Floor Pan Repair

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Before Pic...
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Lincoln Pro-MIG 140

Hey Alex,

Sorry for the hijack. I'm in the same boat as you with respect to rusted floor pans. Have been toying with the idea of buying a cheapo Harbor Freight welder and teaching myself welding basics. I just found this NIB Lincoln Pro-MIG 140 on the local Craigslist for $250--the seller claims he's desperate to unload it before Christmas.

Lincoln Electric at Lowe's: Pro MIG 140-Amp Welder

Anyone have an opinion on this unit for a newbie welder? Seems like an excellent price on a name brand kit, but I'm totally ignorant about such things.

Thanks,
Lee
 
I am no welding expert by a long shot. In my years of welding ****, the best brand for me is Miller. I have done a bunch of welding on sheet metal. I have a Miller 210. I set it on the lowest setting and use .023 wire. I have had good luck with stitch welding sheetmetal

Here is the best shot I have of the 4runner, I use to have (sold it for the 40 :D). The picture shows the 10 inch bob and the 4 inch stretch on the fender. There is no body filler on that stuff.
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One more thing to watch out for is grinding. I have had sheetmetal warp from grinding not the actual welding!:doh: I like to use flapper wheels to grind. Taking your time is the key to sheetmetal work. Goodluck!:cheers:
 
Stay Away from the Harbor Freight welder it is not set up to do a whole lot. You get what you pay for ~ only two heat settings: Low and High.

I think the Craigslist one you saw would be fine. I wanted to get one with gas as creates a cleaner weld, although you probably cant tell by looking at my welds :p.
 
KY Longhunter said:
Stay Away from the Harbor Freight welder it is not set up to do a whole lot. You get what you pay for ~ only two heat settings: Low and High.

I think the Craigslist one you saw would be fine. I wanted to get one with gas as creates a cleaner weld, although you probably cant tell by looking at my welds :p.
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I already chucked the HF idea. According to Lincoln's specs, the Pro-MIG 140 can be used for either wire flux or with gas for MIG welding. It comes with the regulator and hose. I'd just need to pick up a gas tank. Not sure about the output settings. Will investigate further.

Thanks,
Lee
 
At $250 you better jump on it. I lost one like that myself.

Sea Knight said:
Hey Alex,

Sorry for the hijack. I'm in the same boat as you with respect to rusted floor pans. Have been toying with the idea of buying a cheapo Harbor Freight welder and teaching myself welding basics. I just found this NIB Lincoln Pro-MIG 140 on the local Craigslist for $250--the seller claims he's desperate to unload it before Christmas.

Lincoln Electric at Lowe's: Pro MIG 140-Amp Welder

Anyone have an opinion on this unit for a newbie welder? Seems like an excellent price on a name brand kit, but I'm totally ignorant about such things.

Thanks,
Lee
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Coming right along! Your welds and fab skills improve as you go along.

I was looking at some of my first welds this weekend. All I can say is, thank God for flap wheels! :D
 
Coolerman said:
Coming right along! Your welds and fab skills improve as you go along.

I was looking at some of my first welds this weekend. All I can say is, thank God for flap wheels! :D
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Yeah, I know they are not real pretty but I'm getting better...

Thanks Coolerman!
 
KY Longhunter said:
then on to the Passenger Side Floor Pan....this is not welded in yet, just measuring twice.

Anybody got suggestions for this corner piece. It is shot!
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A leather sand bag and some body work hammers. If you have a Harbor Freight around, they sell both for cheap. These tools will let you massage some parts to fit just right.
Ahhh, your work reminds me of of my body resto. I learned to weld during mine as well. It looks awesome and it's amazing what a grinder can fix. I recommend good zinc heavy primer and roll-on bed liner on the underside when you get done. Also don't forget to drill some good sized drain holes before you paint to prevent the rust from returning. Also put a couple drain holes in the rocker floor (under the doors and hidden from the inside.

Good luck, keep at it!
 
Update

Having some trouble getting passenger floor pan to fit. I think the curve/turn in the floor pan is keeping me from butting up to the tranny hump.

It is hard to tell from last picture but the gap is about 1/8"
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Very nice.

What floor pans are those? I'm thinking I can get by with fab'ing up some for my floor repairs (I only need the driver side though).

That stuff is a lot harder to get to than the quarter panel stuff. It's SOOOO much easier when you can get easy access to what you're working on.

Dan
 
KY

Hi KY

Great thread.

I wouldn't cut the curve you are talking about.
Just tack it in a few places, that hit. Then move the original panel and the new panel closer to each other with a hammer and dolly. Tack as you go, and slowly tap the pieces together. The panel is much easier to tap into place once you have a few tacks in place. This a floor you are doing not a body panel you see, unless you really look. By bringing the new panel and the old panel together you compromise on the fit from both sides. Especially if you you are going to put some form of body liner in it, its' not that important that it is exactly like original contours.

Thanks jb
 
DanS HJ-45 said:
Very nice.

What floor pans are those? I'm thinking I can get by with fab'ing up some for my floor repairs (I only need the driver side though).

That stuff is a lot harder to get to than the quarter panel stuff. It's SOOOO much easier when you can get easy access to what you're working on.

Dan
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I bought the floor pans from Oscar at PACOL. Weren't cheap but very well made and nice quality metal. Check 'em out:

www.pacolonline.com

Alex

p.s. I have no affiliation with these guys...just happy customer:)
 
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