Frankie - '87 FJ-60 Refurbishment Plus a Few Mods

[gregnash]

Damn looking good dude! Love that you modded the old switches, that takes some patience and I probably would have wanted to do that but ended up hacking it to fit newer switches.. How far off difference are the old switches vs new style?

Thanks for the pic of the radio bracket, so the two main screws that hand down from the top (bottom inside of dash) those are stock? I don't remember seeing them when I installed my deck but I had an aftermarket deck in there already so they may have been removed at some point. I take it your HU is basically screwed into place by the brackets? And the bracket is connected to the sleeve correct? Just asking because I do need to go in and clean up mine and my switch area is showing the normal wear on the back area and thought I might repaint just that to clean it up and add some aftermarket gauges to where you have your altimeter.

 

[tclark]

Looks fantastic!

 

[maat]

holy s*** fxxxen s***

 

[maat]

i see you changed the configuration of fhe switches once you fit them.. was that due to wiring or you changed your mind?

 

[tclark]

Where did you get the new labels for the switches?

 

[60Works]

Where did you get the new labels for the switches?

We looked for digital images of compressors and lockers and lights on the web that could be used for labels. There are lots of good switch labels out there. Unfortunately the window on the defrost switches is so small that we settled on text. We used a color laser printer on a transparency sheet then cut out the chosen labels.

The switch came with a green lens, you can see it on the table. I changed the dash lights to blue (look for a future post on LED part numbers) so we replaced the green with clear. The clear lens wasn't quite thick enough so we had to cut shims from the transparency sheet to bulk it up for a tight fit. You can see several on the desk.

The flash light was to test the look as we were experimenting.

 

[60Works]

i see you changed the configuration of fhe switches once you fit them.. was that due to wiring or you changed your mind?

Thanks, Maat, Chuck, Greg, and Clark.

I've moved the switches around several times trying to get the layout I want. I'll probably change some of the labels again too. The wiring harness runs the signal wires from the switches to terminal blocks in a junction box near the battery. The wires can be easily moved to a different terminal on the block to signal a different relay. I'll have more on the box in future posts.

 

[60Works]

**** looking good dude! Love that you modded the old switches, that takes some patience and I probably would have wanted to do that but ended up hacking it to fit newer switches.. How far off difference are the old switches vs new style?

Thanks for the pic of the radio bracket, so the two main screws that hand down from the top (bottom inside of dash) those are stock? I don't remember seeing them when I installed my deck but I had an aftermarket deck in there already so they may have been removed at some point. I take it your HU is basically screwed into place by the brackets? And the bracket is connected to the sleeve correct? Just asking because I do need to go in and clean up mine and my switch area is showing the normal wear on the back area and thought I might repaint just that to clean it up and add some aftermarket gauges to where you have your altimeter.

Found another pic that might show you what you're looking for, Greg.

The HU is held in by the sleeve. The sleeve fits into the dash with a homemade surround filling the slight gaps (1/4" on each side and 1/16" top and bottom). The front of the sleeve has tabs that are bent to grab the back of the dash pad. The back of the sleeve is supported by the homemade brackets via a screw, in sheer, on each side. The brackets use the existing OEM radio mounting studs hanging from top of the dash pad. I folded the ends of my brackets to catch the sleeve if the side screws fell out.

 

[60Works]

Playing around with switch locations.

Microphone location for the radio's Bluetooth phone connection.

 

[gregnash]

Thanks for the extra image I think I got it. Looks like I got some fab time ahead of me so I can mount some aftermarket gauges.

For the bluetooth mic, have you gotten to use it much yet? does it pick up road noise? I have the same basic looking mic but have mine mounted to the steering column for the time being.

 

[60Works]

Thanks for the extra image I think I got it. Looks like I got some fab time ahead of me so I can mount some aftermarket gauges.

For the bluetooth mic, have you gotten to use it much yet? does it pick up road noise? I have the same basic looking mic but have mine mounted to the steering column for the time being.

I've used the mic and had no problems. I considered steering column mounting and decided the A pillar was closer but I'm tall and like sitting fairly vertically. (Gotta love the Cruiser's head room.) I think it would work equally well in both locations. The excessive amount of sound block in this vehicle is also a factor. Frankie is very quiet compared to my other Cruisers.

 

[60Works]

Here are some shots of where I tucked away the 60x4 and 200x1 stereo amplifiers. The white rails are plastic wood from the local lumber yard. That may seem a little amateur shade tree but I've experimented with it in other odd applications like this and have found it to be quite durable, easy to shape, unaffected by water, non-conductive, and it helps absorb shock and vibration.

We'll see how it holds up after 10 years. I may be changing my tune.

The speaker wire is 12 GA inside a thick protective sleeve; sourced from Crutchfield. The power leads are 6 GA fed from a buss on the left hand side and run underneath the body through a 3/4" liquid tight conduit to the right side.

Getting it in there was a challenge. I ran it as far forward as possible without hitting on the C-pillar. The forward board ends are camfered to gain another 1/2"

 

[60Works]

The fuel vent had to be moved slightly. If you look close you will see the 1" spacers on the tree to get clearance for the boards.

I also took the time to dimple the sheet metal where I added screws. This allows the interior side panels to remain flush.

All buttoned up.

 

[gregnash]

Funny... I have been talking with my buddy who used to do competition audio about doing an amp for the speakers. This was almost his exact suggestion (except on the driver side). Any particular reason you went with 12AWG wire? From what he was telling me, anything over about that would be overkill unless you are pushing huge amounts, think I went with 14awg to my back speakers..

 

[60Works]

12 GA is definately overkill but it was only a few cents more per foot than the 14 GA and the run lengths to the front speakers are fairly long.

The strands are a silver color so it's possible they're tinned. I'm considering using it for external lights. I tossed a 6" section outside in the rain. We'll see how fast it turns green.

The sub amp is a mirror on the left side. It fits just forward of the tool kit.

 

[60Works]

A grommet cleans up the install.

There's about 4' of extra wire loose inside the quarter panel that can be pulled out if I want to move the speaker box around, like to set it on top of gear or turn it towards a campfire or cook table. I'd like to have a quick release mount, like a CB hand mic bracket or something, so the speakers don't come flying forward in a crash. I've seen pictures where Mudders have mounted speakers in the tailgate. It's a good idea but keeps you from using it as a prep area or from sitting on it and relaxing. Everything's a trade off.

 

[gregnash]

What about something like this? http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Ratch...stems/Anchor-Point-Tie-Down-Kit-8pc-w-2-Track

I mounted two of the disc (which I had seen the block style) in-between the ribs in the floor board in the cargo area and fashioned a fork mount bracket for my bikes. Works like a charm, discs are under the carpet so I can hide them away and they dont interfere, just slit the carpet and pull it up.

 

[Joe_E]

Wowzers.
Looking awesome.
Nice switches. What carpet kit do you have in the back there?

 

[60Works]

Thanks, Greg. I purchased some cargo rails and mounts from MAC's but they're 8' lengths. It's nice that USCargo's can be ordered in small lengths and already come powder coated.

The carpet came from CCOT, Joe. It looks decent in the pictures but its very thin and the fit required a LOT of careful adjustments. It also came molded for the early 60's were the seat pillars are part of the body. For the what the carpet cost, it wasn't worth it. I haven't found, or heard of anyone else finding, a good quality, aftermarket carpet.

Here's a shot of the passenger seat area. I started by cutting a slot for the console mounts then worked my way out from there, adding holes for the seat belts and mounts. It's important to put bolts in the holes as you go because the carpet will walk, leaving you with one side or the other fitting but not both.

Somewhen about the same time I got the front door panels hung. The window felt is new and I put 1/8" Dynamat on the back of the panel. I mounted the speakers on top of the panel and added 3/8" spacers between the panel and the frame. This gave more room for a deeper speaker and also keeps the panel from being deformed.

 

[60Works]

I added a junction box under the console serviced with both switched and unswitched power from the aux battery run on 8 GA wires. This should be enough for seat heaters, a 110V inverter, and 12V power. The unswitched power wire is coiled on top, unused, making the install look a bit messy.

Grounds are tied to the front console mount. If I were to do it again, I'd try to use a BlueSea fuse panel. The problem is size. There isn't much room so the Blue Sea wouldn't fit into a box.