I saw the install in person today, nice and clean.
PLEEEZE! Wait until he goes off-road? Won't be clean any more!
Foxes are on!
- Thread starter spressomon
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
PLEEEZE! Wait until he goes off-road? Won't be clean any more!
Don't forget......they're just a hundred yards down the street............oh wait, that's from me
bjowett
Supporting Vendor
Spressomon, nice shocks. The rezi's will work great. Also, cover up those shafts... they slide into those seals. Sooner or later the shaft may meet something a little harder than it... cheap insurance. I do allot with Fox Shox for my ATV and Snowmobile, even have all the tools to recharge and revalve, fun stuff, might try some on the cruiser some day.
mooooooooo, Koni makes top notch stuff. I run 30 series on my 80, love em. I think they offer 8240 series and monster 90 series for the 100. Both are adjustable.
mooooooooo, Koni makes top notch stuff. I run 30 series on my 80, love em. I think they offer 8240 series and monster 90 series for the 100. Both are adjustable.
- Thread starter
- #44
I spoke with Christo earlier today and he gave me a couple good ideas. When Sam gets back I want to talk with him about moving the upper rear shock mount to the top side...to get the shock approximately 3-4" farther up...then bring the lower mounts back up and actually above the stock studs (may require longer shocks). That'll relieve my worries about having the lower mounts so exposed...cause I will smack them eventually! And I plan to shield the struts with heavy rubber matting to keep debris spray from the front tires from sand blasting them into an expensive mistake
.
hoser
SILVER Star
I wonder if you move the shocks top mount inboard, will it interfere with the sway bar on full droop? Take a look at Podvin's rig. I believe he ran 14" travel shocks.
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
PLEEEZE! Wait until he goes off-road? Won't be clean any more!
The install is clean, ie very well done. Nice welds, a lot of fore thought into how things were done, etc.
spressomon wouldn't actually get his rig dirty by taking it off the pavement!!!!
- Thread starter
- #47
spressomon wouldn't actually get his rig dirty by taking it off the pavement!!!!
Yeah...it does need a bath huh?!
- Thread starter
- #48
I wonder if you move the shocks top mount inboard, will it interfere with the sway bar on full droop? Take a look at Podvin's rig. I believe he ran 14" travel shocks.
Good idea to consider Les! I'm going to talk to Sam next week about options...I know the way it is now will be trouble. Sheeesh...I was crawling around underneath last night and discovered I have bent both lower front control arm mounting flanges....and have bent the the DS t-bar mount flanges...so the protruded shock will be an easy target for me
bjowett
Supporting Vendor
Curious here, were the Fox challenger 2.0 series presented to you as an option? They have the pin/stud mount up top, just like the stockers... might not have to lower the mounts as much if they'll fit.
- Thread starter
- #50
Briefly...but I'm tired of maintaining the rear upper shock mount nut tightness (and the extremely annoying squeaking caused by the post/busing design)...and thought the eye style would eliminate that issue.
- Thread starter
- #52
Is this a joke?
No...it's a fuc8ing pain in the ass is what it is...not to mention the fuc8ing bushing squeaking...that is now 100% gone with the Fox units.
Man, your words today are hilarious!
Is that what sqeaks back there while driving down the road? The upper shock bushing? It comes and goes on mine and drives me wack wack!
- Thread starter
- #54
Man, your words today are hilarious!
Is that what sqeaks back there while driving down the road? The upper shock bushing? It comes and goes on mine and drives me wack wack!
It was on mine...gone for now and hopefully never to return! And... WARPITA those upper post style mounting nuts were to access and get tight (on a continued basis
). Might be fine for mall warriors but didn't cut it on my rig...
- Thread starter
- #55
I wonder if you move the shocks top mount inboard, will it interfere with the sway bar on full droop? Take a look at Podvin's rig. I believe he ran 14" travel shocks.
hoser: The other thing (OK...it's a thread buster but it's MY thread so what the heck huh?!) I have been wanting to take care of but after staring at the issue again last night under the rig...it's going to the top of the list. Have you either shortened your upper OR lengthened your lower link rods in back? Since the taller springs (particularly the 864's of recent addition) it has rotated the rear axle/housing clockwise...thereby forcing the coil springs to sorta arch...instead of being straight/perpendicular between the perches.
Just when I thought the "list" was getting shorter
.
that is a clever upper eye mount,
generally moving it inboard like that reduces the effectiveness of the shocks- is it minor so it doesn't affect it much? or is there a way to keep it more centered-in line with the orig. mounting.
generally moving it inboard like that reduces the effectiveness of the shocks- is it minor so it doesn't affect it much? or is there a way to keep it more centered-in line with the orig. mounting.
hoser
SILVER Star
Haha, Spresso, is it happy hour already?Man, your words today are hilarious!
As for the rear axle, instead of shortening/lengthening the links, how about just rotating the spring perch? Messing with the links sounds like it could invite some driveline vibrations and premature U-joint failure. But first of all, is it even a problem with 2-3" of lift?
Yup, another reason to get them fancy Fox shocks with the adjustable valving.
- Thread starter
- #58
Haha, Spresso, is it happy hour already?
As for the rear axle, instead of shortening/lengthening the links, how about just rotating the spring perch? Messing with the links sounds like it could invite some driveline vibrations and premature U-joint failure. But first of all, is it even a problem with 2-3" of lift?
Yup, another reason to get them fancy Fox shocks with the adjustable valving.
Beer thirty coming up...Stone IPA time! Well...I've had a driveline vibe since the big driveline conversion over a year ago (I removed the front driveshaft and the vibe 95% disappeared...although to get a baseline comparison, since driveline vibes are hard to diagnose, I have not had time to remove the rear drive-shaft to compare. The pinion and t-case flanges are not parallel...although probably at borderline range of being acceptable (the pinion points directly at the t-case output...which it should be rotated down...which would put it back to stock #1 and take care of the spring perch issue #2).
- Thread starter
- #59
The farther away from being perpendicular to the axle then the more energy it would take to initiate shock action; i.e. rougher ride until you hit the big bumps...all things being equal.
My next question is why not run 2.5" shocks in the rear
And you thought you were done... It's never done.
And you thought you were done... It's never done.
