arms Install:
Bearing grease in the arms and bearings
Used a piece of wood to tap in the bottom dust cap
Putting on the top dust cap was the only PIA of the install. I really screwed up the first one by forcing it in - dented the hell out of it. The 2nd one I used some pliers to bend in the ends and that worked. I finished it off by using the below socket to tap it in.
Bearing grease in the arms and bearings
Used a piece of wood to tap in the bottom dust cap
Putting on the top dust cap was the only PIA of the install. I really screwed up the first one by forcing it in - dented the hell out of it. The 2nd one I used some pliers to bend in the ends and that worked. I finished it off by using the below socket to tap it in.
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- Thread starter
- #155
Swing out on with no Alu-box. I will run this way most of the time. The Alu-box will be bolted to the platform for camping trips. I want to get a real spare tire (the used POS was because I couldn't fit a full size underneath) before I drill the holes in the alu-box.
I thought the BIO in the arms were a nice touch. Note the beat to s*!t dust cap.
I thought the BIO in the arms were a nice touch. Note the beat to s*!t dust cap.
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- Thread starter
- #156
Such nice lines on the bumper but that big ole resonator just messes it up.
Nothing a sawzall can't fix
Much better. I had actually planned on removing the resonator just not right now but I had a reason behind it - see next post.
Forgot to get pictures of the swing arms open form the rear but got this one from the side. The platform without the box is already coming in handy.
Nothing a sawzall can't fix
Much better. I had actually planned on removing the resonator just not right now but I had a reason behind it - see next post.
Forgot to get pictures of the swing arms open form the rear but got this one from the side. The platform without the box is already coming in handy.
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- Thread starter
- #157
A common problem from what I have read but the rear bolts holes are misaligned.
I tried to pry them before I put the bumper on but there must be some rust between the tab and the frame.
I tried opening the holes by grinding them with the dremel but had no luck they where too far off. I also drilled some pilot holes on the inside of the frame and tried to push the nuts into place - they didn't move.
So I don't have the extra wing supports on now. Looking at options. I will either cut a hole in the frame to fit a real nut & tool in OR put in a rivet nut.
Still need to wire the license plate light, relocate the backup cam, & figure out some additional back up lighting. Also may add some more turn signals for when I have the Alu-box installed.
I tried to pry them before I put the bumper on but there must be some rust between the tab and the frame.
I tried opening the holes by grinding them with the dremel but had no luck they where too far off. I also drilled some pilot holes on the inside of the frame and tried to push the nuts into place - they didn't move.
So I don't have the extra wing supports on now. Looking at options. I will either cut a hole in the frame to fit a real nut & tool in OR put in a rivet nut.
Still need to wire the license plate light, relocate the backup cam, & figure out some additional back up lighting. Also may add some more turn signals for when I have the Alu-box installed.
I got it done with an 1/4" air die grinder and a course cone tool. I think the dremel was just not enough HP. I was able too grind the frame without getting into the nut threads.
- Thread starter
- #159
@cmck thanks for the suggestion. I picked up some of the cones and tried it today was able to get the nut hole opened up but I must have screwed up the threads in my other attempts.
I ending up taping it for a bigger SAE bolt using my pilot holes to move the nut over some, it kinda works but I wasn't too happy with it and I couldn't get the 2nd nut to move at all and grinding did not work (the nut is actually at an angle - the bracket must be bent). So I ended up drilling into the side and using that nut. Still need to work on the other side.
Final Result will have to do for now
I ending up taping it for a bigger SAE bolt using my pilot holes to move the nut over some, it kinda works but I wasn't too happy with it and I couldn't get the 2nd nut to move at all and grinding did not work (the nut is actually at an angle - the bracket must be bent). So I ended up drilling into the side and using that nut. Still need to work on the other side.
Final Result will have to do for now
