Flipping radius arms

[mudgudgeon]

A buddy had a 75 series troopie that was cut to an extended cab ute, fully triangulated 4 link rear end, 6" longer than 80 series radius arms in the front.
The flex in the front of that was incredible.

@SNLC you might remember it from outerlimits4x4? Black and red troppie

 

[SNLC]

A buddy had a 75 series troopie that was cut to an extended cab ute, fully triangulated 4 link rear end, 6" longer than 80 series radius arms in the front.
The flex in the front of that was incredible.

@SNLC you might remember it from outerlimits4x4? Black and red troppie

I remember a guy with a 75 that was red and black that iirc was sprung over on leaves. Big rubber and massive flex. Maybe it was linked, I don’t recall and seem to remember his build on pirate too. What was his forum name?

Cheers

 

[mudgudgeon]

Rockcrawler. His was definitely linked rear, and RA front, 80 series diffs

May have been sprung over, but probably before it was ute chopped

I remember a guy with a 75 that was red and black that iirc was sprung over on leaves. Big rubber and massive flex. Maybe it was linked, I don’t recall and seem to remember his build on pirate too. What was his forum name?

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

I kind of remember it, long time ago man, 15yrs?

The one I was thinking of is this,

Operation SOA 75

Was that what the crowd was making all the noise about friday? Yeah that'll probably be it haha

forum.ih8mud.com

Cheers

 

[mudgudgeon]

Nah, wrong side of the country.

 

[mudgudgeon]

@SNLC a couple of pics I saved years ago of an Aussie Hilux being built for winch truck racing (I think)

 

[bigdfzj80]

Im on 37's, slee 4" lift and 1"body lift. I did the radius arm flip. I dont know why people get so worked up over it. Its cheap, ride improves, stability improves. Swaybars don't fit, but after doing the flip I didn't need them. Caster is corrected, travel arc is improved, articulation is gained. I have always been surprised why more people don't do this. And of course you don't have the big rock magnets hanging below the axle, this alone was worth the mod.

 

[bigdfzj80]

Im on 37's, slee 4" lift and 1"body lift. I did the radius arm flip. I dont know why people get so worked up over it. Its cheap, ride improves, stability improves. Swaybars don't fit, but after doing the flip I didn't need them. Caster is corrected, travel arc is improved, articulation is gained. I have always been surprised why more people don't do this. And of course you don't have the big rock magnets hanging below the axle, this alone was worth the mod.

 

[bigdfzj80]

The photo was before the 37"s.

 

[Gerry McGerry]

I am thinking about doing it on my 80 Ute project. I heard about it 15+yrs ago now being done in Australia, it is an old school mod for them. Now there is kits, I am looking at this one,

Landcruiser 80/105/79 Series Flipped Arm Kit - Castor Correction

Upgrade your 80/105/79 Series Landcruiser with our DIY Flipped Arm Kit for castor correction, increased clearance, and a smoother drive. Easy weld-on installation.

www.kinselaskustoms.com.au

I'll be going with this kit soon enough. Kinsela makes quality stuff, highly recommend his work.

 

[JoeCova]

Im on 37's, slee 4" lift and 1"body lift. I did the radius arm flip. I dont know why people get so worked up over it. Its cheap, ride improves, stability improves. Swaybars don't fit, but after doing the flip I didn't need them. Caster is corrected, travel arc is improved, articulation is gained. I have always been surprised why more people don't do this. And of course you don't have the big rock magnets hanging below the axle, this alone was worth the mod.

If you are bored and want something different to do then sure but I think most who are going to waste time to cut and weld brackets are just going to 3-link.

 

[Squeegee]

If you are bored and want something different to do then sure but I think most who are going to waste time to cut and weld brackets are just going to 3-link.

I like the idea of being able to fix geometry and gain ground clearance with the radius arm flip. But I don’t think the cost of buying a kit is worth the performance gain. In my opinion part of the appeal of a radius arm flip is that you can make those brackets pretty cheap and easy at home.

The overall cost of a 3 link is way more. But in my opinion, so is the performance gains

 

[jkeithw]

I like the idea of being able to fix geometry and gain ground clearance with the radius arm flip. But I don’t think the cost of buying a kit is worth the performance gain. In my opinion part of the appeal of a radius arm flip is that you can make those brackets pretty cheap and easy at home.

The overall cost of a 3 link is way more. But in my opinion, so is the performance gains

I think "fix the geometry" part is about where the new mounts are being welded (caster correction), not a function of inverting the arms themselves unless I'm missing something. The axle centerline and RA pivot point aren't changing, so any fix (caster) comes from the fabrication work.

(just grabbed your post as it was the last one, I'm in lazy mode at the end of the day)

 

[Squeegee]

I think "fix the geometry" part is about where the new mounts are being welded (caster correction), not a function of inverting the arms themselves unless I'm missing something. The axle centerline and RA pivot point aren't changing, so any fix (caster) comes from the fabrication work.

(just grabbed your post as it was the last one, I'm in lazy mode at the end of the day)

You would think that mounting the arms on top of the axle would flatten the link. The antidive would get closer to 100% and the roll axis inclination would be more neural. I’ve never plotted it so it’s just a guess

 

[Broski]

The tie rod is protected with the control arms in the stock location
As soon as you do the flip they’re totally vulnerable.
It seems to me as soon as you do the flip you need to do high steer in the front so add $1500 more dollars.
In my case he would have to redo the Hydro system as well.
Personally, I like to tie rod, and Hydro tucked up behind the axle again just a personal preference.
Oh yeah, I’m already trussed

 

[jkeithw]

You would think that mounting the arms on top of the axle would flatten the link. The antidive would get closer to 100% and the roll axis inclination would be more neural. I’ve never plotted it so it’s just a guess

Well, in a multilink setup, I agree with you. But in this situation, there's no pivot occurring on the axle end - so the "link" is an imaginary line from the frame pivot to the axle center line (regardless of the shape or path of the RA.) That's why pinion angle is so touchy, right?

and like @Broski is saying; the tradeoff of increased ground clearance at the axle (where it probably matters less, right?) is potentially having the steering in harm's way - although caster correction won't have steering to RA contact issues in that orientation...

- don't get me wrong; if folks are into this, I'll make brackets for it

(Disclaimer - east coast time zone, so I'm on beer 3. possible errors in diction and articulation)

 

[SNLC]

The tie rod is protected with the control arms in the stock location
As soon as you do the flip they’re totally vulnerable.
It seems to me as soon as you do the flip you need to do high steer in the front so add $1500 more dollars.
In my case he would have to redo the Hydro system as well.
Personally, I like to tie rod, and Hydro tucked up behind the axle again just a personal preference.
Oh yeah, I’m already trussed

I like the tie rod in front of the axle in what is known as crossover steering. Better protection in my opinion but the stock panhard is a real problem doing this.



I personally don’t want to 3-link a 8” Toyota axle. Coilovers are friggin expensive and take a fair share of work to be good both on and off road. I have had a linked rock crawler it sucked on the streets and was a trailer queen.

Cheers

 

[Broski]

I like the tie rod in front of the axle in what is known as crossover steering. Better protection in my opinion but the stock panhard is a real problem doing this.



I personally don’t want to 3-link a 8” Toyota axle. Coilovers are friggin expensive and take a fair share of work to be good both on and off road. I have had a linked rock crawler it sucked on the streets and was a trailer queen.

Cheers

You’re starting from scratch with your diamond housing so that leaves a lot more options.
I’m familiar with crossover steering in my opinion the real gain in protection for the steering in the front is the high steer set up requiring the front range Keyed knuckles or the hellfire knuckles and associated parts.

IMHO you have to try really hard to bend the tire rod in the stock location.

In any case, I’m sure whatever you do it’s going to be bad ass just like the rest of the stuff you post up.

 

[JoeCova]

I like the idea of being able to fix geometry and gain ground clearance with the radius arm flip. But I don’t think the cost of buying a kit is worth the performance gain. In my opinion part of the appeal of a radius arm flip is that you can make those brackets pretty cheap and easy at home.

The overall cost of a 3 link is way more. But in my opinion, so is the performance gains

Ya cutting welding and flipping isnt terribly expensive. You can 3-link for about $900.

 

[Broski]

You can 3-link for about $900.

I don’t think so