- Thread starter
- #61
Sweet, thanks. I should probably dial-in the timing again anyway...
Found Water In Oil (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Aaron from Texas
- Start date
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Sweet, thanks. I should probably dial-in the timing again anyway...
- Thread starter
- #62
Still slow going... And no pics this time, as I was in go-mode trying to beat the sun last night. Removed the push rod cover gasket, and found no signs of water ingress from the freeze plugs, or if they were out of place at all.
Everything went pretty smooth, but getting that old cork gasket off was rough. I eventually took it to a wire wheel on my bench grinder. That showed 'er.
Did the distributor o-ring also since I had it out for access. Old one was so hard and brittle it just broke off...
Everything went pretty smooth, but getting that old cork gasket off was rough. I eventually took it to a wire wheel on my bench grinder. That showed 'er.
Did the distributor o-ring also since I had it out for access. Old one was so hard and brittle it just broke off...
- Thread starter
- #63
Made an EGR block-off plate tonight.
Started off with some 1/4" aluminum bar stock...
And through the power of television...
Started off with some 1/4" aluminum bar stock...
And through the power of television...
Looks good!
My '94 has to pass a visual and tailpipe in the county i live in, so i can't actually remove EGR.
But i hear that on the '94 1fz i can just short out the temp sensor and it is effectively disabled.
My '94 has to pass a visual and tailpipe in the county i live in, so i can't actually remove EGR.
But i hear that on the '94 1fz i can just short out the temp sensor and it is effectively disabled.
- Thread starter
- #65
Well, with the help of Aggiesdm and newbtrayback, I got the head back in place and torqued down. There were no numbers to go along with the sequence, so I just went 15 ft-lbs, 30 ft-lbs, 60 ft-lbs, and then the final 90 ft-lbs.
Aggiesdm
***** Regular
Good time
Hey Aaron, good job and lots of fun working with you yesterday. Let me know when you're ready to tackle the rest and I'll try to help if I can!
BTW, Aaron is a heck of a home brewer!!
Hey Aaron, good job and lots of fun working with you yesterday. Let me know when you're ready to tackle the rest and I'll try to help if I can!
BTW, Aaron is a heck of a home brewer!!
- Thread starter
- #67
Thanks man!
Had an unpleasant discovery today. On the left was the wilted, bent remnants of a straight hose some yahoo attempted to fit as the bypass hose, and to the right is the correct replacement.
Had an unpleasant discovery today. On the left was the wilted, bent remnants of a straight hose some yahoo attempted to fit as the bypass hose, and to the right is the correct replacement.
- Thread starter
- #68
Well... I was very busy working on this the last couple days...
While I had everything apart, I sent the injectors out to be cleaned...
Before:
After:
Before, the plastic tips were black, cracked and falling off. I've used Hurst Injector Service for my motorcycles, and have had excellent results. This was no different. He replaced all of the tips, o-rings, and grommets. All included for $96 for 6 injectors. Great guy.
So I commenced getting everything else put together.
One thing noted, since a fair amount was taken off the deck, all the valve needed to be taken out a fair amount. They must have been pretty tight to begin with, (remember folks, valves get tighter) because none of the rockers would budge at TDC or 360 from TDC...
I also figured I would post a picture of this. I haven't seen a pic of this before, but this is the cover for my timing hole. It's just a rubber plug. I had a hard time finding this, til' I reached down there and found something "rubbery" and pull it out. So here's what to look for...
And this is where I finished off today.
The only issue I've run into is the plug for the grounding wire on the thermostat housing. It just fell off while messing with it. Since it's just a spade connector, I should be able to find a female spade I can crimp on...
While I had everything apart, I sent the injectors out to be cleaned...
Before:
After:
Before, the plastic tips were black, cracked and falling off. I've used Hurst Injector Service for my motorcycles, and have had excellent results. This was no different. He replaced all of the tips, o-rings, and grommets. All included for $96 for 6 injectors. Great guy.
So I commenced getting everything else put together.
One thing noted, since a fair amount was taken off the deck, all the valve needed to be taken out a fair amount. They must have been pretty tight to begin with, (remember folks, valves get tighter) because none of the rockers would budge at TDC or 360 from TDC...
I also figured I would post a picture of this. I haven't seen a pic of this before, but this is the cover for my timing hole. It's just a rubber plug. I had a hard time finding this, til' I reached down there and found something "rubbery" and pull it out. So here's what to look for...
And this is where I finished off today.
The only issue I've run into is the plug for the grounding wire on the thermostat housing. It just fell off while messing with it. Since it's just a spade connector, I should be able to find a female spade I can crimp on...
Aggiesdm
***** Regular
NIce Work
Can't wait to hear her roar again! Great work. Now you have me thinking about sending my injectors for a rebuild
Can't wait to hear her roar again! Great work. Now you have me thinking about sending my injectors for a rebuild
X2! I am refurbishing my cooling system currently but a thorough tuneup is on my short list.
Keep up the great work! I think it is cool that there are 3 of y'all in close proximity working on 3FE 80 series trucks helping each other out.
Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
Do they also test the injectors for spray pattern, volume, etc.?
- Thread starter
- #72
Yes, and I meant to post this...
Needless to say, they were quite dirty. Should be runnin' much better...
- Thread starter
- #73
Well. Fart.
Got everything back together, and ran for about a week... Noticed I'm still losing coolant, and look at that...the oil is white, and the level is up again.
So, I'm putting this project on hold. I'm gonna attack my '87 XL600R so I can have some wheels for the time being.
Not sure if I'm gonna just part 'er out, or see about a full rebuild. I'm still gonna bypass the oil cooler to make certain that is not the cause (would hate to see that it was after all this) and double check those freeze plugs. Not sure what I could get out of a parted out 92...
Got everything back together, and ran for about a week... Noticed I'm still losing coolant, and look at that...the oil is white, and the level is up again.
So, I'm putting this project on hold. I'm gonna attack my '87 XL600R so I can have some wheels for the time being.
Not sure if I'm gonna just part 'er out, or see about a full rebuild. I'm still gonna bypass the oil cooler to make certain that is not the cause (would hate to see that it was after all this) and double check those freeze plugs. Not sure what I could get out of a parted out 92...
oh man, that's a bummer! I'd definitely check into that oil cooler before you throw in the towel.
CruiseOrlando
Conveniently Enhanced
I'd sure be using a lot more choice 4-letter words other than 'fart' if I were in your shoes!
Did you check the block deck for any warpage as well? Is the block clean enough that you can check for any new oil or coolant leakage on the outside of the block at the headgasket?
If the issue is the block, I'd suggest finding a "good" used 3fe engine or block and swapping your nicely refinished head to that engine.
- Thread starter
- #77
That's my next plan. Change the oil, bypass the oil cooler and see what happens...
A warped block is just too rare. No external leaks...
That's probably gonna be my next-next route...
powermad
%##@*&^%
I see lots of oil cooler failures, not on these but a coolant cooled oil cooler works the same no matter the application.
You do get some coolant in the oil but the oil gets into the coolant system as well and usually makes a huge mess of the coolant system.
Oil pressure will overcome the coolant pressure and start pumping oil into the coolant system if there is a crack in the core.
When the engine is shut off the pressure from the coolant will go into the oil until the pressure drops.
Start it up and it will have 30 psi oil pressure pumping it into the coolant making a gooey mess.
If the radiator is not oil fouled I would look elsewhere for the leak.
Unless the core is cracked so bad that it fills the crankcase up when you fill the coolant.
You do get some coolant in the oil but the oil gets into the coolant system as well and usually makes a huge mess of the coolant system.
Oil pressure will overcome the coolant pressure and start pumping oil into the coolant system if there is a crack in the core.
When the engine is shut off the pressure from the coolant will go into the oil until the pressure drops.
Start it up and it will have 30 psi oil pressure pumping it into the coolant making a gooey mess.
If the radiator is not oil fouled I would look elsewhere for the leak.
Unless the core is cracked so bad that it fills the crankcase up when you fill the coolant.
- Thread starter
- #79
Yeah, the coolant has been fine. That's been my main source of concern that it wasn't the cooler...
Checking in. Have you been able to make progress or find your leak? I'm in the midst of a HG replacement and came across your thread. The thought of getting it all back together only to still have a leak would drive me nuts. Until I hear otherwise, I'm going to assume it was something minor and you're driving the rig daily... full of puppies... or boobies, I don't know. But I sure as hell don't want to believe it's for not.
