Flexing the 3 link (4 Viewers)

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Double dOuble cardon driveshaft is pure diarehea, not unlike the taco bell mixed with IPA im currently consuming
 
Double dOuble cardon driveshaft is pure diarehea, not unlike the taco bell mixed with IPA im currently consuming

Hey, it was the only way I could keep the cougars from soiling the newly leathered seats. :flipoff2:

Chit works.

Granted it's like a semi clear coat finish glaze, the final step to polishing a turd, but bet it's the smoothest Pink Panties anyone's ever rode in....in a straight line.
 
Im just pokin at him cause hes probably the only one who will accomplish this in the (very)near future.

Im thinkin a plate upper link with a pretty decent bend to clear the existing upper link crossmember, but if you incorporated something like he does w rear coilovers, the possibilities are endless.

I really like his stuff, so id be inclined
to wait and see what he comes up
with for the back. Id just use his front 80 stuff but im all into the 9.5 axle.

I have his parts on my 4runner and
they are pure sex. We have a lot of the same ideas, his execution of them is much better. It would take me 10 hours with a freehand plasma, grinder and pressbrake just to mimic his passenger lowerlink/panhard bracket.
 
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Just to add to this thread. I have noticeable lift on takeoff @ 170% AD. I am in front wheel drive only currently. There is ZERO brake dive when panic stopping, not even a flinch.
 
Sorta. Only noticed on beer runs w fat ederly women drivin though
 
Does anyone else feel the subframe with integrated link mounts holds promise?

I've spent a lot of time under my rig lately putting the TC back together. A subframe for the front looks absolutely doable.

The rear not so much. The last existing OE frame fastener location is at the TC crossmember, so a subframe would require welds along the frame for the rear links. I think the ideal situation would be welded rear link brackets with integrated bolt holes for the belly pan.
 
Booger & others -
Just thinking out loud here... I assumed it just would never work since the uppers are so short, but I've been toying around with the idea of a double triangulated 4-link rear without relocating the gas tank. I know the rule of thumb is to have longer uppers, but I don't believe that's gospel.

If you made a truss on the top of the rear axle housing (you'd have to ditch the LSPV rod, but who cares about that anyway?) and ran links from the OE upper frame mounts to it... then created a crossmember near the xfer case (yes, the lowers are going to be longer) and triangulated the lowers from the OE axle mounts to it, you'd get this:

vh2yzIv.jpg


I see the pros as

1) It fits without relocating major components
2) Ditches the Panhard
3) Raises the roll center height better than you could get from messing with the Panhard in the 5-link OE setup
4) Significantly better roll steer characteristics
5) Doesn't rotate the pinion much more than the current setup

I know it could be tweaked a teeny bit for AS values and so on, but does this hold promise?
 
Heck yeah nukegoat!!!

What are the 'hardcore' guys breaking on the upperlink stuff? IOW, what needs to be beefed up for something like that to work?

I did note in another thread that a single cut along each framerail will remove the entire crossmember and coil bucket/panhard stamped piece as a whole and 'clean'. Very unlike the annoying disaster on the 4runner rears.
 
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Heck yeah nukegoat!!!

What are the 'hardcore' guys breaking on the upperlink stuff? IOW, what needs to be beefed up for something like that to work?

I did note in another thread that a single cut along each framerail will remove the entire crossmember and coil bucket/panhard stamped piece as a whole and 'clean'. Very unlike the annoying disaster on the 4runner rears.

Supposedly people are breaking their upper links but I'm having a hard time imagining how, unless they replace the bushings with something less compliant, transferring the stress to the mounts / welds on the links.

I'd think you'd want to leave the coil buckets, no? You'd have to torch/grind off the existing control arm mounts and then weld an angled rectangular tube or something on there... Unless you're suggesting hacking off the entire crossmember and replacing it with something fabbed on a bench?

I don't know enough about the 4runners to know what's a nightmare up there
 

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