Fox Shox 2.0's Are On!

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I have a good connection for some bilstein 7100's that seem to have the same mounting issues compared to OEM or OME. I am installing OME medium springs and need shocks and am obviously interested in the Billies due to price, but didnt want to have to custom make a mount for the shocks. From this thread it looks like I could do the same thing with the eye adaptors and busings. Where would I find these and am I correct?

You can find the eye adapters from Pro-Comp. You can search Four Wheel Part's websit to get the info. I don't have the part # anymore, but they are for a shock with 1/2" bushings.

how about passing on the info for the shop that set these up for you? I'd like to order the same so they bolt on with little issue...

What size spring lift do you need to make these worth it?

Look at page one of the thread for the shop info, it's downsouthmotorsports.com. Ask for Sonny. If you want them to bolt on with little issue, he can actually make up the shocks with at least one side having a pin or stud-type mount like factory, and make the rear lowers have a 3/4" poly bushing to fit the stock mount.

A 5-6" lift is necessary for a 10" shcok with eye adapters. Any shorter lift will require more bump-stoppping to prevent the shock from bottoming out on itself on max suspension compression. I would say an 8" travel shock would be good for lifts upto 4" since eye adapters are being used, but I think I would want a 10" shock for a 4" lift.

Hey Howsit going?

I've been lurking in this forum for some time now but haven't posted much. No LC yet, but absorbing as much info and ideas as i can for when i find the right one.

Your fox shox setup looks great, but i was wondering if you have had any issues with stones kicking up and hitting the shock body on the rears? I've read that the 80 series rear shocks are prone to stone damage. Just wondering if you've noticed anythings like this.

Since the can-side of the shock is face-up, the lower half of the shock will not get peppered, except for the chrome shaft. I'm sure the upper half, or can-side of the shock body will get some sand blasting. No way around that except there is a guard that ICON suspension came out with, but it would interfere with the resi and how it is mounted.
 
Notice any heating up of these shocks at high speeds? Under the weight of that rig i'm just curious how the 2.0 will hold up after a while and if it starts to fade or not?
Thanks
 
I will give them a good run when I'm on vacation in AZ for 2 weeks in Nov. I am sure for desert use with a bit of speed, I would need at least a 2.5" shock with a resi at each wheel. My 80 is not the 6000 lb beast that some here are, but it's heavy nontheless.
 
How do the fox 10" shocks compare to the OME L shocks in the travel, flex, and crawling ability department?
 
I dont understand how you could possibly compare OME to Fox,There seems to be alot of it though on these US based forums, in Australia, OME is seriously the base line aftermarket shock, very popular but nothing special at all. Followed by a host of superior brands and shocks after OME, and your comparing an average cheap daily driver/occasional weekend work shock to a pure bred off road racing/sports competition shock made by one of the best groups around, Fox.

Anyway, we run OME shocks in our 105 series solid axle landcruiser, they are an ok shock, to suit 4" lift, they flex well for a little 4" shock, driver well on road and perform ok off road too, no complaints at all.

I ran EFS Extreme shocks on my HDJ80 to suit a 5" lift for around two years and they were a great shock, they cream the OME in all areas although are a little stiffer, this made for better on road driving/cornering.

I have since updated my EFS shocks to Fox 2.0s with remote res's all round, the fronts being 12" travel and the rears being 14" travel. These shocks are totally amazing on and off road, they dont compare to any of the other shocks iv ever driven on, the comfort on road is unbelievable and it goes without saying that they are faultless off road and surpassed all my expectations.

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Rear, please no comments about how i could have done the mounting better im well aweare, but this is what was doable at the time without having to disconnect the remote res.

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And the results of course speak for themselves.

032-1.jpg


Note front still has heaps of flex in it even with std arms.

034-1.jpg


I highly recommend Fox, and wouldn't even consider placing them in the same league as OME, or the other 15 odd brands that would be between Fox and OME.​
 
MJ80 , Thanks for that info, cool pics!,, I have pretty much made up my mind on the Fox I like the buy once idea,,my truck deserves it!
 
I have Fox 2.0 dual bypass and 2.5 three bypass shocks on my Baja race car. I wonder if we could use a bypass shock on the Landcruiser with the valving like what you have now and then using the bypass valves to tune the suspension for different types of terrain? My 2.5 triple bypass 12" shocks were $1000 each so I am not sure I would want to run these on the Landcruiser unless they would really make a difference. I probably would not be driving on extended wooped out roads like in Baja but I do drive offroad a lot and sometimes with the right suspension setup, the faster we drive over rough stuff, the smoother the ride inside for driver and passengers.
IMG_1215.jpg
 
So it seems that most of the threads regarding these shock, and other higher end shock options for the 80 series for that matter, are all referring to installations on rigs with high levels of lift. I am not interested in lifting my rig more than 3", and I want to know if there is an option from Fox that will work for me?

According to this document...

http://www.foxracingshox.com/downloads/offroad_priceguide_09_web.pdf

There are three shock with stem mounts on the top...
980-24-635 - 8"
980-24-636 - 10"
980-24-637 - 12"

I am thinking I will need the 8" flavor... but I am unsure. My rig's suspension is completely stock right now. I have a pair of locked axles which I am planning on rebuilding and re-gearing this winter. When I install I'd like to lift at the same time. I am concerned with ride quality above all else. Primary use for my rig is street driven and hauling stuff for the home. It will see off road use 1-3 times a month (fire roads, woods trails), and rock crawl 1-2 times a year (rausch creek).

I have the fabrication talent to modify the lower mount on the front axle before installing to change it from stud type to eye type... and these stem model shocks should be fine working with the factory upper mounts, correct? I am assuming that I will reuse the bushings to allow the shock body to flex in the mount?

Are there any vendors in the US who sell these shocks pre-valved?
 
So it seems that most of the threads regarding these shock, and other higher end shock options for the 80 series for that matter, are all referring to installations on rigs with high levels of lift. I am not interested in lifting my rig more than 3", and I want to know if there is an option from Fox that will work for me?

According to this document...

http://www.foxracingshox.com/downloads/offroad_priceguide_09_web.pdf

There are three shock with stem mounts on the top...
980-24-635 - 8"
980-24-636 - 10"
980-24-637 - 12"

I am thinking I will need the 8" flavor... but I am unsure. My rig's suspension is completely stock right now. I have a pair of locked axles which I am planning on rebuilding and re-gearing this winter. When I install I'd like to lift at the same time. I am concerned with ride quality above all else. Primary use for my rig is street driven and hauling stuff for the home. It will see off road use 1-3 times a month (fire roads, woods trails), and rock crawl 1-2 times a year (rausch creek).

I have the fabrication talent to modify the lower mount on the front axle before installing to change it from stud type to eye type... and these stem model shocks should be fine working with the factory upper mounts, correct? I am assuming that I will reuse the bushings to allow the shock body to flex in the mount?

Are there any vendors in the US who sell these shocks pre-valved?

The original poster stated that the shocks were: 980-14-032-A 10" shocks. He also stated he was able to order the shocks so that he didnt need any custom brackets. I would call the manufacturer if you want more details, but it might be helpful to know the specifics of your bushing and stud sizes you have first.
 
The original poster stated that the shocks were: 980-14-032-A 10" shocks. He also stated he was able to order the shocks so that he didnt need any custom brackets. I would call the manufacturer if you want more details, but it might be helpful to know the specifics of your bushing and stud sizes you have first.

I appreciate the feedback, but as I stated in my post, my planned setup is quite different from the 6" lift that the original poster is running.

He is using the 980-14-032-A (which are no longer available BTW) which are 10" travel, and since they are eye on each end, their effective length is longer than the typical "L" shock, as evidenced by the picture in his post.

I am planning 2.5" to 3" lift as a maximum. Here is my suspension plan minus shocks...

Ironman TOY024B & TOY025B springs, and possible 30mm spring packers depending on how the ride height ends up. 3.5* front castor correction bushings. Swaybar drops and extended brake lines, probably the ironman steering damper, but it might end up OME... not sure yet.

For example, Slee sells "L" shocks with their 4" and 6" lifts, but standard length shocks with their 2.5" kit.

Since I'm going to end up with much less lift than the OP, I'm under the assumption that I will need shorter shocks than he used. That is why I posted the options I did...

If I order the Fox shocks with the stud mount on one end, will an 8" suffice, or can I still run a 10" travel shock? I am thinking 8" but I was looking for some confirmation from the experts. My shock mounts are stock on both ends right now, but if I get the Fox shocks with the stud mount on one end, and modify the lower mount on my front axle, the shock may end up being nearly bolt-in.
 
I appreciate the feedback, but as I stated in my post, my planned setup is quite different from the 6" lift that the original poster is running.

He is using the 980-14-032-A (which are no longer available BTW) which are 10" travel, and since they are eye on each end, their effective length is longer than the typical "L" shock, as evidenced by the picture in his post.

I am planning 2.5" to 3" lift as a maximum. Here is my suspension plan minus shocks...

Ironman TOY024B & TOY025B springs, and possible 30mm spring packers depending on how the ride height ends up. 3.5* front castor correction bushings. Swaybar drops and extended brake lines, probably the ironman steering damper, but it might end up OME... not sure yet.

For example, Slee sells "L" shocks with their 4" and 6" lifts, but standard length shocks with their 2.5" kit.

Since I'm going to end up with much less lift than the OP, I'm under the assumption that I will need shorter shocks than he used. That is why I posted the options I did...

If I order the Fox shocks with the stud mount on one end, will an 8" suffice, or can I still run a 10" travel shock? I am thinking 8" but I was looking for some confirmation from the experts. My shock mounts are stock on both ends right now, but if I get the Fox shocks with the stud mount on one end, and modify the lower mount on my front axle, the shock may end up being nearly bolt-in.

The 10" is likely a bit long eye to eye with the adapters for a 3" lift. You will need to measure you mount to mount distances, front and rear, and then compare to the compressed and extended length of the shock you want to run.

A simple example:

Mount to mount distance is 21".

Compressed shock length is 16", Extended length is 26", (10" travel) Eye to Eye design.

Eye adapter mounts will compress the shock 2.5", so net after eye adapters is 18.5".

You will only have 2.5" of up travel and 7.5" down. Not ideal. A pin style shock wit those same specs could be ideal.

I would not go 8", that is really a bit short. Bilstein has a short body 10" travel shock in the 7100 series and I would take a good look at those.

But you have to measure your own rig, and then choose your shock length accordingly.

Good luck :cheers:
 
The 10" is likely a bit long eye to eye with the adapters for a 3" lift. You will need to measure you mount to mount distances, front and rear, and then compare to the compressed and extended length of the shock you want to run.

A simple example:

Mount to mount distance is 21".

Compressed shock length is 16", Extended length is 26", (10" travel) Eye to Eye design.

Eye adapter mounts will compress the shock 2.5", so net after eye adapters is 18.5".

You will only have 2.5" of up travel and 7.5" down. Not ideal. A pin style shock wit those same specs could be ideal.

I would not go 8", that is really a bit short. Bilstein has a short body 10" travel shock in the 7100 series and I would take a good look at those.

But you have to measure your own rig, and then choose your shock length accordingly.

Good luck :cheers:

Thank you for your feedback! I'm assuming ideal is equal up and down travel? (Since your example without the adaptors would be 5" up and down)
 
I appreciate the feedback, but as I stated in my post, my planned setup is quite different from the 6" lift that the original poster is running.

He is using the 980-14-032-A (which are no longer available BTW) which are 10" travel, and since they are eye on each end, their effective length is longer than the typical "L" shock, as evidenced by the picture in his post.

I am planning 2.5" to 3" lift as a maximum. Here is my suspension plan minus shocks...

Ironman TOY024B & TOY025B springs, and possible 30mm spring packers depending on how the ride height ends up. 3.5* front castor correction bushings. Swaybar drops and extended brake lines, probably the ironman steering damper, but it might end up OME... not sure yet.

For example, Slee sells "L" shocks with their 4" and 6" lifts, but standard length shocks with their 2.5" kit.

Since I'm going to end up with much less lift than the OP, I'm under the assumption that I will need shorter shocks than he used. That is why I posted the options I did...

If I order the Fox shocks with the stud mount on one end, will an 8" suffice, or can I still run a 10" travel shock? I am thinking 8" but I was looking for some confirmation from the experts. My shock mounts are stock on both ends right now, but if I get the Fox shocks with the stud mount on one end, and modify the lower mount on my front axle, the shock may end up being nearly bolt-in.

FWIW I was/am in the same boat (~3" of lift and wanting to run fox stuff) but I really don't think there is a good bolt-on option, at least for the front.

With the non-J springs, I needed a shock somewhere between 24-26 extended and 14-15 compressed to not loose a spring or over compress the shock.

Using the MAF adapter which measures 1 5/8", the 8" stem top fox would be at 22.75/14.75 which is way too short on extension, IMO. The 10" Fox would be at 26.75/16.75 which would for my setup require a 2" bumpstop drop and maybe a 1" spring spacer.

Using the standard 2.0 Fox's, its a similar situation but one more adapter in the mix. The 8.5 is about the closest, but would still require bump stop drops on my rig. (26/17.5)

If you modify your lower mount like you said, that opens up quite a bit of options and you'd really have to get under there with a tape measure and figure out where your new lower mounting surface is and if you could run 10" stem tops (ie if you lowered the mounting surface).

For the rear, you could probably get away with running the 10 stem tops since (I don't think) adapters would be required. Potentially just a lowered bump stop.
 
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Thank you for your feedback! I'm assuming ideal is equal up and down travel? (Since your example without the adaptors would be 5" up and down)

For high speed overland travel you might want a slight up travel bias. Other than that, 50/50 up/down is what I recommend (and run). I don't personally want more than a 10" travel shock - I don't pick up tires due to shock travel and have good balance front to rear (to the extent that can be achieved with the stock 80 front radius arms). I wheel with the front swaybar removed, rear remains installed.

I'd shoot more for a 4" lift - it will be easy to run a 10" travel shock in that setup and you don't really lose anything vs. a 2.5" lift. But if you really want to stay lower, take a good look at those Bilstein short body 7100's - that's what I'd run on a 2.5" lift in the 10" travel flavor if I had a good budget for shocks (which you will need for the Fox's, too).

Plenty of people are going with longer shocks and are certainly successful, so it's important to design around your objectives.

:D
OCG Rock Pile 110610.jpg
 
50/50 is extreme ! the general consensus for 90% of low range driving is more like 80/20 D/U !!
 
2/3 down travel and 1/3 up travel is the recommendation...
 
On my 4" lift, I"m running 10" 7100 RES shocks (eye adapter top & bottom). On the rear, 12" 7100 RES shocks with an adapter ONLY on the bottom (per FirstToy). The top rear bilstein eye was removed and a stud was welded on.

There's a rubber O ring that is present on the shaft of all 7100 shocks and it helps you figure out how far the shocks are compressing. In my case, I'm about 1/2" shy from bottoming out both sets of shocks upon full stuffage. HTH.
 

Wouldnt this bolt on in the rear and require a eye pin mod on one end for the front ?? apparently Sonny can do this mod

Fox 980-24-636(pin/eye) = 25.19” ext 15.19” collapsed

 
lots of good information in this thread!

so i have a line on a sweet deal of 2.0 piggy backs. they are currently set-up as coil shocks; but far as i can tell they are just like the non-coils with a threaded body. do you guys think that they'll work on an 80? after reading this thread i would shoot for a 4" lift...5 max if i have to in order to properly utilize the shock but 4" would be ideal
 

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