Frankie - '87 FJ-60 Refurbishment Plus a Few Mods

[60Works]

Thanks, Spike.

Your picture, with the probe on the aft end, made me doubt whether I had installed mine correctly. I looked, and according to the IN/OUT arrow on the cat, it is pointed the right way. The probe wire wouldn't reach if it was clocked differently. It seems to run fine and New Hampshire doesn't have smog checks so I'm good unless I move.

 

[60Works]

The new aftermarket headlight doors from SOR fit well enough and were comparable in material thickness but didn't have the sparkly grey paint on the surrounds. The lack of paint didn't seem worth how much more expensive OEM doors would have been.

I chose Roundeyes for the headlight upgrade. They look great and are definitely brighter. I haven't upgraded the wiring harness so they aren't shining to their full potential yet. We repainted the bowls black and polished the stainless clips with Neverdull.

 

[60Works]

I worried about how to how to retrieve the hood from the painters 50 miles away without scratching it, or having it blown out of the bed of a pick up, or getting ripped off a roof rack. I ended up taking the hood off of Juggernaught and driving down without it (just like Towmater). Then we bolted on the painted hood and drove home. A little extra work but no scratches.

I was surprised how much the 2F moved around. I think Jugg's motor mounts are shot.

She's finally looking like a Land Cruiser again.

 

[maat]

daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaayym! loving this build

 

[Pacer]

Sounds like you've been out driving her around?

Makes me feel bad, beating mine down while others are out there bringing them back to full glory!
Nice work!

 

[60Works]

Thanks, Maat, Pacer.

Frankie's still in progress but I've had her out in good weather long enough to pass state inspection and keep things exercised and lubed. (The carb hasn't liked being stored even with fuel treatment.) Seems like I didn't get anything done on her this winter. The pics I'm posting are from 1-2 years ago. Another page or so and the work will be real time accomplishments.

Here's a few more additions.

Little pieces of bling like the headlight doors are starting to dress her up some. I went with Stainless Steel Trays for the batteries. Excellent quality from that guy. Couldn't be happier.

 

[60Works]

I tried to add all the extra wires I could ever imagine needing to the main bundle before installing the dash and duct work. Even with the spares I still had to tie more on later. These trucks came pretty simple without many comfort electronics. I've tried to find a balance between adding systems and not trying to make the truck into an RV.

I painted the dash a lighter grey than stock. Personal preference, but I wanted it to match the seat fabric closer.

I ran a protected bundle of ten 18 ga wires from one battery tray, through and across the fire wall with service loops at the fuse panel and the instrument cluster, to the other tray. This should give me lots of spare wires to add switched signal wires to relays under the hood.

The new radio wired in with new switched and unswitched 12v service. The front/rear/sub signal wires are color coded and run in separate bundles from power wires to avoid ignition buzz.

If anyone out there felt like designing and bending up 1 DIN radio mounts to attach to the stock studs under the dash pad, I would certainly buy them. Hint. Hint.

 

[gregnash]

You're lucky my stock radio mounts were completely gone. My solution, a piece of 2x4 between the small cubby tray under the 1-din radio and the radio bottom. Pushes the radio up nicely and keeps here nice and steady. I have seen "universal" mounts for our trucks but I am thinking the next time I get in there I may try and fab something.

I know you were saying that these were a few years old but any chance you could take a side shot of the mounting system so I can see where it is actually mounting to the stereo and the dash?

 

[tclark]

What are you painting all the little odd n end stuff with? You rattle canning or using fo-real automotive paint?

 

[60Works]

I don't have a side shot, Greg, and its all back together. Sorry. The brackets are pretty simple, they run wide to use the factory bolts, which are 1 DIN wide, then angle in so 1 screw per side catches the radio chassis. Here's another, closer shot:

tclark, I tried to use professional grade paint for the external parts; either bed liner, or POR-15, or a single stage, frame black. For plastic trim pieces or interior parts, I used either SEM or Rustoleum. I think it will be sufficient if not exposed to salt. Time will tell. The SEM dark charcoal is a near perfect match for the grey/blue of the interior vinyl.

 

[60Works]

Continuing the overkill with sound block, I added more Second Skin high heat, high density foam to the hood. It's so quiet I have to look at the tach to see if the truck is idling.

New hood bumpers, front and side, and replacement plastic clips for the hood and the front and rear rubber strips. The OEM panel was in pretty good shape so I reused it.

 

[60Works]

Along with the headlight doors, SOR provided an aftermarket grill. The fit wasn't perfect but with only a little coaxing, it adjusted to conform. I reused the TOYOTA emblem after repainting it.

At this point the interior was far from finished but the exterior has all the chrome and badges. I drove it some for the novelty of having it running again after 2 years and passed state inspection.

 

[mongoose2231]

Holy crap, this truck is awesome. I must do the same to mine....

 

[drillduty]

Incredible!!

 

[SNLC]

I just read over your whole thread. And I am left thinking....

man I got a lot of work ahead of me!

I am not going to go to such extent as you but close and I will have a lot of custom stuff in my refurbish. Going to paint it myself too but your thread gives some insight into the work load ahead of me!

Well done by the way.

Cheers

 

[60Works]

Thank you Mongoose, Drill, and RMP&O, and for everyone else who has quietly returned to see more. It's a compliment every time I see the view counter go up.

At this stage I was so relieved to have Frankie drivable again, I didn't want to do any drive train work that would have her up on blocks again. So I started trying to dress up the dash. As we update and add new electronics to our Cruisers we've all felt the limits of switch locations and old and undersized wiring. I didn't want this truck to look heavily modded with gauges hanging below the dash and brackets for lights, radios, and GPS screens. Not that those can't look really cool if done right, but I wanted an OEM look where possible. Something had to go.

I'm not big on ash trays. I don't smoke and, while they are great for storing spare fuses and coins, they tend to rattle when filled. So I cut it out and used a second panel's donation to fill the gap.

Here's what I did to add switch locations:

 

[maat]

keep them pictures coming man!

 

[60Works]

After the clamps were removed I had to clean off the excess epoxy and fill in the divots. It took a fair amount of sanding to get it smooth enough to not show the cut lines after paint.

The 60's switches are a unique size and nothing new fits in those holes so I used OEM rear defroster switches with new labels. If you take them apart you can, scrape the silk screened symbol off the lens, sand and polish it with Novus until its clear again, then add whatever new symbol you wish.

This was a major PITA but, now that it's over, I like the effect.

Of course, new switches require new wiring. I tied into the other dash lights so they are lit and dim with the other lights and the orange indicator lets you know what's on. This attempt was rather messy and I'd like to try it again as an add on harness to make a cleaner install.

 

[60Works]

 

[Butt Ugly Chuck]

Wow! That switch panel looks fantastic!

Butt