Fog Light Wiring Kit for a 60- Any Suggestions? (1 Viewer)

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DrRock

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Hello All, I've got some fog lights I want to install and was wondering if anyone can recommend a good harness kit they liked. I'll be installing them on the top of my front bumper. I'm leaning towards the ARB one but wanted some other input. I've looked on Amazon but many seem of questionable quality.

Cheers, James
 
Not for purchase, but my method is to buy quality wire, set of male/female yazaki terminals and connectors. Crimp together and cover in quality wire loom with some heat shrink at the ends. Beauty about IPF lights is that they use yazaki/sumitomo connectors and makes it all a breeze. Just need to route to your choice of switch inside.
 
I'm about to do this job as well. My plan is to run a relay, so that I don't have a high amp circuit under the dash.

Hot wire from battery to the "30" pin on relay (with inline fuse; choose fuse size based on the amperage drawn by the lights [divide light wattage by voltage to get amperage, eg. 150w total/12v = 12.5 Amp draw]).

Wires to lights from "87" pin on relay.

Connect the feed from the dash switch to "85" pin on the relay.

Ground "86" pin.

This method shortens the path for the high current draw circuit and allows you to run a lighter-duty switch.

I'm planning to run floods that will come on with the high beams, but I'm also adding a dash switch that will allow me to turn them off if not needed.
 
Fog lights are easy. To make them truly legal however you should wire the power wire so that they can only turn on with the low beams. 1 or two relays, some wire, a fuse or two, a dash switch, some heat shrink and terminals and some protective sheathing. I recommend using something like weather pack connectors

for clarity I mean the relay trigger wire should pass through a fuse, the dash switch, and the stock headlight low beam ground wire (assuming stock headlight wiring). The other end will go to battery positive. Then when your low beam is on and the dash switch is on your trigger circuit will have a path to ground and activate the lights. When you flip to hi beam orturn the dash switch off the circuit will be broken and lights off.
 
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Good Evening All,
Thank you for the responses. I intend to run a relay since I have a nice set of Cibie IODE 40's I'm installing. Was looking for something period correct and these fell into my lap. These lights run H2 bulbs which are available in 55w or 100w. I'd like the option to run the 100w so I can use these off road so I'll need proper wire gauge for that type of wattage, plus I intend to use a switch from @ToyotaMatt to keep it stock in the cabin.

I'll update once I've gotten closer to a solution here so that others may benefit.

Cheers, James
 
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Good Evening All,
Thank you for the responses. I intend to run a relay since I have a nice set of Cibie IODE 40's I'm installing. Was looking for something period correct and these fell into my lap. These lights run H2 bulbs which are available in 55w or 100w. I'd like the option to run the 100w so I can use these off road so I'll need proper wire gauge for that type of wattage, plus I intend to use a switch from @ToyotaMatt to keep it stock in the cabin.

I'll update once I've gotten closer to a solution here so that others may benefit.

Cheers, James
Good on you for getting Cibies, they are excellent quality and have fantastic beam patterns! I originally had 45’s on my BJ 60, two fogs, and two driving lamps, all on relays. I now run two Oscars with Fog optiques and 55w bulbs, off relays and wired to operate legally.
Before you start you project, have a good look at this site, Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply . Daniel has a ton of information here, about auto lighting, what works, what doesn’t, and how to approach aftermarket lighting effectively without blinding oncoming traffic!
Oh, and by the way, be very careful of those little H2 ceramic (unobtainium!) bulb holders in your 40’s, they are as rare as hens teeth, don’t cook or break them!
 
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