what a beast this will be! keep up the work man
Frankie - '87 FJ-60 Refurbishment Plus a Few Mods
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- #142
I finally got some spare time and have put finishing Frankie on my priority list. The OEM radiator sprung a leak making it undrivable. I figured if I'm digging in deep enough to change that I might as well fix the rest. The frame, which should have been the first piece I started with, is the next to last part of this puzzle.
Before getting dirty from working underneath I pulled part of the interior to access the body bolts and gear shifter. I didn't have to pull the tunnel or the transfer stick.
Then came the radiator and bumpers.
The rear cross member will have to be replaced.
Before getting dirty from working underneath I pulled part of the interior to access the body bolts and gear shifter. I didn't have to pull the tunnel or the transfer stick.
Then came the radiator and bumpers.
The rear cross member will have to be replaced.
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- Thread starter
- #143
After removing the radiator I unbolted the AC compressor, slid it forwards, and tied it to the fender. This allowed enough slack in the AC high pressure lines to slide the evaporator beyond the valence and rotate it down and out of the way. I'm hoping the AC will hold its charge despite the twisting and disturbance.
I think it's easiest to pull the engine with the gear train attached if your crane can handle the weight.
I left all the accessories and smog components on the engine. They'll be easier to pull while on a stand. Plus, the focus of the day was getting to the frame.
I think it's easiest to pull the engine with the gear train attached if your crane can handle the weight.
I left all the accessories and smog components on the engine. They'll be easier to pull while on a stand. Plus, the focus of the day was getting to the frame.
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- Thread starter
- #144
I haven't decided how much work to do on the 2F while it's out. It leaks pretty badly from both mains, the valve and side covers, and probably the pan too. I bought new seals, gaskets, and hoses; planning to fix the leaks, overhaul the carb, tune it up, and replace all the hoses.
Plus I've got a new clutch, pilot and throw out bearings, new H55, and a spit case overhaul kit from Marlin.
The compression is good on all 6, it runs happily, doesn't smoke, and was getting 15 mph on the highway with 31's. The flip side is that it has 200,000 miles on it (driven by someone else with unknown maintenance habits). And it's already out.
Any advice about doing an overhaul now?
Plus I've got a new clutch, pilot and throw out bearings, new H55, and a spit case overhaul kit from Marlin.
The compression is good on all 6, it runs happily, doesn't smoke, and was getting 15 mph on the highway with 31's. The flip side is that it has 200,000 miles on it (driven by someone else with unknown maintenance habits). And it's already out.
Any advice about doing an overhaul now?
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All I can say is that I'm jealous you have the time to do all this work. My frame and body is marginal at best. Your truck is amazing! Keep at it. You're doing an awesome job.
If compression is good, I say leave it alone. Just fix leaks and clean it up. But it certainly, while out, would be much much easier to put new bearings and rings in, a "farmer rebuild" as it's called. Many have done that gotten lots of good miles out from it.
I started to do that with mine, but ended up with a full 40-over rebuild 'cuz of scored cylinder wall from broken rings on the POs rebuild.
Very nice build, btw.
I started to do that with mine, but ended up with a full 40-over rebuild 'cuz of scored cylinder wall from broken rings on the POs rebuild.
Very nice build, btw.
- Thread starter
- #147
Thanks, Mongoose and Spike. It's been a long, tedious road.
I'll probably wait to do major work on the engine. It doesn't particularly need it and I may be doing a diesel swap on one of my 62's. That would leave me with a take out 3FE and an ideal situation to build a 2FE for Frankie. In the mean time, I like how Frankie is nearly all stock and my mods are removable.
We used something of a 'shade tree' technique to lift the body off the frame; three jacks in a tripod, one in the rear and two at the firewall. It worked but had a few sketchy moments.
The homemade plywood horses have one corner rounded to use as a cam and rotate from a low stance to a high one. This worked the first time a couple of years ago but there were only two of us this time and I wasn't willing to risk something going wrong after investing so much work into the truck.
I'll probably wait to do major work on the engine. It doesn't particularly need it and I may be doing a diesel swap on one of my 62's. That would leave me with a take out 3FE and an ideal situation to build a 2FE for Frankie. In the mean time, I like how Frankie is nearly all stock and my mods are removable.
We used something of a 'shade tree' technique to lift the body off the frame; three jacks in a tripod, one in the rear and two at the firewall. It worked but had a few sketchy moments.
The homemade plywood horses have one corner rounded to use as a cam and rotate from a low stance to a high one. This worked the first time a couple of years ago but there were only two of us this time and I wasn't willing to risk something going wrong after investing so much work into the truck.
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- Thread starter
- #148
Typical to our Land Cruisers, the front half of the frame was in pretty good shape but the back half was showing rust at the rear cross member and at the C-Channel inserts just aft of the axle arches.
Removing axles and all the fuel and brake lines was very easy without the body. It was a treat to have clear access to bolts without dirt and drips falling in my face. With the frame loaded on a trailer the remnants look like an archeology find.
The frame is out to be sand blasted, pickled, galvanized, and powder coated. Hopefully I can get all the small parts and piping cleaned and painted by the time it is returned.
Removing axles and all the fuel and brake lines was very easy without the body. It was a treat to have clear access to bolts without dirt and drips falling in my face. With the frame loaded on a trailer the remnants look like an archeology find.
The frame is out to be sand blasted, pickled, galvanized, and powder coated. Hopefully I can get all the small parts and piping cleaned and painted by the time it is returned.
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Haha, i knew you wouldn't hold out. You did way too much beautiful work upstairs to look at the rusty downstairs.
If you have any questions feel free to hit me up but i think you know what your doing. Just some stuff is NLA and has to be be redone, like frame brake lines and fuel lines.
And once again, what an awesome shop! good grief
If you have any questions feel free to hit me up but i think you know what your doing. Just some stuff is NLA and has to be be redone, like frame brake lines and fuel lines.
And once again, what an awesome shop! good grief
Spudman
Addicted to 60's
Mate, just read your post for the first time, awesome build and you attention to detail is spot on
- Thread starter
- #152
Haha, i knew you wouldn't hold out. You did way too much beautiful work upstairs to look at the rusty downstairs.
If you have any questions feel free to hit me up but i think you know what your doing. Just some stuff is NLA and has to be be redone, like frame brake lines and fuel lines.
And once again, what an awesome shop! good grief
Thanks, Joe. I've felt this sense of unease at not finishing a project. Frankie deserves to be finished. I've been busy working on a trail rig FJ-62 for much of the last year. It's going to be the camping truck that Frankie was originally intended to be. I should post a thread on it. Your build thread has been a great source of information and inspiration, especially the zinc plating. I was bummed that many of your pictures disappeared. Of course we read these threads 'for the articles'. Really.
Pacer and Spud, thank you for your encouragement. Spud, I've been watching your thread and am so jealous of all the cool OEM options you have that we can't get here in the States. I'm grateful I didn't have to fight as much rust as you did.
Here are a few update pics. I picked up the frame from galvanizing and delivered it to the paint shop.
It's so shiny now I'd like to assemble it as it is but I know it'll dull and look sad later. Plus the finish is rough and gritty in places. Paint won't fix that but it will hide the worst of it. Protection over pretty (at least underneath).
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Have you checked the galley plug? If that hasn't been done yet, it might be simpler to do with the engine out.
- Thread starter
- #154
Thanks. I was just reading up on it earlier this morning. There seems to be some variation in opinion on what size to tap the hole. I saw posts using M6x1.5, M8x1.25, and 1/16" NPT. Has there been a 'best option' consensus yet? I like the idea of NPT's expanding threads to get a good seal but I don't have that tap in my set. Looks like JB Weld is no good but Locktite 262 is.
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- Thread starter
- #155
When I pulled the clutch and flywheel I noticed that it was worn to the rivets. 
The fly wheel wasn't scored so much as having a rippled look to it. I don't know if this is common or not. Maybe it could be resurfaced but one of the ring gear teeth was broken too.
I went new OEM on the plate and picked up a resurfaced wheel from the guys out in Keene. It doesn't bode well for my hopes of delaying an engine overhaul to see this much wear. We'll see what the transfer case looks like.
The fly wheel wasn't scored so much as having a rippled look to it. I don't know if this is common or not. Maybe it could be resurfaced but one of the ring gear teeth was broken too.
I went new OEM on the plate and picked up a resurfaced wheel from the guys out in Keene. It doesn't bode well for my hopes of delaying an engine overhaul to see this much wear. We'll see what the transfer case looks like.
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I'll let someone else give you a recommendation about the best approach, because I haven't done mine yet. Probably gonna have to wait until the spring when I have gathered together the right angle drill and a reliable tap set.
I can tell you this, though. The size tap you decide to use should have no affect on performance (whether it is metric or standard). I like the idea of not having to drill the hole once you have removed the plug. Seems simple and elegant solution. Whether that means using metric or standard tap and bolt, what's the difference? Maybe someone else has stronger opinions.
The JB Weld is a permanent fix; won't be able to remove the bolt/threaded plug again. What are the implications? Don't know. I can't think of a repair or performance need to remove it once it is in. But if there is one, you won't be able to address it.
The LockTight is not a permanent fix. You will be able to remove the bolt/threaded plug. What are the implications? You can remove it if you need to in the future. It can also back itself out; that's why you use the LockTight. Don't know what high temperatures would do to the LockTight. Others have been happy with this solution, rechecking the new plug after a year or two; others have put two plugs in...
Only difference between this solution and the factor plug is the threads on the plug and the LockTight. If you trust those then all is well.
As far as NPT, I'm leaning more towards tapping the cast iron and being done with it. I can't image NPT threads make a stronger bond that threads that are cut out of the cast iron itself.
Maybe someone else can do a better job at convincing you of one route vs the other. Once again, haven't done mine yet either, let alone more than one over the lifetime of the engine in order to compare one solution to the other...
I Love this Sooo… much! You are accomplishing what most of us only dream of. I am doing a refresh on my cruiser too but on a very limited budget, time and space. This build makes me very happy. I just read the whole thing. I build jet aircraft for Honda for a living (Hondajet). I wish I could pull my cruiser into our hanger and do work having all the tools and space one can dream of. Working off a floor you can eat off of.
Your pics remind me of this, and it is all I will think of when I go to work tomorrow. I am right next door to 3 million dollar paint booth. It'd be nice to have access to that too. Feel lucky my friend and keep up the fantastic work. My hats off to you! I will be watching your progress!
Your pics remind me of this, and it is all I will think of when I go to work tomorrow. I am right next door to 3 million dollar paint booth. It'd be nice to have access to that too. Feel lucky my friend and keep up the fantastic work. My hats off to you! I will be watching your progress!
Thanks, Joe. I've felt this sense of unease at not finishing a project. Frankie deserves to be finished. I've been busy working on a trail rig FJ-62 for much of the last year. It's going to be the camping truck that Frankie was originally intended to be. I should post a thread on it. Your build thread has been a great source of information and inspiration, especially the zinc plating. I was bummed that many of your pictures disappeared. Of course we read these threads 'for the articles'. Really.
Pacer and Spud, thank you for your encouragement. Spud, I've been watching your thread and am so jealous of all the cool OEM options you have that we can't get here in the States. I'm grateful I didn't have to fight as much rust as you did.
Here are a few update pics. I picked up the frame from galvanizing and delivered it to the paint shop.
View attachment 838795
It's so shiny now I'd like to assemble it as it is but I know it'll dull and look sad later. Plus the finish is rough and gritty in places. Paint won't fix that but it will hide the worst of it. Protection over pretty (at least underneath).
View attachment 838796
View attachment 838797
The frame looks great! Can you give me details about the galvanizing process? What type of paint are you using? Can you paint over galvanization? If so what is the prep work? Who did the work on the frame? Was it expensive?
Zack
- Thread starter
- #160
Thank you, WGH. I'm glad this thread has gathered your interest and given you ideas for your own Cruiser. Honda may not let you bring it inside to work on it but you might find yourself in a different situation in the future. I think it would be pretty cool to work on the line assembling those jets. I bet it's spotless, efficient, and extremely high quality.
I do feel grateful to have access to this hangar. Sometimes it can get very frustrating to only have 2-3 day work windows and to need to protect the floor and keep everything so clean. Sometimes work like this is messy and requires a couple of weeks spread out. I know I will dearly miss having a heated garage when I move to my next gig.
