Builds "Forsaken 40" ~ 1st Frame-off Build

[Drake2]

Finished stripping the remaining items from the dash so the tub can move along to body work and paint, someday, hopefully

Did some digging into what the PO used to fill in unwanted holes in the dash . He put a small, thin piece of metal behind the holes and then brazed them on (I think it's brazed), and filled with putty

 

[Jdc1]

Finished stripping the remaining items from the dash so the tub can move along to body work and paint, someday, hopefully

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Did some digging into what the PO used to fill in unwanted holes in the dash . He put a small, thin piece of metal behind the holes and then brazed them on (I think it's brazed), and filled with putty

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The early dash is really cool.

 

[FishTacos]

Finished stripping the remaining items from the dash so the tub can move along to body work and paint, someday, hopefully

View attachment 2225655

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Did some digging into what the PO used to fill in unwanted holes in the dash . He put a small, thin piece of metal behind the holes and then brazed them on (I think it's brazed), and filled with putty

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Yep. Brazed. And badly.

 

[Drake2]

Yep. Brazed. And badly.

@FishTacos do you know if using a torch tip and heating it is the best way to remove the brazing? I looked online and I really could not find much about removing brazing, only how to braze.

 

[FishTacos]

@FishTacos do you know if using a torch tip and heating it is the best way to remove the brazing? I looked online and I really could not find much about removing brazing, only how to braze.

You can get brass to flow with a mapp gas torch. There will be a mess and you will probably damage the dash.

You could cut and grind it out but you have access issues on the back of the dash panel.

If you can get your hands on an oxy/propane torch and a VERY small tip you can get the brass to flow little by little and push the patch away from the dash. You will probably get some distortion that way too.

Unbrazing a bicycle tube is much easier because the joint is a vey tight fit and you can heat the whole lug without distorting it and slide the tube out when the brass flows.

 

[Drake2]

Well, it was difficult to do cruiser work tonight while @UltraFJ40 was on my mind but I did manage to get the rear bearings pulled (knocked) out of the centered rear axle. I got some clarification on technique from @Cruiser_Nerd about the best way to remove these little bastards. Now I can finally start the beautification process on the housing. Next will be some wire wheel action, paint stripper, degreaser, and new paint. Also need to remove the OEM studs and re-drill and tap for the larger studs to accommodate the 1980 differential.

 

[Drake2]

I was going through cruiser progress withdrawal so went to work on the rear housing from @Tank5 . Pulled the M8 studs so I could clean the housing. After the new hardware shows up I can drill and tap for M10-1.25 studs to match the holes of the newer differential.

Rear housing before the cleaning process

Rear housing after cleaning with a Milwaukee angle grinder and twisted wire cup wheel....about 1 hour total cleaning time.

Clearly this housing has seen a lot of action

Time to buy a gallon of Oil Eater degreaser and figure out which semi-gloss black paint to use (POR15, Chassis Saver, Eastwood, Etc...). If you have any suggestions on the paint (rust inhibitor) please let me know.

Thanks,
Drake

 

[macdaddy59]

I use tamco chassis black epoxy

 

[Drake2]

I use tamco chassis black epoxy

Thanks, I will check that out.

 

[Drake2]

Been a while since making any progress here but here is a small update. Looks like when the body comes off there will be a good amount of time removing/fixing PO related "good ideas". Although this will be receiving a Chevy SB400 I am pretty sure the mounts should all come off so I am starting with a clean slate. What the Po was thinking with some of this I have no clue, all i do not is that I am going to be eating grinding dust for days.

 

[Drake2]

Continued....

These "caps" can probably stay......1st time I have seen anyone do this.

 

[Braden620]

Looking forward to this build. Hey, while you have those differentials apart, throw some ARB air lockers in for fun!

 

[DirtDauberGarage]

Has anyone seen had this happen to their races (Koyo 303030) ? When I disassembled the knuckles everything had decent grease and nothing was dry other than the exposed outer surface of the knuckle balls. I would estimate these wear spots to be 0.003"-0.005" deep. Both upper and lower races had the same effect but the lower ones are the worst. The axle is from an 02/1980 FJ40.

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I replaced mine in my 1977 FJ40 about a year ago and they had a similar wear pattern. Not quite as bad though.

 

[Drake2]

I replaced mine in my 1977 FJ40 about a year ago and they had a similar wear pattern. Not quite as bad though.

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Interesting stuff.

 

[Spring Grover]

Trying to decide on a paint color/shade for when the time comes. I was originally thinking the Audi Nardo grey which is similar to Toyota Cement Grey, then I was looking at the nice blue on the newer Tundras, then back to the grey again ..........Then a couple months ago I found it by accident and I knew it would be the one. Copperhead metallic is what it will be but there are many different shades to it. I have included below a couple different versions but I think I am leaning more towards the shiny one. Not 100% on that, maybe it will be somewhere between them. The darker (on the 40) one has some pearl in it as well. Maybe just different lighting, not sure. This will be a daily driver weekend trail rig but garage kept in the winter. Paint thoughts?

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IDK, you're rig seems to gravitate towards blue, jmo. Nice write up, I'm in the thick of it here too, when does the madness end! Bringing tub to body guy tomorrow actually, pound out a few dents and plug the same aux tank hole you have there. He goes, "you're crazy,..frame off on an FJ? Those things have a million parts!"
Don't we know! Race is on, laying paint 1 month ( i hope)

 

[Drake2]

IDK, you're rig seems to gravitate towards blue, jmo. Nice write up, I'm in the thick of it here too, when does the madness end! Bringing tub to body guy tomorrow actually, pound out a few dents and plug the same aux tank hole you have there. He goes, "you're crazy,..frame off on an FJ? Those things have a million parts!"
Don't we know! Race is on, laying paint 1 month ( i hope)

Tick tock, tick tock...........I don't know where you find all the free time, damn. No blue, not gonna happen

 

[Drake2]

I use tamco chassis black epoxy

Just FYI, I did end up buying 4 qts of the TAMCO for the frame and axles. Thanks for the suggestion! Will post pics when the paint is on.

 

[Drake2]

Finally bringing the California 67 home from 14 months of temporary storage at the employment work shop to the home work shop. Let the transformation progress begin! After an unsuccessful attempt to flat tow it, we had to go with a rented tow dolly.

 

[Drake2]

I'm going to try to post daily updates now that the actual work is now moving forward.

The teardown has begun by soaking all the existing nuts and bolts with AMSOIL MP. The goal here is to get the tub ready to take off and prep for chemical dip by Redi-Strip. While the tub bolts are soaking I am spending time removing shocks, brake lines, and general PO BS. Hope to have the tub off tonight to reveal the frame in in entirety.

Just some old Mickey Thompson Challenger shocks and what I believe is an old Heckethorn (HECO) stabilizer. Can't remember the last time I saw a Heckethorn product. Here a little history on them.

Heckethorn Manufacturing Company | Littleton CO

Will have to clean this (aux fuel door pocket) up after the chemical dip.

Looks like the PO just cut, cut, and cut.....only to push the sheet metal in and leave it to cut the next guy who reaches up there?

 

[Drake2]

More progress

Got the Con Ferr aux tank dropped and the early Bronco Scout rear seat out. Only 4 bolts left and the tub comes off! Soaking all the hardware for sure made this all come out with ease. Day 2 of no busted hardware