Floorpan tub rust, easiest way to repair?? (1 Viewer)

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Nov 30, 2005
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Hello,

My 'new' BJ40 has rust in both floorpans.

Especially that chassis mount section does not look good.

Pics show right side floorpan after wirebrushing, rust converting and washing.

I have made sheet body parts before so I can do the basic shape / hammer / welding.

How should I repair this?

Does the tub need to come off to do it and if so, how is that done the easy way?
Maybe I can just lift the tub up a bit?
I have no idea as I have never worked on a Toyota before.

If I need to fabricate bits, I need sheet metal so what is the OEM thickness of the floorpans?
Fabrication seems viable but I don't know ho to make those swages without the right machines.

I could also mailorder floor pans (!$$!). Where should I go for that?
I noticed that the pans in the catalogue pics look different becuase I have right hand drive over here in Australia. so maybe ordering is not an option?

To sum it up, I am clueless :crybaby: Please let me have some advise.

I don't need it "like new" and I certainly do not want another huge major project.

Evey other panel in this truck has some rust or previously repaired rust as well.

Best regards
Bernt
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Depends on what you want the end product to be, the above picture would be the easiest, cost a lot of money and provide an end product with a better resell value. Bit fj40 body parts are not cheap compared to say a jeep body parts that are very similar. You can weld in some flat steel with support under it and forget about the ribbs. Will not look factory hence the lesser resale value. Either way you need to pull the body, you are looking at the tip of the iceberg. There is likely going to be a lot more parts of that body that needs to be repaired. Weld some supports and cross beams to keep the tub true before you pull it, no matter what route you go. I am just doing flat sheet metal on mine, I think I have 14 gauge since I will not have the ribs, if I had the money the red thing above is the better way to do.
 
Mine looks worse then yours. I just ordered a whole floor panel like the above picture off fleabay for $290 after shipping. At that price it wasn't worth my time to Fab my own.
 
$290 after shipping? Where on ebay did you find that? I'd love to find one for that price!!

Anyhow, they actually had a segment on Gears yesterday about replicating your own floor pans. Mock-up, refine, refine, cut, brace, and weld..... doesn't seem like it'd be all that hard as long as you have the right tools but then again, I have been accused of being naive. :D
 
Those ones on eBay are 18 gauge metal which is equivalent in thickness to a cheap stainless steel kitchen sink.
 
1tontoy said:
Looks like the ribs go the wrong way (vs. OEM) on the repro floor...

Are you thinking of the ribs on the floor portion of the cowl? Those run side to side.
 
I would pull the tub, if you can see that, what can't you see. Having no idea where you live I could not advise on where to go....that said many people here can give good advice once you determine the extent of the rot.....
 
The ones on ebay the ribs are also a lot smaller then stock. If you search for "fj40 floor pan" you will find them, $199 or $219 buy it now. I would just plan on adding some extra floor support under it and you probably would be OK. I think the floor pans in the late 70's went to 18 gauge according to posts I found.
 
I can't remember where but I saw several reputable cruiser part suppliers selling 18g floor pans.
 
There is a thread on here where a guy in Aus. made his own floor pans with ribs using a hammer and a few chisels and other common tools. Looked good too. I think I saved some pic or something. I'll look
Found a few pics I saved for ref but have not found the thread yet. This guy made a template and you see the final results?

Rob
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You recommend an early floor pan on a late model rig? :flipoff2:

Make sure you get parts for a 1979-1984 40 series! That floor pan mentioned above is for an earlier cruiser.

The late-model floor pans are a bitch to weld in and have them look good. The curved edges on the tranny hump make it difficult. All of the repro pans are going to need some work. The easiest way is to spend the most money getting the best possible product. If your time is worth anything to you, you'll save money in the long run. I recommend Paul Pilgrim's sheet metal. Most of the stuff on ebay is crap. Then again, a lot of the other aftermarket parts are crap, too.

You're going to need a welder, some sheet metal to make your own cowl/body mount patches, and a LOT of patience! I also purchased a cheap bead roller to make some firewall patches. This is a lot of time-consuming, hard work. I did this exact same work on my truck and had to drag myself out to the garage every night to get it done.

Also, I wouldn't be scared of 18ga sheet metal unless you're concern is about burning through while welding. A LOT of the aftermarket panels are 18ga. The orginal sheet metal was around the same thickness. It sure as hell wasn't 16ga!
 
Last edited:
Splangy said:
You recommend an early floor pan on a late model rig? :flipoff2:

I guess I should have printed "facsimile" on the picture.
 
Back when 40s weren't worth much... I used 1/8"to rebuild the floor and inner fenders. I've got excelent weight distribution and a better ride than in man 40s.
 
I have read where the late 70's the fj40's were made out of thinner steel, went to about 18 gauge. I cannot find anything, but weren't the floors still a little thicker. If you google most of the quality body panels are reproduced in 16 gauge.
 
Ok here's what you do:

1) Get yourself a wire wheel cup and wire wheel the Sh!t out of that floor.
2) cut yourself some angle iron that fits along the length of that outer rail.
3) weld that in - you have somewhere to start now.
4) get some sheet metal... start being an artist and make it fit like a dream
5) cut out the old metal where the new will overlap
6) weld
7) grind
8) paint
9) smile
 

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