Butt Ugly Chuck
Fish Biologist
Nice work!
Butt
Butt
Frankie - '87 FJ-60 Refurbishment Plus a Few Mods
- Thread starter 60Works
- Start date
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Whoa, awesome job so far. 
- Thread starter
- #23
Thank you, Maat, Chuck, and Joe. I try to load up a few more every day or so.
Here you can see the Second Skin on the roof. It stuck well to the rubberized paint on sound deadener. It's not complete coverage but it turned out very quiet.
A shot of the right rear quarter. Some of the Second Skin was black some was silver. The black foil was much thicker. The silver worked better for curved surfaces. All the fuel gaskets are new, including the large rubber disk that seals the quarter.
I expect to be hauling trailers so I picked a waterproof, premolded light socket from a local RV dealer, and plumbed in through the left rear quarter to a terminal strip. I'll put up more detail on the wiring later. It's easier to post pics by date rather than system.
Here you can see the Second Skin on the roof. It stuck well to the rubberized paint on sound deadener. It's not complete coverage but it turned out very quiet.
A shot of the right rear quarter. Some of the Second Skin was black some was silver. The black foil was much thicker. The silver worked better for curved surfaces. All the fuel gaskets are new, including the large rubber disk that seals the quarter.
I expect to be hauling trailers so I picked a waterproof, premolded light socket from a local RV dealer, and plumbed in through the left rear quarter to a terminal strip. I'll put up more detail on the wiring later. It's easier to post pics by date rather than system.
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- Thread starter
- #25
The lead vinyl is very good sound block and I wanted to reuse it. We cleaned off the smelly jute insulation, washed the vinyl thoroughly, and glued on a layer of heat foiled Second Skin.
It didn't seem thick enough so we added another layer of new synthetic jute. This was a mistake. It was nearly impossible to get the pedal bucket bolted back into place properly. I had to drop the insulation back down and cut out the jute in the sections pinned by the bucket and in a couple of spots with the heater core later.
Somewhere about the same time, the wiring harness was threaded back through the firewall.
It didn't seem thick enough so we added another layer of new synthetic jute. This was a mistake. It was nearly impossible to get the pedal bucket bolted back into place properly. I had to drop the insulation back down and cut out the jute in the sections pinned by the bucket and in a couple of spots with the heater core later.
Somewhere about the same time, the wiring harness was threaded back through the firewall.
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maat
yeah nah maybe
- Thread starter
- #27
I'm stoked to have garnered more than 1,000 views. Thanks guys.
The 'too thick' sound block where it wraps around the fresh air intake was the biggest problem. Because the blower/heater/ac boxes are plastic, the mounting ears would fail over time if they were forced into position.
When you're cutting the openings, be sure to compensate for the 90° bend or the holes won't all line up.
The 'too thick' sound block where it wraps around the fresh air intake was the biggest problem. Because the blower/heater/ac boxes are plastic, the mounting ears would fail over time if they were forced into position.
When you're cutting the openings, be sure to compensate for the 90° bend or the holes won't all line up.
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- Thread starter
- #28
Since the jute insulation on the roof was removed for paint, I needed a replacement. The local upholstery shop recommended using the same carpet pad synthetic jute. I didn't think it would stick. It's too loose and too heavy. I didn't want clumps dropping on to the headliner looking bad.
I used ordinary 1" fiberglass glued to the roof with 3M contact adhesive. I figured it wouldn't hold water as much as the stock fiber jute and it's light enough weight that, even it does eventually sag, it won't bulge the headliner.
One of the minor mods is pictured below. The last cross beam came from the donor Rusty. The mounts were on the body and I just moved one over. Perhaps the additional support was necessary for Cruisers that came with 3rd row seating.
I chose the beam that had the dome light mounting. You can see the wire installed as a provision if I want to add a 3rd dome light later. The beam and light would also come in handy if I added a rear roof console with speakers.
I used ordinary 1" fiberglass glued to the roof with 3M contact adhesive. I figured it wouldn't hold water as much as the stock fiber jute and it's light enough weight that, even it does eventually sag, it won't bulge the headliner.
One of the minor mods is pictured below. The last cross beam came from the donor Rusty. The mounts were on the body and I just moved one over. Perhaps the additional support was necessary for Cruisers that came with 3rd row seating.
I chose the beam that had the dome light mounting. You can see the wire installed as a provision if I want to add a 3rd dome light later. The beam and light would also come in handy if I added a rear roof console with speakers.
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gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Looking great dude.. This is a true labor of love!
Awesome Rig and Nice work!!!!
Subscribed!
- Thread starter
- #32
After the insulation came the hardest part of this project so far. Installing the headliner.
For any of you out there who have done this, you know exactly what I mean.
Getting the old headliner off was a job unto itself and I had to do it twice because I used the headliner out of the donor truck, Rusty. It is glued with contact cement to the body, wrapped around the pinch welds, and clamped by the window gaskets for 25 years. It is seriously on there. I used plastic scrapers where I could and resorted to a hook-style, metal paint can opener which I ground to a flat, sharp edge. The trick is to get the fabric off the metal without seperating the rubberized backing. It's nearly impossible. The bond of the contact cement is stronger than the fabric.
A 1/4" at a time, around all 3 windows and all 5 doors, I scraped, pulled, twisted, and tugged. One rip and all the effort would be wasted. I had to wash my hands often to keep from staining the clean areas with the glue residue. This took days.
Once off, I took a risk and ran the headliner through the gentle cycle in my washing machine. It worked well and cleaned up very nice, with two exceptions.
The donor truck had bad rust in the A pillars which had stained the headliner beyond all my attempts to 'Shout it Out'. I resorted to cutting off the stains and sewing on a replacement leg cut from Stinky's removed headliner.
For any of you out there who have done this, you know exactly what I mean.
Getting the old headliner off was a job unto itself and I had to do it twice because I used the headliner out of the donor truck, Rusty. It is glued with contact cement to the body, wrapped around the pinch welds, and clamped by the window gaskets for 25 years. It is seriously on there. I used plastic scrapers where I could and resorted to a hook-style, metal paint can opener which I ground to a flat, sharp edge. The trick is to get the fabric off the metal without seperating the rubberized backing. It's nearly impossible. The bond of the contact cement is stronger than the fabric.
A 1/4" at a time, around all 3 windows and all 5 doors, I scraped, pulled, twisted, and tugged. One rip and all the effort would be wasted. I had to wash my hands often to keep from staining the clean areas with the glue residue. This took days.
Once off, I took a risk and ran the headliner through the gentle cycle in my washing machine. It worked well and cleaned up very nice, with two exceptions.
The donor truck had bad rust in the A pillars which had stained the headliner beyond all my attempts to 'Shout it Out'. I resorted to cutting off the stains and sewing on a replacement leg cut from Stinky's removed headliner.
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- Thread starter
- #33
I started by hanging the fabric from the hoops and lined up the seat belt bolt holes in the B pillars. I rotated 1 hoop at a time, tugging to keep the fabric tight without wrinkles. Then glued the frabric to the body using the metal clips and door welting to keep it clamped until dry.
- Thread starter
- #34
It didn't take long before new troubles showed up. The rubberized, synthetic fabric is quite strong and durable. However, the cotton thread it's sewn with had degraded with time. When I started pulling hard around the quarter glass, it started to unravel.
I had to hand stitch a couple of inches of each edge of each seem from the C pillar back. It's been more than a year and the rest of the seems have held. I was worried they might spit.
I had to hand stitch a couple of inches of each edge of each seem from the C pillar back. It's been more than a year and the rest of the seems have held. I was worried they might spit.
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Wow, super detailed work. Very nice.
WOW!! That is amazing workmanship. I hope I have that much patience when my 62s time comes. Keep up the outstanding work. 
CRUISERS RULE!!!
-Shawn
CRUISERS RULE!!!-Shawn
- Thread starter
- #37
Thanks, Spike and Shawn.
I haven't seen much about headliners on Mud so I'm posting more pics than is necessary so the curious can see what's underneath their gaskets and trim. This is at the top of windshield.
About this time I lost patience with the headliner and rather than risk damaging it by trying to keep working while angry, I shifted to a different focus for a few days.
Here's a shot of all the interior pieces removed from the donor truck. I picked the best from the three 60's and cleaned everything to get all the dust and grime off. Much of it looks good as new.
I took the time to paint the seat legs and hardware to match the carpet. It's another of the unnoticed details but I think it looks good.
I haven't seen much about headliners on Mud so I'm posting more pics than is necessary so the curious can see what's underneath their gaskets and trim. This is at the top of windshield.
About this time I lost patience with the headliner and rather than risk damaging it by trying to keep working while angry, I shifted to a different focus for a few days.
Here's a shot of all the interior pieces removed from the donor truck. I picked the best from the three 60's and cleaned everything to get all the dust and grime off. Much of it looks good as new.
I took the time to paint the seat legs and hardware to match the carpet. It's another of the unnoticed details but I think it looks good.
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Nice. Like a fresh breath of air. Are you sure you're not going to lift it and weld on home made bumpers and 38s?
- Thread starter
- #39
The driver's door got a new window regulator. The rest where still good. I cleaned them all then spot painted them with primer and lubed them.
New OEM front seat belts and all the door hardware installed.
I reused the rear bench seat belts. They are mounted out of the sun so I don't think they are as degraded by UV as the fronts. You can also see a layer of Second Skin on the wheel wells. Of all the sound block I installed, I think covering the wheel wells made the biggest single difference in road noise.
New OEM front seat belts and all the door hardware installed.
I reused the rear bench seat belts. They are mounted out of the sun so I don't think they are as degraded by UV as the fronts. You can also see a layer of Second Skin on the wheel wells. Of all the sound block I installed, I think covering the wheel wells made the biggest single difference in road noise.
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gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Great job dude... So the front belts that you got, those are OEM correct? Are they inertia belts or are they just the standard retractable?
