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- #61
As long as the engine doesn't get rolled over I just mark where the distributor and rotor are and install in same position.
Sweet, thanks. I should probably dial-in the timing again anyway...
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As long as the engine doesn't get rolled over I just mark where the distributor and rotor are and install in same position.
Can't wait to hear her roar again! Great work. Now you have me thinking about sending my injectors for a rebuild
Do they also test the injectors for spray pattern, volume, etc.?
Well. Fart.
Well, another mini update. They had to take 18 thou off to straighten the head, so it was much, much more warped that we initially thought. Certainly an issue.
I'll pick it up later today, and then wait for my order of gaskets to come in...
Gonna drill out the oil galley plug, tap it for 1/8" NPT and plug it. Also gonna test the oil cooler myself...
oh man, that's a bummer! I'd definitely check into that oil cooler before you throw in the towel.
Did you check the block deck for any warpage as well? Is the block clean enough that you can check for any new oil or coolant leakage on the outside of the block at the headgasket?
If the issue is the block, I'd suggest finding a "good" used 3fe engine or block and swapping your nicely refinished head to that engine.
I see lots of oil cooler failures, not on these but a coolant cooled oil cooler works the same no matter the application.
You do get some coolant in the oil but the oil gets into the coolant system as well and usually makes a huge mess of the coolant system.
Oil pressure will overcome the coolant pressure and start pumping oil into the coolant system if there is a crack in the core.
When the engine is shut off the pressure from the coolant will go into the oil until the pressure drops.
Start it up and it will have 30 psi oil pressure pumping it into the coolant making a gooey mess.
If the radiator is not oil fouled I would look elsewhere for the leak.
Unless the core is cracked so bad that it fills the crankcase up when you fill the coolant.