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A buddy had a 75 series troopie that was cut to an extended cab ute, fully triangulated 4 link rear end, 6" longer than 80 series radius arms in the front.
The flex in the front of that was incredible.
@SNLC you might remember it from outerlimits4x4? Black and red troppie
I remember a guy with a 75 that was red and black that iirc was sprung over on leaves. Big rubber and massive flex. Maybe it was linked, I don’t recall and seem to remember his build on pirate too. What was his forum name?
Cheers
Im on 37's, slee 4" lift and 1"body lift. I did the radius arm flip. I dont know why people get so worked up over it. Its cheap, ride improves, stability improves. Swaybars don't fit, but after doing the flip I didn't need them. Caster is corrected, travel arc is improved, articulation is gained. I have always been surprised why more people don't do this. And of course you don't have the big rock magnets hanging below the axle, this alone was worth the mod.
I'll be going with this kit soon enough. Kinsela makes quality stuff, highly recommend his work.I am thinking about doing it on my 80 Ute project. I heard about it 15+yrs ago now being done in Australia, it is an old school mod for them. Now there is kits, I am looking at this one,
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80/105/79 Series Landcruiser Flipped Arm DIY kit
Our flipped arm kit is the best castor correction setup on the market. A massive increase in clearance, drives much smoother on road, increased travel and a bonus of having a braced front housing to protect it from bending. The kit is the same as our bolt in solution, but if you have a welder...www.kinselaskustoms.com.au
Im on 37's, slee 4" lift and 1"body lift. I did the radius arm flip. I dont know why people get so worked up over it. Its cheap, ride improves, stability improves. Swaybars don't fit, but after doing the flip I didn't need them. Caster is corrected, travel arc is improved, articulation is gained. I have always been surprised why more people don't do this. And of course you don't have the big rock magnets hanging below the axle, this alone was worth the mod.
I like the idea of being able to fix geometry and gain ground clearance with the radius arm flip. But I don’t think the cost of buying a kit is worth the performance gain. In my opinion part of the appeal of a radius arm flip is that you can make those brackets pretty cheap and easy at home.If you are bored and want something different to do then sure but I think most who are going to waste time to cut and weld brackets are just going to 3-link.
I think "fix the geometry" part is about where the new mounts are being welded (caster correction), not a function of inverting the arms themselves unless I'm missing something. The axle centerline and RA pivot point aren't changing, so any fix (caster) comes from the fabrication work.I like the idea of being able to fix geometry and gain ground clearance with the radius arm flip. But I don’t think the cost of buying a kit is worth the performance gain. In my opinion part of the appeal of a radius arm flip is that you can make those brackets pretty cheap and easy at home.
The overall cost of a 3 link is way more. But in my opinion, so is the performance gains
You would think that mounting the arms on top of the axle would flatten the link. The antidive would get closer to 100% and the roll axis inclination would be more neuralI think "fix the geometry" part is about where the new mounts are being welded (caster correction), not a function of inverting the arms themselves unless I'm missing something. The axle centerline and RA pivot point aren't changing, so any fix (caster) comes from the fabrication work.
(just grabbed your post as it was the last one, I'm in lazy mode at the end of the day)![]()
Well, in a multilink setup, I agree with you. But in this situation, there's no pivot occurring on the axle end - so the "link" is an imaginary line from the frame pivot to the axle center line (regardless of the shape or path of the RA.) That's why pinion angle is so touchy, right?You would think that mounting the arms on top of the axle would flatten the link. The antidive would get closer to 100% and the roll axis inclination would be more neural. I’ve never plotted it so it’s just a guess
The tie rod is protected with the control arms in the stock location
As soon as you do the flip they’re totally vulnerable.
It seems to me as soon as you do the flip you need to do high steer in the front so add $1500 more dollars.
In my case he would have to redo the Hydro system as well.
Personally, I like to tie rod, and Hydro tucked up behind the axle again just a personal preference.
Oh yeah, I’m already trussed![]()
You’re starting from scratch with your diamond housing so that leaves a lot more options.I like the tie rod in front of the axle in what is known as crossover steering. Better protection in my opinion but the stock panhard is a real problem doing this.
I personally don’t want to 3-link a 8” Toyota axle. Coilovers are friggin expensive and take a fair share of work to be good both on and off road. I have had a linked rock crawler it sucked on the streets and was a trailer queen.
Cheers
I like the idea of being able to fix geometry and gain ground clearance with the radius arm flip. But I don’t think the cost of buying a kit is worth the performance gain. In my opinion part of the appeal of a radius arm flip is that you can make those brackets pretty cheap and easy at home.
The overall cost of a 3 link is way more. But in my opinion, so is the performance gains
I don’t think soYou can 3-link for about $900.